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2007 AWD suspension refresh - help with parts


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36 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 08:55 AM

I mentioned this was coming, but it's time now.  Here is what I am looking at and would appreciate someone letting me know if I am missing something:

 

Ford:

  • Stabilizer Bar Bushing - front.  Part number 7T4Z05484-A.  $10.09.  I assume you are buying one; they aren't packaged as two.
  • Stabilizer Bar bushing - rear.  Part Number 7T4Z-5493-AA.  $4.97.  I assume you are buying one; they aren't package as two.
  • Lower Seat for front spring - part number 7T4Z-5A307-A.  $16.61.  Need two.
  • Bumper for front strut - part number 8T4Z-18198-A.  $5.05.  Need two. 

 

Rock Auto:

  • KYB Shock - 349068 GR-2.  $79.58 for two, total.
  • Stabilizer bar link - REAR.  MOOG K750184.  $83.98 for two, total.
  • Motorcraft Strut - AST868 for the LEFT.  AST867 for the RIGHT.  $164.68, total.
  • Motorcraft Strut mount - AD1050 - need two.  $65.58 for two, total.

 

I want to be sure there aren't quirks with the AWD as it relates to the sway bar bushings.  I didn't see any notes.  Thoughts?  Also, the front stab links were replaced with Moog parts a few months ago, which is why they are not listed above.

 

Any thoughts on using another brand of struts and strut mounts in the front? 

 

I'm into this for $468.  I found an ASE certified mechanic that will do this "on the side" for $350, cash.  I'm considering paying him as I know it will take me a day and a half to do it myself.  His rate seems very, very good.

 

Anything I've missed, or I should add?  The AWD is what throws me just a bit.  Rock Auto doesn't even recognize it, so I want to be sure I have the right parts.  Should ride like new after all of this.  Currently has 110k on the clock and we plan to drive it another 3 years, at least as we average

Thanks,
Shumax









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#2 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 09:25 AM

Does the AWD have a rear stabilizer bar?  IDK.  May not need bushing or end links if so.

 

Sachs is usually OEM for Ford, that may work better than Motorcraft, but Motorcraft should be a solid choice.



#3 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 11:05 AM

Thanks.  Yes, the AWD does have a rear sway bar/links/bushing.  I looked underneath just to be sure. ;)

 


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#4 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 02:22 PM

It all looks good.  Just be sure to check those ball joints out while you are tearing it apart.  If you have to replace the LCA/Ball joint then get all new bolts (DO NOT USE THE OLD ONES).



#5 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 27 September 2015 - 05:34 PM

Macbwt, didn't you saw you were embarking on this quest, too, on one of your newer Edges?

Shumax



#6 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 27 September 2015 - 08:19 PM

Not yet.  I however have the parts already purchased (learned from experience) I however am going to be replacing the front struts possibly next month.  The rear shocks as soon as I can find the time to take Lullubelle off the road for a part of a day.   Unfortunately I have been tied up with a 22hp Kohler riding mower that just threw a connecting rod and destroyed its self.



#7 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 05 December 2015 - 09:37 AM

Update:

 

So, I sourced all the above parts for $591 delivered to my house.  I have someone willing to put them all in for $350.  My question?

The car has 113,000 miles on it.  There is one area of road that I drive over every day where I get a "pop" high in the front end.  I suspect the strut bearings given I replaced the front sway bar links already.  Other than that, the car is generally quiet over uneven surfaces.  I can tell it floats a bit, probably more than I think in all actuality.  There is no uneven wear on any of the tires from worn parts, either.   

 

My concern is this:  I live by the "if it's not broken, don't fix it" rule.  Nothing is really "broken," per se.  So, I'm starting to second guess pouring nearly $1k into the suspension.  My fear is that it will make "something" worse.  What that "something" is, I don't know.  :)  I've had cars before where I replace suspension parts and suddenly another part is faulty as a result of the new part being stronger and stressing the other older part. 

 

I have held off on this "refresh" since the summer as I knew I would get it aligned when I put the snow tires on, which will happen in another week or two.  So, here I am - two weeks out from snow tires and an alignment and I'm thinking it through.  If all I get is a knock, as described, do you just replace the front struts, have it aligned with the snow tire installation and move on?  Or, do you have everything done since you are "in there" and save on the alignment needing to be done again?

