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Rear Cargo Cover - Possible Solution?


chefduane

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After reading most of the threads about the POS cargo cover that Ford offers (and buying then returning one) and then searching around a good bit, I finally found this: "Cargo Cover Retractable for 2011 Ford Edge Black by Kongka" - (I'd link it but for some reason my cut/paste capabilities have become non-functional. Just search amazon for that title.) At any rate, it seems to be exactly what I and MANY others have been looking for. It does require drilling some holes for the mounts but I really wouldn't mind that if it turned out to be an actual functional and usable retractable cargo cover. (Something that apparently Ford could not figure out.) And I personally don't care about the rear seat not reclining issue as its just my wife and I, and after 24 years of marriage and despite my considerable persuasion skills she seldom wants to get into the back seat anymore.

 

Anybody actually have one of these? Seen one? I like to get some comments on the listing before I bite the bullet. Thanks for any feedback!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I went ahead and purchased the cargo cover. Will get it in a few weeks. I'll post how the install goes and if it really will solve the retractable cover issue. I'm trying to think of a way to better attach the side mounts other than just screws into the side plastic molding. Maybe butterfly/toggle bolts or somesuch.

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I have the soft cover (2009 MKX, retractable cover not offered as OEM). Anyway, with this cover it attaches to the sides with small plastic clips that are worked between the plastic interior side covers and exterior side shell of the vehicle. Like a hook, you slip them into the gap and turn 90°, making them perpendicular to the length of the car. The cover hooks to hooks on these "pins".

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Enigma,

Yeah, that's kinda' like I want to attach the side mounts. I don't feel comfortable just having the screws going into the plastic. Are the hooks you are talking about anything like you might find at a Home Depot or Lowes? Or are they specific to your cover? As I mentioned, I'm thinking about something like a toggle bolt or j-hook that would mount similar to what yours does. I suppose I could remove the interior side panels and use a nut and bolt with a brace of some kind. I saw MacT's vid on how to remove the interior rear trim when he did his shocks. Looks like a PITA just to do a cargo cover. Maybe I should do both the cover *and* shocks if I'm going to pull all that trim off.

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Here's a picture of the plastic clip. If you look just below the rear windows in the cargo area, there's a small gap between the interior cover and shell. This hook is inserved into this gap (tight fit) and then turned 90°. The half the clips is like an "S" hook, the other end is a couple od bars where the loop strap interconnects with.

post-32762-0-48650900-1487798274_thumb.jpg

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Actually it's rare the fellers go around peeking through the tint to see if there's anything of value back there. Too easy to be seen.

 

What they do (and the cops know this), is they go the mall or other large outdoor events where people are shopping and often run their purchases back to the car so they don't have to continue carrying them around. The little fellers watch them and when they head back to buy more stuff, smash. (They don't risk getting caught unless they are certain there's a good percentage of getting the goods.) Caddy and other luxery suv's are prime targets. If you can afford a $40k car, you can afford the better "stuff".

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I agree about not really being able to see into the cargo compartment. That's probably why I have waited this long (bought it in Sept last year) to get one. I have a black Rubbermaid ActionPacker that contains misc car stuff and a bug out kit. It is almost invisible back there. I have a Tux Black/black interior Edge and it is really hard to see back there with the tint and all. But I just *like* having a cargo cover. To me, it simply looks sleek and uncluttered.

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I've looked at these as well and questioned the screw in clip's reliability.

 

(I haven't ordered one) But if the clip's structural integrity is not in question but its reliable connection to the side panel IS, You could use a 4"x4" plate like a square electrical box cover (metal or plastic) and use a thru bolt to this backing. That should provide plenty of structural integrity for the mount.

 

Stainless steel, counter sunk bolt with a nylock nut for the back side.

