Scully1013 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Need some advice. I have a 2011 Ford Edge that just recently hit 101k miles. The check charging system light kept coming on and off on Friday then while I was on my way home, I experienced a full system shut down of the electrical in the cabin. When I pulled over the engine - for lack of a better word, shuddered and seized. The steering column locked and I couldn't put it in neutral to get it in a safer spot. I thought it was the alternator so we changed that and got the same issue. Took the alternator, both new and old, to be tester and both are fine. At this time, the battery will not hold a charge, everything in the cabin is dark, and for some odd reason it's blowing hot air out of the vents full blast and can't be turned off. Obviously. We're still going to check for exposed wires and possible corrosion. Any other thoughts as to why this is happening? I do know I have a blown fuse on the positive connection to the battery which I'm replacing tomorrow. Surely that's not the only problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Change the battery? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Does sound like the battery shorted. Over time the lead positive plate will shed pieces of itself. This will form a layer of conductive material and if deep enough, cause a short between the various plates. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Sorry I didn't use the correct wording. The battery, when charged with an external charging unit will hold the charge. It just won't charge while its in the car and running. But I can certainly check there that as well. I know when we had it hooked up to run diagnostics on it, the battery was reading fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 If we had a dollar for every time a bad battery tested good - we'd have a lot of dollars. Look at it this way - even if it's not the problem you have a fresh battery for the next 3-4 years and you can eliminate it as a cause. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) Get a battery that normally comes with the towing package, that will get you better starts and a better service life. Group 65, I think. Motorcraft, Interstate, etc. work well. If you can get an AGM-type battery, that would be an even better option. Battery voltage should be 12.6V when EVERYTHING is turned off, and 14-14.5V with the engine at 2,500 rpm, just to give you a reference point. Check battery CCAs with a digital load tester like the Solar BA5. And with the 2011-14 (maybe the 15+ also IDK), you need to reset the Battery Management System to let it know you have installed a new battery, otherwise the "smart charging" feature will not charge the battery properly, thinking the old, dying battery is still in place. Edited July 5, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Just to clarify a few things. The alternator tests good on a dyno puts out good voltage. On the car it puts out no voltage. And even when starting the car with the battery fresh off the charger the MFT system does not work. Black screen. After 30 or so seconds of starting the car the check charging system light comes on. Can all of this be caused by the battery? I have not load tested it. But was told it checks out at auto parts store. Is there a separate voltage regulator other than the one in the alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Also what is involved in resetting the BMS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 How old is you battery? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) I'd have to look at the battery (car is not here) but my best guess is it's close to 3 years old and now that I'm thinking about it I changed that battery and never reset a thing. Edited July 5, 2016 by Scully1013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Ok I have taken a known good battery from another edge and tested. No more charging system light. However no MFT. Screen remains black and can't change any settings from menus from steering wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Alright. New battery is in, MFT is working (someone may or may not have remembered to check all the fuses!) However check charging system light is now intermittent. Would the battery management system not being reset explain the warning light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 It might take a few drive cycles to reset the warning light, so give it a few days. As long as the Edge is operationally correct, should be OK. There's a thread on here about that "delay". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Well so much for that. Started dying on me again. Just made it to the dealership as it went Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 I would verify that the battery connectors , or connections at the alternator, are not corroded, causing a weak charge to be delivered to the battery. One other possibility is the alternator is bad (I know you had it tested, but it's possible that it's 'overcharging', essentially cooking the battery). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Do the 2011s have the variable output alternator controlled by the PCM? If so maybe that's the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 (edited) You mean the "smart charging", akirby? Yeah, the 2011+ have it FBOW. IIRC, it uses a battery current sensor to do it's work. Recently posted about that in another battery thread ... http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20612-low-battery-message/ Edited July 6, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Yep that was it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Yea that's what I'm thinking. Really hope it's not the PCM and it's just some sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 Dealer has had it service bay for over 3 hours now and can't diagnose the issue as of yet. I'm going to guess that's good thing at least as far as the PCM is concerned. Thinking that it would be easy to rule that out quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 You would think. If the PCM and battery and alternator are all good then that pretty much makes it a wiring problem I think. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Well they went through the car and found nothing, Aside from the alternator is apparently only sending 4.5 volts. The same alternator that I witnessed testing on and it was putting out 14.8ish at the parts shop. They can't explain it other than the alt must be bad?? Not sure what to think. The technician that was trouble shooting the car is supposed to call me in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 They need to determine if the PCM is calling for full or partial voltage. There should be a clear troubleshooting procedure in the shop manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 That's really what I want to find out. If they ruled out PCM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully1013 Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 Just to close this out. Issues are resolved. It was Infact an alternator issue. Bought one from the dealer and put it in Friday night. Still puzzled why the others tested ok. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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