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2013 Ford Edge Passenger CV Axle Replacement


soonerscore

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I may not use all of the proper terms, but I think you'll figure it out. I have a 2013 Edge FWD 3.5l with 26K miles. Something poked a hole in my cv boot and it's cheaper and easier (in my opinion) to replace the entire axle instead of just the boot. I got an axle through eBay from Detroit Axle for $48 free ship. Here goes...... After removing the wheel, I removed the abs sensor from the back of the hub (5/16 bolt). I removed the 10mm bolt that is in the middle of the flexible brake line so the caliper can move more. Remove the bolt in the middle of the hub holding the cv axle in (don't remember size but is metric). You will more than likely have to give the end of the shaft a good whack with a hammer to get it loose. I removed the two bolts holding the strut assembly to the hub (dont remember size). Don't let it hang by the brake line. It will damage it. Use wire or something to hold it up. You will now be able to remove the outer part of the cv axle. The inner part is a little more tricky. There is a compression snap ring holding it in the half shaft (tube/shaft connecting cv to the transmission). Side note; sometimes the new cv axles come with the half shaft. I found that removing the half shaft with the cv is easier than trying to separate them as is. there were three bolts holding the half shaft to the engine block. (2x15mm 1x13mm) After you remove those bolts. the shaft will come right out of the transmission. (no fluid came out of mine) Give the cv a couple good whacks with a hammer and it will come right out of the half shaft. My cv did not come with the dust seal already on it so i had to take it off of my old one. (seal where the cv mates with the half shaft). - Caleb

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I recently purchased a used 2011 Ford Edge (91K miles) and noticed the outer driver's side CV joint making noise during sharp turns. Pulled the left axle and disassembled the outer CV joint. In the attached photo you can see that every surface where the balls contact there is pitting. The boot was not damaged so all the grease was there and no dirt entered the joint. Not sure why this occurred, it seems unusual for all 8 surfaces to have pitting like this but this was the case and what was causing the noise during sharp turns. I replaced the axle with an OEM Motorcraft part from Rockauto.

 

The used Edge was maintained well with all service done at the dealership. Overall it's is very good condition but I did miss the CV joint noise when I checked it out before purchase. I also missed a small power steering high pressure hose leak so had to also replace this hose.

 

All is well now and I'm impressed with the Ford, it's quiet, powerful and handles reasonably well. It's the limited model so some nice features and the interior is also nice and comfortable. Really like it so far.

 

 

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My guess is the grease deteriorated from exposure to heat and age. Wonder if the other side also worn?

 

(Now you got me wondering about mine. Had the Service Manager do a full inspection on my 09 when I bought my latest extended warranty. He found one boot (slightly) leaking, not enough to replace. No problems so far, but I do have over 110k).

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My guess is the grease deteriorated from exposure to heat and age. Wonder if the other side also worn?

 

(Now you got me wondering about mine. Had the Service Manager do a full inspection on my 09 when I bought my latest extended warranty. He found one boot (slightly) leaking, not enough to replace. No problems so far, but I do have over 110k).

 

I'm debating on replacing the other side too, there is no noise during sharp turning so it may not be worn. If you don't hear any noise during sharp turns I think your outer CV joints are in decent shape. CV joints do seem to give you plenty of warning when they go bad. I have three cars and two of the cars have had a bad inner joint, which causes vibrations and I've read it's less typical for the inner tripod type joint to go bad, it's more likely the outer joints go first.

 

It did seem like the grease in the outer joint was thin as compared to new grease but not sure if that was the problem. The grease used for the inner joint is even thinner but I've read it's a different type grease for the needle bearings in the tripod joints.

 

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Well maintained or not there is no maintenance to do on a CV joint except to see if the boot is leaking. When I did mine they looked perfect without any leaks or tears in the boot. I think mine had close to 80,000 when the first one went. I didn't post mortem mine but I bet it looked about the same.

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Friends, I on a CV axis have questions:
1 Her it is rare where mention, I don't know what it is connected with, it is possible she is seldom damaged. for example in rockauto.com I haven't found her, perhaps I looked for not there.
2. I have found only two people who tell about replacement of a CV axis, including this subject.
3. I had had a sweating on this axis. I will attach the image and I want to learn:
- why there was a sweating on a joint of axes? Before him wasn't, lubricant from CV joint comes to light?
- what signs of malfunction of a CV axis? May I continue driving or I need to make prevention to prolong service life of this mechanism? or this mechanism can't be repaired and it is only possible to replace?
Now I observe a small spot and there is no leak, it is acceptable, but I want to know what my actions further for control of a situation.
Thanks.

