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DIY oil changes


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#21 OFFLINE   Snox801

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Posted 15 September 2018 - 06:54 PM

That is a good deal. Plenty of good oils. I think if you pick a good one and change it on time with a good filter you are gonna be just fine. Only issues Ive ever seen on ecoboosts because of oil is guys running either cheap oil and going past the service light by a bit.
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#22 OFFLINE   tk2fast

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Posted 16 September 2018 - 09:13 AM

 

Granted this is 5w20 data, but you can see it at mactgarage.com under the Oil Analysis section.

https://docs.google....#gid=1379600026

 

 

Really don't understand "Bill's Ranking" in his oils comparison spreadsheet.  He says he uses the data from Blackstone Labs that contain specifics around additives, flashpoints, viscosity ect. But his actual methodology is not clear at all to me. Especially when one oil gets an A+ and another a D based only on the additives in the product. Where is the "real world" application and analysis? Am I missing something? Any thoughts?



#23 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 01:11 AM

Based primarily on analysis data easily available to the public, and cost per quart of the product.  Base stock analysis is much more expensive and so we have to go by the marketing terminology of conventional / synthetic blend / full synthetic.  Which in the U.S. is = muddy waters at best.  The goal is engine longevity and operational smoothness over time while minimizing major repairs.

 

How can you expect real-world analysis?  You have to source UOA reports from BITOG for example.  Or you can simply ask Blackstone or read their published findings.  Is that third-party data trustworthy data?  You make the call.  Bill has published about the most one person can, documenting every oil change with an oil analysis.


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#24 OFFLINE   tk2fast

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 01:15 PM

So Red Line is rated highest because it costs the most and has the highest levels of anti wear and cleansing additives. 



#25 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 06:50 PM

Sure if you want to look at it that way :)  But it is rated highest because it has the highest levels of antiwear and detergents, but also very likely the best base stock.  They have been ester-based for as long as I can remember.  I don't know of anyone in the list of oils tested that claims to be ester base stock.  They will say "high quality synthetic base stock" and leave it at that.


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#26 OFFLINE   IWRBB

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 01:48 PM

I did some research years back and went with Redline in my 03 Cobra's engine.  Been in there forever too.  When you only go thru two tanks of gas in a year...

 

Everything else I own that is four stroke gets Walmart's Supertech house brand full synthetic 5W30.  


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#27 OFFLINE   Snox801

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 02:17 PM

i wouldnt put to much stock in oil data as far as stocks and bases. If we have learned anything it should be that just because the data sheet says it should be good doesnt mean it will. Its like all the things that are engineered to be unbreakable that break. Somewhere in that mess the real world meets theory and sometimes results are not what we think. I e always said take a long look into what your needs are and find a product or oil that will accomplish that. Usually one product will not cover everything the same.
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#28 OFFLINE   Platinum White

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Posted Yesterday, 09:36 AM

Mobil1 with Motorcraft filter is what I've been using since around 3-4000 miles.

Unless you have a way to know the exact amount of oil that comes out, it usually takes me a few days to get the oil at the full mark, which is the top hole. Usually after the oil change I'll get it on a flat service & wait about 30-40 minutes to check the level (to make sure that it's around the full mark & safe to drive) & then drive around. 1sr thing in the morning before the 1st drive, i check the oil again & add if necessary & repeat until the dipstick reads full after sitting over night.
With the turbo & all the lines, it'll take a good 30-40 minutes for 'most' of the oil to work its way back to the pan. Usually, if you let it sit over night, then it should have enough time to work it's way back down to the pan. Better to add tiny amounts than bigger amounts & risk over filling.

I believe that the 2.0 requires nearly 6 quarts of oil according to the manual (which i don't have in front of me).

1 thing also to consider is a catch can. I don't know your climate & it really seems to work best (or catch the most contaminants) in temps below freezing. I've caught A Lot of blow by & contaminants with my Catch Can over the last year since it was installed. Most recently, i drained it with around 2,000 miles since i last drained it & it caught a fairly decent amount considering the mileage. To note, last summer, it barely collected anything, maybe a few drops during an oil change (5,000ish miles). Once the temps went below freezing, it started collecting more.
http://www.fordedgef...-74#entry184115


Edited by Platinum White, Yesterday, 10:22 AM.


#29 OFFLINE   Platinum White

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Posted Yesterday, 10:22 AM

I took my catch can off of my 2009 3.5 Edge before trading for a 2017 Titanium 2.0.  

Could you please provide some pictures and narrative on installing a CC on a 2.0.  Thanks in advance.



#30 ONLINE   lildisco

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Posted Yesterday, 11:10 AM

I took my catch can off of my 2009 3.5 Edge before trading for a 2017 Titanium 2.0.  
Could you please provide some pictures and narrative on installing a CC on a 2.0.  Thanks in advance.


Pretty sure if you search my username & catch can, you can find it quite easily, but here you go:
http://www.fordedgef...ecoboost/page-2
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