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Did you return the lever to the normal position, high beams off? I have used the flash to pass feature to disable/enable the auto high beams once.

Please help, and sorry for bed english.... I'm from Croatia.... is it normal for you that when it's a little colder outside... that the car doesn't start at first.... the other day when it was 3C degrees, it misfired 2-3 times and only the first time in the morning, later in during the day it lights up... it is strange to me that when it is turned on in the morning it shows that the outside temp is 87C. battery health is 80%, capacity 75%, voltage about 12.4V... the mechanic says it's ok. the car otherwise works perfectly, pulls, doesn't smoke.. it is 2.0 154KW video: https://youtube.com/shorts/LboaCADX_qA?feature=share

Attached below is a PDF document containing the instructions for Level 10 Competency Field Service Action (FSA) Certified dealership Service technicians to perform the Inspection, and possible replacement of rear shock absorbers if a rear shock absorber is presenting any noise. CSP 24P07 - Service Procedure.pdf

It shouldn't be checked hot. If it is hot it very likely is well over the max line (which is max cold).

I'm not sure I really needed to add any. Now today, driving it a while, I checked it and it is about an inch OVER the max line. I know that won't hurt anything as if it ever does get too high the car will spit it out of the overflow if needed. So, I probably didn't need to add any....I just noticed the color after 2 years wasn't as vibrant of yellow as it is coming out of the bottle.

I bought the SP550X as specified in the owners manual, which in the old part number scheme is CYFS12YPCTX (which each set of letters and numbers can be decoded), but they also show SP594 when I put in my VIN at fordparts.com SP550(X) - CYFS 12 YPC TX SP594 - CYFS 12 YR T3 The first group of letters are the thread, reach, seal type. 12 is the heat range. the suffixes includes ones I have never seen before, and all decoders I can find don't include these (like EE or PP is Double Platinum, N is Nickel) Anecdotally the shell/threads look like a different material, like nickel versus something else shiny but more golden hue (stick with me here...). I am going to put in the SP550 but curious if anyone knew how to decode the suffix and what the difference in these plugs are. I already know that SP550X supersedes the previous SP537 (CYFS 12 Y2)

You absolutely can when they retitle this as an update vs a recall. Why else would the "update" require a new cat to go with the new design? Please....

From the 2020 Edge Workshop Manual, with emphasis added... Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield full-words descriptions of their meaning. Automatic High Beams The automatic high beam system uses an interior rear view mirror mounted camera to monitor surrounding traffic conditions and high beam usage. The camera is hardwired to the IPMA and serviced as an assembly. The IPMA communicates light information over the HS-CAN2 to the GWM then the GWM sends the information to the BCM over the HS-CAN1. The automatic high beam feature is active only when the headlamp switch is in the AUTOLAMPS position. During nighttime driving, the automatic high beam system automatically turns the high beams on if it is dark enough and no other traffic is present. When the system detects an approaching vehicle's headlamps or a preceding vehicle's rear lamps, the system turns off the high beams. When the approaching vehicle's headlamps or the preceding vehicle's rear lamps are no longer detected, the high beams automatically turn back on. The IPMA turns the high beam headlamps on when the following conditions are met: The feature has been enabled using the message center The headlamp switch is in the AUTOLAMPS position and the autolamps feature has turned the exterior lamps on The vehicle speed is greater than 51 km/h (32 mph) The IPMA determines the ambient lighting conditions are dark enough The IPMA does not detect any light source that can be interpreted as an illuminated vehicle lamp The IPMA turns the high beams off if any of the following occur: The IPMA detects any light source that can be interpreted as an illuminated vehicle lamp The IPMA determines the ambient lighting conditions are not dark enough The vehicle speed falls below 44 km/h (27 mph) The autolamps are turned off The IPMA determines the view is blocked Based upon the above, rather than manually switching from high beams to low in the cross-traffic situation you describe, try rotating the headlamp switch out of AUTOLAMPS position -- which should turn off high beams -- and then rotate the headlamps switch back to AUTOLAMPS position when you want to re-establish the activity of the feature. Good luck!

Thanks 1004. Ran codes and it didn't show any for the purge valve but I just swapped in a new one anyway. It did show pending codes for bank 1 & 2 02 sensors so I'm thinking I should replace them?? P2198 and P2196. I'm gonna clear the codes and see if they come back with the new purge valve installed.

Thanks for the information you provided, which is useful, especially the BidFax link which shows the extent of restoration you are facing. Your Edge is a USA-market vehicle that initially was a rental vehicle for Enterprise Rent-A-Car in Las Vegas, Nevada, with one subsequent USA owner before the collision that apparently made it available to you... Attached below are PDF documents showing the Inline Connectors on the Edge's front left corner... If you require additional Connector details, or wiring diagrams specific to certain components, or fuller description of the Inline Connectors' pins-to-circuits and the components involved, just let me know. Good luck! Inline Connectors C139, C140, C192, C193 - Locations - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C193 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C192 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C140 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C139 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf

In my recently-acquired ST, if I drive with the normal startup conditions, the auto-dimming headlights work really well - in fact much better than the 2017 I had before this one. However, If a manually dim the lights, for example when approaching cross-traffic waiting at a stop sign, then the lights stay on low-beam. If I then manually select High Beam, the lights don't dim when approaching another vehicle. My question is how do I restore to normal automatic mode once I have made a manual selection? Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

Even a cheap OBDII device with Forscan would work.

