How to eliminate (HYPER-FLASHING) without using load resistors? 2013 Edge Sport

[BlackEdition]

Hello everyone,

 

I recently received my new DAYTIMEBrightLites LED "Smoked" Taillights, plus the LED pack for all turn signals. Everything looks incredibly good (Thanks Dan! i'll be sure to email you a quick review with pics later on when I get this fixed).

I would really like to solve this hyper-flashing issue without using load resistors. Willing to pay whatever it takes! I just don't wanna use any load resistors but would also love to have the nice look of LEDs with normal operation.

 

The ones I have installed seems to work normally (no hyper-flashing) when all exterior lights are off, but whenever I turn on the headlights they start to hyper-flash. Since I usually have the lights on most of the time, this is no good for me.

According to Dan's website, those are 50W LED bulbs, so I thought why not look for higher wattage bulbs? this is where I need your help.

 

If you have any other ways or ideas to eliminate hyper-flashing (without the use of load resistors), please share them with us.

Edited May 1, 2014 by BlackEdition

[candurin]

Why the aversion to load resistors? Really easy to wire in. You can just use scotchloks and be done in a few minutes.

 

Or, you can use high-wattage LEDs, which should eliminate hyper flash. You can also purchase can-bus led bulbs that would solve the problem as well.

[BlackEdition]

Why the aversion to load resistors? Really easy to wire in. You can just use scotchloks and be done in a few minutes.

 

Or, you can use high-wattage LEDs, which should eliminate hyper flash. You can also purchase can-bus led bulbs that would solve the problem as well.

 

This is why I don't want load resistors:

 

1- They will void all my dealer warranties.

2- They produce too much heat for my comfort.

3- Not sure where to mount them, and don't want to drill anything.

 

That being said, can you please recommend me some high wattage LEDs?

 

BTW, I had CANBUS LEDs installed before, but they hyper-flash all the time, at least Dan's LEDs they only hyper-flash when the lights are on.

Those are the ones I had installed before:

Lumen® PL3157CA - PlaZma Series Front Turn Signal Replacement LED Bulb (3157, Amber)

 

Just to clarify: I had those installed on the front turn signals, but for the backs I installed these:

Lumen® 3157CA - Rear Turn Signal Replacement LED Bulb (3157 / 3757, Amber)

 

Could that be the reason they were hyper-flashing? since those 2 models are different.

[12Edge]

I hate to bring up the elephant in the room but if you are having a problem with "Dan's" light kit shouldn't you be talking to Dan?

[TheWizard]

1. There is nothing you can do (except maybe racing or commercial use such as a taxi) that will void your warranty. Vehicle modifications only affect warranty claims on the specific modified part. The worst that can happen is that the dealer can rightfully refuse to cover a specific repair under warranty if the problem was directly caused by the modification you made. But if that were the case, merely installing LED bulbs in place of the original incandescent ones would have the same impact, so load resistors make no difference to warranty.

 

2. Buy the load resistors that are encased in a heat sink housing rather than just plain Radio Shack resistors. They get a little warm but never hot enough to even make them uncomfortable to touch. Remember, they only come into play when the turn signals are active and that's only a 50% duty cycle.

 

3. The load resistors with heat sink housing have 2-sided tape so that you can mount them to any flat space under the hood or even behind the left kick panel completely out of the way. You can even get dual load resistors that will handle both side turn signals with one device for a clean minimal installation.

 

Load resistors are by far the best and most economical way to go since you already have your bulbs. If you hadn't bought the bulbs yet then I would suggest buying the CAN-BUS type which basically just have the load resistor already in their circuitry.

Edited February 14, 2014 by TheWizard

[BlackEdition]

I hate to bring up the elephant in the room but if you are having a problem with "Dan's" light kit shouldn't you be talking to Dan?

 

I contacted Dan before ordering those LEDs, he said 10% of Edge owners might face hyper-flashing with his LEDs. I guess im one of them?

Anyways, I don't want to return them since they look better than the ones I had before.

