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Posted by lowelanxd on 17 December 2011 - 08:45 AM
Posted by autom8r on 21 June 2013 - 01:23 PM
Last weekend I replaced my faulty fan assembly. The fan speed control module failed, leaving one of the fans operating at high speed all the time [an annoying tattletale, BTW]. A new module costs as much or more as the entire fan assembly, so I opted to replace the whole thing.
The service manual instructs you to disconnect the upper radiator hose. That would've qualified this job as a messy PITA. A message to thirdgenlxi was quickly returned with a set of abbreviated instructions, which made the job much cleaner and easier.
And so attached for your use is the 'simplified' fan assembly replacement procedure. The entire job took about 0:30 minutes. Scale of difficulty, 1 to 2, about the same as rotating your tires.
A hearty thanks to thirdgenlxi for his advice.
Posted by DD2000GT on 16 January 2017 - 10:47 PM
Reposting per Moderator for any that get a dash error message to shift to park when the shifter is in the park position:
I registered to this site specifically to post on this semi-common issue to help any like myself who research how to fix issues themselves. I can attest this issue can easily be fixed with just replacing a $5 microswitch and less than 1 hour of easy time. Thanks to the previous poster that posted the microswitch info, but I saw a few posts with the wrong parts being shown to fix this issue. You need a SPDT three lead switch with the posts on the left side. The CORRECT Omron switch part number is D2HW - BL201M - this version has three leads already in place for easy spicing. I got mine from Mouser Electronics for $5.02. If you want the version with the solder posts, the part number is D2HW - BL201H but you will probably need to remove a lot more stuff to get this resoldered. I went ahead and bought a few spares as well as I expect this to fail again at some point... Don't worry about getting one with a lever, as you will pull the lever off the old switch and put it on the new one.
The great part is you won't have to remove the shifter if you get the switch with the leads already attached. Start by setting the parking brake, then start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate), then turn the car back off. Remove the center console with the cup holders. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up. Then, remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit. Now, separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch, then re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring. After your sure everything is fine, put the console back together in reverse order you took it out. Then smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work!
I hope I helped someone from either paying the crazy dealership price or buy a completely new shifter and spend much more time and effort taking things apart to do this.
Posted by ugoleftillgorite on 26 January 2016 - 10:45 AM
The camera on our 2011 Edge SEL had been frequently flipping upside down or going black and displaying "Contact Dealership," which according to TSB11-06-04 warrants a replacement of the backup camera. The dealership told me that they always replace the trim piece that the camera is mounted to since it is nearly impossible to not break the tabs, resulting in a $700+ bill. I could not find a guide online for the replacement of this camera, so I decided to take a couple of pictures and document what I did to replace it for my first post on this forum. It isn't exactly straightforward, but if you are careful you can do it yourself with just a few hand tools.
7/16" open end wrench
#2 Phillips screwdriver
T20 Torx screwdriver
Thin common screwdriver for prying
Needle nose pliers for pinching plastic rivets
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To get to the camera, you must remove the plastic panel on the inside of the back hatch. This allows access to the nuts to remove the exterior trim piece the camera is mounted to. Once removed, you must separate the trim piece to get to the camera.
Remove 4 Phillips head screws from the underside of the interior hatch plastic panel.
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On the left and right side of that panel, carefully pry the panel away from the hatch to expose the plastic rivets circled in red (picture is of the removed panel). A thin blade screwdriver or a panel removal tool will help these release without breaking. Removing the small panel in the red rectangle will allow you to get more light on the situation. Once you release the circled ones, the rest pop free with a gentle tug. Set panel aside.
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Unclip the 2 plugs in the yellow rectangles. Remove the 6 nuts in the access holes indicated by the black circles. In the black rectangles (one offscreen to the right indicated by arrow), pinch the wings of the plastic rivets with needle nose pliers to allow them to slip through their holes. Exterior trim panel should now be loose. Close the hatch, remove the panel along with the wire harness. This will require you to remove the rubber plug along with it.
