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2015 Ford Edge Engines: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know


Chipster

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@Vadimus,

Might have been a mid 2015 model change that was reflected as a new feature for 2016. Here are the specs for a March build Titanium with 301/302 package:

Minor Features


• Medium Soft Ceramic
• Roof Conv-Panorama Pwr/Open
• With Standard "B" Pillar Trim
• Less Rear Mudflaps
• Frt Scuff Plates-Illumin With Logo
• Less Front Mudflaps
• With Hill Launch Assist
• Rear Passenger Door
• My Key
• Less Luggage Compartment Mat
• With Power Liftgate
• Oakville Plant Build
• Titanium Badge
• Less Electronic Group
• Less Dress Up RSO
• Less Hot Weather Group
• Exterior Paint - Solid
• Less Utility Package
• Less VP Application Label
• With English Language Label
• Owner Hand Book Pack
• Less Water Wading Equipment
• Equipment Package 8
• Less Outbound Modification Cnt
• Less Fire Extinguisher Fixings
• Less Tyre Repair Service Kit
• "A" Pillar Molded Trim
• "C" Pillar Molded Trim
• Power Front Windows One Touch Up/Do
• Less Rear Side Window
• With Fixed Rear Vent Quarter Window
• With Privacy Glass
Windows-Front Sd Tempered Glass
• With Laminated Windscreen
• Less Heated Windscreen
• With Heated Rear Window
• Less Console Ashtray
• With Locking Glove Box Lid
• Mini Overhead Cnsl W/Sunglass Bin
• Console - With Closed Bin
• Cup Holders (2) - Row 1
• Less Floor Mat Kit
• Fixed Foot Pedals
• Interior Trim Accent Pack L
• Front Floor Carpet Mats
• Rear Floor Carpet Mats
• Less Sun Blinds
• With Cloth Headlining
• Sliding Rod Illum Sun Visor-Driver
• Sliding Rod Illum Sun Visor - Pass
• With Level 4 Door Trim Panel
• With Level 1 Quarter Trim Panel
• Less Luggage Compartment Net Kit
• Cargo Area Management System 2
• With Load Space Tie Down Loop
• With Load Retention Net
• Less Load Area Protection Kit
• With Cargo Area Mgmt System Level 1
• Less Luggage Compartment Cover
• Sound Insulation Pack-Level 4
• Less Interior Partition
• Grille-Lower Surround Mold In Clr
• Active Grilleshutter
• Less Roof Rack
• With Bright Door Frame Moulding
• Lower B/S Mldg-Monochro-Black
• With Single Rear Wing Spoiler
• Electric Operated Rear View Mirror
• Dual Mirror Pwr/Htd/Mem/Fold/Lamp
• With Body Coloured Exterior Mirror
• 5 Door SAV
• With Driver Seat Back Map Pocket
• Passenger Seat Back Map Pocket
• Less Passenger Seat Cushion Ext
• With Front 4 Way Headrest
• With Electric Driver Seat Recliner
• With Electric Pass.Seat Recliner
• Less Tray/Table - Front Seat
• With 60:40 Split - Folding Rr Seat
• 2 Way Rear Headrestraint- Lvl II
• Less Rear Sliding Seat
• With Rear Center Head Restraint
• With Manual Rear Seat Recliner
• Lumbar Seat - 2 Way Driver
• With Passenger Power Lumbar Support
• Less Multi - Contour Seats
• Less Under Seat Stowage - Driver
• Less Under Seat Stowage-Passenger
• Driver Heated Seat-Variable Temp
• With Heated Pass Seat-Variable Temp
• Less Rear Heated Seat
• With Seat Belt Warning Chime
• 2nd Row Seat 60/40 (3 P) - Folding
• Less 3rd Row Rear Seat
• Drv Power Seat Adjust With Memory
• With Pass 8 Way Power Seat Adjuster
• Less Trailer Towing
• Less Trailer Coupling
• Less Front Towing Hook
• Less Rear Towing Hooks
• Ext Hndl-Body Colour/Chrome Insert
• With Leather Gear Shift Knob
• Automatic Gearshift
• Frequency - 315MHZ
• Power Door Lock With Elec Release
• With Illuminated Door Entry Keypad
• Keyless Entry/Start/Tailgate
• Capless Fuel Filler Without Lock
• With Dual Rear Window Wiper/Washer
• With Variable Intermittent Windscreen Wiper
• Less Heated Washer Jet
• Less Headlamp Washer/Wiper
• Less U/Body Corrosion Protect
• Less Front Bumper Sensor Device
• Front Bumper - Mic Black
• Body Contrast Colour Rear Bumper
• Less Front License Plate Bracket
• Belt D & P Fr 1 & 2 Row/D Kne Bag
• Less Air Curtain Restraint
• Less Rear Side Air Bag Restraint
• Less Rr Seat Belt Pre-Tensioner
• Less Inflatable Knee Bolster Driver
• Less Rear Seat Belts
• Less Driver Air Bag
• Less Passenger Air Bag
• Less Side Air Bag - Drivers Side
• Less Side Air Bag - Passenger Side
• Less Passenger Air Bag Deactivation
• With Isofix Hard Point Attachment
• With Manual Adjust Frt.S.Belt Mount
• Seat Belt Pretensioners Drv/Pass
• Seatbelt Lock Retraction-Emergency
• 17" Mini Steel Spare Wheel
• Tyre Pressure Sensors - 315 MHZ
• With Standard Rear Shock Absorbers
• 8 X 19 Prem Painted Aluminium Wheel
• 245/55R19 A/S V-Rated II
• T155/70R17 110M Spare Tyre
• Less Wheel Covers
• Non Locking Lug Nuts
• Less Preprogrammed Speed Limit
• Cold Start -15 Deg C
• Less Immersion Heater
• Standard Electric Starter Motor
• Less Remote Starter
• With 49 State/Non Green State Req
• Emission Compliance - USA
• With Standard Suspension
• With Front Stabilizer Bar
• With Rear Stablizer Bar
• 3.36
• 2.0L EcoBoost (250PS)
• Dual Exhaust
• With Bright Exhaust Extension
• With Electric Parking Brake
• With 17" Front Vented & Solid Rear
• Less Collision Mitigation System
• With Brake Emergency Assist
• Normal Fuel Fill
• Select Shift Tech (SST) W/Pad Shift
• With Clean Fuel Fleet Vehicle
• Less Fuel Water Separator
• For Unleaded Fuel
• With 91 Octane Level Gasoline
• Standard Foot Pedal Pad Design
• With Electric Power Steering
• With Manual Tilt/Slide Stg Column
• Less Steering Column Lock
• Leather Steering Wheel
• Less Heated Steering Wheel
• Less Electronic Speed Limitation
• With Speed Control
• Less Spd Control Distance Sensing
• Less Auxiliary Heater
• 6-Speed Automatic - 6F Mid-Range
• Edge 2015-
• Series 60

