brake.turn.gas Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 Recently got a new to me 2015 Edge Sport. Having an issue determining the Motorcraft part number for the front and rear rotors. It's the wife's ride, so just keeping it stock DD. RockAuto calls out a couple different types: MOTORCRAFT NBRR112 Info Rear; High Level Service Design MOTORCRAFT BRRF317 {#BRRF251} Info Rear; OE Design (Only 5 Remaining) MOTORCRAFT NBRR56 Info Front; High Level Service Design; w/ 17 In. Front Vented and Solid Rear MOTORCRAFT BRRF316 {#BRRF250, F2GZ1125E} Info Front; w/ 18 In. Front Vented and 17 In. Solid Rear MOTORCRAFT BRRF249 {#E1GZ1125E} Info Front; OE Design; w/ 17 In. Front Vented and Solid Rear (Only 2 Remaining) MOTORCRAFT BRRF315 {#BRRF249} Info Front; OE Design; w/ 17 In. Front Vented and Solid Rear Rears are easy enough, but what is with the callout for 18" or 17"? Is there a guide for servicing the pads and rotors on the Gen2...i.e. torque specs, any specialty tools needed? Also, I didn't see anything regarding jack stand spots. I see the lifting points are on the pinch weld, so planning to pick up a jack adapter (hockey pucks not readily available at my house - well, not ones that aren't signed) Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 the 18/17 references are to wheel size not rotor size. there are a few members here who have replaced brakes already, I am sure they will pipe up soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 the 18/17 references are to wheel size not rotor size. there are a few members here who have replaced brakes already, I am sure they will pipe up soon Wonder what the reference to "Front; w/ 18 In. front Vented and 17 In. solid Rear" is all about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brake.turn.gas Posted May 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 So I went ahead and ordered the Helm manual... ok CD. Answers incoming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brake.turn.gas Posted June 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 Went up to the stealership to get confimation and pick up the parts since I need to knock this project out. Here are the part #s they gave me for my 2015 sport, per my vin: Front rotor - K2GZ 1125 B (interchange with BRRF364) Front pads - DG9Z 2200 F (interchange with BRF1474) Rear rotor - E1GZ 2C026 E (interchange with BRRF317) Rear pads - F2GZ 2001 H (interchange with BRF1552) Per the Helm manual - torque specs Front: Caliper bracket - 111 lb.ft. (150 Nm) Has a picture of a trashcan for the bolts, but doesn't say to discard the bolts. Caliper guide pins - 41 lb.ft. (55 Nm) Rear: Caliper bracket - 66 lb.ft. (90 Nm) Manual calls out to discard the bolts. Caliper guide pins - 21 lb.ft. (28 Nm) Didn't see the callout to replace the caliper bracket bolts, so it's back to the stealership. I've never replaced caliper bracket bolts on any brake job I've done, but to be on the safe side I will replace them. I will report back once I've got it buttoned up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 (edited) If you're going to do it, why not go with a quality brand like Centric for Rotors & either Hawk or another quality ceramic pads? If you're already replacing the brakes, then the OEM isn't for you. I replaced the OEM rotors & pads on my non sport 2nd gen with Centric Rotors & Z23 Evolution pads & i have much less brake dust & better stopping power. Unless you damage the caliper bracket when you remove it, there's no need to replace it. Edited June 7, 2018 by lildisco 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brake.turn.gas Posted June 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 If you're going to do it, why not go with a quality brand like Centric for Rotors & either Hawk or another quality ceramic pads? If you're already replacing the brakes, then the OEM isn't for you. I replaced the OEM rotors & pads on my non sport 2nd gen with Centric Rotors & Z23 Evolution pads & i have much less brake dust & better stopping power. Unless you damage the caliper bracket when you remove it, there's no need to replace it. If it were mine I agree, but it's the wife's ride and she insists on 'stock' parts...yeah I know - she probably wouldn't know the difference. We got the car with 27,xxx miles and the rotors just look hammered. Pads are about 1/2 remaining in the front, 1/4 remaining in the rear. Car stops fine, no vibration or noise. Haven't had it apart, but I'm guessing they are the factory pads/rotors. The caliper bracket bolt thing is odd. Like I said - never replaced them on any brake job I've done. Nonetheless, the manual does callout to replace the rears. Part number for the front indicates 1-time use. Even the dealer says loctite them and call it a day. From the manual - Remove the bolts and position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Discard the bolts.Torque : 66 lb.ft (90 Nm) Front caliper bracket bolt - W715623S439 Rear caliper bracket bolt - W715624S439 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 It'd probably be cheaper too! My wife noticed the difference right away, she knew i wasn't going to go OEM. There's also the added bonus of much much less brake dust. On my SEL, there was no need to take the caliper bracket off. The caliper just rests on it. I believe that the front rotors & pads were under $200 & they have a black coating on them that resists corrosion. But to each their own 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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