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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Ask A Professional Detailer?


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448 replies to this topic

#41 OFFLINE   bpattie

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 04:55 PM

Claymagic's Fine Grade works extremely well on glass, and Detailed Image carries that.

Regarding Griot's Garage products, I've personally never used them. Having said that, I know a lot of people that use them and speak highly of them. Codyyfz here on this forum uses their products exclusively, maybe he can chime in and give his opinion.

ok, here goes a dumb question...........I understand and can see the benefits of using clay bar on paint, but why glass?







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#42 OFFLINE   wilsons66604

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 05:29 PM

Speaking of GLASS! I was just cleaning my windows (with Invisible Glass) and noticed that my roof is ALL Glass! I never paid that much attention (I have a Black Edge so my Vista roof blends in) From the inside, it looks like there would be some sheet metal on the roof because the rear moon roof doesn't take up the whole space.
I guess I have less paint to care for than I thought! :doh:

EDIT:
I ordered some stuff from PoorBoys this afternoon and already have a FedEx tracking # . Quick!

Edited by wilsons66604, 05 October 2010 - 05:41 PM.


#43 OFFLINE   11Sport

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 06:06 PM

Claymagic's Fine Grade works extremely well on glass, and Detailed Image carries that.


OK. Is it ok to use the Poorboy's Spray & Wipe as a clay bar lubricant on glass or do you a different lubricant? Can you use any clay bar for glass as well? I already have Meguiar's bar kit.

#44 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 09:24 PM

ok, here goes a dumb question...........I understand and can see the benefits of using clay bar on paint, but why glass?


There is no such thing as a dumb question. :)

Just like contaminates can become bonded to your paint, they can become bonded to your windshield and windows as well. Even though your windows might look clean, you'd be surprised at how dirty your clay bar is after you do them. Like your paint, if you lightly move your fingers across your windows and it feels slightly rough like sandpaper, you know you'll need to clay bar them. :)

#45 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 09:34 PM

OK. Is it ok to use the Poorboy's Spray & Wipe as a clay bar lubricant on glass or do you a different lubricant? Can you use any clay bar for glass as well? I already have Meguiar's bar kit.


Yep, Poorboys S&W makes a great lubricant when claying both your paint and windshield. If you are clay barring glass, I would stick with a fine grade clay bar, like the one I mentioned earlier from Clay Magic. An aggressive clay bar can and will cause marring. Using an aggressive clay bar on your paint (if it's warranted) is not a big deal since you typically follow up clay barring with a single or multi step polishing........but glass is different. Check your Meguiars clay bar kit and see how aggressive it us before using it on your glass.

#46 OFFLINE   wilsons66604

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 09:36 PM

There is no such thing as a dumb question. :)

Just like contaminates can become bonded to your paint, they can become bonded to your windshield and windows as well. Even though your windows might look clean, you'd be surprised at how dirty your clay bar is after you do them. Like your paint, if you lightly move your fingers across your windows and it feels slightly rough like sandpaper, you know you'll need to clay bar them. :)

Good point! Don't forget your big ass moon roof.

#47 OFFLINE   ttonyrob

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 07:41 AM

will try clay bar on glass :wacko:

#48 OFFLINE   11Sport

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 03:10 PM

Yep, Poorboys S&W makes a great lubricant when claying both your paint and windshield. If you are clay barring glass, I would stick with a fine grade clay bar, like the one I mentioned earlier from Clay Magic. An aggressive clay bar can and will cause marring. Using an aggressive clay bar on your paint (if it's warranted) is not a big deal since you typically follow up clay barring with a single or multi step polishing........but glass is different. Check your Meguiars clay bar kit and see how aggressive it us before using it on your glass.


Spoke to a Meguiar's rep today and the clay bar is non-abrasive or very fine. The smooth surface kit that I used 3 days ago came with the quick detail for a lubricant. They said that yes the clay & lub can be used on glass as well. I was thinking "ok why not put that on the box then?". Any ways gonna try it out.