 

1. There is nothing you can do (except maybe racing or commercial use such as a taxi) that will void your warranty. Vehicle modifications only affect warranty claims on the specific modified part. The worst that can happen is that the dealer can rightfully refuse to cover a specific repair under warranty if the problem was directly caused by the modification you made. But if that were the case, merely installing LED bulbs in place of the original incandescent ones would have the same impact, so load resistors make no difference to warranty.

 

2. Buy the load resistors that are encased in a heat sink housing rather than just plain Radio Shack resistors. They get a little warm but never hot enough to even make them uncomfortable to touch. Remember, they only come into play when the turn signals are active and that's only a 50% duty cycle.

 

3. The load resistors with heat sink housing have 2-sided tape so that you can mount them to any flat space under the hood or even behind the left kick panel completely out of the way. You can even get dual load resistors that will handle both side turn signals with one device for a clean minimal installation.

 

Load resistors are by far the best and most economical way to go since you already have your bulbs. If you hadn't bought the bulbs yet then I would suggest buying the CAN-BUS type which basically just have the load resistor already in their circuitry.

 

Load resistors will be the last solution for me. Like I said before, I don't mind buying new bulbs that are guaranteed to work.

Could you please read my last post and reply to that? #3.

[12Edge]

 

I contacted Dan before ordering those LEDs, he said 10% of Edge owners might face hyper-flashing with his LEDs. I guess im one of them?

Anyways, I don't want to return them since they look better than the ones I had before.

 

 

Load resistors will be the last solution for me. Like I said before, I don't mind buying new bulbs that are guaranteed to work.

Could you please read my last post and reply to that? #3.

 

 

I am running these from different ebay sellers:

 

3157 Amber 50W:http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-OSRAM-CHIP-USA-AMBER-10-SMD-3157-DUAL-FILAMENTS-LED-LIGHT-BULBS-TAIL-SIGNAL-/221371455040?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338ac45640&vxp=mtr

3157 White 50W: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-50W-2X-JDM-10-SMD-OSRAM-CHIP-WHITE-3157-4157-DUAL-LED-LIGHT-BULB-TAIL-SIGNAL-/321318231792?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad00f1ef0

Backup Lights 30W: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-High-Power-T10-921-912-194-Xenon-Cree-XB-D-LED-Backup-Reverse-Light-Bulb-/290984985165?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c00e824d&vxp=mtr

 

No rapid flashing, no problems. I was trying to find the modifications post I made with pics before/after but I cant seem to now.

 

Add:

 

Found the post:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13442-comprehensive-mod-lists/?do=findComment&comment=105126

Edited February 14, 2014 by 12Edge

[BlackEdition]

 

 

I am running these from different ebay sellers:

 

3157 Amber 50W:http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-OSRAM-CHIP-USA-AMBER-10-SMD-3157-DUAL-FILAMENTS-LED-LIGHT-BULBS-TAIL-SIGNAL-/221371455040?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338ac45640&vxp=mtr

3157 White 50W: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-50W-2X-JDM-10-SMD-OSRAM-CHIP-WHITE-3157-4157-DUAL-LED-LIGHT-BULB-TAIL-SIGNAL-/321318231792?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad00f1ef0

Backup Lights 30W: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-High-Power-T10-921-912-194-Xenon-Cree-XB-D-LED-Backup-Reverse-Light-Bulb-/290984985165?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c00e824d&vxp=mtr

 

No rapid flashing, no problems. I was trying to find the modifications post I made with pics before/after but I cant seem to now.

 

Add:

 

Found the post:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13442-comprehensive-mod-lists/?do=findComment&comment=105126

 

I think those are the same ones that Dan is selling, check @ 1:13.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me-6NkEtFhk#t=74

 

Anyways, i'll check something tomorrow and get back to you guys. Thank you for your inputs.

[TheWizard]

 

Load resistors will be the last solution for me. Like I said before, I don't mind buying new bulbs that are guaranteed to work.

