Ask A Professional Detailer?
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Posted 31 August 2013 - 08:14 AM
Wow, this forum is exactly what I was looking for. I have a one week old 2013 Tuxedo Black Edge and I desperately need advice on protecting the exterior. And horrors of horrors....pine sap dripped on my door. Do I have to read through all twenty some pages of this thread to gather the best info? I have never heard of some of the products I read of in the last page. Is there a condensed collection of the products and procedures I need? Sorry to sound desperate but I am. Not lazy just don't have the time to research for an hour as the deadline I am trying to meet at work has me there 7 days a week.
Posted 31 August 2013 - 10:25 AM
Here are a few "detailed" threads on how to properly protect your Edge's exterior (from my own reading favs):
as far as the pine sap, if it is also relatively recent, then maybe GooGone will work? Tar-X would be a stronger weapon of choice to remove any and all organic matter stuck to the vehicle.
Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W, 31 August 2013 - 10:26 AM.
Posted 03 June 2014 - 10:00 PM
Posted 03 June 2014 - 11:02 PM
How deep are these scratches? I'm no expert but:
- If they are light, PlastX should do the job. If deeper, you will have to break out the polisher.
- A finishing polish like Meguiar's 205 may be enough. If after one pass, it's not working, step up to something with more cut, like 105.
I am sure Richy or one of the other detailing gurus will chime in soon.
- TRMN8TR likes this
Posted 05 June 2014 - 12:12 AM
A pic would help although plastic is very difficult to deal with. If the PlastX doesn't work (I've never used it), I would be inclined to leave it. I think you will discolour it if you try to buff it. Again, a pic would help.
Posted 15 June 2014 - 11:41 PM
RMP: I would consider doing the fingernail test. If the scratch catches your fingernail, it will be too deep for you to take out with PlastX.
- WWWPerfA_ZN0W likes this
Posted 13 July 2014 - 08:20 AM
Mequiar's Gold Class Carwash Soap good for the 22" wheels on my Sport? Ty in advance
Posted 13 July 2014 - 09:40 AM
Should be fine! It is very mild detergent, good for regular cleaning of dusty/muddy wheels (not those with stuck on road tar/brake dust etc.). More important that you use good microfiber cloths or wheel woolies for scrubbing/wiping purposes to avoid scratching the wheels.
Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W, 13 July 2014 - 09:43 AM.
- FtrEdgeOwnr likes this
Posted 13 July 2014 - 04:11 PM
Awesome thanks! What would be a recommended polish to apply to the wheels?
Edited by FtrEdgeOwnr, 13 July 2014 - 06:06 PM.
Posted 13 July 2014 - 06:21 PM
If you do need to polish the wheels, that is, get rid of scratches and swirls, at this stage of the game, you could get away with a finishing polish like Meguiar's 205 and a 3" polishing disc on a dual action polisher.
But if you are looking to wax the wheels to keep them clean, you can use any high-quality durable wax or coating. Collinite 845 is a perennial favorite (warm up the product and apply thinly), or maybe something like Meguiar's Ultimate wax. Choices are quite wide, if you want to, look up reviews on Amazon or Autogeek etc. and see what fits your expectations. If you want to go a step further to the pro level, you can put on a coating like Opticoat, CQuartz Finest, etc.
Pull the wheels to do the work if you want them looking good & clean through and through. Though I think you can get pretty good coverage for waxing/sealing the entire wheel by hand. Polishing is another matter.
Make sense, or did I confuse you?
- richy and FtrEdgeOwnr like this
Posted 14 July 2014 - 04:03 PM
Thanks no confusion, and it looks like I'll stick to the polish! LOL
Edited by FtrEdgeOwnr, 20 July 2014 - 04:44 PM.
Posted 03 August 2014 - 08:06 AM
Whats your opinion of using Rejex and my brand new white edge sport?
Posted 04 October 2014 - 08:45 PM
Having just got my Edge, I am coming to the party a little bit late. I don't know if anyone still responds to this thread. In the first few posts, there was a bit about 303 Products, but what was not clearly defined was which one works best with the vinyl inside. Looking on amazon, there are 130350 Aerospace Protectant , 130552 Fabric and Vinyl Cleaner, 130616 High Tech Fabric Guard with Water Repellant, so I am not sure which one he was referring to.
Also, I gather from the talk about clay barring and other stuff .. is getting into territory that I have not one clue about. I can pay for this to be done at one of the local auto-spa detailing places near by me, but to be quite honest, I can't really afford it. Later on there is talk about a sealer that is recommended, but I don't know what or more importantly where to get one.
After spending a good $24K on a car, I'd like to get a good 8-9 years out of it, so spending a little up front to get it done right makes a bit of sense. But when you have not too much of a clue as to where to spend it or what is right makes that task a bit more hard.
