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2008 Edge Trans issues


CorvZ061

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Our Edge has recently (after brake booster and master cylinder replacement) started a somewhat strange issue. On the interstate, between 70-80mph the torque converter unlocks, and the RPM's rise as you would expect. It's like you pressed the O/D off button. There is no Torque Converter shutter, no codes stored, and turbine input speed sensor was replaced 6 months ago and been fine since.

 

Any idea's?

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Did you disconnect the battery while doing the MC/BB replacement? Has the PCM re-learned your driving style? Any/all wiring disconnected for the repair correctly re-connected?

 

Could be completely unrelated to the recent repairs. How many miles on your Edge? Maintenance up to date (spark plugs, engine oil, trans fluid, etc)?

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Only did the TSS, was able to see the data feed from the OSS and it looked fine. Bought te sensor from dealership, so it would be a Ford part, have had bad luck with aftermarket sensors in the past, and ones that are a pain to replace I'll usually go OE on.

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Does the O/D button have any effect when the TCC lockup fails?

 

Though the shift lever/sensor is not a known issue with the Gen 1 Edge, it is worth pulling it and checking all the wiring for shorts.

 

This probably does not apply, but explains how a brake issue can become a transmission issue:

 

"When performing Ford’s deactivation switch recall I have encountered vehicles where so much brake fluid has traveled up through the speed control servo wiring harness to the servo-amp, brake fluid actually comes out of the servo-amp connector. I have never seen the brake fluid travel as far and take as many turns as it did on this Town Car to get to this one 16 pin connector over in the left corner of the bulkhead. An insulated wire makes a nice little pipe and those weather tight sealed connectors along the way are a dandy conveyor of pressure and liquid. And old brake fluid tends to be fairly conductive, particularly with the moisture and minerals it picks up as it does its job."

http://www.askamechanic.info/askamech2/content/view/114/47/

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When the TCC does lock up, you can press the O/D off button and the TCC unlocks, press the button to turn O/D back on and sometimes the converter locks up, sometimes it doesn't. I will look into a wiring issue with shifter.

 

My initial though was maybe the brake switch, but sense the shift interlocks works correctly and the brake lights work correctly, am I right in thinking that switch is likely working as it should?

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I'm not certain about this car, but I do know on other cars I've had in the past the TCC is fed through the brake switch, it unlocks the converter when you apply the brakes. It also unlock te shift interlock so that you can't shift out of park without the brakes on. No idea if that's the case here, though.

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CorvZ061

 

My money is on the brake switch.

 

Here are some wiring diagrams that may help you out.

 

The brake switch has two poles, one of which is an input to the PCM.

 

Good Luck!

That's what I was afraid of. I'll stop by the dealership tonight and pick one up, only $38 anyway.

 

Thanks everyone!

 

P.s. Anything special I need to know about when installing the new one?

Edited by CorvZ061
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I assume this is the stoplamp switch assembly we are talking about, right? If so, here is the FSM procedure for R&R:

 

Stoplamp Switch

post-23566-0-29981300-1437503428_thumb.gif


Item Part Number Description

1 — Stoplamp switch electrical connector (part of 14290)

2 9G854 Stoplamp switch

 

Removal

  1. Disconnect the stoplamp switch electrical connector.
  1. NOTE: The stoplamp switch will be difficult to remove if the switch plunger is not depressed. A slight rearward force should be adequate to depress the plunger.

    With a light force (approximately 1-4 N [1-3 lb]), pull rearward on the brake pedal, rotate the stoplamp switch 45 degrees clockwise and remove the stoplamp switch.

Installation

CAUTION: It is very important to not press, pull or touch the brake pedal assembly during the installation of the stoplamp switch. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the stoplamp switch.

  1. Without movement to the brake pedal assembly, install the stoplamp switch and rotate 45 degrees counterclockwise.
  1. Connect the stoplamp switch electrical connector.

 

7T4Z-13480-AA
Switch Assy - Stop Light
Production Date: 11/2006-03/2007
Replaced by: 8T4Z-13480-A
8T4Z-13480-A
Switch Assy - Stop Light
Production Date: 03/2007-03/2012

 

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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I assume this is the stoplamp switch assembly we are talking about, right? If so, here is the FSM procedure for R&R:

 

Stoplamp Switch

2007 Edge Stoplamp Switch (BOO Switch).gif

 

Item Part Number Description

1 Stoplamp switch electrical connector (part of 14290)

2 9G854 Stoplamp switch

 

Removal

  • Disconnect the stoplamp switch electrical connector.
  • NOTE: The stoplamp switch will be difficult to remove if the switch plunger is not depressed. A slight rearward force should be adequate to depress the plunger. With a light force (approximately 1-4 N [1-3 lb]), pull rearward on the brake pedal, rotate the stoplamp switch 45 degrees clockwise and remove the stoplamp switch.

Installation

CAUTION: It is very important to not press, pull or touch the brake pedal assembly during the installation of the stoplamp switch. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the stoplamp switch.

  • Without movement to the brake pedal assembly, install the stoplamp switch and rotate 45 degrees counterclockwise.
  • Connect the stoplamp switch electrical connector.

So essentially let the pedal rest in its normal location, and push the sensor in place and rotate to lock in place. I'm guess the hydraulic pressure of the brake system will keep the pedal from moving and will adjust the switch to where it needs to be?

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No idea, but since the procedure doesn't reference (by name or section of manual) anything else, I'd think so. I know it was very quick & easy in the 90's Taurus, hopefully they kept it just as simple here.

 

This post in a BB DIY thread also seems to imply that the procedure is as simple as the FSM puts it:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/5071-brake-booster-diy/?do=findComment&comment=58280

 

Unrelated to this concern, but there is a TSB that involves dragging brakes and the BOO switch:

07-11-9
BRAKE DRAG
Some Edge/MKX vehicles may exhibit brake drag from the rear wheels or all wheels. Customers may notice an odor and/or reduced powertrain performance. In some cases, the driver may also note an integral vehicle dynamics (IVD) light after driving a given distance due to pressure noted in the module without a change in brake on/off (BOO) state. • To resolve the brake drag concern from all wheels - Replacement of the BOO switch is necessary. • To resolve the brake drag concern from the rear wheels only - Adjustment of the park brake cables are necessary.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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No idea, but since the procedure doesn't reference (by name or section of manual) anything else, I'd think so. I know it was very quick & easy in the 90's Taurus, hopefully they kept it just as simple here.

 

This post in a BB DIY thread also seems to imply that the procedure is as simple as the FSM puts it:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/5071-brake-booster-diy/?do=findComment&comment=58280

Hopefully so, I'll report back later this evening

 

edit: it appears the brake light switch did indeed fix the issue.

Edited by CorvZ061
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