Could you please read my last post and reply to that? #3.

 

Sorry, I can't help with a bulb-only solution. I replaced all our turn signal bulbs front and rear with LED bulbs using load resistors and have never had a problem even when I run them with a strobe flasher for 8-9 hours at a time.

[12Edge]

Like I said they are 50Watts each for turn signals/breaks and no problems here. I have no idea what Dan is selling.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Maybe Dan's LEDs are TOO efficient? Do they actually pull 50W per bulb? Or do they have output equal to a 50W incandescent bulb? Anyway, unless you have a testing setup available, as already mentioned, best to ask Dan the Man.

[BlackEdition]

I just emailed Dan asking him to check this topic.

 

I was searching on eBay but I couldn't find anything higher than 50W, so I assume 50 watts are the maximum out there? I would like to buy what 12Edge sent me, but im not sure if they're the same ones Dan is selling (I already have them installed here).

[BlackEdition]

Should I get these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-Canbus-3357-4144-3157-Amber-Daytime-Running-Light-DRL-25W-CREE-High-Power-/171194657480?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dbff2ac8&vxp=mtr

 

Build-in CANBUS controller, and they seem a bit on the bright side.

I read somewhere that CANBUS bulbs are usually not that bright, but they are a solid solution to eliminate hyper-flashing. If that's true, then why were the LEDs I had before hyper-flash? could it be because the front & the rears were different models? (all of them had built-in CANBUS controller).

 

Can I re-install my two old CANBUS bulbs on either the front or the back and do the hyper-flash testing? would that work or do I have to install 4 bulbs?

[12Edge]

This isn't the best worded explanation of Canbus I have seen but give it a read to understand what it really is/does:

 

http://www.skeenway.com/auto-led-bulbs/what-is-new-can-bus-led-light.html

 

I know people think Canbus is the answer but it has less to do with power draw and more to do with control modules. It is also more prevalent in foreign expensive cars with a "bulb warning system"

[FarmerDave]

I am new to this forum and would like to add my two cents worth. Like BlackEdition, I just installed my amber front turn lights that I got from Dan at DaytimeBrightLights. I thought everything was OK and that somehow I had dodged the hyperflash bullet until I turned on the headlights. When those are on the signal lights go into hyper mode just like BlackEdition's. So add me to the list of the 10% I guess. The light Dan sells, I would guess to be one of the canbus lights, but to actually Google that bulb and learn more about it is damn near impossible. There just werent any identifying numbers on the card anywhere. I plan on contacting him soon and will verify this. I wouldnt imagine Dan has deliberately misled us on this, as he seems very knowledgeable and wanting to please his customers. Does make me wonder why he would expose himself to a possible 10% return request situation tho. I agree with those here who have stated that the canbus light should solve the hyperflash problem, but now we have at least two cases where it hasnt.

 

On the topic of hyperflash and the canbus solution, the thorough, but easily understandable explanation I've found online is this one:

http://ledchoice.eu/en/making-led-bulbs-can-bus-friendly.html

What I dont understand is why it's repeated so much that typically only expensive foreign cars use the canbus system and why fooling non-canbus vehicles with a canbus light is a big no-no. The "bulb out" error/warning in the Ford Edge is to hyperflash. Maybe technically the car doesnt have a true bonafide canbus circuitry, but the warning is tripped by the same mechanism - low resistance in the circuit. If the issue is the extra heat created by having that resistor internal to the bulb, I would ask this question: "Have you felt how hot your old stock incandescents get lately?" I swapped my brake lights out soon after they had been on awhile and darn near burned myself grabbing them. The plastic sockets are brown and burnt looking!

 

Like BlackEdition (BE), I really, really dont want to resort to the load resistor. I can understand his reasons, but mine are different. I simply dont want to disrupt the integrity of new wiring in my vehicle by "tapping" into it. Dan and I had this conversation by email awhile back about the tap that he and many others use for this purpose - the one with the little slotted metal plate that you squeeze on with pliers. Only my opinion here, but I believe clipping into a wire using this type of tap opens one up to a variety of failures that can happen down the road including wire fractures, corrosion, etc. I have found a different type of tap that seems less intrusive on the wiring. You can check it out here and decide if it's for you.

