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The most important part of an oil change


enigma-2

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Theory:

https://youtu.be/j-Wf4lRhILc

 

Conclusion:

https://youtu.be/WcMBbop_11k

 

Can buy the Neodymium magnets to trap steel particles here:

https://goo.gl/images/QWym5p

 

and the aluminum magnets here: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/387573/Office-Depot-Brand-Jumbo-Aluminum-Magnets/

 

(chuckle)

Edited by enigma-2
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I've never used magnets other than drain plugs with magnets that come with some vehicles. Sounds like using them could be helpful.

 

I do one thing that wasn't mentioned. I fill the new oil filter ( when possible ) . Some filters are on such an angle can't get much in them. Then you have the upside down filter :-( I figure the oil goes through the filter first before getting to the bearings, so if the filter is already full , it doesn't have to be filled by oil pump before getting to engine. May help illuminate dry start.

 

The filter on my Edge 3.5 is vertical so I can completely fill it.

 

I may be old school on this but that's the way I do it.

 

Larry

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If Amsoil was a sham why does it have such a good reputation amongst its users? BITOG has gone through the chemical analysis and it has great chemical properties and its been on the market for years. If it was snake oil it probably wouldn't have lasted this long under real world scrutiny.

 

Also, if it provides no better numbers than M-1 and you call it a sham, is then logically, is M-1 a sham also? I am not a user of Amsoil so I cannot offer any direct feedback but I think your assertion of it being a 'sham' is kinda' off base.

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The point was that if you belive all of the marketing crap behind AMSOIL or even Royal Purple, you are a fool. For example, Mobil 1 EP is an ester based oil, as is AMSOIL and RP. The same wear numbers and similar TBN's prove that the pricey "boutique" oils are NOT any more suited for wear protection or even deposit protection.

 

Any oils meeting the API SN or SNPLUS rating, as well as ILSAC GF-5, are excellent oils and the main differences between them is how LONG you can go for an OCI.

 

 

Remember folks: The best oil filter is a good air filter. (And don't buy a KN gauze garbage filter!)

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OK, now I understand. While your assertion is not that the actual oil is a sham, the claims they make are a sham. (thanks akirby for the clarification.) As I said, I am not an Amsoil user - I do, in fact, use Mobil-1 and have for many years on my current Edge and former 213k mileage Explorer. But I am of the belief, and have stated it in this forum, as long as you use a quality oil and change it at regular intervals, you'll probably be just fine. Heck, my dad swore by Ray-Lube and routinely got 150k+ out of our 60's and 70's family cars.

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The point was that if you belive all of the marketing crap behind AMSOIL or even Royal Purple, you are a fool. For example, Mobil 1 EP is an ester based oil, as is AMSOIL and RP. The same wear numbers and similar TBN's prove that the pricey "boutique" oils are NOT any more suited for wear protection or even deposit protection.

 

Any oils meeting the API SN or SNPLUS rating, as well as ILSAC GF-5, are excellent oils and the main differences between them is how LONG you can go for an OCI.

 

 

Remember folks: The best oil filter is a good air filter. (And don't buy a KN gauze garbage filter!)

 

I'd be willing to bet there is no significant difference between any oils you mention here and Walmart brand Supertech synthetic - that's why I've been using it for years and will continue to do so.

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I highly recommend using only conventional oil 15W40 in our 3.5L engines here in the U.S. :bliss: :bliss:

 

J/K!

 

As far as wearing similarly/wear numbers, "show me the money"! Does anyone on this forum post oil analysis data with usage details? Or do we assume what is good for one engine is good for all?

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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i've always believed that changing oil/filter every 5k miles with the cheapest oil is far better than changing at 10k miles with the most expensive oil. And if you are changing it that frequently, there is absolutely no difference in engine protection between the cheapest and the most expensive. Using Amsoil or Royal Purple at over 2x the price of Supertech every 10k miles is false economy, especially since I believe this is too long between oil changes no matter what you use. I'd use Supertech conventional but since their full synthetic is only $3 more for the 5 qt jug why not.

BMW and most on the BMW forums recommend Castrol Edge synthetic for my E90 328i every 15k miles. Ridiculous interval, I change it with Supertech synthetic every 5k and I am 100% confident what I do is far better for the engine, no matter how many BMW snobs are aghast someone would put Walmart brand oil in their BMW.

Edited by erikrichard
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