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So Edgy,

 

You will also need a GPS antenna for Nav or compass and a pigtail or an adapter to supply power to your USB hub.

 

Overview and differences in APIMs:

I've done two Sync 2 to Sync 3 conversions (My 2013 F150 last year and my sons 2011 Edge last week). APIMs at least 2016 models that have the 2nd to last letter with a C or K are navigation models, 2017 2nd to last with a C is navigation. All others I've seen which with a B,D, or F 2nd to last letters are non-navigation but this may vary. Best to pick one that shows the unit powered up at some point or gives you the VIN of the vehicle it came from so you can check its As built data to see if it had Nav or find the window sticker for it online to see if it did.

Screen and APIM assemblies that end with SB are the flat sided and those with SC are stepped or indented. I'm unsure of which model the 2015 uses but you can tell by looking at your Sync 2 screen with the bezel removed. The 2011 had the stepped screen. I used a SB assembly so had to 3D print some brackets to fit. My post is on the forum

 

Configuration:

Once you install the screen you will most likely need to program it to work with your vehicle. There is a free Windows program called Forscan. You can use it with a wired or bluetooth OBD2 dongle to program the options you have. People generally look up the "As Built" information of a vehicle that originally came with Sync 3 that has the same or as close as possible options as your vehicle. From there you can look at the Sync 3 spreadsheet on the F150 forums to tweak as needed. Since yours is a 2015 a similarly specified 2016 vehicle will probably work.

 

Updating:

Updates have to be for the correct type of APIM you have so Nav or non-nav. The difference between the two are the amount of storage space on the APIM. If you try to install a NAV update on a Non-Nav APIM it will hang once it fills up the storage space (since it doesn't delete old data until the end) and no longer boot to the user interface. There are ways to recover from this with a modified install file but the best bet is to make sure you are updating with the right file. I used a VIN from a wrecked explorer that had nav to get my updates from ford. I updated form 2.2 to 2.3 to 3.0 on the F150 and 2.3 to 3.0 on the Edge using the same USB stick. This might not always work however as there have been recent hardware changes to the 2018 version of the APIMs. As long as it matches for the APIM year and type you have you should be okay.

Random stuff:

There is a current modder group working on additional changes to the Sync system. I know they've gotten Nav to work on Non-Nav units and customized the splash screen and background. I typically stay away from this since you are always dependent on said modders for updates. Honestly even though my APIMs are both Nav I never use the factory nav. I use Android Auto all the time. Once Waze does the update to use it directly on the GUI (hopefully this month or next) I see no reason why anyone would use the factory navigation maps unless they were in an area without an internet connection. There's also Sygic support too but I've never used it so can't speak on it.

 

Cost:

You can sometimes find non-nav screens and APIMs for around the $300-$400. Nav screens generally go around $500+. You can find ones for less sometimes if you are lucky. I bought both of mine with APIM and screen together. If i would have bought them separately it would have cost me around $200 more.

 

Sync 3 vs Sync 2

No comparison here. I originally did my 2013 due to the lag of clicking an option to when that option was performed. It drove me insane. The screen is better and the layout and app support is better. Android Auto and Carplay is just the icing on the cake.

 

 

Good luck Hopefully this helps.

 

-Deric

 

note: edited to clarify APIM nav/non-navs I've seen. :)

 

Hi all,
Im new to the forum and relatively new to my vehicle, and Im hoping to get some precise info on a project I want to start. I have a 2015 Edge Titanium, and I want to replace the MyFord Touch with the necessary hardware to:
- Add Sync 3 compatibility
- retain all current integration with MyFord Touch (I.e.: steering wheel controls, instrument cluster integration, etc)

My current research concludes that I will need to source the following:
- a touchscreen/info display from a 2016+ Edge
- a Sync 3 APIM module with Nav (vehicle specific?)
- Sync 3/CarPlay compatible USB hub

Are there any other specific parts I will need in order to retain all functionality, while adding Sync 3?

Thanks, and looking forward to learning more from the community here.

Edited by Okie
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  • 2 weeks later...

VERY helpful write-up, I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I think I found a deal on one with Nav and a screen for 374, which I started a thread for with the link to the seller's listing on eBay. he had 10, and I got the first one!