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Take the trim panel over to a work area. There will be 6 studs protruding from the back of the trim panel. The two to the far left and two to the far right must be removed to separate the painted piece from the unpainted piece. To remove these, take two of the nuts removed in the previous step and thread them on to a stud back to back. Using the open end wrench and socket, tighten them against each other. Once tight, you will be able to use the open end wrench to turn the lower nut counterclockwise to remove the stud. Once removed, use the socket and wrench to remove the nuts, then move on to the next stud.
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This is the delicate step that prompts dealers to replace the whole trim panel. On the underside of the trim panel are thin rectangular slots that you can fit a thin-bladed screwdriver in. Insert it as shown in the picture, and carefully pry up as you gently try to separate the clip from the slot. Do this for each clip along the bottom. There is one additional clip in the center with no access slot, you just have to get inventive and pry it whatever way you see fit.
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Remove the screw circled in red and remove the plastic retainer it was securing. The camera will now come free. Unplug and replace with new camera.
Reverse all of the above steps. Use the double nut trick to reinstall the studs. You will likely need another person to help you reinstall the interior hatch panel because you have to get all of the plastic rivets lined up to pop it into place.
Hope this helps someone else! If anything was not clear, please let me know. Thanks!
Posted by CinnamonEdge on 02 July 2015 - 10:19 PM
Here it is. Hope this helps people out. Wish I had a camera man but this gets the point across.
Posted by blitz118 on 08 February 2015 - 07:15 AM
Posted by the_natrix on 15 December 2012 - 06:37 PM
long time lurker here, owned a 07 ford edge awd since 2011.
I am a pretty stong audi mechanic, and I refuse to drive anything not AWD as my personal vehicles.
Anyways cut the crap and into the meat and potatoes of the issue.
There are 3 failure modes for leaking of the PTU.
First the Shaft seal will leak from the output shaft seals on the Passanger side of the vehicle. Ford pretty much has this covered as updated parts, and proceedures to replace the offending seals with newer design units and ensure a leak free setup. I'm not really going to go into it much since everyone and their brother has done so before.
Second, the compression seal between the PTU and Transmission can go. From what I do know this is a pretty rare event. The seal is held between the transmission and PTU pretty securely and no debris can really make their way there. If you EVER remove the PTU for whatever reason, replace that seal!
Last, and the one i want to focus some effort on is the VENT leak.
This is where the PTU will start vomiting up fluid from the PTU case vent.
I had this happening to me with reasonable frequency to cause concern. It normally only happens when I am driving over 60mph/100kph and leaves a nice immeadiate puke once parked or stopped but never leaves puddles in the driveway (mostly cause i slow down to well under 60mph long before I get home)
It causes the stinky smell when the gear oil drips onto the exhaust at stoplights.
Anyone looking at their PTU and seeing alot of black stains and fluid on it can clearly distinguish a VENT VOMIT from the fact there appears to be no leaks around the Pass Side Shaft seal. It make confuse you to think it is a compression seal, but it is not as the stains proceed up higher on the PTU. If you have a small mirror and flashlight you can confirm it by looking above and down onto the PTU.
Ford may say that the PTU is overfilled and causing this, however that is only true if it actually is overfilled. By design the transmission cannot leak ATF directly into the PTU so this is implausible, and I know most owners are not running around overfilling their PTU's just because..... sooo....
I bought a shot PTU on eBAY to disassemble and see WTF is going on.
I will post pictures but that will wait for tomorrow.
The problem is the vent case is setup with its own little oil/air separator. However the problem is this is defeated because of the gear oil selection ford has chosen. No big fault in them other than saying the PTU is filled for life. IMHO the PTU should be flushed after the first 15K with new fluid, and this means installing a drain plug in the PTU (easy and something I plan to do).
