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2010 water pump replacement


dat2109

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Our Edge started showing the tell tail signs of a waterpump problem and I was really dreading tearing it apart to find out. We dove into it yesterday and were able to confirm that indeed the waterpump let go. Got the new pump today and might start putting everything back where it goes.

 

Here is a video of what it looked like, at the end of the video you can see the coolant drip down the front into the oil pan.

https://youtu.be/19oPyOMDUh8

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I was curious of the coolant change interval too. The vehicle was fleet maintained to somewhere after 150k, and I am pretty confident it was changed at 105k and 150k as specified. I have doubts it was changed after that.

 

 

Also, I looked up fords coolant specs for these and see that the gen1's first came with the yellow coolant until 2010, then they changed over to dark green. Then it looked like around 2011 they again changed to orange. Does anyone know if the dealer would be forced to update you to the newest spec or could still do a service with the original coolant from your production date? This edge still had the Dark Green coolant in it and it looked great.

 

I refilled it with an OAT dex-clone - basically what the ford Orange is.

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Does anyone know if the dealer would be forced to update you to the newest spec or could still do a service with the original coolant from your production date?

My dealer checked my coolant during one of the oil changes and recommended I change immediately. (2009 MKX, gold coolant).

 

They will use the latest coolant whenever you do a change.

 

I do a change more often than the maintenance (100k & 150k) schedule to protect the water pump.

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Can you tell me why someone wouldn't replace the old phosphate/asian green with the new OAT Orange? And I dont mean mixing the two, replacement only.

I only know for a FACT that Ford says not to. Blurb from the product page on Orange

 

Use only when specified

- Approved to Ford Specification WSS-M97B44-D. Use when Ford Specification

WSS-M97B44-D is specified.

- Do not mix different colors or types of coolant in your vehicle. Make sure the correct coolant is used. Mixing of engine coolants may harm your engine’s cooling system. The use of an improper coolant may harm engine and cooling system components and may void the warranty.

- Do not use this product in systems originally equipped with the fluorescent green-colored Motorcraft® Premium Antifreeze/Coolant, approved to Ford Specification ESE-M97B44-A, or with the yellow-colored Motorcraft® Gold Antifreeze/Engine Coolant, approved to Ford Specification WSS-M97B51-A1, or with the dark green-colored Motorcraft® Specialty Green Engine Coolant, approved to Ford Specification WSS-M97B55-A.

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You are totally right! That text appears on their product pages for all their coolants, including the Gold product that TSB 09M04-S1 applies to (requiring it to be replaced with the Dark Green). I wont lie, I'm new to the edge eco system.

 

 

I'm confident the OAT dex-clone will be no trouble, its what was on hand. If I needed to make sure I got the 100% best stuff in there i too would go with the Peak Global Lifetime coolant its an OAT type with better corrosion inhibitor package. Some of the dexcool and dex-clone coolants might have corrosion inhibitors that dont like silicone or something or other.

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I remember that the service tech told me I had gold color coolant and they were suggesting going to green (think it was green). They said they had to drain, flush with water, then with a cleaner then flush with water again and finally a fill with the new coolant. Said they had to remove all traces of the old coolant. Something about the gold not offering adaquate protection due to corrosion. Mentioned water pump and heater core. This was around ~78k if I remember.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi. I begin to worry strongly, I noticed that my cooling liquid in a broad tank decreased, I made the image on the cold and hot engine. Now hard frosts-21 degrees Celsius, two days ago after the trip, I heard a light smell of cooling liquid after the parking, it was observed also in the summer few times. Strongly cooling liquid does not fall. In oil on the probe of traces of mixing it is not revealed. In a broad tank of traces of oil it is not revealed. In disorder of the engine of traces of leak of cooling liquid it is not revealed, perhaps it evaporated having got through an opening which is available for branch at breakage of a pomp. There are no errors of the P0016 computer. My run of 157,000 km (100,000 miles). Year of release of 2008. Whether damage of a pomp is possible? Surely at damage of a pomp there has to be P0016 error? When it is better for me to replace a pomp? It is recommended to me the management of WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). I can apply this cooling liquid further? Replacement of cooling liquid was made in 2017, it was 150,000 kilometers. Before cooling liquid was only added, the father-in-law of full replacement up to 150,000 kilometers was not made. What your opinion on replacement together with a pomp of chains of the gas-distributing mechanism, a natyazhitel and an uspokoitel of a chain?