The edge is 2 years old. I have no clue what the previous owner has or has not done, but I'd like to protect my investment as much as possible with the limited money that I have. What will give me the best bang for my buck.
Posted 12 January 2015 - 08:15 PM
Thanks for providing your expertise on detailing. I just got a new 2014 Edge Limited. What should I do to the paint? Have it professionally waxed/ treated? Being winter in Boston and not having a heated garage, I don't have any place to do anything myself. Are the new Fords adequately prepped for winter?
Posted 12 January 2015 - 11:12 PM
Don't rely on a mfr to sell you well prepped vehicles. You want nice, you gotta take care of it yourself. Since the Edge is new, this is the perfect time to have the paint decontaminated (rail dust, road dust, brake dust, etc), and then sealed with a hybrid wax or sealant that will last through the winter muck. Products such as Collinite 845 are very popular due to low cost and high effectiveness, but the longest lasting are usually sealants/coatings such as OptiCoat or CQuartz Finest, which last between 1-2 years and give you a maddeningly good shine. Same products also keep your wheels looking good for a long time. So if you use anyone, find out how familiar they are with one of these products, then get it done. You will probably need a one-pass polishing at most, so that should help keep cost down as well.
- PrinzII likes this
Posted 05 December 2015 - 12:57 PM
I am new to this site, and just bought a 2013 Edge SEL for the old lady. I also have lots of professional detailing experience and would be happy to provide advice when/where requested.
1. There are lots of fine detailing products out there; there is no "best" compound or polish or wax/synthetic. I have my favorites and tend to stick with them, although I am not averse to trying something new. Detailing products have come a long way in the last five years.
2. You'll never accomplish Jack-S#!t removing swirls/RIDS or holograms by hand. Get a D/A and a good selection of foam or microfiber pads to correct damaged paint.
3. Correcting Damaged paint is a (minimum) three step process: Compounding, Polishing, and Last Step Product (Wax/synthetic/coating). You can add Clay-barring to that list if necessary.
4. My current "go-to" products are: Meguiars M101 (compound); Meguiars M205 (Polish); and Blackfire Wet Diamond synthetic "wax." I can toss in Wet Glaze 2.0 as a last step gloss enhancer. I use a Griots Garage 6" polisher. Lots of power. Use Lake Country foam pads (mostly). Get a good light to see your work clearly and use a roll-about stool to save your back.
5. I have never found a tire shine product that is all that great.
6. Go online to learn how to use all this stuff. Some good instructional Videos on AutoGeek.
7. Black paint sucks!
8. People have no idea how much time it takes to do a perfect paint restoration job. Most people want to pay $99.95 for a detail. Ain't gonna happen!
9. It's all in the prep!
Edited by jaymz, 07 December 2015 - 08:31 AM.
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Posted 27 December 2015 - 12:47 PM
I have found the following process to be best for my cars (2013 Edge SEL/w everything), 2015 Camry (candy red):
1. Wash and dry car thoroughly by hand.
2. Apply Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (16oz will last 4-6 applications).
3. Apply P21s Carnauba Wax (6.2oz will last a long time; 8-12 applications).
Do this three times a year and your paint will shine like gloss and last forever. I'm in Arizona and my cars always look new. My biggest issue is parking them in parking lots. I park as far a way as I can where no cars ever park (except people like me) and I still worry; definitely paranoid!
- PrinzII likes this
Posted 05 April 2016 - 06:20 PM
Wow, what a wealth of information on this forum. I read through all 22 pages of this a number of times, so many great suggestions and solutions.
It had never occurred to me that a new car needs to be clayed, polished, sealed and waxed to bring out the best in the factory paint. I had used the clay for the first time last year on my 2008 Sabel, couldn't believe how easy it was and the incredible difference it made in the paint.
After reading this forum got a PC7424XP, Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800, Power Lock Polymer Sealant, Color Lock Carnauba Wax, pads, backing plates, lots of microfiber, two buckets and grit guards, fine clay bar, Poorboy's Bold & Bright, Stoners Invisible Glass, Lexol Leather Conditioner............. Great products.
Picked up the edge the first of March, had to wait a few weeks for the pine pollen to stop flying here in the sunny South. Washed it the weekend after picking it up and a few minutes after getting it dry with the amazing waffle weave microfiber it had already collected a yellowish green tint form the pollen. Thought it best not to clay and polish the pollen into the tinted clearcoat. So waited a few weeks did the wash the right way, fine clay with Meguiers Quik Detail for a lube, power polish, hand seal two coats and one coat wax. Fortunately the dealer didn't do a wash in their car wash complete with swirling brushes, didn't see any swirl marks. But the clay did remove some contaminates, the before and after plastic bag trick was quite revealing. Learned how to use the buffer on the glass, the PC is about as foolproof as it gets. Very easy.
Here's some pics, thanks everyone for all the great advice and suggestions.
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