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Yes, that's along the lines of what I was thinking. After I receive it I'm going to evaluate whether it is worth installing. If it seems like a quality retractable cover then I'll take the time and expense involved to take off the interior side panels. Tacyon, I do like the backing plate idea with countersunk bolts with nylocks. If the rest of the unit is built acceptably, that sounds like a plan. Thanks!

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I've seen the 2016 Edge and has pockets molded right into those side panels. A shame that Ford didn't just cookie cutter those side panels. I think that there would probably be more afterthought takers if it was that easy.

 

chefduane, When you place the backing plate, might I suggest that you use my new favorite adhesive. Black silicone trim adhesive. Once dry you'll never have to fumble with the assembly steps.

 

Tip: I used black silicone trim adhesive to attach my detector to the windshield vs suction cups. There is a process, so ask if you're interested.

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Well the cargo cover arrived today from Guangzhou! I unboxed it and inspected it and I am pleasantly surprised by the quality. It seems to be fairly well made and the retract mechanism works well. I have been thinking about how to mount it and have decided that I would like to try to mount it without removing the trim panels. I am going to try the moly bolt solution. The rear panel seems sturdy/thick enough to handle a couple of moly bolts and the unit does not weigh all that much. The mount will have to support the weight of the cover and roller mechanism and the horizontal stress of the retraction spring. I would put the total weight at just about the same as the cargo cover for my previous Explorer and that of the Escape.

 

I'm not sure if I will use an adhesive on the mount. If it doesn't work out and I choose to uninstall it, I don't want to have to deal with removing mounts that are glued onto the trim panels. Even if I drill a few holes in the panel, I could always cover them with trim plugs.

 

I'm going to try to get it installed tomorrow. I really hope the install goes well and it is sturdy enough to handle regular use. Also, with all the friggin' research I did and having to order it by slow boat from China (literally) I really don't want this to be a bust.

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Got the cargo cover installed today and I am very pleased with it! The construction and operation of the unit is more that acceptable. I did have to do some minor "Texas engineering" to get it to fit into the mounts once everything was installed... the unit was a bit wide and once the mounts were in and it would not settle down into the holder and there didn't seem to be any different location to mount the base holders and the shade ends. I had to use my hand-dandy Harbor Freight bench sander to take about 1/16" or so off both sides so that it would slip into the mounts. I used moly bolts on the mounts but only on the base ends up near the rear seats. There was only about 1 inch or less behind the interior panel at the hatch end and I could not get a butterfly bold in there. If there is an issue with it I will retrofit with the base plate method - so that remains to be seen. All in all I'm pretty happy.

 

I also cleaned and conditioned the battery connections (wire brush and such) and tested it with a new BA-7 tester I bought. 12.55v +/- and 850 CCAs. The battery looks new so I think the dealer replaced it when they put it on the lot. I also put in a new Canister Purge Valve as I heard that there can be problems after 70k miles or so. I just passed 70k. Also, I was going to swap out the PCV but after I took off the shroud and saw where that thing was located I decided that that was a project for another day. Lastly, I did a MAF clean with some CRC cleaner. Me and the wife are driving from Dallas to Knoxville week after next and I thought I'd get things into shape for the trip. Tomorrow I'm going to blow out the AC drain as suggested by MacT in one of his vids.

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Love to see pictures of the shade. (Hint, hint).

 

In addition to Mac's great video on the AC clean, you might consider shooting some Kool-it into the evap drain. It foams, getting into each nook and cranny and will kill any bacteria or mold present. There are several good vids on YouTube showing how to use it. (Short version, hook it to the rubber drain, open the valve and squirt to entire can into the evap. Disconnect and it will turn to liquid and drain out). Evaporator clean.

 

Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PamUybPP4NAQM

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The Kool It stuff looks interesting but I don't have any issues with the A/C. I may do it as a preventative. One vid showed how to spray it into the vents - not sure about that.

 

I'll try to post a few pics of the cover asap. I'd like to try a vid if possible. Do you have to have a pay membership to post videos? Regardless, I may just sign up anyway considering all the great info I've gotten.

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