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The official Ford authorized Ford Edge Registry is now live. More here!
Posted by lowelanxd on 17 December 2011 - 08:45 AM
Posted by CinnamonEdge on 02 July 2015 - 10:19 PM
Here it is. Hope this helps people out. Wish I had a camera man but this gets the point across.
Posted by blitz118 on 08 February 2015 - 07:15 AM
Posted by autom8r on 21 June 2013 - 01:23 PM
Last weekend I replaced my faulty fan assembly. The fan speed control module failed, leaving one of the fans operating at high speed all the time [an annoying tattletale, BTW]. A new module costs as much or more as the entire fan assembly, so I opted to replace the whole thing.
The service manual instructs you to disconnect the upper radiator hose. That would've qualified this job as a messy PITA. A message to thirdgenlxi was quickly returned with a set of abbreviated instructions, which made the job much cleaner and easier.
And so attached for your use is the 'simplified' fan assembly replacement procedure. The entire job took about 0:30 minutes. Scale of difficulty, 1 to 2, about the same as rotating your tires.
A hearty thanks to thirdgenlxi for his advice.
Posted by the_natrix on 15 December 2012 - 06:37 PM
long time lurker here, owned a 07 ford edge awd since 2011.
I am a pretty stong audi mechanic, and I refuse to drive anything not AWD as my personal vehicles.
Anyways cut the crap and into the meat and potatoes of the issue.
There are 3 failure modes for leaking of the PTU.
First the Shaft seal will leak from the output shaft seals on the Passanger side of the vehicle. Ford pretty much has this covered as updated parts, and proceedures to replace the offending seals with newer design units and ensure a leak free setup. I'm not really going to go into it much since everyone and their brother has done so before.
Second, the compression seal between the PTU and Transmission can go. From what I do know this is a pretty rare event. The seal is held between the transmission and PTU pretty securely and no debris can really make their way there. If you EVER remove the PTU for whatever reason, replace that seal!
Last, and the one i want to focus some effort on is the VENT leak.
This is where the PTU will start vomiting up fluid from the PTU case vent.
I had this happening to me with reasonable frequency to cause concern. It normally only happens when I am driving over 60mph/100kph and leaves a nice immeadiate puke once parked or stopped but never leaves puddles in the driveway (mostly cause i slow down to well under 60mph long before I get home)
It causes the stinky smell when the gear oil drips onto the exhaust at stoplights.
Anyone looking at their PTU and seeing alot of black stains and fluid on it can clearly distinguish a VENT VOMIT from the fact there appears to be no leaks around the Pass Side Shaft seal. It make confuse you to think it is a compression seal, but it is not as the stains proceed up higher on the PTU. If you have a small mirror and flashlight you can confirm it by looking above and down onto the PTU.
Ford may say that the PTU is overfilled and causing this, however that is only true if it actually is overfilled. By design the transmission cannot leak ATF directly into the PTU so this is implausible, and I know most owners are not running around overfilling their PTU's just because..... sooo....
I bought a shot PTU on eBAY to disassemble and see WTF is going on.
I will post pictures but that will wait for tomorrow.
The problem is the vent case is setup with its own little oil/air separator. However the problem is this is defeated because of the gear oil selection ford has chosen. No big fault in them other than saying the PTU is filled for life. IMHO the PTU should be flushed after the first 15K with new fluid, and this means installing a drain plug in the PTU (easy and something I plan to do).
Anyways the gear oil gets a moly additive which is great! but the gear oil also seems to be of a quality not high enough to stand usage in the PTU for the real life of the vehicle (7-10 years in my opinion). What is worse, is if you actually do develop a low gear oil event due to a seal leak, and the PTU takes a beating from it, well now you have even more crap that the oil has to deal with and will definately plug up the case vent system.
What is going on is there is a large ring gear to finally drive the center shaft, this gear spins right beside the VENT. Now before all you jump on board and say this is a design problem it is not. There is nothing wrong with this and once i post pics you will understand. The problem is when the vent system does fail this ring gear will act as a pump and force lube up into the vent system for it to vomit forth all over the ptu and exhaust.
What is causing the vent system to fail then? debris. normal break in debris, metal filings naturally caused during the normal wear in process, along with the moly additive acting like glue, and lastly the lower quality gear oil used.
This turns the gear oil into a tar/grease that plugs up the designed in oil/gas separator in the vent for the PTU. With that oil gas separator gone and the ring gear now starting to pump oil right next to the vent is the reason it is being forced out the vent.
The solution is if you know your PTU is good 2 fold. Clear/clean the vent system, and replace with high quality gear oil.
1. you could just do successive fluid changes until all that grease is disolved away. Time consuming and maybe annoying too. but it would eventually work.