#49 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 03:13 PM

Good stuff, let me know how you make out!! :)

#50 OFFLINE   DJ Nap

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 03:27 PM

So if anyone wants to ask any questions or needs any detailing advice just post it here in this thread. I myself own a detailing business and another member here codyyfz is another well versed detailer. Any questions on wanting to keep your new Edge in showroom condition, please post here and I will be glad to help.


Don't forget about DJ Nap...I've owned a detailing biz here in FL for 9 1/2 years and have been a forum member for a long time now. PleaseWashMyCar.com!

#51 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 03:47 PM

Don't forget about DJ Nap...I've owned a detailing biz here in FL for 9 1/2 years and have been a forum member for a long time now. PleaseWashMyCar.com!


Good stuff. I noticed you are a detailer as well from the other thread. Always nice to see another detailer around. Posted Image

#52 OFFLINE   bpattie

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Posted 08 October 2010 - 07:04 PM

canuck

I live in colorado, live in a place that is beautiful, but solid pine trees. It is that time of the year (semi-annual) where the pines loose needles and it results in a mist of pine sap. Long story but have no room in the garage right now. I did google searches and see everything from wd40 to simple green to bug and tar remover recommended. What is your recommendation?? thanks in advance.

#53 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 09:22 AM

canuck

I live in colorado, live in a place that is beautiful, but solid pine trees. It is that time of the year (semi-annual) where the pines loose needles and it results in a mist of pine sap. Long story but have no room in the garage right now. I did google searches and see everything from wd40 to simple green to bug and tar remover recommended. What is your recommendation?? thanks in advance.


I would first try to remove the sap with a quick detailer. If that doesn't work, clay bar will definitely do the trick.

#54 OFFLINE   Stryprod

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 01:26 PM

I live in Southern California, so I always have access to water and dust is more the enemy than rain/ snow/ sand, etc. I have a 2 year old a new baby boy, so time is very limited.

Can you recommend the easiest solution(s) and material(s) for car washing, tire cleaning and gloss, and paint maintenance? Someone gave me a turtle wax "ice" package awhile ago for a gift, is that good? (http://www.turtlewax...ain.taf?p=2,1,1)

So can you give me a list of recommended products to wash my car, such as mitt, towels, wash solution, and then I suppose tire and trim gloss and a paint sealant? Thanks in advanced!

#55 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 01:57 PM

I live in Southern California, so I always have access to water and dust is more the enemy than rain/ snow/ sand, etc. I have a 2 year old a new baby boy, so time is very limited.

Can you recommend the easiest solution(s) and material(s) for car washing, tire cleaning and gloss, and paint maintenance? Someone gave me a turtle wax "ice" package awhile ago for a gift, is that good? (http://www.turtlewax...in.taf?p=2,1,1)

So can you give me a list of recommended products to wash my car, such as mitt, towels, wash solution, and then I suppose tire and trim gloss and a paint sealant? Thanks in advanced!



I would first start with this basic wash/dry package from Detailed Image. http://www.detailedi...r-Package-P148/

Get yourself two buckets as well, one for your soapy water and one for water only. Put the grit guard in the soapy water bucket. This will allow all of the grit to go to the bottom of the bucket and prevent your mitt from touching it. After washing a portion of each panel, rinse your mitt in the water bucket to release all of the grit and dirt, then proceed to the soapy bucket. The waffle weave drying towels are they best and safest thing to dry your car with. Another great drying technique is after the car is completely washed, take the nozzle off of your hose and rinse your car down starting from the top. This will produce a sheeting effect and will remove over half of the water on your car.

The Turtle Wax Ice product isn't too bad I guess, but I am generally not a fan of their products........or pretty much any over the counter products for that matter. Once you start using professional products, you'll probably never go back. :)

For a paint sealant, my absolute favourite is Menzerna Power Lock. The Power Lock replaces their previous sealant, Full Molecular Jacket, which was also an incredible product.
http://www.detailedi...t-P443/16oz-S1/

For a tire dressing, I have found none better than Poorboys Bold N Bright. http://www.detailedi...t-P36/16-oz-S1/

For in between washes, I would highly recommend getting Poorboys Spray & Wipe. This is a waterless wash Quick Detailer than can be used to remove dust, light dirt, bird bombs, clay bar lubricant, etc. I use it all the time as a quick wash, and because it has lubricants in it, it will not scratch your paint.

