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2013 SE with sport 22 inch rims is a slug


Mgavin1985

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Someone probably has the answers. I had a Se 17 inch stick set of rims I ended find a great deal and now it has the factory 22 inch for the sport trim with 265 40 22 tires.

When I switched it is now a slug when driving I know the sport trim is a taller setup and altogether diameter but I have to drive in s mode on the transmission just to have normal driving conditions or the transmission is always shifting as soon as I hit slight incline. I wonder if I can have a dealer flash the computer and give me a sport trim tune. I don't want to buy aftermarket turner but my shift point feeling like I'm towing a 50 ft boat behind me head up pikes peak

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The 22s are heavier wheels compared to the 17s. Not sure exactly how much, but possibly 10-15 lbs per wheel. More weight that needs more power to move. But it shouldn't feel like a 50 ft boat. Perhaps the non-Sport compliant suspension makes it feel that way?

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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If you had 235-65-17's. The 22's are a little more then 1 inch taller. Taller, heavier and wider = less power, less gas mileage, speedometer off about 3mph in your case. But it's not like you put a 4x4 size tire on. Strange to me that it would feel that bad. I'd like to see some pics of before and after.

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The additional size changes the apparent overall gear ratio. In this case, the new wheels are a little over 4.5% larger so that's like changing the stock 3.16 rear end ratio down to 3.02. That's a noticeable change. A Sport model with the larger wheels would have come with a 3.39 gear ratio from the factory.

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You should be able to program the new tire size, either yourself using ForScan or through a dealer. The AWD Sport had a shorter final drive ration (3.39) compared to the SE's (3.16), so that would definitely have an effect. Also the 22" are considerably heavier. No wonder early reveiws stated that SEL's were quicker than the Sport even though it had a larger engine.

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Great info forscan what is it an app or reader? It is causing my transmission to be gear searching constantly it is a pain in ass. Makes since that an actual sport model has different ratio it also effect rise quality as well. It feels like I'm driving a tank. thanks for all the replies I get good info on here. My current fix is driving is S mode on trans and keeps RPMs higher and limits gear searching 0-60 time is 20 seconds

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Forscan is an app for use in conjunction with an OBD II reader to read and/or change some of the system programming. Changing the tire/wheel size in the programming will correct your speedometer and probably help with the transmission gear searching but it won't help with the overall slowness. Only a physical change (such as gears) will do that.

 

20 seconds to 60 mph? I've seen school buses faster than that! (literally... at a "run what you brung" drag strip event).

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I actually put a set of 30 mm wheel adapters on so no rubbing. I'm going to look into updating the tire size in the computer I've never used a odb2 or see what a dealer would charge here is a pic also look at how small the rotor look in it funny. Do you guys know is the suspension completely different setup for sports such as struts or beefier components I would like to also improve ride

post-44395-0-68230900-1495036164_thumb.jpg

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I agree that the wheels can make a big difference but 20 seconds to 60 mph is excessive. We're talking about less than 5% loss of mechanical advantage due to the change in wheel size yet the 0-60 time is more than double the rated time of somewhere in the 7 second range.

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The weight was noticeable when I had them shipped UPS big bill!. I've had them on for 10,000 miles I did an alignment right after install around the 2000 mile mark I had a lot of vibration and had to replace inner and outer tie rods then had another alignment. I'm think faster/sooner suspension wear on everything. What do you guys think since I'm running heavier and taller setup

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Wheel balancing (road force/laser) is very important esp with heavy wheels. The springs and front stabilizer bar are likely different on the Sport than the SE/SEL/etc. that have up to 18" wheels. The steering gear is also different. At least they were when I was researching for the 2007-10 MYs. Tie rods, control arms are the same. I would say to have the wheels checked at a wheel shop for trueness and lack of structural defects if the vibration re-manifests.

The weight was noticeable when I had them shipped UPS big bill!. I've had them on for 10,000 miles I did an alignment right after install around the 2000 mile mark I had a lot of vibration and had to replace inner and outer tie rods then had another alignment. I'm think faster/sooner suspension wear on everything. What do you guys think since I'm running heavier and taller setup

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Heavier wheels would probably dictate heavier springs but I don't know if the OEM sport wheels are that much heavier so it's hard to say. Same for shocks.

 

The problem is you don't really know how those stock parts will perform with your non-stock wheels. Ford goes to a lot of trouble to match the OEM setups so you get a consistent feel whether you have 18s, 19s, 20s or 22s. Just changing one piece of the puzzle can yield bad results.

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I had a new set of 20" tires put on in Feb and "brushed" a curb in March. Completely tore a large hole in the sidewall, destroying the tire. An 18 would have scuffed and kept right on going. Dealer rep & I were talking during service. He was telling me about a customer with 21's on his new car. Two months old and he was in replacing his 2nd tire. Pothole on first, screw on second. The screw went in, in tread area, but so little sidewall, penetrated the sidewall at a 45° angle. Tire shot when sidewall punctured.

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