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Radiator fan assembly replacement procedure


autom8r

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Finished. Took about 45 minutes. Most of the time was wrestling the part in and out - not much room there. New one works fine.

I did not see a lower hose support - at least not one connected to the fan assembly. Maybe that was part of the problem.

 

In any event it's done. I tested the old one and sure enough the passenger side fan had bad bearings in the motor.

 

Now we can go trade it in on a new Escape Titanium....

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Lesson learned, don't buy a TYC cooling fan assembly. After the mechanic said that he thought the module went bad and I ordered the other fan, thought for sure would be an easy swap of modules. Hooked up the new fan and it worked for bout 5 min then started doing same thing, not shutting off. At this point thought for sure something else must be causing this, whats chances of getting 2 brand new fans that are bad??? Mechanic said was module again. I was skeptical but I ended up getting a VDO brand from autostore. was twice as much at $300 but works perfectly now. Will never buy TYC again. Could have been done along time ago if bought the better fan, and wouldn't have had to pay mechanic.

Edited by Rdom10
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I used the Dorman part from Amazon - $150.

 

In the car the fan wasn't running at all. When I put 12V directly to it then it ran slowly with noise. I think it would run for a few minutes then get hot and seize up.

 

This vehicle is 6 years old and once it starts to have a problem the wife wants to get rid of it. We're also looking to downsize and she doesn't like the MKC (and I don't like the price). Upgrading to keyless starting, MFT and others will be good. I hate having to take my keys out of my pocket and putting it into the ignition. Are we spoiled or just lazy?

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  • 2 months later...

If I can add something here. I followed everything as instructed except if you buy a dorman, I had to disconnect the top left hose on radiator. Not doing so made it hell since the heat guard on the AC fan is lifted off the assembly and cannot fit by about half a cm. I decided to take the top left hose off and raised it and the fan assembly slipped in like a baby. To add to this, the new Dorman fan for my Ford Edge 2008 wont turn on. I do get 12 v on the connector. Is the control module the one it hooks on that comes with the assembly or is it different. I am looking at Oreilly's and the fan control module looks nothing like anything on the old or new fan assembly,

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Finally Fixed I just went outside all frustrated as I was thinking I got a bad fan or just bad deal on my Forde Edge. I pulled my Edge out of the Garage shut it off and then as I read above the not OEM part you gotto shove the connector into the fan assembly even if it doesn't snap so I shove it in there as hard as I could since it felt like it already couldnt connect anymore. Anyways I shoved it in which I doubt wasnt but a millimeter I would say and funny thing when I turned on the truck I was frustrated and shut it off and to my surprise I heard the fans on and I was like whaaaaaaa..... I couldnt hear the fans with the motor on. After shoving the plug in as hard as I could I could not believe it... the SOB worked... the Dorman fan model is 621-392. Fans blowing hard as heck right now. I will tell you these if you want to just avoid the hassle like me, slip off the top hose and raise it up. You will no drip much coolant at all and you will avoid about an hours worth trying to wedge the fan in. I thank you for your PDF instructions but the Dorman has a raised heat guard that does not allow it to slip in by about a cm. I went under the Edge and saw what it was being snapped onto. Tried it everyway that I could and just decided to take off the top left Radiator hose and like I said it slipped right it which could have saved me almost an hours worth of sweat and hassle. I followed everything except for that. Thank you good people for your posts and will keep you updated on the new fan if any problems.

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Thanks for the instructions, they worked a treat. Update on what I found on the Doorman brand fans; the plug is TIGHT and I have no fear of it ever coming off so hopefully that is an issue for the past. Also this fan had a metal heat shield with some stand off bolts on the drivers side fan instead of the fiber heat shield of the original as noted above. It seems to me to be a better deal and so I was able to skip the part about removing the old heat shield from the old fan and gluing it to the new one. One note is that it makes it a bit harder to put back in (with the shield) than it was to take it out (with just the cloth) but I found it does still fit using the directions included above. Not sure if they have shortened it a bit since the previous folks got theirs but for whatever reason I got it in without taking off the radiator hose. I did have to flex the AC lines over by the air box location now that I think about it but nothing extreme and that let it slip in. Took me about 20 minutes and everything is right with the world. I too had no lower radiator hose mount bold to remove for those keeping score, its a 2008.

