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Guest Message by DevFuse

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What to expect at 200,000+ miles

Suspension bearings tie rods lower control arms Ball joints struts Strut bearing mounts Rear shocks

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443 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 19 September 2014 - 02:30 PM

I just hope people don't think it is a lifetime fluid and think of extending the OC to 150,000 miles :)









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#22 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 08:00 AM

LOL Think if I just drive straight the power steering pump will last longer?   Anyway When the pump goes I will change out the original serpetine belt, yeah go figure, and the belt tensioner.  One last thing as of now both the replacement strut bearing mounts I bought from Orielly's auto parts have failed.  I changed out the right front one about a month ago and now the left front one has failed.  Guess I will step this failed one up to the more expensive one that I replaced in the right front. This means I am now on set number two after the original factory set.  Sad really as this is mostly highway driving and no real reason for them to fail other than the fact they are most likely cheap chinese parts.



#23 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 01:23 PM

Kinda hard to tell about quality nowadays even if you buy brand names.  Are you going to put Motorcraft on the left front?



#24 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 06:48 PM

Not sure of the brand.  I will just go with what the other replacement was.  Most of the time I just take it in and the shop fixes it as quick as they can since they know I will be hitting the road with it right after the repair.



#25 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 24 September 2014 - 05:40 AM

Ok, if you can find out, that would be great :)  And good luck on your upcoming trip, hope the HM oil works out.



#26 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 08:02 PM

Ok, if you can find out, that would be great :)  And good luck on your upcoming trip, hope the HM oil works out.

  Made the appointment to replace the drivers side strut bearing mount and found out the passenger side was a master pro part that failed and was replaced with a MOOG strut bearing mount.  I replaced almost every part of the suspension with MOOG parts except the strut bearing mounts.  Guess which parts are failing?  lol   Moral to the story I guess is do not buy master pro parts.   Stick with MOOG


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#27 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 01:32 PM

All done with drivers side strut bearing mount replacement.  Installed a MOOG replacement part. Had it done at garage and cost 240.00 dollars.   that being said cheap parts cost way to much.  Get the good stuff the first time.



#28 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 03:21 PM

Enjoy the ride, and good luck!



#29 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 08:40 PM

255,000 miles now and had my Gas Cap light turn on.  Went to autozone and 13 dollars later the light is off and have an new gas cap.  Wish all repairs were this cheap and fast.   Changed oil with second round of mobile 1 high mileage.  Could not find a leak per the mechanice since I drove in during a down pour of rain and the whole under carriage was essentially power washed.   Good news though after 5000 miles that 3.5 had only used half a quart of oil.   Think I will keep on trucking.



#30 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 09:29 PM

Great news!  Keep setting a record :)



#31 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 04:04 PM

Well the gas cap may not be the problem as the light has return and is on.  The next level indication is that the Evaporation tank is either leaking or the tank it's self has failed.  Not sure which at this point.  The next question is where is this tank located and it appears there is a seperate purge valve or something on it.  I am looking to replace it my self if the access is easy and up front unbolt and rebolt replacement.  Anyone know where it is located?



#32 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 06:59 PM

The EVAP  purge valve is located along the firewall, next to the brake fluid reservoir.  Most of the EVAP components though are underneath the vehicle, including the Canister and Canister Vent Solenoid.

 

 

Removal and Installation

 WARNING: The evaporative emission system contains fuel vapor and condensed fuel vapor. Although not present in large quantities, it still presents the danger of explosion or fire. Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery to minimize the possibility of an electrical spark occurring, which can cause a fire or explosion if fuel vapor or liquefied fuel are present in the area. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

 WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

 WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

  1. NOTE: Correct placement of the hoist arm to the frame lifting point is essential for the removal and installation of the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister assembly.

    With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove the 3 bolts, pushpin retainer and the evaporative emission (EVAP) shield.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
  1. Disconnect the EVAP canister vent solenoid electrical connector.
  1. Disconnect the 2 quick connect couplings from the EVAP canister assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .
  1. Disconnect the EVAP vapor tube from the EVAP dust separator.
  1. Remove the 3 EVAP canister assembly bracket bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
  1. Release the EVAP canister assembly pushpin retainer and remove the EVAP canister assembly.
  1. NOTE: When installing the EVAP canister assembly, insert the alignment tab into the body first, then install the pushpin and 3 bolts.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
    • Carry out the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle. For additional information, refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.

