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Locksmith came and was able to program and cut the new 900mhz fob. I used the 5 button aftermarket clone fob and everything worked instantly. I don’t have a power liftgate, but when I press the 2x trunk button, the liftgate unlocks as if I pressed the button on the bottom of it.

Typically power train is 5 year/ 60,000 miles. Call your Ford rep and plead!

You've told us Insurer says corrosion, what did mechanic say? Generally, they would say they missed it and add it to claim if in fact they believe accident caused it. They get more work and guaranteed payment that way. Sounds like it may be co-incidental, but we would just be guessing without the mechanic's follow up report. If you feel the mechanic is wrong for whatever reason, talk with them and if still not happy inform them you are going to have it towed to another mechanic for a 2nd opinion.

My 2014 edge was in a front end collision, the insurance adjuster nor the body shop put it on a lift to check for damage underneath. I get my car back and as soon as I'm driving I hear a weird noise, they kept telling nothings wrong, well the more i drove it, the worse it got, finally it was put on a lift and told the transfer case cracked and came apart. so I call insurance adjuster and he's saying that the damage couldn't have happened in the accident. How can he say that when underneath was never checked. He's saying corrosion caused it. Can an accident cause it to come apart? I've never had any problems with my car. The noise started after the accident. Officer would not allow it to be driven because of all the fluids that were lost on the ground. Can someone give me advice? And answers. Thank you, Michelle

What's the warranty section of your owners manual say for the mileage/time limit.

My car has 71000 miles on it and garage says I need a new transmission. Isn’t this still in warranty under original purchase?

I have a 19 ST. Over the last 4 years I have noticed a slight drop in the coolant level also. I had it pressure checked, with no issues. But I wondered where the coolant went. The newer yellow coolant definitely has a bright yellow fluorescent look to it. Compared to coolant in the tank which has lost some of its luster. I assume this is just the normal breakdown. I only have 26,000 miles on it, but will be doing a drain and refill this summer.

Are you using glare-free highbeam or auto highbeam?

Yes, this threw me for a loop too. I thought it didn't work because there's a delay when the car is programming the new key. When I pressed the start button with the new key nothing happened and I thought something was wrong. Then after about 2 seconds the locks cycled and the hazards blinked.

"in the morning it shows that the outside temp is 87C" - get the intake air temperature sensor checked and replaced if needed - this will make cold starts harder. Get the stored error codes read.

Did you return the lever to the normal position, high beams off? I have used the flash to pass feature to disable/enable the auto high beams once.

Please help, and sorry for bed english.... I'm from Croatia.... is it normal for you that when it's a little colder outside... that the car doesn't start at first.... the other day when it was 3C degrees, it misfired 2-3 times and only the first time in the morning, later in during the day it lights up... it is strange to me that when it is turned on in the morning it shows that the outside temp is 87C. battery health is 80%, capacity 75%, voltage about 12.4V... the mechanic says it's ok. the car otherwise works perfectly, pulls, doesn't smoke.. it is 2.0 154KW video: https://youtube.com/shorts/LboaCADX_qA?feature=share

Attached below is a PDF document containing the instructions for Level 10 Competency Field Service Action (FSA) Certified dealership Service technicians to perform the Inspection, and possible replacement of rear shock absorbers if a rear shock absorber is presenting any noise. CSP 24P07 - Service Procedure.pdf

It shouldn't be checked hot. If it is hot it very likely is well over the max line (which is max cold).

I'm not sure I really needed to add any. Now today, driving it a while, I checked it and it is about an inch OVER the max line. I know that won't hurt anything as if it ever does get too high the car will spit it out of the overflow if needed. So, I probably didn't need to add any....I just noticed the color after 2 years wasn't as vibrant of yellow as it is coming out of the bottle.

I bought the SP550X as specified in the owners manual, which in the old part number scheme is CYFS12YPCTX (which each set of letters and numbers can be decoded), but they also show SP594 when I put in my VIN at fordparts.com SP550(X) - CYFS 12 YPC TX SP594 - CYFS 12 YR T3 The first group of letters are the thread, reach, seal type. 12 is the heat range. the suffixes includes ones I have never seen before, and all decoders I can find don't include these (like EE or PP is Double Platinum, N is Nickel) Anecdotally the shell/threads look like a different material, like nickel versus something else shiny but more golden hue (stick with me here...). I am going to put in the SP550 but curious if anyone knew how to decode the suffix and what the difference in these plugs are. I already know that SP550X supersedes the previous SP537 (CYFS 12 Y2)

You absolutely can when they retitle this as an update vs a recall. Why else would the "update" require a new cat to go with the new design? Please....