2. you could also install a drainplug and with the car in the air, pop the vent cap off and spray brake clean in there hoping it works. While your at it you will also be spraying any debris back into those lovely taper bearings:D so I do not recommend this.
3. You could do what I recommend. and disassemble the PTU. This is tedious but easy. Once it is off the car, it is mandatory that you knock off the deflector, but you do not need to remove the seals (although why you wouldnt replace them at this points baffles me).
I beleive it may even be possible to disassemble the PTU on the car, but you would still need to replace the Pass side shaft seal/deflectors.
There are a few 10mm bolts holding the casing half on, spin those off after you shatter off the deflector and the rest is simple physics of tapping and wiggling the case cover off it's alignment dowels.
Once you see the PTU you can remove the large ring gear and or all the gears and rinse it down. I normally use paint thinner or parts cleaner, but do not use water based stuff, you want to avoid rust. make sure you do not lose track of the bearings positions or any shims, if you do your in for a big annoying time. Clean all the gunk out and inspect the output gears to the center shaft. My eBay unit suffered galling on the hypoid gears due to lack of lubricant, no big surprize considering where I bought it, but I knew it was for disection purposes.
If yours has been quiet but has minor gear wear, we might as well just keep going. You could get a new unit if you have warrenty or feel like spending the money, but in the mean time your original unit was working despite the damage, why stop now?
anyways assembly is reverse of removal, do not forget to seal up the case half with Ultra Grey sealant or ford sealant. Same they use on all their drivetrain stuff. I prefer the ultra grey and have been using it on Audi's for years with no issues.
I hope to improve this post with photos from the donor/experimental unit and then again update them with photos of my own PTU job on my Edge over the christmas holidays.
I will also provide people with the correct location for a 1/2 NPT drainplug on the PTU so they can make their own mods and improvements.
NOTHING and I repeat NOTHING should ever be "Filled for life" total bullshit.
Ford, Audi, Rolls Royce, does not matter. everything needs a fluid change interval.
Posted by WWWPerfA_ZN0W on 07 March 2017 - 03:17 AM
Sure there is, in the airbags.
Posted by DD2000GT on 16 January 2017 - 10:47 PM
Reposting per Moderator for any that get a dash error message to shift to park when the shifter is in the park position:
I registered to this site specifically to post on this semi-common issue to help any like myself who research how to fix issues themselves. I can attest this issue can easily be fixed with just replacing a $5 microswitch and less than 1 hour of easy time. Thanks to the previous poster that posted the microswitch info, but I saw a few posts with the wrong parts being shown to fix this issue. You need a SPDT three lead switch with the posts on the left side. The CORRECT Omron switch part number is D2HW - BL201M - this version has three leads already in place for easy spicing. I got mine from Mouser Electronics for $5.02. If you want the version with the solder posts, the part number is D2HW - BL201H but you will probably need to remove a lot more stuff to get this resoldered. I went ahead and bought a few spares as well as I expect this to fail again at some point... Don't worry about getting one with a lever, as you will pull the lever off the old switch and put it on the new one.
The great part is you won't have to remove the shifter if you get the switch with the leads already attached. Start by setting the parking brake, then start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate), then turn the car back off. Remove the center console with the cup holders. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up. Then, remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit. Now, separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch, then re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring. After your sure everything is fine, put the console back together in reverse order you took it out. Then smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work!
I hope I helped someone from either paying the crazy dealership price or buy a completely new shifter and spend much more time and effort taking things apart to do this.
Posted by jmr061 on 05 October 2016 - 04:37 PM
Posted by drjoe on 18 April 2016 - 02:37 PM
Posted by HappyHourSport on 18 December 2015 - 06:27 AM
SO here is the finished install,
The only thing you can see, if you look hard.
Pro Tip, that little seat tray is held on by 3 star screws on the front, and 4 on the rear. Kinda a pain.
Finished Sub - You can see the risers I made to keep the floor about an inch above the sub. Have plenty of clearance for extension.
And this is what you get when you try to go on your first trip to listen to it. Between this and forgetting to tighten the amp bolts I told myself, "You can't forget that" I only had to take 2 panels off again!
SO all in all, it sounds amazing and I am super happy with it. I may try and find some Focal's and move the JL's to the rear (still stock there), because I love my Focals in the F150
Hope this helps someone with a 15!!!
Posted by WingNut on 04 October 2015 - 07:42 PM
Below is the pics and write-up I've done for changing oil on the '15 Edge Sport 2.7L. There are some bolded areas that I'd like input to make the job easier.
