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FOB Troubles


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Hello everyone,

 

I own a 2013 Edge, and the FOB that came with the vehicle (used) was cracked and the keyless entry wasn't working. I recently purchased one from Amazon and took it into the dealership to get programmed. They told me it would program, but it would lose connection after a few minutes. Anyone else ever have this issue? as Winter is approaching, I would like to get my keyless entry working.

 

They did tell me that if I bought an OEM, they wouldn't charge me again for labor to program it, but that's $130...is that my only option here?

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Had the battery tested, and it was not bad at all. Did notice a tad amount of corrosion I believe he said, but the new one off Amazon would only stay programmed for a couple minutes. That's what confuses me about this. I've scoured these forums looking for anything that resembles my situation, but don't have a clue.

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I believe that I would clean the FOB contacts first, just to eliminate the FOB.

 

The fact that the car takes the programming and then doesn't retain the programming indicates that the RKE may be bad in the car.

 

I don't know if would help or not, think I would try pulling the RKE fuses for a few minutes and see if it resets the unit.

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The one that came with the vehicle I believe was the original key, but I'm not positive -- it has SA on it. That one quit working around the time I replaced the car battery. The second one which only stays programmed for a couple minutes is aftermarket off Amazon. It did not come with instructions, as the dealership or locksmith needs to program it since I don't have 2 keys.

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The one that came with the vehicle I believe was the original key, but I'm not positive -- it has SA on it.

The 2013 Edge uses an 80 Bit transponder-equipped key to communicate between the FOB and the remote receiver.

 

Strattec Corp is the only Ford authorized manufacturer of Ford 80 Bit IPATS key blanks. They also have SA stamped on the blade. (If if has HA on the blade it was manufactured by Huf, the only other authorized supplier, and is not an 80 Bit FOB).

 

If your replacment does not have a S or SA stamped on the blade, it should be regarded as a 40 Bit FOB, and will not work in your car.

.

Edited by enigma-2
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To program the fob portion of it you will need to do the key on/off 8 times trick.

 

http://www.keyfobprogram.com/ford-keyless-remote-key-fob-programming-instructions-1/

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't I need 2 working FOBs to manually program one? It went through the cycle, and the original FOB made the doors unlock/lock signifying programming, but nothing happened to either fob. So there must be something in the relay in the vehicle?

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't I need 2 working FOBs to manually program one? It went through the cycle, and the original FOB made the doors unlock/lock signifying programming, but nothing happened to either fob. So there must be something in the relay in the vehicle?

So it entered programming mode but pressing a button on either fob didn't make the vehicle respond by cycling the door locks?

 

Is the TPMS light on by chance?

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So, I'm not entirely sure what the actual issue is. Can you not program the fobs or do they disconnect all the time?

 

Here's the procedure I used for programming the button/fob portion of my IKTs.

 

Procedure :

 

1.Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on drivers door while it is open, insert key into ignition.

 

2.Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1)

 

(Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)

 

3.Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5.

 

4.Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes.

 

5.Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

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So I took it into the Dealership yesterday, and they got a reading off all the TPMS, and the tires were inflated correctly, but the light remains on. Now I'm really confused. Has to be something in the computer???

Did they retrain the sensor's? Simple procedure, the walk around to each wheel with a handheld device and it trains (teaches) the receiver to recognize each sensor). If one or more is not trained you will get this alarm. Edited by enigma-2
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I'm sorry I can't figure out this quote thing...but he walked around to each one with a tool and they all read. I asked him to find which one was throwing the error, if that's the same thing as training them? I've driven well over 200 miles since then. Thinking about unhooking my battery, and rehook it after awhile? Will that do anything?

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