Jump to content

SYNC 3 and CarPlay/Android Auto Information


Recommended Posts

lildisco, sorry, I confused one of your posts with the Ford Dealer Guy. He said one port has more output than the other.

 

So let me clarify a few things:

  • AA & CP works on BOTH ports on the newer hub that supports CP. Never tested my old hub. My current hub in my Edge(16) and my Expedition(17) both work on both ports.
  • The hub outputs a total of 2.8A, Tested 3 Fords, F-150(17), Expedition(17), and Edge(16 with New Hub). It will send 2.8 to 1 port if the other does not have anything drawing power. I know this not because some random person guessed, but because I actually tested it.
  • "Turbo Charging" requires 3.0A of output, this hub will not supply that, and no Sync 3 software update will change that.

Not trying to get in to a Apple vs Android device battle in this thread. I don't use an Android device on a daily basis, as my primary portable devices are Apple. I find it really hard to believe that even at 2.0 Amps of draw it wouldn't at least charge your phone slowly while using the GPS. I could understand at 1.0A, but from what I have seen it put out it should easily do it. Something else is going on. I would love to see what your hub outputs...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Droid Turbo. Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0. We are available to upgrade in a few months (company phone)

Ah, Quickcharge requires the charger to have a chip that can communicate with the phone. I for instance charge my LG V20 with the samsung QC 3.0 charger from my old note 7 (LG one has electrical noise under load). It is only rated at 2.0 amps at 5 volts, you can charge with as little as 2 no problem but you still need that chip communication. Is your screen staying on while using AA?

https://www.qualcomm.com/products/features/quick-charge/faq

EDIT: Also my car does not quick charge my phone, but will charge it faster than it can drain while using AA, and it will get kinda hot as expected.

2nd Edit: Lildisco get Ampere to see what your device is charging at. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gombosdev.ampere&hl=en

 

Malcolm

Edited by rvcjew
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Screen goes black & Says Android Auto in white letters. Assuming that you're interested in this. Using the OEM home charger that came with the phone:

I'm more interested in your discharge rate, also when it goes black and says the letters the screen then after like 10 seconds just shuts off right and the phone sleeps while using AA? That is a pretty high charge rate if accurate though, I hit about 1920mA with the screen off (won't charge that quick with screen on as designed).

post-40602-0-55862500-1493870267_thumb.png

Edited by rvcjew
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm more interested in your discharge rate, also when it goes black and says the letters the screen then after like 10 seconds just shuts off right and the phone sleeps while using AA? That is a pretty high charge rate if accurate though, I hit about 1920mA with the screen off (won't charge that quick with screen on as designed).

 

That is a RIDICULOUS discharge rate for the screen not being on. Again, I run 3 relatively power hungry apps almost everyday coming home from work on my iPhone 7, and I will gain 20%+ on my battery in my 30 minutes drive plugged in to the cars hub. Sadly, which TRULY annoys me about iOS, I cannot see discharge. But I use the USB inline power meter, and my phone typically charges at about a 1.6A draw. Sometime higher, but only when the phones battery is really low, say 20% or below. At 1.6A I am running 3 heavy Power apps(Maps, Pandora, and Dash Command), all with the screen lit(I use a ProClip mount). What is running on ya'lls phones to cause that discharge rate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

That is a RIDICULOUS discharge rate for the screen not being on. Again, I run 3 relatively power hungry apps almost everyday coming home from work on my iPhone 7, and I will gain 20%+ on my battery in my 30 minutes drive plugged in to the cars hub. Sadly, which TRULY annoys me about iOS, I cannot see discharge. But I use the USB inline power meter, and my phone typically charges at about a 1.6A draw. Sometime higher, but only when the phones battery is really low, say 20% or below. At 1.6A I am running 3 heavy Power apps(Maps, Pandora, and Dash Command), all with the screen lit(I use a ProClip mount). What is running on ya'lls phones to cause that discharge rate?

No, that is the charge rate with screen off. My discharge is normally with screen on at around 150mA with 3 emails and some other push stuff. Also I read Lildiscos charge rate as 3xxx not 2xxx so their charge rate is fine but I'm wondering if aa is not letting their phone go in a low power STATE or if they have some kinda wack add app in the back ground. I agree a car ride may not charge the turbos battery (3900mah) all the way but should not discharge it.