 

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I test drove 2.0 EB and 3.5 V6 Edge. I have owned turbo cars before and maintenance gets expensive after the KM's racked up. I would advice people buying the EB version to get the extended warranty. Turbo engines go through kinda torture internally and make sure to do the oil changes on time.

I bought the V6 AWD. Personally I felt 2.0 was trying too hard to give the power/acceleration so wasn't smooth. V6 sounds and is a much more smoother ride.

Only thing I am pissed off about is unable to find Cheap Winter Rims for the 2015.

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@Vadimus,

 

Might have been a mid 2015 model change that was reflected as a new feature for 2016. Here are the specs for a March build Titanium with 301/302 package:

 

 

Mine's April so more likely it's Titanium vs Sport. Or maybe the market matter -did you import yours from the States, or they're being sold in Qatar already?

Actually even US vs Canadian trim levels are a bit different.

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We still didn't receive the new Edge. We'll probably going to get it as a 2016, skipping 2015 all together. I have a 2011 MKX which I'm seriously considering to trade up (or down?) to the 2016 Edge Sport. Still waiting for it to be launched here & know the final prices. Usually they really mark them up considerably.

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I test drove 2.0 EB and 3.5 V6 Edge. I have owned turbo cars before and maintenance gets expensive after the KM's racked up. I would advice people buying the EB version to get the extended warranty. Turbo engines go through kinda torture internally and make sure to do the oil changes on time.

