Mikula Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 After installing my springs a week ago, i went to get an alignment today. when i initially researched, a lot of people said i would not need any camber bolts. that being said, the guy doing the alignment said they got it as best they could, and i still have about 2.5* negative camber in the rear. that's pretty out there as far as i'm concerned. front is about 1.7* negative. anyone else have specs like this? or is this alignment guy a maroon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roots57 Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 I still have the print out from the original alignment after the springs were put it, I'll find it and post the alignment numbers tomorrow. I do remember there being a slight negative camber in the rear wheels, you can actually see it if you are directly behind the car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 I still have the print out from the original alignment after the springs were put it, I'll find it and post the alignment numbers tomorrow. I do remember there being a slight negative camber in the rear wheels, you can actually see it if you are directly behind the car. Me too. If I can find it. My rear wasn’t out of alignment even after dropping the sub frame. The front was way off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Halstead Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 After installing my springs a week ago, i went to get an alignment today. when i initially researched, a lot of people said i would not need any camber bolts. that being said, the guy doing the alignment said they got it as best they could, and i still have about 2.5* negative camber in the rear. that's pretty out there as far as i'm concerned. front is about 1.7* negative. anyone else have specs like this? or is this alignment guy a maroon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikula Posted December 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 (edited) nick, my "after" rear camber is worse than your "before". i wonder if mine being AWD makes a difference. I'd like to see your other guys printouts if you find them! Edited December 2, 2017 by Mikula Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfbluenote Posted December 3, 2017 Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 Mikula...my specs after installing H&R springs 2 days ago. My Edge has only 6K miles on it, so you would think that it went in prior to install pretty much bone stock. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikula Posted December 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 i've got 7k on the clock on mine. the guy definitely didn't know what he was doing. after looking at those specs there is no reason i should be that far off. maybe i just need to suck it up and take it to the dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roots57 Posted December 3, 2017 Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 Here's my numbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfbluenote Posted December 4, 2017 Report Share Posted December 4, 2017 Here's how mine looks after install..I have to agree with other forum members that H&R got it dead right. The drop is just how I wanted it to be...And I am so impressed with the improvement in handling. I just got back from my favorite testing spot near where I live..its a traffic roundabout in the middle of nowhere. A constant radius circle with a diameter of about 150 feet and very little traffic use..so I was able to get on it and stay on it for 20 or so circles. Each time around I pushed a little harder until the main problem was lack of lateral support in my seat. The car was rock solid all the way..eventually little bit of tire squeal but the amount of grip I got was substantial. Also, the Pirrelli Scorpions that I have on at the moment now get a little more respect from me - they did ok actually. As soon as I get the Atturo 850's mounted I will get back out to the same spot and report back on the comparison. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikula Posted December 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2017 a little tip about handling. most car manufacturers have your tire pressure in a very low range for "comfort". check the side of the tire. find the max psi number. take off 5-10% and fill your tires to that. you'll notice your handling is much better. my 20" say 51psi max. I keep them at 44lbs or so and the ride isn't as "soft" but the handling is improved. Here's my numbers looks like your rear camber is like mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roots57 Posted December 4, 2017 Report Share Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) I run my tires on the top end for pressure too, I try to keep them at 45 psi. All the rear end numbers seem to show about 2+ degrees of negative camber, at least its negative and is probably better for cornering. Edited December 4, 2017 by roots57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikula Posted December 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2017 I run my tires on the top end for pressure too, I try to keep them at 45 psi. All the rear end numbers seem to show about 2+ degrees of negative camber, at least its negative and is probably better for cornering. WAY better for cornering! myself, i like the straight lines. BUT, I found out a few days ago that these edges oversteer, not understeer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikula Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Took it back to the alignment shop today to see if he could adjust my rear camber some more. I learned a few things. 1) the guy is an idiot. said there was no rear adjustment. i went out there and showed him where the adjustment was. he proceeded to tell me it would adjust the toe also, and that he liked the toe where it was, so he didn't want to touch it. that is not entirely true. yes adjusting the camber would slightly adjust the toe, but it still would not have been out of spec. but i'm not in the business of arguing with a rookie, so i will take it elsewhere to get it adjusted. 2) my first alignment was about 150 miles after the H&R springs install. after comparing that printout, and this printout (after having driven it for 900 miles after springs were installed) they settled more than i expected. My previous camber reading on the rear left was -1.48. after the spring settled it was now at -2.29 to those that say the springs don't settle, they are obviously wrong. maybe not all springs settle, but mine sure as hell did. also, i was told camber bolts were not needed in the front. however I will say this. If you would like your camber to be adjustable, and/or closer to 0.0 definitely buy the camber bolts from specialty products, part number 81280 for $25 on amazon. now i'm not an advocate of running 0.0 degree camber, but i wanted mine to be around -0.5 and there wasn't enough play to get there. with the camber bolts, i can actually get positive camber out of the front. and they were so cheap, i'd recommend to anyone to buy them and put them in while you're doing the springs. not like its any extra effort, you already have everything apart and the bolts removed. just swap it into the top strut bolt position and you're set. previous front reading was -1.5* and i had him bring it to -0.7 which was worth it to me 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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