jmr061 Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 (edited) The owner's manual says to remove the three screws/bolts that hold the headlamp assembly in, then pull forward to disengage and then up to remove the entire headlamp assembly. The service manual says to remove the bumper cover then remove the headlamp assembly. Anyone have luck with what the owner's manual says? I didn't want to pull forward on the assembly that hard. Don't want to remove the bumper cover. Thanks Edited August 14, 2016 by jmr061 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 You can remove the headlights without having to take off the bumper. Already have taken mine out to clean & to spray an undercoating around parts. One of the easiest headlight removals I've ever done. Should take you less than 5 minutes total for both sides 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Thanks ill try pulling forward harder then, lol. Playing with the programming for lamp outage detection and LED lighting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tjm623 Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 You can remove the headlights without having to take off the bumper. Already have taken mine out to clean & to spray an undercoating around parts. One of the easiest headlight removals I've ever done. Should take you less than 5 minutes total for both sides Just curious what were you undercoating that required headlight removal? Was this a DIY job? What product did you use? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 I used this stuff called Fluid Film. I hit all the metal components that could possibly hit with the winter salt/brine right after i first got the car. We've used it for years on our company trucks & there's virtually no rust on any of the underbody or suspension parts. If you Google it, a guy did a test with a mower blade. 1/2 treated with fluid film & the other left alone. The guy stuck it to his mailbox through a winter & the side treated with fluid film looked the day it was sprayed, but the untreated side was coated with rust. My co-worker sprayed his dad's 97 blazer for the last couple of years & his once rust coated frame is starting to look new again. Up here, Lowe's sells it & Rural King sells it. If those aren't available there's always ebay. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tjm623 Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) I know all about fluid film, used it on my f150! Have a can in my garage right now. Anything in particular you paid attention to? The only thing I didn't like about it was on my nerf bars and chrome bumpers it made it look extremely dirty and I had to wait until summer to scrub it off. Not worried about that with hidden metal, but guess I'm not sure what your able to get to easily. You do apply it yearly correct? Edited August 15, 2016 by Tjm623 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 These cars are relatively new so I'm not sure where the 'problem spots' are going to be. It took me a couple of cans, but i pulled the underbody felt down, sprayed all under there as well as anything that could get exposed to the salt/brine. Also got the door james, hinges, rear hatch, hood, fuel door, suspension components, etc. I can deal with the 'dirt' around where it was applied as it's protected from the elements. If it takes care of the car, i can deal with the dirty look. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beezz Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 You can remove the headlights without having to take off the bumper. Already have taken mine out to clean & to spray an undercoating around parts. One of the easiest headlight removals I've ever done. Should take you less than 5 minutes total for both sides How hard did you pull on them? I can't get the lower latching point to disconnect however hard I pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 How hard did you pull on them? I can't get the lower latching point to disconnect however hard I pull. Glad I am not the only one. Ill try again tomorrow. As long as I can get them out I am ordering LED turn signal bulbs for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beezz Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Glad I am not the only one. Ill try again tomorrow. As long as I can get them out I am ordering LED turn signal bulbs for it. Nice, are you getting switchbacks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) How hard did you pull on them? I can't get the lower latching point to disconnect however hard I pull. I gave it a good solid jerk. Looks like it's held in with a clamp/wedge thingy (technical term) that's on the cross member. There's 2 10mm bolts & 1 plastic retainer/screw Edited August 15, 2016 by lildisco 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 I gave it a good solid jerk. Looks like it's held in with a clamp/wedge thingy (technical term) that's on the cross member. There's 2 10mm bolts & 1 plastic retainer/screw Any chance of editing the pics and circling the area on the "frame" and the headlamp itself where you are talking that it clips? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Not at this time no, but if you look at the bottom of the headlight, you'll see a plastic piece hanging down from the bottom. That's what the wedge grabs or what the headlight sits in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Nice, are you getting switchbacks? No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 There is no need to pull the assembly forward as the instructions say. Just start at the rear corner and start pulling up. Pops right out then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 You need to nearly drop the headlight off the grill again, lol. As i said earlier, it's real easy to pull the headlights. Maybe we need to meet uo sometime & use your scantool on my edge. Looks like it has a lot of insider settings! I would advise if you do another video, to turn dow your 'work music' as it was a little difficult to hear what you were saying at times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tjm623 Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 That blinker going at the end of the video is literally my worst nightmare lol. That noise for that long! It's like nails on a chalkboard. But nice informational video for anyone trying to remove them / change any lights out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beezz Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) HOW THE HECK DO YOU GET THEM BACK IN????? I've been trying for 20 minutes to get the housing to lock back in. Someone spare me the misery. Update: got them back in, such a strange process / angle Edited August 24, 2016 by Beezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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