Anyways the gear oil gets a moly additive which is great! but the gear oil also seems to be of a quality not high enough to stand usage in the PTU for the real life of the vehicle (7-10 years in my opinion). What is worse, is if you actually do develop a low gear oil event due to a seal leak, and the PTU takes a beating from it, well now you have even more crap that the oil has to deal with and will definately plug up the case vent system.
What is going on is there is a large ring gear to finally drive the center shaft, this gear spins right beside the VENT. Now before all you jump on board and say this is a design problem it is not. There is nothing wrong with this and once i post pics you will understand. The problem is when the vent system does fail this ring gear will act as a pump and force lube up into the vent system for it to vomit forth all over the ptu and exhaust.
What is causing the vent system to fail then? debris. normal break in debris, metal filings naturally caused during the normal wear in process, along with the moly additive acting like glue, and lastly the lower quality gear oil used.
This turns the gear oil into a tar/grease that plugs up the designed in oil/gas separator in the vent for the PTU. With that oil gas separator gone and the ring gear now starting to pump oil right next to the vent is the reason it is being forced out the vent.
The solution is if you know your PTU is good 2 fold. Clear/clean the vent system, and replace with high quality gear oil.
1. you could just do successive fluid changes until all that grease is disolved away. Time consuming and maybe annoying too. but it would eventually work.
2. you could also install a drainplug and with the car in the air, pop the vent cap off and spray brake clean in there hoping it works. While your at it you will also be spraying any debris back into those lovely taper bearings:D so I do not recommend this.
3. You could do what I recommend. and disassemble the PTU. This is tedious but easy. Once it is off the car, it is mandatory that you knock off the deflector, but you do not need to remove the seals (although why you wouldnt replace them at this points baffles me).
I beleive it may even be possible to disassemble the PTU on the car, but you would still need to replace the Pass side shaft seal/deflectors.
There are a few 10mm bolts holding the casing half on, spin those off after you shatter off the deflector and the rest is simple physics of tapping and wiggling the case cover off it's alignment dowels.
Once you see the PTU you can remove the large ring gear and or all the gears and rinse it down. I normally use paint thinner or parts cleaner, but do not use water based stuff, you want to avoid rust. make sure you do not lose track of the bearings positions or any shims, if you do your in for a big annoying time. Clean all the gunk out and inspect the output gears to the center shaft. My eBay unit suffered galling on the hypoid gears due to lack of lubricant, no big surprize considering where I bought it, but I knew it was for disection purposes.
If yours has been quiet but has minor gear wear, we might as well just keep going. You could get a new unit if you have warrenty or feel like spending the money, but in the mean time your original unit was working despite the damage, why stop now?
anyways assembly is reverse of removal, do not forget to seal up the case half with Ultra Grey sealant or ford sealant. Same they use on all their drivetrain stuff. I prefer the ultra grey and have been using it on Audi's for years with no issues.
I hope to improve this post with photos from the donor/experimental unit and then again update them with photos of my own PTU job on my Edge over the christmas holidays.
I will also provide people with the correct location for a 1/2 NPT drainplug on the PTU so they can make their own mods and improvements.
NOTHING and I repeat NOTHING should ever be "Filled for life" total bullshit.
Ford, Audi, Rolls Royce, does not matter. everything needs a fluid change interval.
Posted by zrt8355 on 02 May 2017 - 11:19 PM
Hi everyone. After following the guys over at 2GFusions on how to install Sync 3 in a 2013-2016 Fusion, I decided that would be the first modification to my Edge once I got it this weekend. I knew I'd get the car so I already had the radio purchased and ready to go - and good thing I did because the Sync 2/MFT system actually died before I even got the car. I believe the APIM was shot.
Anyways, I scored a basically new/barely used Sync 3 nav unit off eBay for a great price ($480). It still had the protective cover that says "to be removed by customer" on the display. As of right now, it works flawlessly and I see no issues whatsoever.
