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Guest Message by DevFuse

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2011 EDGE AWD SQUIRRLY

awd

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20 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   jamesdeanblvd

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 02:03 PM

I've recently purchased a 2011 Ford Edge Limited AWD and the car itself i really like, but, the AWD is really acting strange.  My parents own a 2012 MKX AWD and it goes through snow and ice with no issues.  The Edge, on the other hand seems to be really squirrely.  When I purchased it, I drove it on dry ground and it handled and drove great.  When I drive it on roads that are the least bit slick, the back end feels like it is going to go around on me.  I have tried turning traction control off, and it didn't seem to make that much of a difference.  When I purchased it, the tires on front were newer than the ones on the rear, so, I thought that was the issue, so I replaced all 4 with new.  Thought problem was fixed, until this morning.  I was able to drive a whopping 30mph before things went crazy.  I've driven rear wheel drive vehicles (trucks and Mustangs) for 40 years, but, this is kind of insane.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.









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#2 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 03:02 PM

Probably a suspension/alignment issue.  I had the same thing going on with my 07 AWD till I replaced all struts/shocks/mounts.  No more RWD action for me LOL.  Trailing arms should also be checked, tho I have never seen them mentioned as an issue on this forum.

 

How many miles on your Edge?



#3 OFFLINE   jamesdeanblvd

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 03:06 PM

The Edge has about 135,000 on it.



#4 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 03:38 PM

def ripe for suspension upgrade then.



#5 ONLINE   enigma-2

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 06:29 PM

The Edge has about 135,000 on it.


It may also be a good idea to verify the the previous owner changed the plugs and fluids (especially the coolant). If you can't verify, would be best to do asap at these miles.

Old plugs (change at 90k) can draw too much current to jump the wide gap and overheat to coils, burning them out $$$. Old coolant loses its protection and can go acid or goo up the heater core.

I read on another forum where a dragging brake caused a awd problem. I would also imagine that a bad sensor could mess up the system.

Did you check for codes?
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#6 OFFLINE   jamesdeanblvd

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 08:16 PM

Great input.  Sounds like i should set up an appointment with the shop and have them look it over.  Hopefully I will get lucky and it will just need a suspension upgrade.  So far I enjoy driving the car, other than the handling on slick roads.  Its got it's querks like any used car you purchase.  Back up camera only works when it wants to, and the dome lights don't come on when you open a door.  Gremlins...



#7 OFFLINE   Waldo

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 08:09 AM

Probably just an alignment issue, too much toe-out in the rear will do exactly what you describe.  That would also explain the worn rear tires.


Edited by Waldo, 07 March 2018 - 08:09 AM.

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#8 OFFLINE   jamesdeanblvd

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 08:10 PM

Thanks again for the tips and advice.  I've got an appointment Friday for an Alignment and inspection.  I will start going through the fluid changes this weekend.



#9 OFFLINE   jamesdeanblvd

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 12:50 PM

Well.  Looks like alignment isn't going to get it..  They said the "bushings" in the rear were stuck and they need to be replaced.  Is that something that I can do, or, is that something I have to have Ford do it.



#10 OFFLINE   CTFordfan

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 03:27 PM

Suspension bushings are a pain to change out- now a days you can likely get the whole assembly, bushings included and replace the entire trailing arm.
Dont be tempted with the much lower cost of the bushings alone - the labor is tough and you may need a press.
Check rock auto.
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#11 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 07:25 PM

do you know which bushings they were referring to?  control arm bushings, shock related bushings, or ...?  just trying to figure out if they know what they are talking about.



#12 OFFLINE   jamesdeanblvd

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 09:27 PM

I left paperwork on desk. It said it was the bushings alignment rods go through. I've decided to let the local Ford dealership look at it. It's going to be costly, but, lives are at stake and I want it done right. Go there at 12:30 tomorrow.
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#13 OFFLINE   Tacyon

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 09:16 AM

Alignment vs bushings .. might still be alignment and seized bushings are preventing them from adjusting.  I've owned a 2011 and now a 2013, the 2013 was feeling very squirrely on me but just in the snow and heavy rain. Hard to describe but when the vehicle leaned (keyword there, think weight shift) into a turn, even a gentle turn at 50+ it felt like the rear end could very easily come around on me. I to suspected alignment and sure enough, front was out slightly, but the back was toe out 2` or more. The first thing the guy said was, "so before we get going, lets see if the bushing will even allow me to adjust them. The seize up often and if so, we're better off just replacing the control arms."  So he'd run into this before. Also, if you run out of adjustment room, Ford has a replacement part that has to be installed to allow for more adjustment.

Oh and the difference in handling was night and day. Zero feeling of the rear end wanting to come around on me in turns.

 

p.s. another telltale sign that this is alignment is the inside shoulder of the tires where the sidewall meets the tread will be wore more than the outside edge. (for toe out)


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#14 OFFLINE   jamesdeanblvd

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 10:47 AM

Taycon, that is exactly what they said!  They said the bushings were seized and wouldn't allow them to align the rear completely.  And it feels just like that.  Driving down the road at 40 and then you hit even the slightest difference in road conditions with a tad bit of snow and ice and it feels like its coming around.  I was supposed to go today to Ford, but, we are merging business systems this weekend, so I cancelled and am going to reschedule next week.  Plus, the shop I was going to take it to initially, moved, and I thought they closed, so, I am going to contact them early am Monday.  They are a mile from my work, so, that would be way too convenient and they aren't the price gougers the local Ford dealer is.  Seems like everyone I've talked to at work says go to this shop because of their reputation as being fair and quality work.    



#15 OFFLINE   CTFordfan

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 04:47 PM

Take it to the local shop. Suspension work should be pretty straightforward for any decent mechanic.
And as already stated get the entire control arm with the bushings already installed. Then it is r and r and an alignment.
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#16 OFFLINE   Tacyon

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 06:22 PM

jamesdeanblvd - I concur on CTFordfan's comments. It's not rocket science.

 

And the mechanic that I'd had my conversation with owned his own business (franchise) called Tuffy Auto Services Center. They're all over the place.



#17 OFFLINE   Special_K

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Posted 19 March 2018 - 08:09 AM

Snmjim check this thread out



#18 OFFLINE   GT Owner

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 01:13 AM

Straight from Chilton:

Note: ON AWD models, the manufacturer uses an Active Torque Control Coupling (ATCC) to manage power distribution to the front and rear wheels. Normally, the front wheels receive the majority of the torque produced by the engine. When the ATCC system senses wheel slip, it automatically increases the torque to the rear wheels. The system is always active, continuously monitoring vehicle conditions and adjusting the torque being delivered to the rear wheels by controlling the current sent to an electric clutch device inside the rear axle. The ATCC system has no mode selector nor does it require any driver input. The ATCC solenoid in the rear axle is not repairable and must be replaced with the rear axle assembly as a unit. I agree with the above alignment and suspension rubber upgrades. Polyurithane bushings have a good record.


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#19 OFFLINE   akirby

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 08:23 AM

Just to be clear, the coupling itself doesn’t sense slip. The PCM senses slip via the wheel speed sensors and electronically triggers the coupling as needed. It also triggers the coupling if it thinks wheel spin may occur such as a hard launch or accelerating while turning. It also uses a yaw sensor and steering wheel angle as inputs.
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#20 OFFLINE   GT Owner

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 09:32 PM

The PCM sends an activate signal to the ATCC Relay Module. Thr Relay Module supplies energizing voltage (12 Volts) to the ATCC.







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