I bought the V6 AWD. Personally I felt 2.0 was trying too hard to give the power/acceleration so wasn't smooth. V6 sounds and is a much more smoother ride.

Only thing I am pissed off about is unable to find Cheap Winter Rims for the 2015.

 

 

 

Turbo charged cars of the past (more than 10yrs ago) did suffer some from higher maintenance cost, but that was not until well after 100k miles. This was usually the result of not maintaining the fuel and cooling systems correctly. Routine maintenance is not different. It is important no matter whether it is normally aspirated or force inducted. I trust today's force inducted engines more than ever as they are taking all of the experience learned with diesel engines and applying that to the engines. Diesel engines run for well over 300k miles and are tortured getting there. Also, I would not buy an extended warranty unless you intend to keep the vehicle well past 60k miles. You will be wasting your money on something you will most likely never use. If you understand one of the key concepts around reliability following the Bathtub Curve, you will notice that once you get past "Infant Mortality" the chance a failure will occur goes down significantly. The car has a 3yr 36k mileage bumper to bumper / 5yr 60k mileage powertrain warranty that will get you well past that region. Then you fall into the "Useful Life" portion which relies heavily on timely, correct preventative maintenance (routine inspection, cleaning, and service). My education and experience (I am a Reliability Engineer) have taught me that the majority of extended warranties are a waste of money and simply not needed. With all of this said, have I bought an extended warranty before? Absolutely!!! If I thought I was going to use something much harder than what the typical use would be or if I was going to stretch the boundaries of typical use, then I bought an extended warranty. I doubt any of us will stretch the boundaries of use or even get close to what Ford did from a testing perspective.

So now for a quick response to a question I'm sure someone will say or ask "why do cars break down then?', if you are saying that the likely hood is low. Simple, we cannot underestimate the human factor that go into building and maintaining these machines. Infant mortality failures are largely due to design, installation, service and operation. This is simply not the time the vehicle is new, it occurs every time you have the vehicle serviced or repaired. So the best thing we can do is get educated on how to routinely inspect and clean our vehicles.

Note:

There will always be out layers to this methodology as there is with everything in life, so do what you think is best for yourself. If getting an extended warranty makes you feel better then by all means do so. You cannot underestimate the power of your own internal psychology.

Edited by chicagoslick
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I think the question should be, "How dependent am I on this vehicle?" If you say "Very", then ask, "Am I able to fix the vehicle myself if something goes wrong? Do I have the spare time to diagnose & repair?" If "No", then an extended warranty is likely for you.

 

But usually, with good preventive maintenance practices, conservative driving habits, and ignoring the "lifetime" marketing blurbs, one can do pretty well without an extended warranty. Always read the maintenance section of the OM, especially what is recommended for SEVERE DUTY schedules.

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I think the question should be, "How dependent am I on this vehicle?" If you say "Very", then ask, "Am I able to fix the vehicle myself if something goes wrong? Do I have the spare time to diagnose & repair?" If "No", then an extended warranty is likely for you.

 

But usually, with good preventive maintenance practices, conservative driving habits, and ignoring the "lifetime" marketing blurbs, one can do pretty well without an extended warranty. Always read the maintenance section of the OM, especially what is recommended for SEVERE DUTY schedules.

We have talked a bit about DI motors and the possibility of them becoming problematic later in life due to valve coking. A lot of folks insist that "catch cans" are the best solution to reducing the amount of oil vapor that is injested into a DI motor. I suppose we can argue the point as to whether a Eco motor is going to be more reliable than the 3.5 (w/ a throttle body), but I believe the 3.5 will be, in spite of the reported need for reprogramming of the ecu for the throttle body that are still being seen in the 2015 Edge. I found this video and thought it did a good job of talking about the valve deposit buildup in the Eco-boost motors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ynGWxzJHjA