 

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

 

Perhaps this will make the job of installing load resistors more palateable for those who feel as I do. In reading TheWizard's post above, he seerms like he's been thru this. Please, Wizard, elaborate a little. Could you offer some suggestions as to specifically what locations, wiring junctures, etc. make good mounting areas for the load resistors when searching for that "minimalist" installation. I welcome suggestions. It would have to be in somewhat close proximity to where the turn signal wiring runs, wouldnt it?

 

Has anyone tried the other solution for the hyperflash dilemma - the flasher relay that is made for use with LEDs? I think I read somewhere that the Edge '11 and newer doesn't use the relay and the flash function is performed by the BCM, but I havent been able to verify this and I havent gotten a chance yet to slide under the dash and really look around for a relay.

 

Thanks all!

Edited March 1, 2014 by FarmerDave

[kwheel596]

I'm new to the forum as well but add me to the list as having just installed mine within the last week and having the hyper flash issue. I've temporarily solved the issue by only taking the new bulbs out of the front and having stock bulbs in the front for now but would still very much like a solution.

[TheWizard]

I have converted a half dozen cars and at least as many motorcycles from standard incandescent bulbs to LED replacements. In every case I used load equalizers because they are an easy-to-install and reliable solution to the hyper-flash issue.

 

For the Edge, I used dual load equalizers from Signal Dynamics because they simplify the wiring connections and are sealed within a waterproof heat sink housing. You need one for each pair of lights (i.e. one for front and another for rear). I could have installed both behind the left kick panel near the BCM but I only mounted the rear one there and put the front one below the left headlight. That was just for ease of installation - the wires are more accessible under the hood than in the harness behind the kick panel - but there is plenty of room for both behind the kick panel if you want a more stealth installation.

 

The dual load equalizer has three wires - purple, brown and black. The purple and brown wires each tap into one side turn signal circuit and the black goes to any good chassis ground. The box itself gets mounted to any flat surface using the included 2-sided tape. The wires you tap into near the BCM are: blue/green for left front, yellow/violet for right front, grey/orange for left rear, and green/orange for right rear. You will have to test the wires with a multimeter or test light because there are multiple wires of the same colors in that harness (that's why the fronts were easier near the lamps themselves but there is no space near the tail lights). The black wire gets a crimp-on ring terminal and is attached to the existing ground stud behind the kick panel.

 

There is no reason to fear using the ScotchLock type connector (the wire tap that you squeeze with pliers) - I have had them on my wife's bike since 1996 without ever having a problem. The Posi-Lock taps are nice but they are expensive and they still slice through the wire's insulation so they aren't necessarily any safer than ScotchLocks. If you want absolute reliability in a connection then solder and heat shrink tubing is the best way to go but not necessary for this type of connection.

 

It sounds like the front lamps are most often the source of the problem and that the higher power LED bulbs in the rear don't cause hyper-flashing. If that is true, then perhaps the best solution would be to install a dual load equalizer behind the kick panel for just the front lamps. That keeps all your connections inside and protected from the weather as well as being hidden from view.

 

It is not possible to simply change a flasher on any Ford model that has the electronic turn signal switch because there is no "flasher" in the traditional sense... the turn signals are controlled by the BCM. Even many older Ford models from the 90s and 00s did not have traditional 2-prong or 3-prong flashers but flasher modules that were vehicle specific. BTW, "turn signal flashers" are called just that - not "flasher relays" even though their internal function is much like a standard relay.

 

Of course you could always try using synthetic blinker fluid in place of the stock stuff: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=22&zenid=Uzr9XefyAGZ3dmKe,84JA0

Edited March 3, 2014 by TheWizard

[12Edge]

 

Of course you could always try using synthetic blinker fluid in place of the stock stuff: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=22&zenid=Uzr9XefyAGZ3dmKe,84JA0

Where does one install Blinker Fluid?

