The Spy-Guy Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 I have a 2007 edge with Nav. The bass on the radio cuts out while driving. If you turn off the radio and turn it back on it's fine again. It may do this two or three times then is good for the rest of the trip. I have seen several posts to this problem with never an answer. Has anyone solved this problem? Thanks for any help you may give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feirstein Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Sub has its own amp. I would start by checking if there is a power issue concerning the connection to that amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6ds Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I am having the same issue as well. 2007 SEL+ with nav/sub. I pulled rear panel off and checked all the connections and it still cuts in and out. In my case i'm thinking either the amp is going bad or the connection at the head unit is loose. Does anyone know or have a picture of how the sub connects to the head unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandeleigh Posted December 19, 2010 Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 I am having the same issue as well. 2007 SEL+ with nav/sub. I pulled rear panel off and checked all the connections and it still cuts in and out. In my case i'm thinking either the amp is going bad or the connection at the head unit is loose. Does anyone know or have a picture of how the sub connects to the head unit? Yea, my thoughts are w/the head unit. We just bought an Edge and happened a few days after we got it. I'm going to ask my buddy who is a service manager at Ford... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandeleigh Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 Well, my buddy says he hasn't heard of any issue w/bass cutting out. Has anyone figured this one out? Clearly its a problem, so I would assume there's an answer somewhere.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamPacheco Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) my friend just started having the same issues. i went over the entire electrical system and found that the wire harness connecting the stock sub the the amp has a fault, the amp wears down over time. you need to remove the bottom screw holding the rear passenger seatbelt on then the small sill in the trunk pops out with body clips followed by the entire trunk floor just lifts out.the entire rear side panel will now come off with some pulling just about 6 body clips holding it in place. the sub box is held in place by 3 bolts one in the top one on the right side and one tucked away in the groove of the box on the right. the amp is on the back of the sub box and will need to be replaced. it is available direct from ford for around $160. good luck. and trust me i am 100% sure this is the problem. if you dont beleive me, pull the box out and wiggle the wire harness that goes from the amp into the back of the box while your stereo is running, it will cut in and out depending where you wiggle it. hope this helps! Edited August 26, 2011 by AdamPacheco 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meitra Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 I'm having the same problem. But when I called my local Ford dealer in Newark Ca, they told me the part is over $700. Do you by any chance have a part number? Thanks. my friend just started having the same issues. i went over the entire electrical system and found that the wire harness connecting the stock sub the the amp has a fault, the amp wears down over time. you need to remove the bottom screw holding the rear passenger seatbelt on then the small sill in the trunk pops out with body clips followed by the entire trunk floor just lifts out.the entire rear side panel will now come off with some pulling just about 6 body clips holding it in place. the sub box is held in place by 3 bolts one in the top one on the right side and one tucked away in the groove of the box on the right. the amp is on the back of the sub box and will need to be replaced. it is available direct from ford for around $160. good luck. and trust me i am 100% sure this is the problem. if you dont beleive me, pull the box out and wiggle the wire harness that goes from the amp into the back of the box while your stereo is running, it will cut in and out depending where you wiggle it. hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpmilton Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 my friend just started having the same issues. i went over the entire electrical system and found that the wire harness connecting the stock sub the the amp has a fault, the amp wears down over time. you need to remove the bottom screw holding the rear passenger seatbelt on then the small sill in the trunk pops out with body clips followed by the entire trunk floor just lifts out.the entire rear side panel will now come off with some pulling just about 6 body clips holding it in place. the sub box is held in place by 3 bolts one in the top one on the right side and one tucked away in the groove of the box on the right. the amp is on the back of the sub box and will need to be replaced. it is available direct from ford for around $160. good luck. and trust me i am 100% sure this is the problem. if you dont beleive me, pull the box out and wiggle the wire harness that goes from the amp into the back of the box while your stereo is running, it will cut in and out depending where you wiggle it. hope this helps! Here are some photos of what the amp looks like along with some others when I was replacing it. I followed the instructions from Adam's post and it was really easy. The part number (7L2T-18C808-AA) was located on the amp itself. My local dealership charged me $98 for a new one and they had it in a couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulicat Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks to everyone in this thread, swapped this out in my wife's 2007 SEL...jiggled the wire and duplicated the loss of subwoofer..excellent stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cindy Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 I just put new post about my 2008 Ford Edge developing the same problem with the base on the stereo, then I found these old posts about the 2007. Has anyone heard of a recall on this? Sounds like a defective part to me although Ford is really tough to ever come up with recalls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balzak Schlemp Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 (edited) Anyone ever figure out what goes wrong in these amps? Probably nothing a few parts from DigiKey and a soldering iron couldn't fix. Edited August 31, 2013 by Balzak Schlemp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasoneg Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Just replaced our amp on our 2008 edge. I was able to get the amp online for $67. The dealer wont sell you the amp anymore. You have to buy the whole subwoofer and plastic enclosure with the amp for $315! It took a while to find it online but was well worth it! The model number has changed over the years, and it looks a little different, but it works like a charm. Only a 30 minute install too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwest336 Posted July 29, 2017 Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Could it be either, excessive heat from location of amp...or ground wire being too small gauge? Ground screw on body of vehicle not making a good connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smartinup Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 i can 100% confirm that it is the AMP that is causing the bass to cut out. Part number (7L2T-18C808-AA). The problem is on the circuit board of the AMP. The capacitors solder is usually deteriorated over the years, if you have access to a soldering iron or knows some who does i recommend touching up the solder on the capacitors. I myself am no expert at soldering but i was able to fix the problem without paying for a new AMP. it took about an hour and its not rocket science. i learned this from patpend on this forum https://www.f150forum.com/f75/how-fix-your-subwoofer-amplifier-7l2t-18c808-aa-227544/. He shows you exactly where to solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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