 

113,000 miles and we plan to keep it another 3 years and we average 10k a year. 

 

Debate away... :)

Shumax



#8 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 05 December 2015 - 02:06 PM

IMO opinion you could get away with just replacing the struts.  Check the ball joints to ensure they are sound.  You may need the new sway bar links as sometimes they do not cooperate and end up getting cut off.   Other than that you would be good to go.  I have never replaced the spring rubber seats and just reused them unless they are bad.   I am getting ready to replace the struts and sway bar links on my 2011 and that is all I am replacing.  You will appreciate the better ride the new struts provide. I have been down that road before and new struts are soooooo nice!!!



#9 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 05 December 2015 - 07:57 PM

Glad you responded, Mac. 

The front has newer MOOG sway bar links - they probably have 4k of use on them.  So, I would hope they can be used again - no?  Doing just the front struts and strut mounts takes my parts total to around $220, plus shipping.  I would suspect I can have those installed for $175.  So, I'm into it for around $400.  Wonder what LCA's go for - loaded with the ball joint already in them? 

 

I've seen you replace the rear shocks a few times - seems like maybe you got 50-75k out of a set?  Given that, I guess I'm surprised to hear you suggest not replacing them given 113k on the vehicle.  Am I reading that wrong?

 

The sway bar BUSHINGS (front & rear) are not pricey - $40 for all four. 

 

Maybe I do that - replace the front struts and strut mounts along with the front sway bar bushings and call it a day.  I'd have just over $400 into that, I would think.  That's where the noise is anyway.  I could always have the rear done at a later time, if needed.

Shumax


Edited by shumax, 05 December 2015 - 07:57 PM.


#10 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 05 December 2015 - 11:41 PM

If the rear shocks are at 100K or more definitely replace them as it will save your tires.  I missed the part about your rear shocks.

 

A Moog sway bar link should give you no problems to pull them off as they have a better design than the OEM.

 

Yes I did have a set of rears go out on me one KYB was leaking and I replaced both.   In all the miles I have driven I have never had to replace sway bar bushings. The only reason you would do this is if you drive canyon walls like WWW.

 

Moog sells the LCA's for about 70-80 dollars on Amazon etc. A genuine ford LCA goes for 230.00 each.  In my experience it will always be the ball joint that fails and have never had bushings in the LCA fail.  You can by the new press in ball joints for from Moog for about 25 dollars, but it takes almost as much effort to remove the ball  joint as it does to remove  and replace the LCA.  Getting to the ball joint to press it out almost requires you to remove the LCA.  This problem makes it easier just to replace the whole thing.  If you do replace the LCA watch on the video and purchase all new bolts or you will be like me cussing and using a saws all to remove it.


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#11 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 06 December 2015 - 07:11 AM

MAC, thanks again for the reply.  I've decided to move forward with all of it.  I've actually had sway bar bushings go bad on a Fusion and an Explorer.  Led to a knocking of the bar against the metal mount - hard to miss!  Since they are inexpensive, and the labor wasn't much, I'm going to have them done since they will be "in there." 

I've tested the ball joints this summer by jacking the car up by the frame and control arm and then sticking a long iron bar under the tire.  There was no play.  So, I assume they are fine.  Is there another way to test them?  I've had those go bad on an Explorer, too, and it led to a nasty vibration that came and went.  If they need replaced, I'll buy the MOOG LCA's and be done with it.  I'll also be sure to get the bolts as I did see your video on that - looked painful. 

 

Thanks again for the direction.

Shumax



#12 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 06 December 2015 - 07:48 AM

There is a lot of logic and financial sense to do a complete job rather than part of it.  I actually have a right side LCA sitting in my basement waiting for the day to install it.  I seemed to go through right side LCA's faster.  Maybe I should stop running off the road and hitting curbs when I turn.LOL  My experience with testing a ball joint is exactly as you did your test.  I believe my video even shows the testing of the ball joint, but maybe not.  Symptoms while driving are the wheel feels sloppy and causes the car to drift left or right.   Enjoy the new suspension.