2nd video added

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nK2eXdaydqI

Edited by Chipster
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Turbo charged cars of the past (more than 10yrs ago) did suffer some from higher maintenance cost, but that was not until well after 100k miles. This was usually the result of not maintaining the fuel and cooling systems correctly. Routine maintenance is not different. It is important no matter whether it is normally aspirated or force inducted. I trust today's force inducted engines more than ever as they are taking all of the experience learned with diesel engines and applying that to the engines. Diesel engines run for well over 300k miles and are tortured getting there. Also, I would not buy an extended warranty unless you intend to keep the vehicle well past 60k miles. You will be wasting your money on something you will most likely never use. If you understand one of the key concepts around reliability following the Bathtub Curve, you will notice that once you get past "Infant Mortality" the chance a failure will occur goes down significantly. The car has a 3yr 36k mileage bumper to bumper / 5yr 60k mileage powertrain warranty that will get you well past that region. Then you fall into the "Useful Life" portion which relies heavily on timely, correct preventative maintenance (routine inspection, cleaning, and service). My education and experience (I am a Reliability Engineer) have taught me that the majority of extended warranties are a waste of money and simply not needed. With all of this said, have I bought an extended warranty before? Absolutely!!! If I thought I was going to use something much harder than what the typical use would be or if I was going to stretch the boundaries of typical use, then I bought an extended warranty. I doubt any of us will stretch the boundaries of use or even get close to what Ford did from a testing perspective.

 

So now for a quick response to a question I'm sure someone will say or ask "why do cars break down then?', if you are saying that the likely hood is low. Simple, we cannot underestimate the human factor that go into building and maintaining these machines. Infant mortality failures are largely due to design, installation, service and operation. This is simply not the time the vehicle is new, it occurs every time you have the vehicle serviced or repaired. So the best thing we can do is get educated on how to routinely inspect and clean our vehicles.

 

Note:

There will always be out layers to this methodology as there is with everything in life, so do what you think is best for yourself. If getting an extended warranty makes you feel better then by all means do so. You cannot underestimate the power of your own internal psychology.

Well I had bad experience with newer turbo vehicles actually- Acura RDX and a 2012 Mitsubishi Ralliart. You can call it my luck :) I am not mechanically inclined but I make sure all maintenance is done as per the service manual. I drive about 30000 KM's a year usually. I am thinking of keeping this Ford Edge for about 6-7 years. So I opted for V6.

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My '96 F-250 I ordered out and waited 13 weeks for had the extremely reliable International 7.3L direct injected turbocharged engine. It has over 300,000 miles on it and still runs like new.

 

My daily driver is a 2006 Volvo S-40 with the 2.5L inline 5 turbo engine, actually similar to the 2.0L EcoBoost except it has a 5th cylinder and a lower pressure turbo system, only about 10 psi so 218 HP. It has had a couple minor problems fixed under warrantee but has been trouble-free the last 90,000 miles.

 

Both my turbocharged vehicles get oil & filter changes slightly sooner than the manuals recommend, the F-250 at 3000 miles, Volvo at 5000 miles.

 

I'm not sure how many THOUSANDS of hours I've run turbocharged diesel engines but it's lots and lots! Turbo's on diesels at least are very reliable.

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Well I had bad experience with newer turbo vehicles actually- Acura RDX and a 2012 Mitsubishi Ralliart. You can call it my luck :) I am not mechanically inclined but I make sure all maintenance is done as per the service manual. I drive about 30000 KM's a year usually. I am thinking of keeping this Ford Edge for about 6-7 years. So I opted for V6.

 

I too have had bad experiences, but I chalk those up to being the out layers. For the most part extended warranties are a waste, but like I said earlier this has to be judged by each person. I would never fault anyone for buying one.

 

Note: Having problems with a Mitsubishi does not surprise me as they have had a tough time for awhile now with their diminishing market share, but surprised with the Acura as Honda has had a good track record with reliability. Again, I would chalk this up to the out layers.

 

Best of luck everyone...

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Having problems with a Mitsubishi does not surprise me as they have had a tough time for awhile now with their diminishing market share

Quite opposite. We have a huge Evo and Ralliart community here, and while some issues are well-known (some parts of Miutsu's highly advanced AWD system tend to fail due to our winters) the engine and turbo are rock-solid, their humble 2.0 engine can be pushed way north of 500 whp.

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