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Replaced tss oss and made things worse


turnofftheradio

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Hello, first post here. Thanks for the help.

2009 Edge fwd 6f50, mercon V, 98k miles

 

So I was having some erratic shifting lately. No codes. usually an intermittent slip/ delayed engagement from 3-4, and 4-5. Usually worse when cold. I figured I'd replace the tss and oss and replace the fluid, since it seems so common by this mileage.

 

Everything went ok during replacement, fluid old but not full of stuff, the 2 new sensors in place, assembled the valve body to the trans, new seperator plate for the solenoid pack, buttoned up and filled. On to the test drive...

 

All was good until 3-4 shift. Big flare and very slow engagement. Once in gear its ok and does not seem to slip. This is now every time instead of intermittent. Still no codes.

 

Back in the driveway, I pulled it all apart again. I did not pinch any wires. the gasket is not damaged. Not sure where to go next. I guess I'll disassemble the valve body. If I do that, It seems appropriate to put a zip kit in.

 

How can I test the solenoid pack? I can measure ohms, they all read the same other than the one on/off solenoid, which I assume is ok. But they are pwm solenoids, I cant just apply voltage and watch them go.

Edited by turnofftheradio
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Plugs and PCV valve serviced already? Due at this mileage.

 

As far as the solenoid body assembly, each solenoid A-D (E is a bit different) is checked thusly, noting that codes when available dictate which actual tests to perform:

 

CHECK THE SSX CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN

  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: Transmission Vehicle Harness C168 .
  • Disconnect: PCM C175T .
  • Inspect the connectors for damaged or pushed out terminals, corrosion, loose wires and missing or damaged seals.
  • Measure the resistance between the appropriate pin on the trans connector (+ve lead) and the PCM connector (-ve lead). Should be < 5 ohms else repair circuit.

CHECK THE SSX FOR AN OPEN

  • Measure the component side resistance between the appropriate pin (+ve lead) and ground (-ve lead). Resistance should be between 4.0 and 7.2 ohms else replace PCM. Possibly replace SBA otherwise. (For solenoid E, Resistance should be between 20 and 34 ohms)

CHECK THE SSX CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND

  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: Transmission Vehicle Harness C168 .
  • Disconnect: PCM C175T .
  • Inspect the connectors for damaged or pushed out terminals, corrosion, loose wires and missing or damaged seals.
  • Measure the resistance between the appropriate pin on the trans connector (+ve) and ground (-ve). Resistance should be > 10,000 ohms else repair circuit.

 

CHECK THE SSX FOR A SHORT TO GROUND

  • Measure the component side resistance between the appropriate pin (+ve) and ground (-ve). Resistance should be < 5 ohms, else replace PCM. Possibly replace SBA otherwise.

 

CHECK THE SSX CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE

  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: Transmission Vehicle Harness C168 .
  • Disconnect: PCM C175T .
  • Inspect the connectors for damaged or pushed out terminals, corrosion, loose wires and missing or damaged seals.
  • Ignition ON.
  • Measure the voltage between the appropriate pin on the trans connector (+ve) and ground (-ve). If any voltage is present, repair the circuit. Else, replace the PCM. (for solenoid E, repair the circuit if voltage present, otherwise check for short to ground)
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Thanks!

After testing, the harness shows continuity, without shorts to ground.

The solenoids tested within range, right in the middle of the road @ 5-6 ohms, as well as sol.E at 25 ohms

I have not yet completed testing for a short to voltage.

 

My suspicions right now are steering me towards the valve body itself, especially after electrical checks, and the lack of a code. I'm ordering some gaskets and will open it up. Hopefully something will be suspect in there. I'll throw a sonnax kit in it if I open it. It does feel as if a valve in there is slow or hangs, maybe from a broken spring, or leaky end plug, or maybe a worn bore or valve.

