J0J0 Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 While under my car doing regular maintenance and inspection, I saw how rusty the driveshaft has become in less than a year of ownership.I know grinding off the surface rust is a no-no because I can offset the balance. IF I spray some rust inhibitor to convert rust as well as prevent future rust from forming and then spray paint it black, do you think it will offset the balance of the driveshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwf78155 Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Get over it....its surface rust ! That drive shaft will last till long after you and I are dead and gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) Probably not, as long as you spray thin even coats each time, and don't add much mass to the driveshaft. You would want to be careful around any joints/hangers/bearings though, tape the heck out of them to prevent overspray. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1184854-drive-shaft-rust-treatment.html http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=86041 Edited April 2, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J0J0 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 I'll do it once I get the car back on the lift. It may be just surface rust but it bugs me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) Would bug the heck outta me too! Edited April 2, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J0J0 Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Would bug the heck outta me too! At last! I have proof for my wife that I'm not crazy. She told me to stop looking under the car. Kinda like when you say "Doc, it hurts when I do this with my arm" and the doctor just says "Then don't do it anymore." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) Every time I look at parts, I think first "Should I coat/paint them" then worry about fit Edited April 4, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 If you are that worried about the drive-shaft, what about the exhaust system? That is looking pretty rusty also. In other words, both are normal. The exhaust system will rust through eventually, but the drive-shaft will remain without getting much worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Just my view, but there are better things to do than worry about a little rust on a drive shaft. If I worried about rust on my 08 Edge I would be worried to death right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Still, if you want to fix it, you should know how. Same reason why the subframe on my SHO was painted before being put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J0J0 Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Exhaust will be changed, so I'm not worried about it. The drive shaft won't be changed. I know it's not important to most but for me, it's just an irritant knowing it's there. Since I will be moving to florida and will be very close to the Gulf, rust is an issue that if dealt with now, the car will last longer. At least I don't have to deal with road salt anymore. The car was run through and underbody wash consistently her in NY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordMan1977 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 JOJO.... I dont find it out if the ordinary too want to clean things up on the undercarrige. Photo of my 2013 Awd SEL suspension and exhaust. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 That's gorgeous, FordMan! DIY or OEM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordMan1977 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Thanks! Its a DIY job. A little off topic but here is my wheel well and brake rotor and caliper detail DIY job as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) I replaced the driveshaft last night on my wife's MKX - took about 40 minutes. The $200 replacement had more rust than the one I took off. I could have removed the rust and painted it before installing it. It was sitting on the garage floor for over a month, so I had plenty of time to clean it up. But, dealing with surface rust on a driveshaft is way too low on my list of priorities. Edited April 24, 2015 by Zazzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 I replaced the driveshaft last night on my wife's MKX - took about 40 minutes. The $200 replacement had more rust than the one I took off. I could have removed the rust and painted it before installing it. It was sitting on the garage floor for over a month, so I had plenty of time to clean it up. But, dealing with surface rust on a driveshaft is way too low on my list of priorities. May I ask why was the driveshaft replaced? What was the problem & was fixed? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) May I ask why was the driveshaft replaced? What was the problem & was fixed? Thanks. We have 2008 with the three piece driveshaft. Later model 2008's had a two piece driveshaft. The rubber on the 2nd bearing/u-joint support came apart. It was very noticeable on tight low speed left turns and sounded (and felt) like a CV joint was bad. I attached two photos of the torn rubber bearing support. I replaced it with the two piece driveshaft, which is a simple bolt-in. Edited April 25, 2015 by Zazzy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloria's edge Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I replaced the driveshaft last night on my wife's MKX - took about 40 minutes. The $200 replacement had more rust than the one I took off. I could have removed the rust and painted it before installing it. It was sitting on the garage floor for over a month, so I had plenty of time to clean it up. But, dealing with surface rust on a driveshaft is way too low on my list of priorities. Hello Did this take 40 minutes with the use of a lift? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Hello Did this take 40 minutes with the use of a lift? No, only 40 minutes sliding underneath the car on my back. If you use a lift, the time you save rotating the shaft to unbolt/bolt up will be spent putting it on the lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted August 11, 2021 Report Share Posted August 11, 2021 Hi Friends, today I removed the drive shaft, it has the same damage, the rubber bands of the outboard bearings are torn. I want to replace the outboard bearings, front and rear, and have already ordered them (Febest, they are the same as on the Mazda CX-9), but I don’t understand how to separate the three parts of the drive shaft for replacement, does anyone know how to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 12, 2021 Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=drive+shaft+bearing+replacement+ start here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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