Cody Loney Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) I dont know if it's just me or not, but I've had mine on for about a year and a half, removed lower insulators and it has never sat quite right, it's still a 1/2" higher in the front and it bugs the crap out of me! Anyone else experiencing this too? Suggestions? 2011 Edge Limited AWD w/ 20" OEM wheels Edited August 13, 2015 by Cody Loney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Cut a half coil off the front springs. If you want it lower, cut another 1/2 coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Loney Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Cut a half coil off the front springs. If you want it lower, cut another 1/2 coil. Has anybody done this without any issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Cut springs? People do it all the time on all types of vehicles. The only issue you may have is if the H&R's are coiled "non-standard" at the end. Meaning the coils get tight and close together at the ends instead of a uniform coil spacing/progression. You may have to grind a flat top/bottom back onto the last coil as well depending on how the coil spring sits on the strut. Cutting the spring will increase the spring rate as well, so cut as little as possible to get the drop you are after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Loney Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Yeah the bottom coil on the edge is slightly "tighter" coiled than the second coil which makes me wonder if anyone has actually cut specifically the edge springs without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Halstead Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 I dont know if it's just me or not, but I've had mine on for about a year and a half, removed lower insulators and it has never sat quite right, it's still a 1/2" higher in the front and it bugs the crap out of me! Anyone else experiencing this too? Suggestions? 2011 Edge Limited AWD w/ 20" OEM wheels Its because the front wheel well is bigger than the rear wheel well. It has a higher arch to allow more suspension travel due to the weight in the engine bay. All vehicles have larger front wheel wells for this purpose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drjoe Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 can it be that the 3.7 sport motor is bigger and heavier causing it to sit lower apposed to the 3.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendonA Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 For those of you who have a lowered Edge and drive in the winter do you ever run into ground clearance issues? I know that it looks like the Edge sits quite high but the lowest point is only about 7 inches from the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coucoui6 Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) any matching aftermarket dampeners (struts and shocks) on the market to match the shorter coils? Edited April 7, 2016 by coucoui6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
accordngs Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Installed the H&R lowering springs on Thursday. Took me just over 3 hours. Hardest part was the upper strut mounts under the hood, until I realized that the plastic windshield cowling comes off and the upper strut bolts then take about 10 seconds to remove. The lower bolts come off and the strut just slides right out past the rotor. Surprisingly little compression was needed to get the mount unbolted and swap the H&R springs in. Two man job reinstalling the struts - fit the bolts in their holes from the bottom and have a helper thread the nuts on from above to hold the unit in place while you line the bottom up and install the H&R triple C camber bolts! The rear springs are where I really made up time. The service manual would have you unbolt 8 or 9 things and remove the caliper, rotor, hub, and knuckle. I've attached pictures that prove that process unnecessary. Basically, just put enough pressure on the arm and spring to relieve the tension on the rear camber bolt and slowly remove the nut locking the adjuster in place , then move to the other side of the arm and spin the adjuster bolt all the way out of its hole. As long as pressure is maintained on the arm just under the spring, the bolt slides out and you slowly lower the jack and then swing the arm down, swap springs and reinstall the bolt and nut. Total time on BOTH rears was less that 40 minutes. Picture shows the rear camber bolt being backed out (after locking nut was removed from the opposite side) and the arm swinging down for the spring swap. Easy stuff... Gotta say thank you for this information. Installed my springs yesterday and this information on the rears likely saved me hours and avoided headaches. Took some finagling to get the correct pressure to allow the bolt to slide out but still way better than taking the entire rear brakes/suspension apart. I was able to do front and rear struts and springs in probably about 3 hours (likely less if I wasn't taking my time and small breaks). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVRDULL Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 IXIVI - I am about to put the springs on mine. Have they still remained quiet without the insulators on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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