For those of you starting with a used car, please take the proper precautions and steps in getting your Edge Sport up to date on services, fluids, tires, brakes, and general overall condition. Once again, we cannot stress enough how important it is that preventive maintenance is done before anything else. If the car is not up to the task to run efficiently, why would you put more power into it?
Before you start: Goals and Patience
Lay out what you want to do to your car. Put it on paper. This way you will be able to come back to what your original plan was and the reasons why you wanted to do it. You can make adjustments later as needed.
Your goals might be to get 10-20 more horsepower and add a few accessories for style and that's it. Some of you might want to go all out with a big turbo build, a suspension setup, bla bla bla. Either way, sit down and put a plan together. Think about why you want certain parts and why you don't. Think about and research the effects your parts will have on the car. Our philosophy is if it's not above average workmanship and quality, it's probably not worth buying. Do your research like looking at pictures on a google search, finding results from other enthusiasts, and asking others what their experiences have been. However, be careful who you ask and information sources you trust. There are people out there that criticize a part after they install with the wrong tools, didn't follow the directions, and used faulty parts to replace the parts they broke that came in the kit. Then all of a sudden it's the manufacturers fault. DO YOUR RESEARCH and trust your research, not others' opinions!!!
Patience is really directly related to the amount of money you are spending and can spend at once. Patience is absolutely necessary when you are on a budget, there are many tempting parts out there because of their price. I'm not saying there are not inexpensive parts that work well, but I truly believe you get what you pay for. I can't tell you how many stories I have heard and still hear about cracked this and failed that. Underdeveloped, poorly manufactured, and cheap material will break or fail prematurely at some point. Failure is not the only reason why cheap parts aren't smart, they often underperform other comparable parts that are developed and tested thoroughly.
The order of mods below isn't very important , but it is important to have many of them before moving on to the next progressive mod. You don't have to follow it exactly but use this as a guide. Many people have taken similar paths as you will with variations. Of course, you can always ask us what we think in a PM or in another thread. We might be able to make good suggestions.
This will be a living document and forever changing. Please feel free to add input below and I will keep the OP updated !
If you post a part, please include part name, part number, and a link if there is a specific site it has to be bought from!
- Tune 87, 93 & E30
This is probably the most important and most effective upgrade possible. These days, newer model cars are under strict guidelines from emissions regulation to get the most gas mileage they can and to reduce emissions as much as possible. Once you start adding parts, the settings that the ECU came from the factory with don't work for all the additional airflow present with all these parts. The ECU will actually start to detune the car naturally because of all the changes in airflow and combustion. With this said, you must make the ECU learn to work with the parts that you have. There are tons of benefits to getting your ECU tuned. You can really start to play with the boost settings, timing, fuel, and many more things. You can make your car extremely efficient under normal driving conditions like the factory originally wanted and make it scream once you put your foot to the floor. You can monitor all the important sensors of the vehicle and make sure the car is running smoothly and also see why it's not. There aren't a ton of ECU tuning options out there for the Edge Sport but the one that is out there is awesome. The SCT X4 had a major impact on accessibility to tuning these ECUs. Make no mistake, at this point, it's a very good idea to tune the ECU. We highly recommend getting the SCT X4 as the first modification in this stage. It's a scalable upgrade that works better and better as you keep modifying. We can't say enough about it.
- 87, 91, 93 , E30
- Livernois Motorsports
- 87, 91, 93, 100, ms109
- Drop-in Intake filters
This is the easiest and most effective first modification which is why it's so popular. Making power is all about more airflow and better efficiency. Plan on a slight increase hp and slightly more torque from this drop in part. It's as simple as opening the airbox, and putting the new filter in. No need to put the car on a lift or jacks. Just open up the hood, get a few basic tools and you're good to go. Along with adding some nice less-restricted airflow.
