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Rebuild Cost of Engine


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16 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

Decojuicer

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 11:04 PM

Hi folks,

 

I've lurked here before, but this is my first time posting. Here's my situation. 

 

My 2010 AWD Edge developed a severe knocking noise. I took it to a backyard mechanic that was highly recommended by two friends. He said that it was a rod knock, and that the engine would have to be replaced. I was in a hurry to get a new engine because of an upcoming vacation, but I ended up getting scammed by a salvage yard for $750. Now that I'm not going to get the engine in time to replace it before the vacation, I'm thinking about just pulling the engine and taking it somewhere to get it rebuilt. 

 

Most of the low mileage engines that I found (from places that appear to be reputable) run $1200-$1500. Would it be more cost effective to take my engine somewhere to be rebuilt? Would it last me longer in the long run? What would a fair price be for a rebuild? Other than boring out cylinders, is this a job that I could do myself in a reasonable amount of time (I haven't rebuilt an engine since high school, but I have a pretty decent understanding of the mechanics involved).

 

Thanks for any help that you can give.

 

 









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#2 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 08:38 AM

People don't really rebuild modern mass production engines these days.  Easier just to replace the short/longblock or entire engine.  Parts cost will kill you piecemeal if new.  Tolerances are tight, so you have to have access to the appropriate equipment.  As an enthusiast and hobbyist, sure it is possible.  But for your daily driver, not really practical to rebuild.

 

At most, I would suggest buying a used block, then replacing the VCT solenoids, belts (maybe tensioner and alternator depending on mileage) timing set, and water pump, and regular maintenance (plugs, pcv valve, maybe intake gasket) before putting it back in the engine bay.


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#3 OFFLINE   fishx65

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 05:25 PM

If your Edge is in really good shape a Jasper or Motorcraft long block may be worth the cost.  Michigan vehicles can get pretty rusty in 6 years so ya may wanna give it a good once-over before deciding.  Just had some good friends put a Jasper in their 90,000 mile 2010 F150 for $6500.00 including labor.  I think the motor cane with a 3 year warranty.


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#4 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 08:04 PM

I would not put a junk yard engine in the Edge.  A Ford Reman comes with a warranty and piece of mind.


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#5 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 01:24 AM

Thanks for your replies. Unfortunately, a reman isn't in my budget right now. However, a friend of mine who lives close to the salvage yard that I ordered the engine from was able to straighten out the situation and get me the motor I ordered. The engine only has 39k miles on it. I'm going to take WWWPerfA_ZNOW's advise and replace the block and all of the important parts. Thanks again.


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#6 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 08:20 AM

I wish you best of luck.  If you can, please take & post pics along the way.  Definitely ask questions as & when they occur.  Let's give this project the maximum chance to succeed!


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#7 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 31 July 2017 - 12:36 AM

Thanks WWW. Here's the status of the project:

 

I ordered a used engine for what I thought was a great deal. It turns out that I got ripped off by the company (AA Used Auto Parts out of Tampa, if anyone wants to know). The company never sent me any info on the engine like I asked, they never sent the engine, and as of today I still haven't gotten a refund, though they swear that they issued it. I found another engine, this one on eBay. The seller has a 100% satisfaction rate, has already sent me the VIN on the engine, and has told me that eBay and PayPal will stand behind the seller completely to work out any issues. Carfax showed that the engine most likely has less than 30k miles on it (24k 4 months before the vehicle was totaled in an accident), and it comes with a 1 year warranty. I'm ordering the engine on Tuesday of this week, and as soon as I order it, I'll start removing the old engine. I even found a used engine hoist for sale locally for $90.

 

I'll make sure to keep a good visual record of the project with pics and video, and update often. I'm taking your advice and replacing everything that you recommended, plus a couple of other PITA items. Hopefully I'll have the car up and running within the next two weeks. 


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#8 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 31 July 2017 - 04:17 AM

I hate hate hate ripoffs, sorry you got caught in one, hope they refund your money soon ...  If they don't have proof, a check, wire transfer details, etc, then you will need to follow up with your bank/Paypal/lawyer/etc to put the screws to them.  Or at least find a good trunk monkey for hire.


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#9 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 06:59 PM

I have a friend that lives in the area where they're located. He's been bugging me to come visit for a while. If I don't get the money back soon, I might have to go down there. ;-)
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#10 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 10:16 PM

I've got the new (used) engine on the way, and I've got most of the parts and tools that I'm going to need. My first question (of many, I'm sure) is, does anyone sell a universal engine eye lift bracket? The Ford brackets are almost $80 each.  Does anyone have any suggestions?



#11 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 12:26 AM

Anybody know what size bolts are needed to mount a 2010 3.5l engine to and engine stand?

#12 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 03:49 AM

Might want to  put in a call to Jeg's or Summit Racing to get that information.  I have been seeing use of Grade 8 bolts mentioned though, and bolts MEANT for automotive work.



#13 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 07:31 PM

For future reference, the bolts are grade 8 M10 - 1.5. They need to be about 2 inches longer than the bolts that hold the transmission. Also, they're a pain in the butt to find.

Next question, and I know this has been asked before in other threads, but I never really found a great answer. According to MOST of things I've read, the engine needs to come out through the bottom. That being said, I've noticed that after removing the upper and lower plastic cowls (at the bottom of the windshield) there is a piece of sheet metal that holds the wiper motor and a couple of other things. It appears that if I pull that piece of metal, there will be plenty of room to remove the engine from the top. Is there a reason that I shouldn't do this?
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#14 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 06:24 AM

Two questions I would have:  a) are you sure that metal piece is removeable, and B) is it critical to the body support points in anyway (like a beam in a home structure)?



#15 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 08:16 AM

I'm not sure if it's critical to the structure or not. Here's a pic.

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#16 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 10:11 AM

I'm not sure if it's critical to the structure or not. Here's a pic.

I am pretty sure it is part of the structure of the unibody.   I would also drop the engine down (engine, trans and subframe) all in one piece.


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#17 OFFLINE   Decojuicer

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 12:16 PM

I took a better look last night. It's actually plastic. I'm going to pull it off briefly today and see if it makes a difference. Worst case scenario, I have to put it back.
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