#13 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 18 December 2015 - 02:06 PM

Ended up needing new control arms.  Got the MOOG parts on order from Rock Auto.  RK620487 and 486 for $143.72 shipped.  Get here Wednesday.  Also bought the bolts - hope they are correct!?  W712734-S439 and W712850-S439.  Two of the first and four of the second since I have both arms to do.  Bolts cost me $15 from my local dealer; here Monday.

 

I sure hope this all goes in without much of an issue.  The last thing I want is $1k in parts and then have it be nothing but silent and smooth! :) 

They are doing the struts, front and rear sway bar bushings and the rear shocks and rear stab links today.  Front stab links were done in June of this year, so I'm not replacing them again.  I'll have to drive it a week without the alignment done as I'll go back when the control arms are in to have those replaced.  Align after that.  Hopefully it doesn't eat my tires in a week - probably only put a hundred miles on in that time...

 

Shumax


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#14 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 18 December 2015 - 09:06 PM

Talk about a refresh.  You should appreciate the new handling and ride.  I did.



#15 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 19 December 2015 - 06:34 AM

Any idea if those are the correct bolts, for sure? :) 

 

Much to my surprise, the arms should arrive later today, according to FedEx.  Wow!  Now, I am faced with a choice - wait for the bolts to arrive on Monday late afternoon and do the work Tuesday?  Or, chance it and see if they fit.  :)

 

I found conflicting information on the net about the OEM bolts not fitting the welded on nuts located on the arms, so my gut tells me I should wait and see if they thread in.  Otherwise, they will tear the car apart and then find out. 

 

Having said that, it would be nice to get the car back, snow tires on, aligned and back on the road for my wife. 

Shumax



#16 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 19 December 2015 - 08:15 AM

The only reason the bolts would not fit or thread is they bought the wrong bolts.  If you bought the bolts from a Dealer and are OEM they should fit.  I would wait until they arrive. Then do the work.  This way you have the new bolts and in your mind if and on the off chance they do not work yo will have the old ones to reuse.  Then later you can install the new bolts one at a time without having to disassemble or just leave it.  Depending on the rust of course. Mine as you saw in the video were pretty rusted and unusable.



#17 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 19 December 2015 - 08:36 AM

That's the plan! Bolts arrive Monday around 2pm. Those and the arms go in Monday night/Tuesday. Align it Wednesday. Parts totaled around $650. Labor was $450. Alignment is $49. That's a chunk of change, for darn sure. Especially this time of the year. BUT, it should ride like a new car. Has newer tires, plugs and coolant are done. Maintenance is set now for the rest of its life with us. Has 113,500 on it now and want to see 160,000 (3-5 years) before we buy a slightly used one to repeat the process. :)

The only thing I worry about is the body starting to rot out.

Thanks again!
Shumax

#18 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 19 December 2015 - 12:07 PM

Another thought - should I race right up and have the alignment done, or drive it 100 miles and let it settle?

Shumax

#19 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 19 December 2015 - 02:11 PM

Install the parts & have the alignment done right after.  Have the alignment re-checked after a couple of weeks.  Although experienced techs can get alignment pretty close by eyeballing the setup, you as a driver will likely not be happy with that setup, and start causing unnecessary wear.  No point in that!


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#20 OFFLINE   shumax

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Posted 22 December 2015 - 07:47 PM

Picked the Edge up today.  Wow!  It's so much quieter on the road and over rough surfaces.  Also feels far more planted and does not float around at speed.  He didn't end up replacing the sway bar bushings as he said they looked new and it would be a waste.  So, I can return those and collect $30 back.  All in, I had $742 in parts, including the two new Moog LCA's.  Labor was $450.  So, just under $1,200 and it's completely refreshed. 

 

The only issue I ran into was a slight wobble in the steering wheel.  If I let go of it around 45-60mph, it slightly wobbles.  It wasn't doing that when I took it in.  Also, I swapped the snow tires on it and it was still doing it.  It's very slight.  Normally I would suspect a tire/wheel that's not balanced, but swapping the snow tires on eliminates that theory.  Perhaps it goes away as it settles, or with the alignment?  Any thoughts on that?

Shumax






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