In case anyone is interested, here is what is needed to complete this mod:
Sync 3 unit - Nav or Non-nav
Note: unlike Sync 2, navigation can NOT be activated on non-nav models. I've found that yes, you technically can enable the buttons/nav screen (or at least you can disable it on nav-equipped units)...but the non-nav units have 8GB of internal storage whereas the nav units have 32GB to hold the maps (and 64GB in Europe), so they do not and cannot actually hold any map files, and it is therefore useless to attempt. So if you want nav, you HAVE to buy a nav-equipped model.
I paid: $480, but your price will vary on this.
Sync 3 dual USB port - this is needed because it has Apple CarPlay authentication chips. When using the current/old USB and SD card hub, Sync 3 will give you an error message every time you start the car. But I do believe it still works for Android Auto and other USB functions despite the error message.
HC3Z-19A387-B for the Ford version (blue lighting around USB ports)
GJ7Z-19A387-B for the Lincoln version (white lighting around USB ports)
(I went with white for preference, it looks great in the console and does not look out of place)
Cost - $48.52 at http://parts.autonat...tebearlake.com/
USB port faceplate:
The new USB port is smaller than the existing hub and this allows it to fit in place.
Cost: $9.56 at http://parts.autonat...tebearlake.com/
Sync 2 to Sync 3 Wiring Adapter for USB hub
Ford does make their own pigtail for this new hub for $32 if you wire it yourself, though I found the adapter to be worth the extra $18.
Ford part number CU2Z-14S411-AA (WPT-1239)
GPSM antenna w/Fakra connector - Sync 3 nav uses this independent antenna, and does not use the existing one. However, you will want to leave yours intact or the compass reading on your dashboard will not work. I mounted mine on a metal bracket inside the dashboard (directly behind the push start button) to the left of the radio opening.
All in all I paid around $610, but I did sell an old APIM from my 2014 Fusion to Infotainment.com for $100 so I think of it as a net cost of $510. Pretty great deal compared to their own kits for $2100+. And I needed a new APIM for my Edge anyways since it died, so that helped justify the decision lol.
The existing radio is easy to remove - there is a video on YouTube if needed, but I don't want to write all of the steps here.
Once you get it installed, it will need to be programmed to your vehicle to make sure all functions operate correctly (climate, heated/cooled seats, ambient lighting, etc.) I managed to tinker enough with mine using FORScan software and an OBDLink MX adapter, but it did take about an hour of trial and error and I think I got lucky because I really had no idea what I was doing. When I first installed it, the climate screen was unresponsive, the heated seats buttons were gone, there was a Vehicle Charge screen (must have came from a Fusion Energi), and I had no ambient lighting options. But after a while of messing with the as-built data, I finally got exactly all the features my Edge has, and got rid of the charge screen.
There are a couple of guys out there that may be willing to program it for a fee though - DanMc85 at 2GFusions.net or maybe Jason at FordPiMods.com. Unfortunately, I can't be of much help because everyone's vehicle is different - but if anyone wants my modified As-Built APIM file, I'll be glad to share, and you should be able to flash your APIM with it and make progress. In fact, if you have a similarly equipped Edge (nav, ambient lighting, heated seats), you may not need to do anything else.
That's all I have for now - but would be glad to answer any questions that come to mind. Here's some pics though.
Posted by HappyHourSport on 18 December 2015 - 06:27 AM
SO here is the finished install,
The only thing you can see, if you look hard.
Pro Tip, that little seat tray is held on by 3 star screws on the front, and 4 on the rear. Kinda a pain.
Finished Sub - You can see the risers I made to keep the floor about an inch above the sub. Have plenty of clearance for extension.
And this is what you get when you try to go on your first trip to listen to it. Between this and forgetting to tighten the amp bolts I told myself, "You can't forget that" I only had to take 2 panels off again!
SO all in all, it sounds amazing and I am super happy with it. I may try and find some Focal's and move the JL's to the rear (still stock there), because I love my Focals in the F150
Hope this helps someone with a 15!!!