**THIS WRITEUP IS FOR EDUCATION PURPOSES ONLY. IF YOU DO AN OIL CHANGE, YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Materials You Need:
**Before starting, make sure your vehicle has sat ~15 minutes after running so all oil has drained from the motor. Not doing so may cause you to overfill the motor.**
Removing the Oil Filter:
The filter is located within the cartridge that you can access from under the hood. The pic below shows where the cartridge is located (LOOK FOR RED ARROW IN PICTURE):
Using the 27mm socket, ratchet, and extension loosen the cartridge.
But do not take the cartridge out yet. Let it sit up a little to let old oil drain off cartridge back down so it doesn't drip everywhere.
I left mine sit like that until after I drained the oil from the pan but may replace the cartridge completely prior to draining for less mess. You'll see in a few steps. Thoughts?
After removing the cartridge, you can see there is some oil left in the seat where the cartridge sits on the motor. Looks like less than 1/4 cup. I ended up soaking it up with some towels.
This is what the cartridge will look like when you take it out. Pull the carboard cartridge off. The middle plastic rod/arm stays on so just grab the cartridge and pull. It will pop off easy.
Here is what comes in the new Oil Filter box.
Put on new cartridge and replace O-Rings. You can see where the pink rings are in this pic so you know which ones to swap out. The small one can be a pain so you may need something small/dull to help jimmy it on.
Put the oil filter assembly back on and tighten according to spec (24lbs/ft torque).
Draining the Oil Pan:
I usually take the fill cap off the top of the motor to help with draining. Due to my issue with gushing oil, I may leave this on. Any thoughts?
Crawl under the Edge and you will see the yellow drain plug. This can be turned by hand. If too tough by hand, you can put a 3/8" ratchet on it. BE CAREFUL.....the oil comes out FAST.
Here you can see the mess I made after the oil gushed out fast.
After the oil has drained, re-attach the drain plug.
Re-filling The Motor:
Put the new oil in according to what the manual says. When complete, put the cap back on and start the Edge. I always let it run for a minute. Then turn off and leave it parked on a level surface. After 10 minutes check oil level using dipstick.
Posted by built2prfctn on 03 June 2015 - 05:38 PM
Hey guys hated those ugly DRL's so i replaced them. (Very Simple)
Here's the link to the bulbs I got
Posted by candurin on 02 October 2012 - 10:40 AM
Posted by Brad Luczak on 05 December 2015 - 09:31 PM
2015 Ford Edge Sport AWD
20" Polished Aluminum wheels
401a Technology Package
Production date: September 15th 2015
My Edge sport has treated me very well. I got every option except the adaptive cruise and Vista Roof (I'm so over the glass roofs) It has around 2000 miles on it now. I ran '93 octane the first 1000 miles and switched to regular '87 for the last 1000. Getting almost the exact same gas mileage and without a track to time it I don't really see a difference in performance at all either. I don't have any of the issues reported on the forums. Driver and passenger seats fully cool backs and bottoms, none of the trim is peeling back, no leaks, ect... To be honest i don't really have a issue with anything. I absolutely love this vehicle. It even plays nice in the snow! The only thing i would have loved to have as an option would be the heated steering wheel. I finally got the driver/pass windows tinted and did my final detail before the winter. Some pics
Posted by scguru92 on 11 April 2014 - 02:48 PM
I looked around for quite a while for researching my options for roof rack needs on my 2011 Edge with vista roof. Hopefully this post will help out others that wish to do the same. Obviously there are the clamp on racks that attach to the door frames, those are always an option. There are the aftermarket installed rails that get riveted onto the roof. However I like the look of the Edge with the factory roof rails and pursued that route. Here are my findings and results:
1. The Ford factory roof rails WILL fit and is a very simple job to perform. Get the rails from your local dealer and follow the instructions, its a half hour job. No drilling required, you must use the provided self tapping screws to add 2 additional holes to what is already there from the factory, but drilling is not required. I believe these holes are already there at production and simply siliconed shut and painted over at assembly? It took very little pressure with a 1/4" ratchet to install the needed screws.
2. The Ford factory crossbars WILL NOT fit (unless you don't want to open your vista roof) So for the crossbars, I went with Thule Aeroblade edge 7503 crossbars. Besides the fact that I simply like how the aeroblades look the best, I also went with these because they have Thule's "T-track" mounting system. This system permits the accessories to be mounted entirely on top of the aeroblades as opposed to being clamped on and having hardware/knobs underneath the crossbar for the accessories. The 7503 crossbars permit full use of the vista roof with approx. 3/4" clearance at its closest point with the roof open. Just enough room to not worry about clearance issues yet not sit too high on the vehicle as to look awkward in my opinion.
3. From there you may select any Thule accessories that utilize the T track system or have an adapter kit to do so. Most accessories do have this ability. I selected a Hull-a-port pro folding kayak cradle and will be adding a snowboard carrier for next winter. I had intended on placing bicycles up there originally, but found the loading height to be a bit too high and awkward and foresaw an unfortunate expensive slip in the future. So I went with a hitch mount bike carrier instead.