Lastly, and one of the most important things to purchase, is good quality microfiber towels. These are extremely good! http://www.detailedi...105/16-x-16-S1/

I hope this helps, but let me know if you have any other questions. :)

#56 OFFLINE   wilsons66604

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 03:12 PM

Canuck,
You mentioned putting the grit guard in the soap bucket. Detailedimage tells me to put it in the rinse bucket.
Which is it?

#57 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 03:15 PM

Canuck,
You mentioned putting the grit guard in the soap bucket. Detailedimage tells me to put it in the rinse bucket.
Which is it?


My bad, yes put it in the rinse bucket. Personally, I have one in each bucket, but if you only have one grit guard, put it in the rinse bucket.

#58 OFFLINE   Stryprod

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 03:24 PM

Wash dry package looks like a good deal but why the mitts and a sponge? Is one used for certain areas or?

As far as sealant goes, would a microfiber towel suffice for application or should I get a foam applicator and if so, recommendation?

Lastly, when applying sealant, do you avoid non-painted surface or? What happens if you get a little bit on trim, etc?


Thanks for taking the time again, you've helped us all so much!



I would first start with this basic wash/dry package from Detailed Image. http://www.detailedi...r-Package-P148/

Get yourself two buckets as well, one for your soapy water and one for water only. Put the grit guard in the soapy water bucket. This will allow all of the grit to go to the bottom of the bucket and prevent your mitt from touching it. After washing a portion of each panel, rinse your mitt in the water bucket to release all of the grit and dirt, then proceed to the soapy bucket. The waffle weave drying towels are they best and safest thing to dry your car with. Another great drying technique is after the car is completely washed, take the nozzle off of your hose and rinse your car down starting from the top. This will produce a sheeting effect and will remove over half of the water on your car.

The Turtle Wax Ice product isn't too bad I guess, but I am generally not a fan of their products........or pretty much any over the counter products for that matter. Once you start using professional products, you'll probably never go back. :)

For a paint sealant, my absolute favourite is Menzerna Power Lock. The Power Lock replaces their previous sealant, Full Molecular Jacket, which was also an incredible product.
http://www.detailedi...t-P443/16oz-S1/

For a tire dressing, I have found none better than Poorboys Bold N Bright. http://www.detailedi...t-P36/16-oz-S1/

For in between washes, I would highly recommend getting Poorboys Spray & Wipe. This is a waterless wash Quick Detailer than can be used to remove dust, light dirt, bird bombs, clay bar lubricant, etc. I use it all the time as a quick wash, and because it has lubricants in it, it will not scratch your paint.

Lastly, and one of the most important things to purchase, is good quality microfiber towels. These are extremely good! http://www.detailedi...105/16-x-16-S1/

I hope this helps, but let me know if you have any other questions. :)



#59 OFFLINE   CanuckG35

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 03:42 PM

Wash dry package looks like a good deal but why the mitts and a sponge? Is one used for certain areas or?

As far as sealant goes, would a microfiber towel suffice for application or should I get a foam applicator and if so, recommendation?

Lastly, when applying sealant, do you avoid non-painted surface or? What happens if you get a little bit on trim, etc?


Thanks for taking the time again, you've helped us all so much!





You can use the grout sponge or sheepskin mitt on your paint surface, however I like using the sheepskin mitt on all of the panels, and use the grout sponge on the trim. DI simply gives you both tools in that package. Using MF towels is certainly sufficient when applying your sealants, that's what I use. A foam applicator is fine too though. Regarding using sealants on trim......that is fine, however stay away from putting it on any trim that has a rough or porous surface. It will be hard to remove it.

#60 OFFLINE   wilsons66604

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 09:39 PM

My bad, yes put it in the rinse bucket. Personally, I have one in each bucket, but if you only have one grit guard, put it in the rinse bucket.

A grit guard in each bucket makes sense though




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