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Test Forum
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Posts
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Hi All, Firstly, I have a 9 speaker ford stock speaker setup. I have been running Rockford 3-way in rears and I am pretty satisfied with sound. The stock would sound distorted at higher volumes, these don't so far Recently, I was listening to music around 22 volume and +5 bass, the stock front speaker sounded fine till 20 but at 22 I could feel the front speaker distort, whereas rear seemed just fine. (Just to add my fader is just +3 from rear) Now, I want to upgrade the front as well but after some research, the best way would be to go with component and I am quite inclined towards these (since I am on a budget). However, I am not willing to change the stock tweeters since from some videos they seem to require modifications but that's for later. Before that, I am wanted to check if the front doors have crossovers installed from factory? And can I just replace front lower mid-range woofer with the above Rockford component woofer and call it a day? Also, what is this device on the front door panels? (I might be sounding stupid here lol) Any suggestions or guidance is welcomed!
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I have 2013 Edge limited with Sync 2. I had removed the old radio and installed an Autotec aftermarket radio. After connecting everything I noticed my car will not turn off. It keeps running even after I remove the key. In order to turn off the car I had to disconnect the battery. When I reconnect the battery the car turns on with no key in the ignition like it thinks the key is in the on position. Hitting the brakes, turn the key, lock unlock on the fob is not working. This is such an od ball problem.
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SSM 52463 - 2024 Nautilus - Heated Steering Wheel Temperature Variation In Certain Areas On 2024 Nautilus vehicles, the heated steering wheel temperature may vary in areas of the steering wheel where the horizontal spokes join the rim. Customers may express concern that these areas are not heating as fully as the top and bottom steering wheel rim sections. This may be due to the layout of heating wires inside the steering wheel. Do not attempt repairs or submit a claim for this normal operating characteristic.
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Ford has developed an interim workaround for this issue until fully revised Driver Front Seat Module (DSM) software is released... SSM 52462 2024 Nautilus - Driver Seat And Steering Column Not Moving To Easy Entry Position After Setting Up A Client Profile Some 2024 Nautilus vehicles may exhibit a concern with the driver seat and steering column moving to the saved memory position instead of the easy entry position when approaching or unlocking the vehicle with the key fob. This condition may occur after setting up a client profile and is due to the driver front seat module (DSM) software. Inform customers that they can continue to drive the vehicle and that engineering is currently working on revised DSM software for this condition that is expected in Q3 2024. In the interim, easy entry will function if the key fob is unlinked from the customers personal profile by selecting the profile on the center display screen, pressing the edit icon, choosing ID Method, pressing Unlink Key Fob, and then selecting Unlink from the pop-up screen. The customers driver seat and steering column memory settings will no longer be saved to the key fob but can be recalled by using the memory switches on the door or on the center display screen. Monitor OASIS for additional information and schedule service appointments for customers once the repair becomes available.
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I am also having the same issue. Exactly the same. Liftgate was hitting the garage door so I stopped it with my hand. Now it doesn’t work anymore. I tried the reset on the liftgate. It beeped but still doesn’t work. Seems like this should be easy to resolve….but how?
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Sounds like it probably has the 3.5, which was the standard engine for an SEL for that year. The 20 extra HP from a 3.7 could be appreciated but probably not as apparent as it seems. If the water pump/seal failed, and failed in a way to fill the crank case full of coolant and water, and it was ran that way, it likely needs a replacement engine. $3,000-$6,000 (especially with AWD) in labor to R&R an engine and replace the water pump and timing, $1500-$2000 for a used engine delivered, maybe far less if you can source it locally from a junk yard, especially a you pull it type place, but lots of additional work.
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By TheGr8Ginger · Posted
Sadly, I'm pretty sure my engines toast, as last I ran it (3+ months ago), it had SUPER foamy oil. Noticed I'd be going through a gallon or more coolant a week often, so I'm leaning towards the water pump failure. I'm hoping somebody here's has some input on what I can expect when talking to a mechanic. I'm curious as to what this community would say to expect regarding price with either an engine replacement vs rebuilding the current engine. Realized I haven't given vehicle specs yet: Year: 2013 Model: Edge SEL AWD Sadly, I've also still got a loan on this thing (<$4k), and am focusing on just getting that paid off first, as my better half has a Yukon she's graciously letting me borrow. Just miss the mpg efficiency enough to FINALLY start doing some research into this. Pretty sure I have a 3.5, but I'm a nerd not an engine guy, so correct me if I'm wrong. Outside of some better HP/Torque, would there be any benefit to swapping up to the 3.7? I mostly live off cruise control (+5mph speed limit at most), but occasionally enjoy feeling a little young again and putting a little bit more peep, so would the 3.7's power difference be that noticeable? If MPG is a noticeable difference, is it yay or nay with outcome? Thanks for any input you're able to provide! -
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Found the connectors with pins for $2.40 each, so even with shipping I am still under $16 and can do 3 of them. I don't know what size crimper I need for these pins, I don't think my small ones or my large ones will do them cleanly, so will measure them and add to my tool collection.
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By Irishwarlord · Posted
2012 Edge Sport 3.7 battery went dead. Tried to start, however, the voltage was low and the lights in the instrument cluster were flashing. Received a jump, car started but GPS was not tracking our travel progress. Removed A4 card and waited 5 minuntes. Plugged the card back in, no change. GPS is stuck on the location of the battery jump. Any idea how to reset, reload the A4 card?
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