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Ford is restating to the Service community that unintended hands-free liftgate operation is normal and no repair is needed to eliminate it, but that the solution for affected vehicle owners is deactivating the power liftgate or not having the passive key fob near the rear bumper when active in the cargo load space ... Good luck!

About two years later I got this done - I also painted the chrome part black. Used the satin black with satin clear coat.

Welcome to the forum nitehawk. Fully agree that Ford has built some stinkers over the years. The Oakville Ontario built Edge and Nautilus are pretty solid though.

It is my understanding that many of the deep sleep messages were programming errors and you weren't actually going into deep sleep mode. I got the messages, too, but the car functioned fine. I read something about this recently but I don't recall where. Auto start / stop is very complex. There are posts in this forum that list the criteria. During the summer, mine seldom kicks in. But that's okay. If auto start / stop doesn't kick in, it doesn't necessarily indicate a bad battery. If the dealer has tested your battery and it shows good, I wouldn't fret it. Take the trip and enjoy the drive.

Omar: Yes, the procedure mentions scan-tool usage... Front Toe Adjustment - Vehicles With Active Steering - 2016 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf This causes me to wonder if the scan tool is being used to engage the Active Steering Wheel Lock to ensure the Steering Wheel is secured pointing straight ahead when the Front Toe Adjustment is made. A bit later today, I'll pull all the diagnostic Pinpoint Tests and edit into this post the full library of 2016 Edge Active Steering references. Good luck!

Good luck!

