chefduane Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 I intend to remove the rear emblem from my '11 LTD (Gen 1.5) and plasti-dip it. The chrome ring around the emblem has pretty much peel off completely. I know how to get it removed and painted and all, but I have questions about placing it back on the hatch. I know it just sticks on with double sided tape but will removing it necessitate replacing the double sided adhesive? If so, what kind of tape/adhesive did you all use? If I just stick it back on will it be secure enough to STAY on? Also, I would like to use flat back plasti-dip. Does plasti-dip require putting a sealer over it? Our Texas sun can really beat the heck out of painted finishes and I am wondering of I should use a UV resistant sealer over the plasti-dip. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLinNBC Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Many logos and even body trim parts from all mfr's (as well as large portions of your appliances) are now permanently assembled using adhesive transfer tape and double sided adhesive foam tape exclusively from a family of products provided by 3M: the VHB (for Very High Bond) line. Very effective, very expensive (only as a material cost, long term they save a ton of money on assembly as well as failure and service rates). There are a huge variety of products with very specific requirements (substrate, shear strength spec, age and operating temp etc) such that you really want to know which specific product was used in the first place. This is not a Gorilla glue does all kinds of application. Further, if and when you define exactly which 3M VHB product you require, buying less than a case from a 3M industrial/automotive dealer is a real problem. A single roll of 1/2" x 50yd of a mid-grade VHB dble sided foam is about $60 and up. 72 rolls per case. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 OK, thanks for the info but maybe a bit too in-depth for my question. I just need to know once I remove the emblem, will the existing adhesive tape be sufficient to stick it back on and keep it on. If not, I can find something that will. I just wanted to know if anyone had done this already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roots57 Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) You will need to replace the adhesive. When you use fishing line and a heat gun/hairdryer to remove the emblem, the adhesive tape will get destroyed and you will have to clean it up before applying the new tape. You can buy small rolls of VHB heavy duty 3M double sided adhesive tape from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JR4D7AA/ref=psdc_15710291_t1_B002JOVUO0 Edited April 3, 2018 by roots57 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Roots, thanks. That's the info I was looking for. I know that Gorilla makes a double sided spongy tape but wasn't completely comfortable in deciding to use it. I ordered a roll of the 3m VHB tape. Any advice on possibly needing a sealer or UV resistant top coat on plasti-dip? I'm thinking maybe not but as I mentioned, our Texas sun can beat the heck out of car finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roots57 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 I only used plasti-dip on my rear badges, I prefer vinyl wherever possible. My advice on using plasti-dip is to make sure its nice and warm outside and make sure the plasti-dip can is brought up to temp as well. If its too cold, it will come out like snot and the finish will be really orange-peel. I applied like 5 or 6 coats of black and then 3 or 4 coats of the glossifier to make it look more like real paint. My badges still look great after more than a year of washes and SoCal sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roots57 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 I'm removing my AVS Aeroskin hood protector if anyone wants it, its still in perfect condition. I'll even re-apply it with new 3M adhesive tape too, just need to pay for shipping ($20-$25 I'm thinking) and its yours. Brand new they cost about $65 +tax & shipping, PM me if anyone is interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikula Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Roots, thanks. That's the info I was looking for. I know that Gorilla makes a double sided spongy tape but wasn't completely comfortable in deciding to use it. I ordered a roll of the 3m VHB tape. Any advice on possibly needing a sealer or UV resistant top coat on plasti-dip? I'm thinking maybe not but as I mentioned, our Texas sun can beat the heck out of car finishes. May I ask why you are removing it? Plasti-dip is a great tool, because you don't need to remove the emblem at all. Just tape a square around the emblem, put your coats of plasti-dip on it, remove the tape after the last coat. let it dry, then just peel it away. Any small areas that the plasti-dip gets into can be removed with a toothpick. no hassle of getting the emblem off and back on again. do NOT put anything over the plasti-dip. it defeats the purpose of the plasti-dip and usually messes up the finish. I live in central texas and use plasti-dip quite often. 20k miles on my harley and my front forks have been plasti-dipped the whole time with zero issues. I had the wheels plasti-dipped for approximately 11k miles and they still looked great when I finally took the plasti-dip off. With that being said, after that period of time, the dip wasn't "peeling" like it was supposed to. to fix that issue, i sprayed 2 more coats on top of the previous coats, waited for it to dry, and it peeled no problem. here is a how to, showing you that there is no need to remove the emblem: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted April 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Well you know, I suppose I don't have to actually remove the emblem. I just figured it would be easier to remove it and plasti it then re mount it. I've watched a few vids on removing it and it doesn't look that difficult so that's why I decided to do it that way. But in seeing how easily plasti-dip is removed I may re-think removing the badge. hmmm.... It would require masking off the rear hatch but I suppose that's not that difficult to do. I do think that I will use the plasti-dip glossifier however. The Tux Black really looks great after being washed and waxed and I'm thinking that a round oval of flat black might detract from that look. Thanks for responding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikula Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 It would require masking off the rear hatch but I suppose that's not that difficult to do. Keep in mind, there is not much overspray when using dip, so you don't need to go crazy on the masking part of it. good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roots57 Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 May I ask why you are removing it? I don't have anything bad to say about it, it definitely protects the leading edge of the hood well. I'm just done with it, I have a new plan for a hood wrap design and the aeroskin protector is in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted April 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 I finally got the rear emblem Plasti-Dipped and it looks great. I also used some Glossifier to make it shine. I eventually decided to remove it from the hatch to avoid any issues with overspray. Pretty simple with some super duper Harbor Freight trim removal tools I have. I used some of the 3M adhesive tape mentioned above to re-stick it on. I think its pretty secure. I like the blacked out look much better than the fading and peeling chrome that surrounded the oval. Thanks for everyone's input. I'm pleased with how it came out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Shit man, you shoulda just scuffed, painted and cleared it if you had it off the car. Plastidip always starts looks like ass after a while. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted April 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 If it does start to look bad, I can always do that. I paint matched and clear coated my front grill and am experienced with how to do it. If it starts to 'look like ass after a while' I'll fix it. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.