From the 2020 Edge Workshop Manual, with emphasis added... Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield full-words descriptions of their meaning. Automatic High Beams The automatic high beam system uses an interior rear view mirror mounted camera to monitor surrounding traffic conditions and high beam usage. The camera is hardwired to the IPMA and serviced as an assembly. The IPMA communicates light information over the HS-CAN2 to the GWM then the GWM sends the information to the BCM over the HS-CAN1. The automatic high beam feature is active only when the headlamp switch is in the AUTOLAMPS position. During nighttime driving, the automatic high beam system automatically turns the high beams on if it is dark enough and no other traffic is present. When the system detects an approaching vehicle's headlamps or a preceding vehicle's rear lamps, the system turns off the high beams. When the approaching vehicle's headlamps or the preceding vehicle's rear lamps are no longer detected, the high beams automatically turn back on. The IPMA turns the high beam headlamps on when the following conditions are met: The feature has been enabled using the message center The headlamp switch is in the AUTOLAMPS position and the autolamps feature has turned the exterior lamps on The vehicle speed is greater than 51 km/h (32 mph) The IPMA determines the ambient lighting conditions are dark enough The IPMA does not detect any light source that can be interpreted as an illuminated vehicle lamp The IPMA turns the high beams off if any of the following occur: The IPMA detects any light source that can be interpreted as an illuminated vehicle lamp The IPMA determines the ambient lighting conditions are not dark enough The vehicle speed falls below 44 km/h (27 mph) The autolamps are turned off The IPMA determines the view is blocked Based upon the above, rather than manually switching from high beams to low in the cross-traffic situation you describe, try rotating the headlamp switch out of AUTOLAMPS position -- which should turn off high beams -- and then rotate the headlamps switch back to AUTOLAMPS position when you want to re-establish the activity of the feature. Good luck!

Thanks 1004. Ran codes and it didn't show any for the purge valve but I just swapped in a new one anyway. It did show pending codes for bank 1 & 2 02 sensors (P2198 and P2196). Cleared the codes after installing the new purge valve and all seems fine now:)

Thanks for the information you provided, which is useful, especially the BidFax link which shows the extent of restoration you are facing. Your Edge is a USA-market vehicle that initially was a rental vehicle for Enterprise Rent-A-Car in Las Vegas, Nevada, with one subsequent USA owner before the collision that apparently made it available to you... Attached below are PDF documents showing the Inline Connectors on the Edge's front left corner... If you require additional Connector details, or wiring diagrams specific to certain components, or fuller description of the Inline Connectors' pins-to-circuits and the components involved, just let me know. Good luck! Inline Connectors C139, C140, C192, C193 - Locations - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C193 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C192 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C140 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf Inline Connector C139 - Circuit-Pin Details - 2020 Edge.pdf

In my recently-acquired ST, if I drive with the normal startup conditions, the auto-dimming headlights work really well - in fact much better than the 2017 I had before this one. However, If a manually dim the lights, for example when approaching cross-traffic waiting at a stop sign, then the lights stay on low-beam. If I then manually select High Beam, the lights don't dim when approaching another vehicle. My question is how do I restore to normal automatic mode once I have made a manual selection? Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

Even a cheap OBDII device with Forscan would work.

I'm just using a cheap reader I purchased from Amazon. I have noticed that my purge valve is getting pretty noisy so I'm gonna head up to the Zone right now and get a warranty replacement. Thinking I should have used a Motorcraft part in the first place:(

I never had to try. However, on the private Beta ForScan (this post if you can open it) forum someone with a 2019 Edge confirmed it worked for him. Edit: post is quoted below. Big success today with 2.4.10 and PATS programming 2 new keys for my 2019 Edge. Warning: I take no ownership for anyone following in my footsteps. You're at your own risk. I'm just sharing my experience as there doesn't seem to be a lot of posts about successfully using this feature in the same scenario, except for a post I found on a Mustang forum. _______________________________

Mine has done something similar which was caused by the evap valve. What are you using to scan for stored error codes? - I ask because I've found most readers unreliable with my Ford, and now rely on Forscan for that.