I also studied this opinion    https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-edge-73/ford-edge-3-5-litre-v6-water-pump-30978/

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t32094_ds771098

Thanks.

P.S.: The first two images: on the cold engine
The second two images: on the hot engine.

image0707001.jpg

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Edited by EDST777
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Your pictures show that you have the gold colored antifreeze in the car.  Ford changed the specs to use their green fluid.  If you don't have antifreeze in the oil,  the pump could be leaking from the weep hole that can be seen on the top of the engine.  If you are loosing coolant you need to find the leak.  If you think it's the pump than do not postpone changing it because it is much cheaper than changing the engine.  The gold fluid doesn't have the ability to lubricate the seals on the pump.   My pump required changing at about the same mileage as yours.

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2 hours ago, PaulSchott said:

Your pictures show that you have the gold colored antifreeze in the car.  Ford changed the specs to use their green fluid.  If you don't have antifreeze in the oil,  the pump could be leaking from the weep hole that can be seen on the top of the engine.  If you are loosing coolant you need to find the leak.  If you think it's the pump than do not postpone changing it because it is much cheaper than changing the engine.  The gold fluid doesn't have the ability to lubricate the seals on the pump.   My pump required changing at about the same mileage as yours.

Did you change only a pomp? What condition of chains of the gas-distributing mechanism and an asterisk of VANOS was, I would like to recognize by another you put a set of TIMING CHAIN KIT Fits Ford Edge    

Картинки по запросу VANOS Ford edge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

or you replaced only a pomp and laying of valve covers. I would like to know an approximate state on this run of chains of the gas-distributing mechanism. Thanks.

 

Edited by EDST777
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  • 1 year later...

 Hi, someone knows where you can take the procedure for replacing the water pump, I am interested in the part of installing and removing the chains of extenders..., I want to try to do it on my own, in any case I would like to understand exactly how to install and remove the chains.
From the Youtube video, I realized that a replacement can be done without a special tool to hold the camshafts if I replace only the water pump. Is that so? Thanks.

Edited by EDST777
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  • 11 months later...

Hi. I plan to independently replace the pump or water pump, who better like the name. Now YouTube gives a lot of video on Ford EDGE, Exploer, Flex and I've looked through all the stages, it's possible to do it slowly on my own in two, three days, as I think, but I have some questions, ask your help experienced colleagues, any thoughts, so:
- everywhere it is indicated that it is necessary to fix distribution shafts with a special tool 303-1248, but this is very expensive for us, the cost of the tool reaches $300. At the same time, I have repeatedly observed that some people have replaced the pump without the 303-1248 tool and this is logical,... because when replacing the pump, you can use the marks on the main chain, the crankshaft sprocket mark and the marks on the VCT assembly.

I will not remove two auxiliary small chains, I will not twist and therefore the position of the camshafts will not change, I can think that I will do the same without a special tool 303-1248, before removing the main chain, turning the gas distribution mechanism clockwise to the desired position (to) marks?

 What are your thoughts, what is the function of the tool 303-1248 in this case, my thoughts that it is not necessary here, what are my risks of working without the tool, I hope the meaning of my questions is clear, I apologize for my English.

Edited by EDST777
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Get the tool.  Many alternatives available on Amazon, possibly RockAuto.  Don't have to get Ford/Motorcraft.  $30-35 USD typically. 

 

Yes it can be done without the cam holders, with regular tools.  Not sure exactly how, but many have done so.  Definitely do NOT advise doing the work without holding the cams in place.  Can't tell you how much time people have wasted by skipping this step, and how much of a headache it becomes.  Most owners are doing this type of work for the first time in their lives. Take that into consideration.

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23 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Get the tool.  Many alternatives available on Amazon, possibly RockAuto.  Don't have to get Ford/Motorcraft.  $30-35 USD typically. 

 

Yes it can be done without the cam holders, with regular tools.  Not sure exactly how, but many have done so.  Definitely do NOT advise doing the work without holding the cams in place.  Can't tell you how much time people have wasted by skipping this step, and how much of a headache it becomes.  Most owners are doing this type of work for the first time in their lives. Take that into consideration.

 

As always thank you for your professional advice...

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My local dealer always changes the timing chains and installs the new type guides. Says they are designed to take up slack but are stretched nonetheless and need changing. 

 

He drops the entire powertrain subassembly as its faster. (When I talked to them about it, believe they quoted around $1800). 

 

Talked about having it done as a preventive maintenance item and he said he'd recommend around 175,000 miles. Pumps they see failing are do to poor maintenance. 

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