 

====================================================

 

Removal and Installation

 WARNING: The evaporative emission system contains fuel vapor and condensed fuel vapor. Although not present in large quantities, it still presents the danger of explosion or fire. Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery to minimize the possibility of an electrical spark occurring, which can cause a fire or explosion if fuel vapor or liquefied fuel are present in the area. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

 WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

 WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

  1. NOTE: Correct placement of the hoist arm to the frame lifting point is essential for the removal and installation of the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister assembly.

    With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove the 3 bolts, pushpin retainer and the evaporative emission (EVAP) shield.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
  1. Disconnect the EVAP canister vent solenoid electrical connector.
  1. Disconnect the 2 quick connect couplings from the EVAP canister assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .
  1. Disconnect the EVAP vapor tube from the EVAP dust separator.
  1. Remove the 3 EVAP canister assembly bracket bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
  1. Release the EVAP canister assembly pushpin retainer and remove the EVAP canister assembly.
  1. NOTE: When installing the EVAP canister assembly, insert the alignment tab into the body first, then install the pushpin and 3 bolts.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
    • Carry out the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle. For additional information, refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.

Attached Files


Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W, 20 October 2014 - 07:07 PM.

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#33 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 21 October 2014 - 06:16 AM

Thanks,  After a bit of searching and investigation.  I have mostly determined that the Purge valve has the highest probability of failure and is usually the first part to check and verify.  What do you think?



#34 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 21 October 2014 - 07:20 AM

The solenoid is what used to go bad on older vehicles (read 90's), have no idea on the valve itself.  Maybe pull off the hoses see if there is blockage?  Don't know if it could be cleaned out.



#35 OFFLINE   XB70

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Posted 21 October 2014 - 10:34 AM

Checking the solenoid is a good first step. But given the age and mileage on this vehicle there could be more than one problem. Scanner Danner's YouTube channel shows how he tracked down a solenoid problem. Neat way to figure it out but he's got all the right test equipment for this. Without all the test equipment like he uses I've had to resort to other means. Like using a spray bottle and water on every vacuum component I could physically get to while listening to changes in the engine idle speed.

 

Here's how he did it:

 

Having been down the road of inexpensive suspension parts (and their accompanying failures) you're absolutely correct in finding them to be no "bargains". 


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#36 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 07:47 PM

Thanks XB70, but you sound like my doctor when you start talking age and mileage.  :)



#37 OFFLINE   XB70

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 08:41 PM

Well my doctor reminds me that I've got a few years plus lots of miles on my ragged old carcass. At least with your Edge all the parts are replaceable.  :)

 

Looking at the body of your Edge tells me you don't spend much time on our lovely Iowa dirt roads. It looks in great shape. I work in a small town north of you and spend a lot of time on gravel. The work truck's rocker panels get pounded by the gravel. Rust sets in pretty quickly. Did you get the Edge undercoated?



#38 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 07:04 PM

XB70 no undercoating. Almost every mile is interstate. Passenger side a little dinged up from some guy that felt he want the lane I was in (he was given ticket number 21 when he hit me). I could not imagine having 21 tickets on my license.  Can hardly tell unless you look. Front end is a little off due to hitting a gator (truck retread). I have a dash cam and have a few videos of me missing bambi.  Only a matter of time till I get one. 


Edited by macbwt, 23 October 2014 - 07:07 PM.

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#39 OFFLINE   XB70

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 09:32 PM

With 21 tickets did this guy insurance?? Or a license??

 

In this part of the country there are only two kinds of cars. Those that have hit deer and those that will hit deer. My buddy in Wisconsin owns some auto body shops. He says the inside joke in the business is how much they enjoy grilled venison. In other words, venison in your grill. He scored twice with my cars.  

 

Being of the persuasion that I'll keep this new Edge for a while I splurged on the undercoating. Will it matter? When my Edge hits the odometer reading yours has then we'll compare notes. 

 

Did you get a chance to look into the problem with the evap system? While perusing through various YouTube channels I've come across some home made smoke generators. We may be driving cars with more computer technology than the first space shots but there are still some clever shade tree mechanics there.The man said "Smoke is smoke. It doesn't matter if it comes from a fancy machine or an old wine bottle full of charcoal." The idea is to just get smoke into the engine vacuum flow. And it worked.


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#40 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 01:03 PM

No idea how that guy could even still drive on the road?  Still have the question unanswered, but he had insurance!!  Did you notice the lack of Ford Edge repair videos?   I plan on doing an amatuer video of my replacement and posting it on my youtube.  I have asked my regular mechanic to do so, but he is shy or does not want his ex-wife to know where he is working (LOL).


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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Suspension, bearings, tie rods, lower control arms, Ball joints, struts, Strut bearing mounts, Rear shocks

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