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Oil consumption 5W-20 PETROCANADA, easy spots on a valvate cover?


EDST777

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Friends, I would like to ask a question about an oil consumption. The third year I use Petrocanada 5W-20 oil. Oil and the original filter I change each 8000 kilometers. Good oil, but is one shortcoming: there is an Oil consumption (expense, oil evaporation), that is on each 300 kilometers I add about 50 grams of oil. At a forum on oils, I heard that at given oil there is such shortcoming as Oil consumption(expense, oil evaporation). I want to learn your opinion who else has Oil consumption (expense, oil evaporation), is normal process on the engine 3.5 Duratec?
Also has noticed that near spark plugs on a valvate cover of the engine, easy oil spots began to appear recently, it is possible isn't a problem, but I would like to pay your attention to it and to learn your opinion? I will show it on the attached image. Thanks.

p.s.: exhaust gases go without impurity, that is there are no traces of a soot and gray smoke, oil clean, without impurity, darkens only in use in process of the development. My style of driving now such that I don't lift engine speed higher than 2500 revolutions per minute
, therefore it can't be the cause too. Spark plugs I changed for 100 000 kilometers, 153 000 kilometers now.

 

 

 

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Edited by EDST777
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also there are no impurity in cooling liquid, it clean, that is oil doesn't get to cooling liquid and vice versa color of oil of the engine says that cooling liquid doesn't get to the engine. Somebody else adds oil to the engine in such portions as I 50-100 grams on 300 - 500 kilometers of a way?

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Over a quart in 5,000 miles, that is not normal with ANY quality oil - conventional, synblend or full synthetic, for these engines. Have you pulled the COPs and plugs? More than likely it is a valve cover gasket or a spark plug tube seal leak. Surprised there is no misfire issue. Have you checked codes? Any leaks from Bank 1 (firewall side)?

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Over a quart in 5,000 miles, that is not normal with ANY quality oil - conventional, synblend or full synthetic, for these engines. Have you pulled the COPs and plugs? More than likely it is a valve cover gasket or a spark plug tube seal leak. Surprised there is no misfire issue. Have you checked codes? Any leaks from Bank 1 (firewall side)?

Thanks.

1. Coils of spark plugs (COP) and plug

I didn't take yet, the last time I did it on 100 000 kilometers when changed plugs

. I will make it to look at their state and to understand whether there is a problem there. Thanks.

2. To understand what condition of Bank 1, I will take the probe and I will try to examine them a valve cover which is covered with an intake manifold. Or it is better for me to remove an intake manifold? What your opinion? Especially as I should make it if I need to examine plugs

and COP for Bank1. What your opinion?

And still, if I don't define a problem at survey of coils, then it will speak about a problem of a valve cover? I try to find the optimum scheme of definition of a problem, and I come to a conclusion that first of all I should check all plugs and COP, I correctly act?

I saw errors of the computer, the mistakes relating to this problem it isn't revealed. There is a mistake which arose at removal of the accumulator, there is an audio system error, it because I disconnected a loop of a MP3 changer, is an error of a passenger seat which arises because I lay down a light load sometimes on passenger sitting. That's it. I will attach a log of my file. Thanks.

 

p.s/is attached survey of COP and plugs of BANK1.

On video

there are no oil spots, externally everything is normal.

engDTC18-06-2018.txt

eng18-06-2018.txt

Edited by EDST777
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I suppose you could get a probe to examine the rear valve cover (bank 1) without removing the intake manifold, to look for similar oil leak issues, but it would be easier to take the manifold off since you need to check the spark plugs to give you a comparison with spark plugs from bank 2. But it looks like no leaks on bank 1 from your video. Most likely you would get an oil smell in the cabin if there were a leak on bank 1, unless it is slow enough.

 

Will check the logs soon.

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I suppose you could get a probe to examine the rear valve cover (bank 1) without removing the intake manifold, to look for similar oil leak issues, but it would be easier to take the manifold off since you need to check the spark plugs to give you a comparison with spark plugs from bank 2. But it looks like no leaks on bank 1 from your video. Most likely you would get an oil smell in the cabin if there were a leak on bank 1, unless it is slow enough.

 

Will check the logs soon.

Thanks for your professional help. I will check Bank2 plugs, I incline also now to opinion that the problem in Bank2, and most likely with COP because spots of oil are localized around them in Bank2, the second possible cause can be laying of a valvate cover of Bank2. A key for plugs I will take plugs and to investigate them, also I will take COP for studying of a state. But I have no mistakes, it is possible because of weak process of leak. Any your councils are very important for me. Thanks.

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Hi Edward, this site has an article and pictures describing the spark plug seals and offer more info on their replacment. It's on a 2009 Ford Flex, but same 3.5L engine.

https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7809

Thanks, is very valuable information, I study it, I think it is really applicable for me.