Posted by enigma-2 on 08 June 2017 - 05:47 PM
Posted by WWWPerfA_ZN0W on 07 March 2017 - 03:17 AM
Sure there is, in the airbags.
Posted by jmr061 on 05 October 2016 - 04:37 PM
UPDATED – 4/27/17
TO MY KNOWLEDGE FORD HAS RELEASED VERSION 2.2 TO ALL FORD VEHICLES. PLEASE CHECK THE FORD OWNER SITE FOR YOUR UPDATE (http://owner.ford.com/) , LET IT UPDATE VIA WIFI OR VISIT YOUR DEALER.
I wanted to get something written up for those 16+ SYNC3 owners to have some quick reference to. In regards to CarPlay and Android Auto…YOU MUST HAVE YOUR PHONE CONNECTED VIA USB.
SYNC 3 Version Releases
Version 1.0 - Initial Release Version - Does not contain Android Auto/CarPlay
Version 1.1 – Early update for Version 1.0 to correct minor bug issues
Version 2.0 - Only available on late build models of the 2016s (roughly July 2016). Version 2.0 is the first build to contain Android Auto and CarPlay. This is also standard on early build 2017 models. Please note if you have a 2016 model you will need a new CarPlay compliant USB hub to utilize CarPlay. No way around it.
Version 2.2 build 16280 – This was initially released as an update for some 2016 Lincoln models in Dec. 2016. In Feb. 2017 I noticed that most Fords/Lincolns were being shipped from the factory with 2.2 in them. Version 2.2 does contain CarPlay/Android Auto. This has been referred to as hacked, leaked, etc. This is a legitimate release. It just wasn’t released for all models.
Version 2.2 build 17011 – This is the widely released update for SYNC3 (as of late April 2017). This is what will be available for your vehicle via the owner site/WIFI update/Dealer update if your vehicle qualifies for it. THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD BE INSTALLING.
You are able to check your version by going into the General icon and then ABOUT menu item. The version is listed at the top and not to be confused with gracenote or navigation version. If installing by USB it seems SYNC3 is very picky with what type of USB flash drive is used. It is hit or miss as to if the system will like your USB flash drive. My suggestion is if the installation fails do a master reset and use a different USB flash drive. REMEMBER FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE OWNER SITE FOR USB INSTALLATION.
If further information pertaining to this topic is received I will attempt to update this original thread. I would like to ask that opinions about Apple versus Android be kept out of this and the keep the topic on task.
LIST OF CONFIRMED CARPLAY COMPLIANT USB HUBS THAT FIT 2016 EDGE:
GJ7Z-19A387-B (WHITE BACKLIGHTING) via JMR061
HC3Z-19A387-B (BLUE BACKLIGHTING) via KOMANDREW.
Should you have V2.2 build 16280 installed and you feel it necessary to upgrade to V2.2 build 17011 get your hands on either the nav or non nav build 17011 update. Change the AUTOINSTALL File so it looks like the following. You can open it and modify it in NOTEPAD.
; Gen 3 - Assembly Update
Item1 = HN1T-14G381-SA
Open1 = SyncMyRide\HN1T-14G381-SA.tar.gz
Options = AutoInstall
Posted by drjoe on 18 April 2016 - 02:37 PM
Posted by WingNut on 04 October 2015 - 07:42 PM
Below is the pics and write-up I've done for changing oil on the '15 Edge Sport 2.7L. There are some bolded areas that I'd like input to make the job easier.
**THIS WRITEUP IS FOR EDUCATION PURPOSES ONLY. IF YOU DO AN OIL CHANGE, YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Materials You Need:
**Before starting, make sure your vehicle has sat ~15 minutes after running so all oil has drained from the motor. Not doing so may cause you to overfill the motor.**
Removing the Oil Filter:
The filter is located within the cartridge that you can access from under the hood. The pic below shows where the cartridge is located (LOOK FOR RED ARROW IN PICTURE):
Using the 27mm socket, ratchet, and extension loosen the cartridge.