- K&N Part number: 33-5000
- aFe Dry flow - Nick Halstead to provide further info
Most tuners will request that you install a cooler aftermarket thermostat to keep the engine cooler. There are no negative side affects that have been reported as of yet. Not a hard install but does require some mechanical experience. Read More At: http://www.fordedgef...e-sport/page-3)
- 170 Degree thermostat: http://www.unleashed...ree-thermostat/
- 160 Degree LMS thermostat: https://www.livernoi...uct/LPP2358-160
- Rear Motor Mount
Some people will tell you this is the first modification you should do. Although I can understand why they say that, just make sure you don't mod crazy without it. The factory Ford mounts are crap. The bushings are a really weak and squishy rubber. This is GREAT for maximum comfort and eliminating noise, vibration, and harshness which is what the general population wants when they are driving to work and back home. But you are reading this because you want more performance out of your Edge Sport. An upgraded RMM will hold your engine in place much better while accelerating, shifting, and quickly decelerating. It will also keep the car more stable driving and shifting on rougher roads and more aggressive driving. The positive feedback given to the driver is instantly and significantly improved with this part. Installation does require you (or someone else) to get under the car or put it on a lift. It is not accessible without getting underneath the car somehow. However, once you're under the car, it's about as easy as pie. Remove a few bolts, take the old mount out, put the new mount on, and retighten the bolts with a little loctite and you're off to the races. Read More At: http://www.fordedgef...r +motor +mount
- CP-e: https://cp-e.com/sho...ar-motor-mount/
- uses 60 duro and increase NVH very little in the cabin
- Ultimate Performance: https://ultimateperf...rformance-parts
- uses 70 duro and there is a lot of NVH translated from the engine
There aren't too many options here yet sadly. The stock Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) is not only very restrictive and super small but it also suffers tremendously from heat soak. Your engine is generating very hot temperatures underneath the hood and the FMIC is the recipient of some of the heat. We all know that the cooler you can keep the intake temperatures the more power you can make and keep the motor safe at the same time. An upgraded FMIC like UP's or CXracing's will create much more area for the air to cool down before it enters the engine. They also allow much more air to flow in general. It does stay cooler than the stock TMIC because it takes longer for the intercooler to heat up, negatively affecting intake temperatures. But it also takes longer for it to cool down once it heats up because of the extra mass of the intercooler. Upgrading the FMIC is a great improvement to flow and cooling overall. Your intake temperatures will stay much more consistent and cooler which ultimately yields more power and safer power. Read More At: http://www.fordedgef...-sport/page-10)
- IC Cold/Outlet
This modification is the the pipe that connects the intercooler to the throttle body. You will be blown away after seeing how small and skinny the stock inlet pipe is compared to ANY upgraded inlet pipe. On top of that, it's plastic and dinky. You won't see a ton of power from this part, although some, but you will need it if you want to keep the mods coming.Install requires taking at. For the first time installer it can be a little tricky but nothing that a novice can't figure out if you have ever turned a wrench. Read More At: http://www.fordedgef...18-edge-sport/)
- Ramfab outlet pipe: Ramfab27@gmail.com
This part will not yield power but typically has 2 major uses. The first use is it's cool factor (who doesn't like to hear PSHHHHHHH). Second, it is absolutely functional and necessary to be working properly once you get more power or crank up the boost. The stock bypass valve has been known to leak slightly when adding more airflow. It doesn't make sense to add more parts and increase the power levels of the car when the stock bypass valve won't be able to even hold the extra air at high boost and RPM's. Read More At: http://www.fordedgef...6-sport-27-bov/
- Turbosmart: TS-0203-1281
- Modified Turbos (Thread: http://www.fordedgef...oboost/page-11)
- BNR: Will provide link later
- CTI rebuilt turbos that work with stock tune
- Turbo blankets
- Comp Turbos: They are not on the web site call and ask for Ernie
- Upgraded throttle body
- Stage3 Motorsports:https://www.stage3motorsports.com/1894-2015-2017-mustang-2-3L-EcoBoost-BBK-65mm-power-plus-throttle-body.html)
- Catch can
The function of a catch can is very simple. When an engine is running, there is a very small amount of the combustion gases (exhaust) inside of the cylinder that end up getting past the piston and head instead of exiting out of the exhaust system. In order to remove that exhaust, known as "blow-by", car manufacturers have systems that take that blow-by and recirculate it back into the intake system so that it doesn't escape into the atmosphere. It keeps the environment cleaner but it also causes all that blow-by to pass back through your intake system and brings a lot of oil with it, leaving behind a lot of oil and buildup along the inside of the entire intake system including your intakes pipes, turbo, intercooler, and intake manifold. This happens very slowly and over time but eventually your motor becomes less powerful and not as safe because of the effects this has on the intake air after long periods of time. An oil catch can intercepts this blow-by before it goes into the intake. After it collects enough, you remove it, empty it out, and put it back on. This is a must at some point if you want to have your car running like a top at all times. Read More at: http://www.fordedgef...atch-can/page-2
- MRT Axleback
- Throttle Response:
- JMS PedalMax: http://www.jmschip.com/ford-vehicles/
Sonnax Zip Kit 6F50-ZIP targets the root cause of multiple concerns by sealing critical circuit pressure losses in the Ford 6F50 and 6F55 valve bodies. The kit contains uniquely designed parts to prevent the loss of pressures within the main line, clutch apply control, solenoid feed and lockup control circuits. The kit also seals multiple circuits known to suffer from end plug leakage or poor checkball sealing. No special tools are required for installing these parts.
- Camber bolts
- ACDELCO: P/N: 45K18052
- Front cross brace
- (TTCR-II): ebay
- H&R p/n 28759-2
- Rear Swaybar
- ADDCO Part # 2452 1.125
- Whiteline lateral locks
- CarID Product Page
- Lateral locks from McMasters
- Discussion on aftermarket lateral locks in the sway bar thread starts here:
- Rotora Brakes 4, 6and 8 piston: These brakes retain the electric Parking brake.
- CNC IC grill (FEF resource)
- Email Spencer for the grill email@example.com
- CNC IC grill (FEF resource)
- Dash Kits : Wood or Carbon
Edited by Special_K, 23 August 2018 - 01:43 PM.