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Loss of power of EDGE 2008. Help to understand to the colleague.


EDST777

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Guys, help me to understand, today after a stop on the traffic light I started gathering speed and to move forward, but felt loss of power, no other signs existed (usually report that there is a ring in a location of PTU and the key on the control panel lights up, by the way I have such situation with loss of power and a ring the same I was but, a year ago). I drove up to a roadside, stopped the car, transferred the selector to situation P, felt a push, further I stopped the engine. When I started the engine, continued the movement, power was restored and until the end of day I went without problems. Prompt, in what my problem? I read here on threads that there are different problems: problems with a butterfly valve, with PCM coils, with PTU, but what mine? I think that it is PTU problem because I had a similar problem a year ago (I wrote above, there was a loss of power and a ring around PTU, I also stopped the engine, then I started the engine and the problem disappeared). But guys, the problem floats, I want to understand it, I want to know its reasons, there can be someone to me will explain the reason of emergence of a problem for me in more detail, what to correct this problem thoroughly. This Ford model rare, very limited in my region and I can hope only for you. Thanks.

Edited by EDST777
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Did any check engine/service advancetrac lights/etc come on at that time? ODO ERROR message? Sounds like the PCM engaged failsafe mode. It is possible you have one or more bad wheel speed sensors and/or need TSS/OSS sensors for the transmission, depending on what the symptoms are exactly. Very unlikely it is a throttle body issue, since that seems to be a 2011+ problem, but could be.

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Did any check engine/service advancetrac lights/etc come on at that time? ODO ERROR message? Sounds like the PCM engaged failsafe mode. It is possible you have one or more bad wheel speed sensors and/or need TSS/OSS sensors for the transmission, depending on what the symptoms are exactly. Very unlikely it is a throttle body issue, since that seems to be a 2011+ problem, but could be.

This time I hurried and didn't look at the panel therefore I can't tell what there were messages of mistakes or they weren't, after restart of the engine no mistakes existed. What should I do now? To wait for the following problem or diagnostics of such malfunction is possible, whether will show something diagnostics at the dealer or it is useless? Thanks.

Ā 

p.s:Last time (a year ago), when there was a knock around PTU on the panel the wrench shone!

Edited by EDST777
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If you have an Android device, you can use Torque Pro to read codes in addition to monitoring performance. Torque Pro will use wifi OR bluetooth OBD adapters such as the VGate/iCar (wifi) device or the OBDLink MX (bluetooth). You can get them from Amazon or EBay. OBDLink is free software for the OBDLink devices only, it works with wifi/bluetooth also.

Ā 

If you have an iPad or iPhone or a Windows device, you can download ForScan, which is a tremendous tool for Ford applications. ForScan (windows) is free, ForScan Lite (iPad/iPhone/etc) is $5 I think. And iDevices use wifi ONLY, btw. Windows devices should be able to work with wifi and bluetooth, but cannot confirm at this time.

Ā 

I have used both applications successfully. If you want the doitall and are not worried about pretty GUIs, use ForScan. You will find the process enlightening.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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If you have an Android device, you can use Torque Pro to read codes in addition to monitoring performance. Torque Pro will use wifi OR bluetooth OBD adapters such as the VGate/iCar (wifi) device or the OBDLink MX (bluetooth). You can get them from Amazon or EBay. OBDLink is free software for the OBDLink devices only, it works with wifi/bluetooth also.

Ā 

If you have an iPad or iPhone or a Windows device, you can download ForScan, which is a tremendous tool for Ford applications. ForScan (windows) is free, ForScan Lite (iPad/iPhone/etc) is $5 I think. And iDevices use wifi ONLY, btw. Windows devices should be able to work with wifi and bluetooth, but cannot confirm at this time.

Ā 

I have used both applications successfully. If you want the doitall and are not worried about pretty GUIs, use ForScan. You will find the process enlightening.

Thanks! I have opportunity to use and Android and Windows. I found such devices: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Orange-Vgate-icar-M3-ELM327-OBD2-WiFi-Car-Diagnostic-Scan-For-PC-Smart-Phones-/271955264527?hash=item3f51cc040f and http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/2014-Vgate-iCar2-Vgate-icar-2-ELM327-OBD-OBDII-Wifi-ELM-327-Bluetooth-Car-Diagnostic/1632518862.html and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBDLink-MX-FREE-2-DAY-PRIORITY-SHIPPING-Bluetooth-OBD2-ii-module-by-ScanTool-/171202542101? hash=item27dc777a15 and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ScanTool-OBDLink-MX-Wi-Fi-OBD-II-Scan-Tool-Interface-/271929453505?hash=item3f50422bc1 , but I don't understand why they different in the price, whether there will be a distinction in a functionality of these devices if distinctions between these devices aren't present, I can select with the smallest price of shipment? What your judgement? Recommend to me. Thanks.

Edited by EDST777
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Avoid the OBDLink MX WiFi version. My experience has NOT been good with that unit. The Bluetooth version however is excellent.

Ā 

Prices are different due to higher sustained data rates with the OBDLink device, as well as ability to look at HSCAN and MSCAN data, which is something few devices can do. Other devices also burn out quickly with use, OBDLink lasts for a while. Difference in quality.

Ā 

So far so good with my experience with the iCar/VGate WiFi device though. Get the latest version (see latest on Amazon). Only thing I don't like about WiFi is that the devices stay on for up to 1/2 hour after the engine is turned off, so if you do use these things, be sure to remove from the OBD port when done.

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Avoid the OBDLink MX WiFi version. My experience has NOT been good with that unit. The Bluetooth version however is excellent.