Edited by csmcolorado
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  • 2 weeks later...

Same here. Just replaced the wife's 09 with a Dorman (non tow) unit and it worked just fine without removing the hose. It is tight and take some wriggling with the metal heat shield in place but I do like it much better than the factory heat shield. No lower hose mount here either. And no issues getting the connection to snap firmly in place - it snapped in just like the factory connection and is rock solid. My biggest problem was getting the passenger side fan assembly bolt back in. My hands were just a little too big to fit easily in there and I struggled for nearly 20 minutes before I finally got enough leverage and hit the threads just right - was on the verge of removing the hose to the overflow to gain more room but thankfully it didn't come to that...

 

Thanks for the excellent instructions! Always nice to save some $$. I figure at least $4 to 500 extra bux in my pocket!

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  • 1 month later...

RJN0711

 

The better code readers will let you scan the temperature. A reading from a bad sensor will not make sense, reading absurdly high or low or not read at all. If the sensor was faulty, the ECM would cause the fan to run at high speed to protect the engine. The temperature sensor is connected to the ECM, and the ECM decides whether to turn the fans on or not. The output from the ECM signal may be on/off or PWM, depending on the fan module.

 

The temperature sensor is not a thermostat, but a thermistor or RTD, a device that varies in resistance based upon temperature. Some are non-linear.

 

There are two different style fan assemblies. One is specific for Edges equipped with tow packages. The two are not interchangeable so make sure you order the right one. The fan motor windings can be tested by disconnecting the motor leads from the fan module on the housing and checking their resistance. If the motor windings are open or shorted, the motor is fried.

 

In your case, I think one or both of the fan motors is fried. If after you install the fan assembly and immediately the new fans spool up 100% with a cold engine, I would check the temperature sensor next. It could be that a bad temperature sensor caused the ECM to spool up the fans and that the fan motors fried after being on all the time.

 

Of course I yield the floor to thirdgenlxi if he wants to chime in!

You say the the tow and non tow fans are not interchangeble - Is it connector and wiring related? I know about the relay difference (2) 40a vs (1) 60a

 

 

I just bought a used edge that had a FOMCO hitch and trailer plug on it but the OEM window sticker did not say tow package. My mistake as I planned on towing 3000#

 

I have verified its the 60 a non tow cooling. I would like to upgrade to complet the tow package.

 

 

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You say the the tow and non tow fans are not interchangeble - Is it connector and wiring related? I know about the relay difference (2) 40a vs (1) 60a

 

 

I just bought a used edge that had a FOMCO hitch and trailer plug on it but the OEM window sticker did not say tow package. My mistake as I planned on towing 3000#

 

I have verified its the 60 a non tow cooling. I would like to upgrade to complet the tow package.

 

 

paradiddle1:

 

From the look of things, you may be able to modify the wiring to suit the towing package. The wire colors seem consistent between the two, the only concern seems to be the fan control variable. On the tow package the fans stage and the speed modulates. I'm not certain what the the fans do on the non-tow configuration.

 

Good luck!

 

 

Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf

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I did some more research on another thread. The other 40a connector is not wired in to the fuse block ( slot# 40) - everything else is the same - except I have a chart that says the tow connector to fan uses 8ga wire vs 10 ga for non tow. I think you are right about the fans working independently as needed. I thought all fans worked that way as my 97 grand caravan does that but I will check. as I am new to the car I think I did here the fans on full blast and no in between. I am going to buy that FOMOCO fan and try it anyway first to see. I will worry about rewire later if it works successfully.

Edge fan plug

IMG 0669

IMG 0668

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  • 5 months later...

Hello all, this would be my first post to this forum. I have had a '09 Lincoln MKX for about a year now and it has the fan running issue but only when the heat or a/c is on. With the heat or a/c off, the fan doesn't run until needed. Based on everything I read in this string plus other internet research, I ordered a new fan assembly and just installed it. The installation process wasn't bad thanks to the instructions supplied earlier in this string. The problem is the original problem didn't go away. With the vehicle running without the heat or a/c on, the fans don't run but as soon as I turn on one or the other, the fans come on and run. Please help!

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My fans don't run, matter of fact I hardly ever hear them running. Should I be worried?

Ok, I'll ask the obvious question - is the engine overheating? The fans only run when they need to run to keep the engine cool. If they're not running but engine temp is normal then there is no problem.