I'm just using a cheap reader I purchased from Amazon. I have noticed that my purge valve is getting pretty noisy so I'm gonna head up to the Zone right now and get a warranty replacement. Thinking I should have used a Motorcraft part in the first place:(

I never had to try. However, on the private Beta ForScan (this post if you can open it) forum someone with a 2019 Edge confirmed it worked for him. Edit: post is quoted below. Big success today with 2.4.10 and PATS programming 2 new keys for my 2019 Edge. Warning: I take no ownership for anyone following in my footsteps. You're at your own risk. I'm just sharing my experience as there doesn't seem to be a lot of posts about successfully using this feature in the same scenario, except for a post I found on a Mustang forum. _______________________________

Mine has done something similar which was caused by the evap valve. What are you using to scan for stored error codes? - I ask because I've found most readers unreliable with my Ford, and now rely on Forscan for that.

I've had this 2011 3.5 since new and it's been maintained extremely well. She just hit 146,000. Was stopped at a light this morning and it started lightly surging forward and backward. RPM gauge was also jumping a little. It didn't throw any codes and seemed to be a little sluggish until I got it home. Anyone ever experience something like this? Any ideas?

Ok, so I did the turbo swap, intake cleaning, and new valve cover gaskets while I was in there... My problem was the waste gate. Even when the actuator was closed the waste gate could flap open because of the slop in the arm connecting the waste gate. I tried to drop the turbo without taking the axle out, but it was made so much easier to drop the axle as it gave so much room. I also needed to buy a new Dorman V-Band clamp Part# 903301, as the Ford one was too narrow for the Mahle turbo. I am guessing they beefed up the turbo flange thickness after mine was built (9/2011). I recommend having a M14x1.5 tap and die set around as I had to chase and clean out the threads of the block and banjo bolt for the coolant feed line. I will also add I bought and installed the J&L Oil Separator catch can. You can't follow their install instructions as its for a 2015+ but the bracket was easily used to mount on a bolt holding the air intake duct to the rad support.

To assist you, I need more information: Model Year 2020 Model of your vehicle: Ford Edge Titanium Market region : I can't say for sure. Bought at auction. If it helps, i can reset the bidfax link ( https://bidfax.info/ford/edge/19174443-ford-edge-titanium-2020-black-20l-4-vin-2fmpk3k96lba56268.html ) When seated in the driver seat looking forward, are the pictured connectors on the front left-hand corner These are the connectors thet connect the bumper wires Blinds, camera, hood lock, ect in my opinion, these are the braided wiring connectors whis the number K2GT-15K867-AE but i don't have their pinout or exact schematic And i'm not sure if they exactly, fit visually

I think from 21 on you are ok. But you may have a small leak somewhere as I don't think you should have to add coolant, even though it is a very small amount. Sounds like you are still under warranty, I would definitely take it to the dealer with your concerns. Even if nothing ever comes out of it, you will have documentation showing there may have been an issue while it was under the warranty period. Most likely nothing to worry about, but cover your bases. Ford seems to be very good a blowing us off for the small things. Almost like unless it is major they don't want to deal with it.

Has that worked for you on an Edge with the new fob? (I think like 2016+) As far as I have seen, the old PATS programming modes in ForScan do not work on any Edges after 1st gen. I think Ford uses some system with registered locksmiths to gain access to the PATS system on all of their vehicles. I originally had a blurb about it in the original write-up for this, but I thought it sounded too much like complaining. Maybe it does prevent theft and misuse, but to be honest the rate of theft on cars hasn't changed since they did this. The only thing that has changed is being forced to pay someone that gets a few more buttons to click on a screen than you do.

I thought FORScan PATS programming only works up to MY2020. I believe that PATS changed for 2021?

Welcome to the Forum, @pjtoledo! Congrats on owning a maintenance-only Edge. You're a Glass City native, or resident? Good luck!

Welcome to the Forum, @Nazar Maksymiak! To assist you, I need more information: Model Year of your vehicle; Model of your vehicle: Edge, MKX, Nautilus; Market region for which your vehicle was manufactured: Africa, Asia Pacific, Caribbean, Europe, Latin America, Middle East, North America; When seated in the driver seat looking forward, are the pictured connectors on the front right-hand corner or the front left-hand corner of the vehicle; The photos appear to show inline connectors, which join together two wiring harnesses, rather than being connected directly to a specific component, such as a headlamp or fog light. Is this true? This photo shows a clear need for restoration, so let's call that Connector "A"... Is Connector "A's" mating connector shown in any of your following photos, and if so, which photo(s)?... Among photos 1 & 3 & 4 & 5, are any of them showing the same connector from a different angle? Is Connector "A" the only connector you want to replace? Once I've received your answers, I should be able to provide you wiring diagram(s) and connector information. Attached below is a communication explaining Ford's Wiring Repair process to dealership Service technicians. Good luck! Ford General Service Bulletin - Wiring Repair - September 2015.pdf

I've had my ST for 2 years now and zero issue. I check all the fluids regularly and I think about once a year I've noticed the coolant gets toward the MIN line on the overflow canister. I added a little pre-diluted Motorcraft Yellow coolant about a year ago, and now again this year. I don't find this out of the ordinary to top it off on any other vehicle I've owned about once a year. What I did notice that the coolant that came out of the new container was a much brighter neon yellow than the coolant in my overflow tank. It has a little darker, dull look to it, albeit still yellow. I'm assuming this is normal due to wear that the coolant won't maintain the bright color right out of the bottle, but concerned about oil intrusion I've read about other engines. I don't think the 22 ST with the 2.7L Turbo has this issue. Just wanted to check with anyone else with an ST a couple of years old and see if the bright yellow coolant has lost some of its luster. I don't have any evidence of coolant in the oil, and I don't think it unusual to add not even a half-inch to the overflow canister once a year. Thanks!

original owner 2019, now 66,000 miles. 2.0 Ecoboost no wrenching on it, yet the livery includes older Rangers and Taurus SHOs