Check alternator output (S/B 14+ volts)
Not quite accurate. Depending on conditions charging system voltage measured at the battery will vary between 13.2-15.5 volts
Jump to content
Posted 02 January 2011 - 06:53 AM
Check alternator output (S/B 14+ volts)
Posted 05 January 2011 - 09:07 PM
Posted 07 January 2011 - 05:08 PM
I went through all this when I bought a new 2005 Mustang GT.
I had the same problem with mine 2010 SEL. My car was in the garage and just overnight battery went completely dead. I leave in So Cal, so weather is not a problem. I called Ford's road assistance, and when he hooked up power source car started right away. Battery and alternator tested ok and leads were tight. It is not battery problem ether. I think it somewhat relay or something get stuck some time to time and draining the battery when car is not driven. So far it happened once. Dealer could not find anything wrong ether.
Posted 16 January 2011 - 07:14 PM
Posted 17 January 2011 - 08:31 AM
Posted 21 January 2011 - 01:00 PM
Odds are its one of two things, and bad Battery or theres a relay sticking so something like the fuel pump may still be running wile the car is off. I'm betting on the battery tho.
Posted 18 October 2011 - 07:28 PM
I have been having the same problem with my 2010 Ltd AWD. Once last Feb, once 6 weeks later. I thought brake light switch was adjusted too sensitive so bent the mounting bracket. Dealer couldn't find anything wrong and told me "Next time, don't jump it, have it towed in as is" So a month later did just that. No problem found after two days in the shop. I bought a mobile booster to carry around for security and nothing happened all summer. Used the car yesterday, parked overnight and today the battery was totally flat. Not even enough juice to allow the security LED to blink. Boosted to start, drove 15 mins into Niagara Falls, turned off and started okay therafter. Nothing left turned on, all doors locked etc. Problem seemed to begin after I used the factory installed remote starter for the first and only time.
Well I guess I'll chime in on this one now too. Just this afternoon I went to start up my 2010 Edge AWD Limited w/ Panoramic roof and no go. Not even enough juice to use the key fob or even a dim interior light. It was like the battery had been taken out. My first thought was security feature or something because it was so odd that it would be dead. We were out shopping and such most of the day Saturday and got home around 5pm. No issues. Then today at about 3pm.. dead. So I don't know what the deal is. Nothing was plugged in, no lights left on. I've left the Garmin plugged in overnight before and on without any issue (by accident). So yeah, this one is bugging me because there is no reason this should have happened. We went on a grocery run today and shut it off and it started fine again on a couple stops. So the alternator is charging and the battery is holding a charge... Well, holding it for short periods anyways. We'll see how it goes tomorrow morning.
Posted 08 March 2012 - 09:37 PM
Edited by forthome, 16 July 2012 - 07:30 PM.
Posted 12 April 2012 - 12:38 PM
I have 2010 Edge, four weeks old with 1000 miles on it. When I tried to start it for the last two days, the battery appeared to be "stone" dead. i.e no interior lights, no dash warning lights. It was towed to the local Ford dealer today.
The battery and charging system tested OK and there was no electrical draw found. They charged the battery and will hold it overnight and try it again in the morning. Has anyone else had this problem?
Edited by ShirleyTermer-Marquis, 12 April 2012 - 03:50 PM.
Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:44 PM
My cd changer was trying to change cds all night and in the morning the battery was dead. It has been cold in Ontario this past week and it has happened twice.....and never before in the last 2 years. I have to speak to the dealer next week.
Posted 19 October 2017 - 04:06 PM
Posted 19 October 2017 - 04:09 PM
Posted 19 October 2017 - 05:08 PM
Edited by enigma-2, 19 October 2017 - 05:22 PM.
Posted 21 October 2017 - 04:14 PM
Posted 21 October 2017 - 06:57 PM
This is very good information. I have tried doing a draw test and my volt meter wasn't showing anything.i am skeptical of my current battery. I pulled it out and the sticker says 11/16 how ever it is a car quest battery
I have always been a interstate battery guy myself. I am debating on going and getting the old load testing battery tester at harbor freight. However I do like the battery tester from Amazon you have.
Want something better buy an AGM battery. Get rid of the wet battery.
Posted 30 December 2017 - 10:24 AM
Posted 30 December 2017 - 01:24 PM
Posted 30 December 2017 - 01:26 PM
Welp Im back with the battery drawing issue. I let my edge sit for a week and dead battery. Back in November I put a brand new interstate battery in it. I pulled the battery brought it inside popped the caps and two of the cells were froze. Called interstate and they told me this was due to the battery discharging. Something is coming on intermittently while the vehicle sits. The past two weeks have been super cold where I live. Highs in the mid 20s. I will get to the bottom of this. Just got to have to do some investigating.
Good luck finding the parasitic drain, because it takes just one deep discharge to ruin a lead acid battery.
The place where you bought the Interstate should still give you a free replacement regardless.
Costco has the best deal on Interstate batteries these days, lowest price ans longest warranty at 42 months free replacement.
Posted 30 December 2017 - 02:47 PM
My old battery tested fine three times at local Ford dealer, showed bad when I used my Solar BA-7 tester. A regular tester measures voltage. A Solar BA-7 tester tests the batteries actually internal capacity, and read's it out in Cold Cranking Amps. My battery was rated 650 CCA and read out 423 CCA. it lasted several weeks from when Ford said it was fine.
SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester
Addl note, I decided to go out and check my battery just to check. New one is rated 650 CCA, read out at 349 CCAs. ???
Cleaned the top and checked the electrolyte level. Checked again and now reads 457 CCA. (I do mostly short trips, and it sits sometimes for 2-3 days without being driven). Looks like I'll be buying a desulphating charger to bring it back to 650.
Whats happening is, as the battery starts the car, it draws hundreds of amperes. This causes crystals to from on the plates. The alternator recharges the battety and in the process, re-disolves these crystals and the battery returns to its full state. If you drive short trips, the alternator doesn't have sufficient time to fully re-disolve these crystals and the plates lose their ability to deliver full rated current during the next start. Over time, the plates are Crystalled over and can no longer start the car.
One fix is to make certain your Battety always receives a full charge (drive at least 20 minutes highway). Or buy a desulphating charger that will disolve the crystals.
These ordinary battery checkers really only test voltage, checking good even though the capacity has dropped to a low level.
Conductive test of the CA or CCA is the ONLY way to really check. I'm shocked at the number of NEW batteries at fault.
Posted 30 December 2017 - 06:16 PM
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users