 

P.s It is strange to be told about the image plug tube seals there

but there are no images.

.

Edited by EDST777
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probably this consolidation in a valve cover

 

DORMAN 097146 {#0971461, 971461, F75Z6734AA} Rubber Gasket; Rubber; Size; M14, 1/2"; Inside Dia: 12.75mm; Outside Dia.: 19.38mm; Thickness: 2.67mm

 

7T4Z12025A

 

 

 

 

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Edited by EDST777
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5 7T4Z-6584-A Valve Cover Gasket

EDGE, MKX; LEFT

$14.58 $10.06 5 7T4Z-6584-B Valve Cover Gasket

EDGE, MKX; RIGHT

$14.53 $10.03

 

LEFT is bank 1 RIGHT is bank 2.

 

The FelPro kit looks like it includes everything for both banks, including valve cover gaskets, bolt grommets, spark plug tube seals and VCT solenoid seals.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4890087&cc=1434490&jsn=10698

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LEFT is bank 1 RIGHT is bank 2.

 

The FelPro kit looks like it includes everything for both banks, including valve cover gaskets, bolt grommets, spark plug tube seals and VCT solenoid seals.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4890087&cc=1434490&jsn=10698

 

 

Only VICTOR REINZ VS50490 and KNECHT/MAHLE VS50490 what of these producers to prefer is available to me? Thanks.

 

p.s: I think also to replace the PCV valve, it can't give such problems? or the problem would be on two parts of Bank1 and Bank2?

Edited by EDST777
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Both brands are top quality, I have a slight preference for Victor Reinz, but really Mahle should work work well too.

 

Could be that the PCV valve is causing a problem. If it is clogged/not functioning properly, it can cause buildup of pressure inside the crankcase/engine and cause seals to leak. So well worth replacing for peace of mind.

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Friends, I would like that you checked correctness part-numbers for the order on my a car of 2008 AWD Ford EDGE 3.5 Limited if you have offers on change of my options on better brands, I will be glad to your councils:
1 The AYFS22FM FORD spark plugs (You hold the opinion that the best spark plugs are OEM?).
2 PCV FORD valve Ford EDGE-Explorer 11 2X4Z6A666AA

3 Laying of an intake manifold of MS97120 FEL-PRO

Edited by EDST777
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so friends I have unscrewed all three plugs of Bank2, I haven't found anything bad on plugs, there are no soot traces, there are no oil traces, there is no blue color. But that concerns me, it is a gap of plugs, it is much more of fact that it is specified in the guide to service which specifies 1, 61 mm a maximum. My valid size nearly 2 millimeters, at the same time isn't present any problems, the engine works without hindrances, steadily and doesn't shiver. It isn't sure, but these plugs in a new state had a gap more than 1, 61 millimeter. In the management old data are really specified?

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Edited by EDST777
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The plugs look ok-ish to me. But the gap growth is rather quick for only 53000 kms on them. I would say in your case, change them every 50000 kms to be safe.

 

One possibility for the oil spots is the Engine Oil Pressure switch. More typically happens on 2011-14, but does sometimes happen in 2007-10 MYs. It is on the engine block to the left and above the oil filter, close to the alternator/generator. Tight spot, inspect carefully. If it is leaking, it is possible that oil has deposited on the valve cover from there.

 

You are sure the oil filter is not double-gasketed, right? Sometimes the oil filter leaves the gasket behind. The leak would be quite severe tho, so I don't think that is the case.

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The plugs look ok-ish to me. But the gap growth is rather quick for only 53000 kms on them. I would say in your case, change them every 50000 kms to be safe.

 

One possibility for the oil spots is the Engine Oil Pressure switch. More typically happens on 2011-14, but does sometimes happen in 2007-10 MYs. It is on the engine block to the left and above the oil filter, close to the alternator/generator. Tight spot, inspect carefully. If it is leaking, it is possible that oil has deposited on the valve cover from there.

 

You are sure the oil filter is not double-gasketed, right? Sometimes the oil filter leaves the gasket behind. The leak would be quite severe tho, so I don't think that is the case.

I already ordered thanks for yours, as always a valuable advice, new plugs and I wait for them shipment. Double-gasket of an oil filter as it should be, it is established on the place and not displaced, in an installation site is dry and clean, it is an indicator of the correct installation. Thanks for your assumptions. Now I am going to check the oil pressure sensor especially as I saw an old oil spot on the cylinder block around an opening for pressure release of a water pump.

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  • 7 months later...

Leaking oil pressure switch should present itself as oil dripping from the a/c compressor as it is directly below the switch.  Also you may have the oil pressure indicator light come on at idle speeds then shut off as rpms increase.  Mine eventually failed and was dripping oil at a high rate through the connector.  Use a deep well 13/16 socket or equivalent metric.  A little tough to get at but can be done in 30 mins.  Get at it from the engine compartment.

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