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Edited by EDST777
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Friends, I on a CV axis have questions:

1 Her it is rare where mention, I don't know what it is connected with, it is possible she is seldom damaged. for example in rockauto.com I haven't found her, perhaps I looked for not there.

2. I have found only two people who tell about replacement of a CV axis, including this subject.

3. I had had a sweating on this axis. I will attach the image and I want to learn:

- why there was a sweating on a joint of axes? Before him wasn't, lubricant from CV joint comes to light?

- what signs of malfunction of a CV axis? May I continue driving or I need to make prevention to prolong service life of this mechanism? or this mechanism can't be repaired and it is only possible to replace?

Now I observe a small spot and there is no leak, it is acceptable, but I want to know what my actions further for control of a situation.

Thanks.

 

From your photos this location is where the passenger side CV axle slides onto the intermediate shaft. It doesn't look like it's a leak from the inner joint boot. I'm thinking is may oil separating from the grease that's on the splines of the intermediate shaft.

 

Having just replaced my passenger side axle there's grease on the spline grooves in the inner joint housing that slides onto the splines of the intermediate shaft. It doesn't looked like there's a good seal at this location and why I'm thinking what you're seeing may be oil separating from the spline grease. There is also a sealed bearing at the end of the intermediate shaft. If there's no noise or vibration from the intermediate shaft and CV axle there's likely no problem. You might want to clean the area and keep an eye on it. Do you notice any noise or vibration while driving? Bad inner joint usually results in vibration or shudder during acceleration and bad outer joints are usually noisy during turns. This is just my experience based on previous CV joints problems I've had with various cars.

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Thanks, I have obtained a lot of information which interested me, means on an intermediate axis
there are a sealant and lubricant which can flow at sealant violation.
In my opinion there are no noise and vibration when driving at different speeds, but I have noticed other features:
the car began to twitch at the beginning of driving and it is possible, but not precisely, (I will watch it) it depends on turns, torsion, rotation of a wheel. These twitchings are similar to easy kicks, similar which were that before replacement of OSS and TSS sensors in transmission, but I have replaced these sensors two years ago and problems after replacement weren't. A month ago there were similar problems, but softer symptoms and in my opinion it is connected, possibly, with an oil spot on an axis. My opinion is based that there are no mistakes through ForScan, and also the fact that I have 154 000 km (100 000 miles) and didn't replace this part. What your thoughts, such symptoms can be? How I could check more precisely that easy kicks at the beginning of driving depend on it? Thanks.

 

P.S.: Kicks happen not always, but to some frequency, sometimes, it seems to me especially when changing the direction: for example driving back on R-a full stop - P-D, the beginning of driving forward, is also to steam of easy, soft kicks. Perhaps points to bad lubricant which has flowed out from intermediate axes or the broken vents CV Joint?

 

...and today I have noticed, really, very seldom, but they have appeared, easy clicks two times when driving when you turn a wheel to the right against the stop and go forward, is what I have managed to observe. Whether there is a sense, to sort and grease CV Joint or it is simpler to replace it at it operating time(154 000 km or 100 000 miles)?

 

I would like to receive the help in selection exact number of an intermediate shaft, their big set and I am afraid to be mistaken at the possible order. To me such numbers met
7T4Z 3A329B
7T4Z3A329BD
DT4Z3A329A
8T4Z3A329A
7T4Z3A428D
what of them will be a worker of Ford EDGE 3.5 2008 AWD Limited 2FMDK49C08BA19802 for me?

May I get a PART number of the right shaft in collecting (for possible reduction in cost of the order, one number, perhaps, that is: intermediate shaft + cv Joint)?
Thanks for any thoughts.

Edited by EDST777
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After replacing the driver's side axle due to a worn/pitted and noisy outer CV joint I decided to also replace the passenger side axle. I did take the outer CV joint apart and didn't see the same pitting in the outer CV joint ball races as I did on the driver's side. Overall it looked to be in good shape. I'll put new boots on the old axle and sell it or keep as a spare, it's always good to save OEM axles if possible because of all the aftermarket junk being sold these days.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi, today I tried to replace CV Joint from the passenger side. I reached a step when it is necessary to disconnect Cv joint from a linkage with the intermediate shaft. Here I failed, it was not derived by breakthroughs. It kept very well. I tried to knock on it from PTU, on internal CV through a wooden pro-rate lying on the earth under the car, but it did not give a successful completion. I saw video Buck Newby where he advised to push Cv Joint crowbar with a hook. I had crowbar with a hook, but it was too big to be located behind internal Cv Joint. What your thoughts concerning extraction? I will be helped only by crowbar with a hook suitable by the size or there are still options?

 

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