 

So Edgy,

 

You will also need a GPS antenna for Nav or compass and a pigtail or an adapter to supply power to your USB hub.

 

Overview and differences in APIMs:

I've done two Sync 2 to Sync 3 conversions (My 2013 F150 last year and my sons 2011 Edge last week). APIMs at least 2016 models that have the 2nd to last letter with a C or K are navigation models, 2017 2nd to last with a C is navigation. All others I've seen which with a B,D, or F 2nd to last letters are non-navigation but this may vary. Best to pick one that shows the unit powered up at some point or gives you the VIN of the vehicle it came from so you can check its As built data to see if it had Nav or find the window sticker for it online to see if it did.

Screen and APIM assemblies that end with SB are the flat sided and those with SC are stepped or indented. I'm unsure of which model the 2015 uses but you can tell by looking at your Sync 2 screen with the bezel removed. The 2011 had the stepped screen. I used a SB assembly so had to 3D print some brackets to fit. My post is on the forum

 

Configuration:

Once you install the screen you will most likely need to program it to work with your vehicle. There is a free Windows program called Forscan. You can use it with a wired or bluetooth OBD2 dongle to program the options you have. People generally look up the "As Built" information of a vehicle that originally came with Sync 3 that has the same or as close as possible options as your vehicle. From there you can look at the Sync 3 spreadsheet on the F150 forums to tweak as needed. Since yours is a 2015 a similarly specified 2016 vehicle will probably work.

 

Updating:

Updates have to be for the correct type of APIM you have so Nav or non-nav. The difference between the two are the amount of storage space on the APIM. If you try to install a NAV update on a Non-Nav APIM it will hang once it fills up the storage space (since it doesn't delete old data until the end) and no longer boot to the user interface. There are ways to recover from this with a modified install file but the best bet is to make sure you are updating with the right file. I used a VIN from a wrecked explorer that had nav to get my updates from ford. I updated form 2.2 to 2.3 to 3.0 on the F150 and 2.3 to 3.0 on the Edge using the same USB stick. This might not always work however as there have been recent hardware changes to the 2018 version of the APIMs. As long as it matches for the APIM year and type you have you should be okay.

Random stuff:

There is a current modder group working on additional changes to the Sync system. I know they've gotten Nav to work on Non-Nav units and customized the splash screen and background. I typically stay away from this since you are always dependent on said modders for updates. Honestly even though my APIMs are both Nav I never use the factory nav. I use Android Auto all the time. Once Waze does the update to use it directly on the GUI (hopefully this month or next) I see no reason why anyone would use the factory navigation maps unless they were in an area without an internet connection. There's also Sygic support too but I've never used it so can't speak on it.

 

Cost:

You can sometimes find non-nav screens and APIMs for around the $300-$400. Nav screens generally go around $500+. You can find ones for less sometimes if you are lucky. I bought both of mine with APIM and screen together. If i would have bought them separately it would have cost me around $200 more.

 

Sync 3 vs Sync 2

No comparison here. I originally did my 2013 due to the lag of clicking an option to when that option was performed. It drove me insane. The screen is better and the layout and app support is better. Android Auto and Carplay is just the icing on the cake.

 

 

Good luck Hopefully this helps.

 

-Deric

 

note: edited to clarify APIM nav/non-navs I've seen. :)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Working on doing aftermarket sub in wife's edge, if I unplug the sub for the factory amplified stereo and just remove it. will the rest of 8 interior speakers still work or is there some kind of trip mode?

Edited by Poizun69
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  • 2 months later...

Okie,

 

Have you seen anyone gets this to work successfully on a 4.2" screen model that did not even have Sync 1? What other parts would be required in addition to what you and zrt8355 have mentioned? Thanks!

So Edgy,

 

You will also need a GPS antenna for Nav or compass and a pigtail or an adapter to supply power to your USB hub.

 

Overview and differences in APIMs:

I've done two Sync 2 to Sync 3 conversions (My 2013 F150 last year and my sons 2011 Edge last week). APIMs at least 2016 models that have the 2nd to last letter with a C or K are navigation models, 2017 2nd to last with a C is navigation. All others I've seen which with a B,D, or F 2nd to last letters are non-navigation but this may vary. Best to pick one that shows the unit powered up at some point or gives you the VIN of the vehicle it came from so you can check its As built data to see if it had Nav or find the window sticker for it online to see if it did.