Ā 

Prices are different due to higher sustained data rates with the OBDLink device, as well as ability to look at HSCAN and MSCAN data, which is something few devices can do. Other devices also burn out quickly with use, OBDLink lasts for a while. Difference in quality.

Ā 

So far so good with my experience with the iCar/VGate WiFi device though. Get the latest version (see latest on Amazon). Only thing I don't like about WiFi is that the devices stay on for up to 1/2 hour after the engine is turned off, so if you do use these things, be sure to remove from the OBD port when done.

Thanks. I am in what doubt the instrument to select. My candidates for purchase three devices: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBDLink-MX-FREE-2-DAY-PRIORITY-SHIPPING-Bluetooth-OBD2-ii-module-by-ScanTool-/171202542101?hash=item27dc777a15&item=171202542101&vxp=mtr, further http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Vgate-ICAR3-ELM327-Bluetooth-OBD-trip-computer/32340141144.html and wire http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/2015-new-ELM327-USB-FTDI-with-switch-HS-CAN-and-MS-CAN-car-diagnostic-cable-free/32357111152.html device. Please specify, whether everything devices can support MS CAN (Medium Speed CAN (Ford))? It is important for me because I have a hope to switch my AM/FM the receiver from a step of a step of scanning 0.2 (the American step of scanning on the European step of scanning 0.1). I would like to know that I will have such opportunity or not. What your judgement on switching of the ranges of the receiver, I will be able to make it such instrument? Thanks.

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OBD has nothing to do with your AM/FM/receiver setup. If the scanning step cannot be changed on the unit, then either a trip to the dealer is required, or a new unit must be installed.

Ā 

If the VGate iCar3 works as well as their Wifi cousins, that's what I'd go with. Not sure what the price difference is (conversion to US$). On Amazon, I see the price is around $35-$40, seems more economical.

Ā 

Here's a pretty good writeup of what to expect to get from the HSCAN and MSCAN buses:

http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/accessing-advanced-ford-pids-with-a-scan-tool.125933/

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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  • 2 weeks later...
Today approaching home, I again felt loss of power, no strangers, others sounds in the movement existed, I went and heard an easy rumble of PTU, not strong, it is possible to call it a bumblebee sound), or a sound from a wire under a high voltage. I looked at once at the control panel, there burned the key (shone), on the odometer no mistakes existed, I stopped. I transferred the selector to situation P and thus, I heard a strong push in a transmission or PTU when the selector passed situation R. I looked once again at the panel, there the key also burned, more mistakes weren't. I correctly look?

p/s: I ordered a cord of ELS 27 http://els27.ru/en-us/ODBII for viewing of mistakes the ForScan program, I wait for it shipment, but so far I can't watch a mistake through ODBII. What your thoughts, what to me still to make? So far I see only the shining key on panels, loss of power, breakthrough when switching the selector from situation D in situation P, when crossing situation R.

I will attach the image.Thanks.

post-16857-0-17207000-1440250505_thumb.jpg

Edited by EDST777
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  • 2 weeks later...
Hi guys. Last night I again received a problem, but now I showed the symptoms described at other children, for example as here exactly http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/3514-odo-data-error/.

I also had loss of power during movement, I lit a key on panel and a safety cushion, and also there was a text of "ODO ERROR", I will attach the image. I wait for the device for diagnostics, but so far it is shipped and I don't want to waste time. My question: if everything is confirmed what sensors are subject to changeover, whether I will be able independently to replace sensors? Thanks for any thoughts.

post-16857-0-17518000-1441261229_thumb.jpg

Edited by EDST777
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Unfortunately not), whether there is a changeover procedure somewhere? Whether draining of transmission oil is required? Two sensors TSS and OSS are subject to changeover? Thanks.

Ā 

Ā 

p.s: I already understood that removal of transmission liquid will be required. I found the replacement TSS/OSS procedure here http://www.justanswer.com/ford/58rly-change-output-speed-sonsor-08-ford-edge-awd.html , can be to someone will it is useful and here I see the jack isn't required? I didn't understand what requires a jack? I have a repair hole, it can be done and there? I am right?! I truly speak?

Edited by EDST777
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Friends. Physically the sensors TSS and OSS pro-wolves are a piece, and at first sight there is nothing to break, therefore at me as well as at many other people a question, why they such problem, in what a problem of their breakage and a failure in a transmission (wires are damaged, become covered by waste of oil or still something)? Somebody can give the comment. Thanks.

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By "repair hole" you mean a pit like the quick lube places (Jiffy Lube, Grease Monkey, etc.)? Yeah, that'd work fine. As to why the sensors fail, no idea. Though frankly, I'd rather replace sensors than power/drivetrains. In time/money terms these days, the same thing? Who knows what's better.

Ā 

I'd suspect (no basis to make this statement) that regular trans fluid changes (36K miles or max of 60K miles) would help keep the sensors working. Electronics are very sensitive to contamination, and probably what is happening here.

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Thanks. I understand that the sensor TSS absolutely same as OSS. It is correct? They are set in different places of transmission, only in it their distinction? Means to changeover of TSS and OSS to me it is necessary to buy two identical sensors, for example here http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2067396&cc=1441679&jnid=674&jpid=1 .I am right?

P.s:when I spoke " repair hole" meant - Inspection pit

post-16857-0-53347400-1441367353_thumb.jpg

Edited by EDST777
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Friends, when replacing the OSS sensor in procedure (a step 10) it is specified:
  1. NOTE: The coolant hoses do not need to be removed from the engine.

    Remove the coolant hoses from the transmission fluid filler tube and position aside.
Whether my question: needs to be deleted cooling liquid? I think to pump out through a broad tank before separating hoses which are specified on the image. What your opinion?

post-16857-0-59251400-1441556849_thumb.jpg

Edited by EDST777
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