Attached are pics along the way.
PS: Please patronize your local bike/ski shop, etc for the Thule purchases. Mine got me better prices than I could online and was very helpful along the process when I needed to experiment and return some pieces.
Posted by wlepse on 04 May 2016 - 05:26 PM
Wow these guys rule. Took me longer to get the screen caps of the process than to actually do it. Have the grid lines and colored blocks back overlaying the rear cam image. So nice to have this back, but even nicer that they went out of their way to do this. I highly recommend FORScan. Thanks again to omar302 for pointing me in the right direction. Attached are screen caps of the process, couldn't be easier.
Posted by threeputtpar on 06 March 2016 - 11:29 AM
Decided yesterday to install a drain plug and make future fluid changes that much easier since I'll need to be flushing this thing for a while until it cleans up. Here's the list of tools and parts I needed/used:
3/8"-18 NPT hex head pipe plug from Grainger ($3)
NPT tap and die set with 3/8"-18 from Harbor Freight ($12 with coupon)
5/16" drill bit for pilot hole and 9/16" bit for final hole
16mm socket with 3" extension and long handle ratchet
5/16" hex head bit and 6" extension
Center punch and hammer
New fluid and fluid pump
Here's the start of the pilot hole:
Edit: I changed the 8mm hex bit to 5/16" because I stripped out the plug while trying to remove it the first time. Had to hammer in a Torx socket to get the darn thing out, then replaced with the same magnetic plug.
Posted by ugoleftillgorite on 26 January 2016 - 10:45 AM
The camera on our 2011 Edge SEL had been frequently flipping upside down or going black and displaying "Contact Dealership," which according to TSB11-06-04 warrants a replacement of the backup camera. The dealership told me that they always replace the trim piece that the camera is mounted to since it is nearly impossible to not break the tabs, resulting in a $700+ bill. I could not find a guide online for the replacement of this camera, so I decided to take a couple of pictures and document what I did to replace it for my first post on this forum. It isn't exactly straightforward, but if you are careful you can do it yourself with just a few hand tools.
7/16" open end wrench
#2 Phillips screwdriver
T20 Torx screwdriver
Thin common screwdriver for prying
Needle nose pliers for pinching plastic rivets
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To get to the camera, you must remove the plastic panel on the inside of the back hatch. This allows access to the nuts to remove the exterior trim piece the camera is mounted to. Once removed, you must separate the trim piece to get to the camera.
Remove 4 Phillips head screws from the underside of the interior hatch plastic panel.
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On the left and right side of that panel, carefully pry the panel away from the hatch to expose the plastic rivets circled in red (picture is of the removed panel). A thin blade screwdriver or a panel removal tool will help these release without breaking. Removing the small panel in the red rectangle will allow you to get more light on the situation. Once you release the circled ones, the rest pop free with a gentle tug. Set panel aside.
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Unclip the 2 plugs in the yellow rectangles. Remove the 6 nuts in the access holes indicated by the black circles. In the black rectangles (one offscreen to the right indicated by arrow), pinch the wings of the plastic rivets with needle nose pliers to allow them to slip through their holes. Exterior trim panel should now be loose. Close the hatch, remove the panel along with the wire harness. This will require you to remove the rubber plug along with it.
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Take the trim panel over to a work area. There will be 6 studs protruding from the back of the trim panel. The two to the far left and two to the far right must be removed to separate the painted piece from the unpainted piece. To remove these, take two of the nuts removed in the previous step and thread them on to a stud back to back. Using the open end wrench and socket, tighten them against each other. Once tight, you will be able to use the open end wrench to turn the lower nut counterclockwise to remove the stud. Once removed, use the socket and wrench to remove the nuts, then move on to the next stud.
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This is the delicate step that prompts dealers to replace the whole trim panel. On the underside of the trim panel are thin rectangular slots that you can fit a thin-bladed screwdriver in. Insert it as shown in the picture, and carefully pry up as you gently try to separate the clip from the slot. Do this for each clip along the bottom. There is one additional clip in the center with no access slot, you just have to get inventive and pry it whatever way you see fit.
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Remove the screw circled in red and remove the plastic retainer it was securing. The camera will now come free. Unplug and replace with new camera.
Reverse all of the above steps. Use the double nut trick to reinstall the studs. You will likely need another person to help you reinstall the interior hatch panel because you have to get all of the plastic rivets lined up to pop it into place.
Hope this helps someone else! If anything was not clear, please let me know. Thanks!
Posted by Nick Halstead on 13 January 2016 - 03:02 AM
Some Hi Res photos and a render of the front.