[FarmerDave]

Wow! What a detailed and thorough outline of a corrective course of action. Thank you, Wiz. I dont know about BlackEdition, but as for me, I feel much better mentally prepared to accept the load resistor solution after hearing how you handled it. Very helpful.

 

Seems as if these resistors must not put out the qty. of heat that some forum posters warn about. Hell, if theyre mounted with ds sticky tape as opposed to needing mounted with heat sinking in mind, how hot could they get?

 

I appreciate the insight on the PosiLocks. I have never used them myself, but have seen some of the videos at their website. One shows the wire after the connector has been undone and removed. True, the insulation was still pierced as it would have to be with any method of tap, but I still think the wire might retain more of its structural integrity by just being peirced by a small point rather than being completely cut straight across by the Scotch lock blade. Small point, I realize, but for the few connectors that would be necessary, the extra cost would sure be worth it to me.

 

Thanks again!

Edited March 3, 2014 by FarmerDave

[FarmerDave]

Where does one install Blinker Fluid?

I'm still searching for the drain plug so I can get rid of my stock stuff first.

[TheWizard]

Seems as if these resistors must not put out the qty. of heat that some forum posters warn about. Hell, if theyre mounted with ds sticky tape as opposed to needing mounted with heat sinking in mind, how hot could they get?

 

 

Load resistors do produce some heat that can be significant if you use just the resistors (like buying them from Radio Shack). In fact, they can produce enough heat in close quarters to melt wiring insulation. Basically, that's how resistors work - they convert electrical energy into heat. And that's why I didn't want to use ordinary resistors behind the Edge taillights in the limited space there (also why I didn't do that inside the plastic fairing of a Gold Wing).

 

The dual load equalizers I used (and some of the better single load equalizers) are built into a heat sink aluminum case with fins on the sides to dissipate the heat without the mounting surface getting hot so the 2-sided tape doesn't become a sticky mess.

 

[FarmerDave]

Has anyone ever tried this item? Seems like sizewise might be a lot to digest behind the rear lens, but the front should be no problem.

Description says it works on Ford Edge. (and Blinker Fluid free!) Or is a "decoder" different in function and not what we want? Just when I feel like Im learning all this new tech stuff, somebody throws a curve ball in there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-3157-LED-Bulbs-Warning-Error-Free-Canceler-Canbus-Decoder-Adapters-Kit-/321341156538?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad16cecba&vxp=mtr

 

Edited March 4, 2014 by FarmerDave

[joshj84]

Add me to the list of the 10%....

[pjsockett]

I haven't done anything with my turn signals yet but this was my plan if I had an issue. I also am not that comfortable with splicing into my factory wiring. Mainly I am looking for something that is easily reversible without leaving much of a trail behind.

 

I don't know if there is room for this solution on the taillights but it should work for the headlights and that sounds to be a greater issue. I plan to purchase a bulb extension and then add the resistor into that. That way I can just unplug the extension/resistor combo and be right back to stock quickly.

[BlackEdition]

Has anyone ever tried this item? Seems like sizewise might be a lot to digest behind the rear lens, but the front should be no problem.

Description says it works on Ford Edge. (and Blinker Fluid free!) Or is a "decoder" different in function and not what we want? Just when I feel like Im learning all this new tech stuff, somebody throws a curve ball in there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-3157-LED-Bulbs-Warning-Error-Free-Canceler-Canbus-Decoder-Adapters-Kit-/321341156538?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad16cecba&vxp=mtr

 

 

This looks interesting, does it actually work on our Edges? have you gave that a try yet?

Im sick of hyper-flashing at night when I have my DRL/headlights on.

 

It's not that expensive, I could buy it and see if it works, but it's a hassle for me since I live outside the US and it's going to take some time for the package to arrive here..So I prefer to wait and see if someone has found a solid solution that's guaranteed to work 100%.

Edited March 15, 2014 by BlackEdition