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  • 1 month later...

Can anyone confirm if the Dorman part number 621-392 is correct part number for a non-tow package 2008 ford edge? Also, is the fan noticeably louder than the standard fan. I saw some reviews on amazon equating this to an airplane taking off. Thank you in advance.

Edited by nwil10
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I think you will find opinions on Dorman parts are that dorman are junk. The rule is buy two dorman parts.

Can anyone confirm if the Dorman part number 621-392 is correct part number for a non-tow package 2008 ford edge? Also, is the fan noticeably louder than the standard fan. I saw some reviews on amazon equating this to an airplane taking off. Thank you in advance.

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Check them out on Amazon. There are multiple types and have photos of the product. Do a close up of the product view. I did and compared the dorman to the spectra and the spectra was a far more finished product and it weighs 2lbs more which means the materials involved/motors and plastics are heavier. Not that weight means the product is bad but doing a close up of the parts will tell you the doorman appears to be shoddy quality and is shoddy. Besides this is the cooling of the engine. Spend a bit more and buy the better part. I would. Another way is to research where Ford obtains their parts and a lot of times the same manufacturer sells the parts under a different name as aftermarket. Sort of like Delphi parts compared to AC/DELCO on GM and Chevy. pay attention to the motor covers and wiring connectors and harnesses on the fans this will also tell you a lot on quality. Personally I looked and I would be more prone to go either spectra (just because of my miles) or the ford replacement. Depending of course on you funding

What brand would you recommend?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just found this thread while researching A/C not cooling when parked, and running hot when stopped. Discovered fans are not turning on at all. Decided to tackle this project instead of taking it in. Just ordered the Dorman part online. Would have gone for a better quality brand if I could confirm one for sure was better, but with all the reports here of the specific Dorman part working ok, I decided to just go with it to save any frustration.

 

Will report back when job is complete.

 

.

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Great let us know how it works out. You can do it!! I knew a Fortunato when I was in the military (Navy)

Just found this thread while researching A/C not cooling when parked, and running hot when stopped. Discovered fans are not turning on at all. Decided to tackle this project instead of taking it in. Just ordered the Dorman part online. Would have gone for a better quality brand if I could confirm one for sure was better, but with all the reports here of the specific Dorman part working ok, I decided to just go with it to save any frustration.

 

Will report back when job is complete.

 

.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Many thanks to all for the valuable information, instructions, and lessons learned. Recently replaced an original cooling fan module with a TYC part on a 2008 Edge. As advertised from the posts in this thread, it is a tight fit and does not include the lower hose bracket. New part works great, although my next concern is the temp sensor if the fans are running with a cold engine. Thanks again for all the help

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  • 2 weeks later...

Agree with btribley - thanks for the information and instructions! I just used the instructions to change out a faulty fan assembly on my wife's 2008 SEL. The AC fan had stopped working but the radiator fan was still functioning and cooling the engine. I spent the $130 on Amazon for the Dorman part, hoping that it would fix the issue. So far so good! I started up, turned the AC on high and both fans were operating. And here in Houston, warm blowing AC when sitting in traffic is not acceptable! A couple comments I have...I did not see an 8mm screw in the bottom of the OEM part I pulled out, just one of the left and one of the right. The passenger side screw was tough to get to due to some hoses crowding the space, but with a little patience you CAN get to it. I slid a long screwdriver down into the space and gently pryed the hose out of the way so I could get the socket wrench in there. Also, the instructions are definitely correct about pulling the assembly...it takes some wiggling and patience. There are a lot of little tabs and parts that get snagged on things in the compartment, so best to wiggle it, and when it gets stuck, stop and look all around the assembly for where it is getting stuck. Then move it around gently to release that snag, and pull some more, repeat.

 

Another note - the Dorman part I ordered (non-towing) came with a metal heat shield already screwed into place, so I didn't need to glue on the old one. Surprisingly, the OEM part was just a plastic cover with the heat shield glued on.

 

Also, the AFMS connector was tricky at first (I don't have much experience working under the hood). There is a small sliding piece on the bottom of the connector, believe it was red. Seems this has to be slid out to release the connector. I used a flat head screwdriver and pryed it out a bit, then the connector released.

 

Those were my observations...good luck and thanks again!

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