Notes from changing Anti-freeze on the 4 cylinder 2.0L Ecoboost

[LorenAZ]

The owners manual for my 2012 Edge 2.0L EcoBoost recommends changing the anti-freeze at 60K miles. So I decided to go ahead and change it at 53K.

I looked all over for information on this project, here and on YT, but could not any info, except on the V6.

I can tell you the project is similar to the v6, with some differences.

So I thought I would share with you what I did for this project.

I did not do a complete flush. All I did basically was drain the radiator, coolant reservoir and any other fluid that would come out.

I put my Edge on car ramps which gets it up high enough to have plenty of room to work under it. Make sure you use the parking brake and wheel wedges behind the rear wheels.

Once its on the ramps, remove the lower engine protective pan. This comes off with 4 twist locks.

The radiator drain plug is really hidden and hard to access. It is on the lower left corner of the radiator, just in front of the frame rail. The space around it is very tight and I could not get a good photo of it, or I would have posted one.

The plug is NOT a nut type end, so you can't use an ope end/box end or socket on it. It looks like a giant twist lock, similar to the ones you twist to remove the lower engine pan.

I used a 6 inch Cresent wrench, turned it down to about 3/16: opening so I could fit it on the head of the plug. It takes some fiddling to turn it out about 1 1/2 to 2 turns.

It looked like the drain from the plug would drop down through a hole, directly under the plug. I took a 1/2 gallon plastic milk bottle and cut and twist cap end off and then cut the body to about an inch tall so it would slide under the drain hole and empty away from the air dam shroud and into the 5 gallon bucket I used.

It worked great. I loosened the drain plug just enough to start dripping, slide the catch pan under the drain plug and the 5 gallon bucket under that. The plug is in a very awkward position, so take you time and open it just enough to start a manageable stream of anti-freeze.

Make sure you remove the cap from the coolant reservoir so the system drains easier.

It took about 30 minute to drain out all that it was going to drain.

Once the last of the drips finished, I removed the bucket,the catch pan and tighten the drain plug.

It drained out about 1 1/2 gallons of coolant, so I started pouring in the same amount of new fluid. Once up to the mark on the reservoir, I put the cap on and started the motor.

The fluid dropped about an inch in the coolant tank, so I added that much more. Continued running the motor until it warmed up.

No leaks! So I reattached the lower engine cover (4 twist locks), cleaned up the area, backed the car off the ramps and let the engine run for about 15 minutes. No change in the fluid level. I'll check it when we drive it some.

I took my time, I was in no hurry and spent a couple of hours on the project.

Hope this helps! I know it would have been nice had someone posted some notes earlier.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I find it puzzling that the owner's manual says 8.9 quarts as a dry fill capacity for the cooling system, while the FSM says 10.7-10.9 quarts. If the FSM is correct, you may need to perform at least one more D/F to get it mostly exchanged out.

 

BTW, where did you see the 60K interval for coolant? I found instructions for special operating conditions for trans fluid, but not coolant. Normally 1st change is 100K, then every 60K thereafter. BUT I applaud your changing it earlier, as that will likely save the water pump in the long run. Water pumps easy to change on these engines compared to the 3.5.

[TheWizard]

Imperial versus US? 10.7 US quarts = 8.9 Imperial (Canadian) quarts.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

That would explain a lot

Edited April 4, 2017 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[enigma-2]

I remember asking about the cost associated with changing the coolant at the dealer. He told me that one of the things they do after the drain is to run a neutralizer through the system. Said it was necessary. Then refill.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

This was with extended life coolants like we have now? I guess the benefit would be take out "radical" elements that are difficult to remove with just draining/flushing?

[enigma-2]

If I remember correctly, it was to neutralize acids in the system (wasn't paying too close attention).

[akirby]

it's probably to get rid of leftover coolant that might be incompatible with the new coolant. Unless you're doing a chemical flush then you need to neutralize those chemicals.

[enigma-2]

Believe you may be right. They did say that it required a newer (different) coolant that Ford bound to protect better.

(Picture Homer Simpson standing like deer in the headlights, nodding and saying "duhhh ok").

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

They used to use acids in flush products to clean out the cooling system. Then put in neutralizers to wash out remaining acids. Modern flush products do not seem to need neutralizers, and Motorcraft's product specifically says no neutralizer needed. Not that there is harm in using one probably. Sodium citrate or sodium carbonate are common neutralizers.

[macbwt]

They used to use acids in flush products to clean out the cooling system. Then put in neutralizers to wash out remaining acids. Modern flush products do not seem to need neutralizers, and Motorcraft's product specifically says no neutralizer needed. Not that there is harm in using one probably. Sodium citrate or sodium carbonate are common neutralizers.

Just dump a soda pop in the radiator Sodium Citrate is the same ingredient used in soda's. Most likely not advisable though. The chemical uses in our world. Prestone flush and cleaner is about 50 percent Sodium Citrate and water. nothing more.

[akirby]

Soda pop?

 

Damn yankees.......probably prefer Pepsi to Coke too......silly people...

[TheWizard]

In the south, one asks for a "Coke" then the waitstaff asks what flavor... as in Sprite, Orange, Root Beer, etc.

[akirby]

In the south, one asks for a "Coke" then the waitstaff asks what flavor... as in Sprite, Orange, Root Beer, etc.

 

Exactly!

[enigma-2]

I remember that when my dealer flushed by coolant they told me that the "had" to use a neutralizer on the system after the drain and before the fill. I think they also said they flushed it with clear water afterwards.

[tamugrad2013]

I remember that when my dealer flushed by coolant they told me that the "had" to use a neutralizer on the system after the drain and before the fill. I think they also said they flushed it with clear water afterwards.

 

How much did the dealer charge for this service if you don't mind me asking. Im going to have it done this summer.

[enigma-2]

I'll have to pull the work orders, don't remember anymore, it was done in connection with other work. Seems I bulked at the price, believe it was under a hundred.

[LorenAZ]

I changed my coolant at 53k because I live in Arizona and it gets HOT down here for a long time. I had purchased this 2012 Limited in Feb this year and the Carfax reported that it was a local purchase, so I knew it had gone through 4 years of hot AZ summers. I thought it would be a good maintenance idea to go ahead and change the coolant when I did. Like I mentioned in the original post, I did a drain and fill, not a full flush. I have always made it a point of changing all of the fluids and filters in cars I purchase. I have done the same to this one, with the exception of the transmission fluid which is next.

[enigma-2]

If you have the AWD, don't forget to pump out and refill the PTU.

From a personal point, I forgot to get the rear axle fluid changed, get it done next oil change.