 

Malcolm

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, that is the charge rate with screen off. My discharge is normally with screen on at around 150mA with 3 emails and some other push stuff. Also I read Lildiscos charge rate as 3xxx not 2xxx so their charge rate is fine but I'm wondering if aa is not letting their phone go in a low power STATE or if they have some kinda wack add app in the back ground. I agree a car ride may not charge the turbos battery (3900mah) all the way but should not discharge it.

 

Malcolm

 

OK, That makes a little more sense. Agree, something is not right. Would love to get an inline meter on his phone and see the real numbers, not what the phone is telling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just did some short errands today, (wife shopping). Getting ready for the return trip home tomorrow. Don't know if these will help. It seems to have kept the phone charged when at 100% and possibly charged it 1-2 % during 10-20 minute drives.

 

Both USB ports did work for Android Auto as well. Possibly i haven't given it enough time to charge as most of my trips have been under 30 minutes since 2.2 has been installed.

 

Here's some screen shots

post-41964-0-57582600-1493945728_thumb.jpg

post-41964-0-55795900-1493945745_thumb.jpg

Edited by lildisco
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Have you had any luck?

Sorry, I just now saw your question. I haven't had any luck on the owner.ford site. I did get a copy of the 2.2 software thanks to Ray Heath Jr. I am now scanning the messages looking for instructions on installing the software.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What should I see during the update. I don't see any indication of upgrade activity until I pull the flash drive and at that point I get a message basically saying that the update will continue when the USB is inserted. I get other messages, some because I have already installed the new hub. Is there a message at the beginning of the update indicating that the process has started.

 

I have a SanDisk 32GB Flash with the following files

autoinstall.lst
DONTINDX.MSA
SyncMyRide\GB5T-14G386-AA.tar.gz
SyncMyRide\GB5T-14G386-SB.tar.gz
SyncMyRide\HB5T-14G386-TBB.tar.gz
SyncMyRide\HN1T-14G381-SA.tar.gz
SyncMyRide\HN1T-14G391-BC.tar.gz
SyncMyRide\HN1T-14G423-BA.tar.gz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just did some short errands today, (wife shopping). Getting ready for the return trip home tomorrow. Don't know if these will help. It seems to have kept the phone charged when at 100% and possibly charged it 1-2 % during 10-20 minute drives.

 

Both USB ports did work for Android Auto as well. Possibly i haven't given it enough time to charge as most of my trips have been under 30 minutes since 2.2 has been installed.

 

Here's some screen shots

Looks like it's operating properly yeah. I will look at what mine gets next time I use AA.

 

What should I see during the update. I don't see any indication of upgrade activity until I pull the flash drive and at that point I get a message basically saying that the update will continue when the USB is inserted. I get other messages, some because I have already installed the new hub. Is there a message at the beginning of the update indicating that the process has started.

 

I have a SanDisk 32GB Flash with the following files

autoinstall.lst

DONTINDX.MSA

SyncMyRide\GB5T-14G386-AA.tar.gz

SyncMyRide\GB5T-14G386-SB.tar.gz

SyncMyRide\HB5T-14G386-TBB.tar.gz

SyncMyRide\HN1T-14G381-SA.tar.gz

SyncMyRide\HN1T-14G391-BC.tar.gz

SyncMyRide\HN1T-14G423-BA.tar.gz

Should not show anything till its done. I started the car stuck in my flash drive it said it was gonna update then I drove for around 30 minutes and it said done and to turn off the car so I did and made sure to open the door so sync shut off then waited 5 minutes to turn the car on again and then drove around for another 10 minutes till the nav portion came back.

 

Taken from the zip:

READ ME
THIS UPGRADE IS FOR NORTH AMERICAN 2016 FORD/LINCOLN MODELS WITH SYNC3 V1.0 OR V 1.1 FACTORY NAVIGATION ONLY.
THIS WILL UPGRADE FROM VERSIONS 1.0/1.1 TO VERSION 2.2
YOU WILL NEED A FAT32 OR EXFAT FORMATTED 2GB OR MORE USB FLASH DRIVE
USING A WINDOWS BASED COMPUTER UNZIP THE UPGRADE FILE TO THE ROOT FOLDER OF FLASH DRIVE
YOU WILL END UP WITH AUTOINSTALL FILE AND SYNCMYRIDE FOLDER IN THE ROOT OF THE USB DRIVE
TAKE FLASH DRIVE TO YOUR VEHICLE AND REMOVE ANYTHING PLUGGED INTO THE USB PORTS
START YOUR VEHICLE AND INSERT UPGRADE FLASH DRIVE
UPGRADE PROCESS WILL BEGIN AND TAKE APPROXIMATELY 15-20 MINUTES
ONCE UPDATE IS DONE (A MESSAGE WILL APPEAR) YOU MAY REMOVE THE FLASH DRIVE AND TURN THE VEHICLE OFF
LEAVE THE VEHCILE OFF FOR APPROXIMATELY 5 MINUTES AND RESTART
YOU WILL SEE THAT YOU NOW ARE RUNNING VERSION 2.2
THE BUILT IN NAVIGATION MAY TAKE SEVERAL MINUTES TO START BACK UP
THIS IS USED AT YOUR OWN RISK AND YOU TAKE ALL RESPONSBILITY FOR ITS USE
NAVIGATION MAPS DO NOT GET UPGRADED WITH THIS UPDATE

 

Malcolm

Edited by rvcjew
Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Should not show anything till its done. I started the car stuck in my flash drive it said it was gonna update then I drove......"

 

So it does indicate that it is going to update at the beginning of the process? Was there a message box at the beginning that waited for an OK?

 

I may have to find a PC to unzip the files, I used a MAC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Should not show anything till its done. I started the car stuck in my flash drive it said it was gonna update then I drove......"

 

So it does indicate that it is going to update at the beginning of the process? Was there a message box at the beginning that waited for an OK?

 

I may have to find a PC to unzip the files, I used a MAC.

If using the MAC, format the flash drive as FAT in disk utility (it will format it as fat32 but apple calls it this). The car will say updating and then it will show in the top black section only a picture of a update icon I believe till it's done. I did it a while ago so don't fully remember but it should show a message without a prompt then begin then show a message with a prompt at the end.

 

Should be like this: (That video shows for non nav but the update part is the same as it will show you what it does while updating)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1TjdhDdkxg?t=232

 

Malcolm

Edited by rvcjew
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally, I got the update to SYNC 2.2 installed. I unzipped the file using Apple's OSx which caused a problem by using a forward slash in the path. I switched to terminal mode and used the command line unzip command which produced and output with the slash's that Window's expects, the backslash.

 

I felt that I had found the problem when the command line unzip command issued the following warning.

warning: HN1T-14G381-SA.zip appears to use backslashes as path separators

 

https://www.howtogeek.com/181774/why-windows-uses-backslashes-and-everything-else-uses-forward-slashes/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally, I got the update to SYNC 2.2 installed. I unzipped the file using Apple's OSx which caused a problem by using a forward slash in the path. I switched to terminal mode and used the command line unzip command which produced and output with the slash's that Window's expects, the backslash.

 

I felt that I had found the problem when the command line unzip command issued the following warning.

warning: HN1T-14G381-SA.zip appears to use backslashes as path separators

 

https://www.howtogeek.com/181774/why-windows-uses-backslashes-and-everything-else-uses-forward-slashes/

Good to hear you got it done.

 

Malcolm

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to hear you got it done.

 

Malcolm

Yes, the 'READ ME' file you posted helped. When it said "use a Windows computer" I remembered seeing the different back slashes mentioned with respect to this upgrade.

 

Any Mac users must use a windows computer or the unzip command within the terminal app.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried updating twice, but both times it did not. I am using a FAT32 Format USB (8GB). Both times I left the car on for 30-40 minutes and I get a message saying the system is updating. However, I never get to the point the the system has been updated.

Edited by Manny2525
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried updating twice, but both times it did not. I am using a FAT32 Format USB (8GB). Both times I left the car on for 30-40 minutes and I get a message saying the system is updating. However, I never get to the point the the system has been updated.

Just for it the third time. It said installing failed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just for it the third time. It said installing failed.

 

Some things we learned early in this thread, that have been partially forgot now that the official update is out.

 

Sync3 seems to do better with the update when you use a USB 2.0 drive vs a USB 3.0 Drive. Also, it does not seem to prefer the large drives. The smallest drive that will still fit the files, the better.

 

Also, The Non-Navs take longer. They run the update in pieces. Since the Non-Navs have less space to play with on the unit, they cannot load the whole install at once, so it does it in steps.

 

Make sure your Flash drive is freshly formatted before you copy the files to it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...