Screen and APIM assemblies that end with SB are the flat sided and those with SC are stepped or indented. I'm unsure of which model the 2015 uses but you can tell by looking at your Sync 2 screen with the bezel removed. The 2011 had the stepped screen. I used a SB assembly so had to 3D print some brackets to fit. My post is on the forum

 

Configuration:

Once you install the screen you will most likely need to program it to work with your vehicle. There is a free Windows program called Forscan. You can use it with a wired or bluetooth OBD2 dongle to program the options you have. People generally look up the "As Built" information of a vehicle that originally came with Sync 3 that has the same or as close as possible options as your vehicle. From there you can look at the Sync 3 spreadsheet on the F150 forums to tweak as needed. Since yours is a 2015 a similarly specified 2016 vehicle will probably work.

 

Updating:

Updates have to be for the correct type of APIM you have so Nav or non-nav. The difference between the two are the amount of storage space on the APIM. If you try to install a NAV update on a Non-Nav APIM it will hang once it fills up the storage space (since it doesn't delete old data until the end) and no longer boot to the user interface. There are ways to recover from this with a modified install file but the best bet is to make sure you are updating with the right file. I used a VIN from a wrecked explorer that had nav to get my updates from ford. I updated form 2.2 to 2.3 to 3.0 on the F150 and 2.3 to 3.0 on the Edge using the same USB stick. This might not always work however as there have been recent hardware changes to the 2018 version of the APIMs. As long as it matches for the APIM year and type you have you should be okay.

Random stuff:

There is a current modder group working on additional changes to the Sync system. I know they've gotten Nav to work on Non-Nav units and customized the splash screen and background. I typically stay away from this since you are always dependent on said modders for updates. Honestly even though my APIMs are both Nav I never use the factory nav. I use Android Auto all the time. Once Waze does the update to use it directly on the GUI (hopefully this month or next) I see no reason why anyone would use the factory navigation maps unless they were in an area without an internet connection. There's also Sygic support too but I've never used it so can't speak on it.

 

Cost:

You can sometimes find non-nav screens and APIMs for around the $300-$400. Nav screens generally go around $500+. You can find ones for less sometimes if you are lucky. I bought both of mine with APIM and screen together. If i would have bought them separately it would have cost me around $200 more.

 

Sync 3 vs Sync 2

No comparison here. I originally did my 2013 due to the lag of clicking an option to when that option was performed. It drove me insane. The screen is better and the layout and app support is better. Android Auto and Carplay is just the icing on the cake.

 

 

Good luck Hopefully this helps.

 

-Deric

 

note: edited to clarify APIM nav/non-navs I've seen. :)

 

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I was thinking if i got a limited faceplate, a sync 3 screen (recessed model), and APIM i would be off to a good start. I think i would also need a microphone and steering wheel controls, and probably some wiring harness to power the screen (if this idea would work). Even if sync 3 would not work, if i could get a limited faceplate to work (i.e. still control HVAC and hazards) that would be a win because it would open up real estate to install an aftermarket screen such as the Alpine Halo setup. The lack of faceplates other than Metra is frustrating. Thanks for the help!

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I haven't seen this done on a 2011 but it should be possible. Here is what I generally have seen when converting from 4" to 8" (posted in another thread)

 

You might be able to talk to one of the companies that sells a harness to be a test subject for a discount etc.

 

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24145-changing-the-2018-ford-edge-se-head-unit/?p=183989

 

 

I was thinking if i got a limited faceplate, a sync 3 screen (recessed model), and APIM i would be off to a good start. I think i would also need a microphone and steering wheel controls, and probably some wiring harness to power the screen (if this idea would work). Even if sync 3 would not work, if i could get a limited faceplate to work (i.e. still control HVAC and hazards) that would be a win because it would open up real estate to install an aftermarket screen such as the Alpine Halo setup. The lack of faceplates other than Metra is frustrating. Thanks for the help!

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