 

I just bought this edge (knowing of the trans issue) and It was a good deal in every sense, but that means I have not had much wheel time to diagnose it. Previous owner said he never has serviced anything with the trans before. Usually, when I fix stuff it doesn't get worse, so I have to find some enjoyment going through a trans that is unfamiliar to me. I've been intrigued by the idea that the solenoids are all built into a disposable plastic unit, flow tested and mapped, and replaceable as assembly across multiple automakers. Kinda amazing. The more I think about it maybe it's not a bad idea. More expensive up front, but If you are going to replace one solenoid there is some logic that they should all be replaced.

 

Anyways, Thanks again for the diagnosis help! Lets hope it warms up a bit. Much more fun, and much faster without the freezing temps.

 

Edit to add, I think it would be a good idea to check the range sensor at this point. I think I have correct directions for that procedure. If it needs replacement now is a great time.

Edited by turnofftheradio
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thanks for the help so far. I'll update when I make some progress, hopefully soon. My wife is not so hot on the valve body centerpiece on the table. The kids like it though.

Just hit the English Gardens store on Ford Road and put some flowers on top of it!!! :):) Should cover Valentines day Too!!!

Edited by fishx65
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Just hit the English Gardens store on Ford Road and put some flowers on top of it!!! :):) Should cover Valentines day Too!!!

Overpriced, but nice. I live a handful of blocks away from there. I think the best valentines day I could give my wife would be having her edge driving again. She likes the 500, but it's cupholders don't light up pink.

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So, out came the valve body again. I bought 3 gaskets (plates) for the valve body sections, and another new filter plate for the solenoids. I also put in a 6f50 sonnax zip kit. It's a nice kit, and something to think about adding if you ever have the valve body out anyways. I got mine on amazon for <$150

 

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3743-zip-kit

 

I disassembled the valve body entirely, and cleaned it. Then I added the zip kit parts and re assembled. The valves/bores had some minor wear, but 2 of the end plugs had significant wear, which surprised me but the new o-ringed ones in the zip kit fix that.

 

20180210.jpg

 

There's a lot of parts in here. If you do this, you need a large work area that is clean, a pick, a magnet and patience. It took me about 2 hours to clean and add the kit and reassemble.

 

The result? Shifts really quite nice. I still feel like there is something funny/ laggy about 3-4, but minor now, my wife says I'm crazy and does not have any issues with it. I'll take it to the dealer to see if there is a pcm/tcm update for it in the near future.

 

I appreciate the help through the repair!

Edited by turnofftheradio
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2 hrs is a pretty nice turnaround for the VB/Zip kit! Have you checked the TRS resistance values yet?

Well I had to beat the snow! We had a good break for a few hours yesterday. I have 2 projects in the garage. I wasn't really expecting another project this winter, so I had to driveway this repair, which I don't love as much as I used to in the winter. But, now its done and I can go back to the other 2.

 

Yep, the range sensor was within range lol.

 

I came close to just putting one in anyways as I would prefer not to see the inside of this trans for a long time.

 

Thanks for the compliment on time, I was thinking how I'd be fired if I worked at a trans shop and took that long lol. A long time ago, I worked at a Chrysler dealer in West Bloomfield (as well as some other dealers) as a tech. The guy in the stall beside me was a trans tech. Somehow, he could go from driving an intrepid/lhs/concord etc, in his bay. In 1.5 hrs he would drive it out with a completely rebuilt trans. It was something to see in person. I only saw him 2-3 half days a week, and he took over 100k a year home. I always thought it would be cool to be the master of transmissions like that. Beat the book by a lot every time! He was a very happy and very nice guy.

I liked working as a tech, I went to college for it through GM's program. So many guys getting their backs fused together, pain meds etc, they all told me to be smart, don't get old doing this. I listened. I'm glad I'm in good shape to continue working on my own cars and project cars for fun, with no apparent end in sight. Perhaps that wouldn't be if I had not left that field. Or, I'd be getting discounts on parts and have a shop and lift at my disposal... life is never short of could haves!

Edited by turnofftheradio
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Well, still a darned fine time for someone whose livelihood is not being a trans tech! I mean, if you look at the same part type day in day out, you don't have to think as much, your actions are defined and repetitive, you save a lot of time.

 

Glad you got out early before physical debility set in. Mechanics that I have had the pleasure of working with did not (they enjoyed the work too much), and paid the price :(

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