But do not take the cartridge out yet. Let it sit up a little to let old oil drain off cartridge back down so it doesn't drip everywhere.
I left mine sit like that until after I drained the oil from the pan but may replace the cartridge completely prior to draining for less mess. You'll see in a few steps. Thoughts?
After removing the cartridge, you can see there is some oil left in the seat where the cartridge sits on the motor. Looks like less than 1/4 cup. I ended up soaking it up with some towels.
This is what the cartridge will look like when you take it out. Pull the carboard cartridge off. The middle plastic rod/arm stays on so just grab the cartridge and pull. It will pop off easy.
Here is what comes in the new Oil Filter box.
Put on new cartridge and replace O-Rings. You can see where the pink rings are in this pic so you know which ones to swap out. The small one can be a pain so you may need something small/dull to help jimmy it on.
Put the oil filter assembly back on and tighten according to spec (24lbs/ft torque).
Draining the Oil Pan:
I usually take the fill cap off the top of the motor to help with draining. Due to my issue with gushing oil, I may leave this on. Any thoughts?
Crawl under the Edge and you will see the yellow drain plug. This can be turned by hand. If too tough by hand, you can put a 3/8" ratchet on it. BE CAREFUL.....the oil comes out FAST.
Here you can see the mess I made after the oil gushed out fast.
After the oil has drained, re-attach the drain plug.
Re-filling The Motor:
Put the new oil in according to what the manual says. When complete, put the cap back on and start the Edge. I always let it run for a minute. Then turn off and leave it parked on a level surface. After 10 minutes check oil level using dipstick.
Posted by built2prfctn on 03 June 2015 - 05:38 PM
Hey guys hated those ugly DRL's so i replaced them. (Very Simple)
Here's the link to the bulbs I got
Posted by macbwt on 11 February 2018 - 03:53 PM
I was able to crawl under the Ford Edge ST prototype and get some video of the under carriage. Exhaust, drive line and a bit of the PTU etc.
Posted by Beezz on 19 August 2017 - 07:26 PM
Here is some pictures and details of my install of a 'raptor' grille on my 2015 Edge Sport. Click this link to go to my build log:
Jack up the car, remove the battery, headlight housings, and front wheels. Then start removing all the fasteners on the bottom of the bumper. Remove the fender liner fasteners. Pull the fender liners, disconnect the electrical connections on the driver side of the bumper. 5 connectors if you have the engine block heater, 4 if you don't. Remove the push pins on the intake cover. Detach the bumper by removing the 3 bolts on each side of the bumper where it meets the chassis. Remove the bolts holding the grille to the upper radiator/hood supports. Then carefully move the bumper. If you have the front view camera, you have to disconnect the washer and electrical connector before the bumper, grille, and chassis can be separated. Once you've got the bumper off the car, have fun with the clips that hold the grille onto the bumper. One clip is near a mounting tab for the wiring harness, be careful otherwise you may snap the grille at that point. There are 2 brackets screwed onto the grille that need to be transferred to the new grille
The new grille snaps right into place, you can use the handle end of pliers to push on either side of the mounting tabs until you hear them click in. You can either remove the front camera and washer completely, or re mount them. I removed the washer, and remounted the camera between the O and the R. The view is obstructed, but still usable. The harness needs to be moved so it is less visible through the grille. It needs to slot in between the grille and bumper bar. You can then wire the lights on the grille if you wish. I ran mine off an ignition switched control panel I have. See this link:
Got the grille from ebay, seller: autoparts-selection
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Posted by enigma-2 on 16 July 2017 - 08:44 PM
Posted by enigma-2 on 10 June 2017 - 05:53 PM
Posted by macbwt on 26 May 2017 - 06:45 PM
I would suggest a used Mercedes or BMW. I hear they are pretty much trouble free.