Welcome to the Forum, Remis ! Diagnostic information from the 2015 Edge Workshop Manual... The Manual Liftgate Latch Release Is Inoperative Normal Operations and Fault Conditions Liftgate Latch Release (manual liftgate) The liftgate latch can be released using: the exterior liftgate release switch. a valid programmed passive key. The BCM sends a voltage signal to the exterior liftgate release switch. When the liftgate release switch is pressed, the voltage signal is routed to ground, indicating a request to release the liftgate latch. The BCM momentarily provides voltage to the liftgate latch to actuate the release motor. When using the liftgate release switch, the BCM releases the liftgate only when the doors have been electronically unlocked and the vehicle is in PARK. When using a programmed RKE transmitter, press the liftgate release button twice within 3 seconds to release the liftgate latch. The liftgate latch releases if the vehicle speed is 5 km/h (3.1 mph) or less. The liftgate latch can also be released using the passive entry feature. Refer to Liftgate Passive Entry in this section. Passive Entry (if equipped) NOTE: To perform an accurate diagnosis of a concern, make sure the vehicle has a fully charged 12V battery and is in good condition when performing any electrical pinpoint tests. When the vehicle’s 12-volt battery is below a set threshold, certain features can be limited or become inoperative and lead to misdiagnosis. NOTE: Some models are not equipped with the passive entry feature, but are equipped with push button start. The passive entry feature unlocks or locks the doors or opens the liftgate without having to use a mechanical key blade or the RKE transmitter feature. When the BCM detects a lock or unlock sensor is touched on an exterior door handle, or the exterior liftgate release button is pressed, it activates the low frequency antenna in the corresponding exterior door handle or inside the luggage compartment area. The low frequency antenna sends out a signal to activate the passive key. The passive key then responds by sending a high frequency signal back to the RTM . The RTM interprets the high frequency signal from the passive key and sends the information to the BCM . If the BCM detects a valid programmed passive key, the BCM unlocks the driver door, unlocks or locks all 4 doors, releases the liftgate latch (manual liftgate) or sends a command to the RGTM to power open the liftgate (power liftgate). The passive entry (Intelligent Access) feature is part of vehicle load shed strategy. BCM DTC Fault Trigger Conditions DTC Description Fault Trigger Conditions B1219:11 Interior Boot/Trunk Release Switch: Circuit Short To Ground Sets when the BCM detects a short to ground from the exterior liftgate release switch input circuit. B12EE:11 Liftgate/Tailgate/Trunk Release: Circuit Short To Ground Sets when the BCM detects a short to ground from the liftgate latch release output circuit. B12EE:15 Liftgate/Tailgate/Trunk Release: Circuit Short To Battery or Open Sets when the BCM detects an open from the liftgate latch release output circuit. If the liftgate latch release is inoperative, GO to Pinpoint Test N If the liftgate does not latch, DISCONNECT the liftgate latch electrical connector and CHECK the operation of the latch using a screwdriver. If the latch does not fully latch (2 clicks), INSTALL a new liftgate latch. If the latch fully latches (2 clicks), REFER to the Wiring Diagrams manual to identify the possible cause of the circuit short in the liftgate latch release circuit. Possible Causes Wiring, terminals or connectors Liftgate release switch Liftgate latch BCM Visual Inspection and Diagnostic Pre-checks Inspect the liftgate release switch for damage. PINPOINT TEST N: THE MANUAL LIFTGATE LATCH RELEASE IS INOPERATIVE NOTE: This pinpoint test does not diagnose liftgate release concerns for vehicles with the power liftgate feature. Refer to Section 501-03 for power liftgate diagnostics. N1 CHECK THE LIFTGATE RELEASE INPUT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND USING THE BCM (BODY CONTROL MODULE) LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH STATUS (LFTGATE_R_SW) PID (PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION) Ignition ON. Using a diagnostic scan tool, view the BCM Parameter Identifications (PIDs). Using a diagnostic scan tool, view the BCM PID LFTGATE_R_SW. Does the PID indicate the liftgate release switch is continuously pressed? Yes GO to N2 No GO to N4 N2 CHECK THE LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH USING THE BCM (BODY CONTROL MODULE) LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH STATUS (LFTGATE_R_SW) PID (PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION) Ignition OFF. Disconnect Liftgate Release Switch C4216. Ignition ON. Using a diagnostic scan tool, view the BCM PID LFTGATE_R_SW. Does the PID continue to indicate the switch is pressed? Yes GO to N3 No INSTALL a new liftgate release switch. REFER to: Liftgate Release Switch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation). N3 CHECK THE LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH INPUT CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND Ignition OFF. Disconnect BCM C2280D. Measure: Positive Lead Measurement / Action Negative Lead C4216 Pin 1 Ground Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes GO to N12 No REPAIR the circuit. N4 CHECK THE BCM (BODY CONTROL MODULE) LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH STATUS (LFTGATE_R_SW) PID (PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION) Using a diagnostic scan tool, view the BCM LFTGATE_R_SW PID while pressing the liftgate release switch. Does the PID indicate the switch is pressed? Yes GO to N8 No GO to N5 N5 BYPASS THE LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH WHILE MONITORING THE BCM (BODY CONTROL MODULE) LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH STATUS (LFTGATE_R_SW) PID (PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION) Ignition OFF. Disconnect Liftgate Release Switch. Ignition ON. Connect: Lead 1 Measurement / Action Lead 2 C4216 Pin 1 C4216 Pin 2 Using a diagnostic scan tool, view the BCM LFTGATE_R_SW PID . Does the PID indicate the switch is pressed? Yes REMOVE the fused jumper wire. INSTALL a new liftgate release switch. REFER to: Liftgate Release Switch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation). No REMOVE the fused jumper wire. GO to N6 N6 CHECK THE LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN WHILE MONITORING THE BCM (BODY CONTROL MODULE) LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH STATUS (LFTGATE_R_SW) PID (PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION) Connect: Lead 1 Measurement / Action Lead 2 C4216 Pin 1 Ground Using a diagnostic scan tool, view the BCM LFTGATE_R_SW PID . Does the PID indicate the switch is pressed? Yes REMOVE the fused jumper wire. REPAIR the circuit. No REMOVE the fused jumper wire. GO to N7 N7 CHECK THE LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH INPUT CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN Ignition OFF. Disconnect BCM C2280D. Measure: Positive Lead Measurement / Action Negative Lead C4216 Pin 1 C2280D Pin 1 Is the resistance less than 3 ohms? Yes GO to N12 No REPAIR the circuit. N8 CHECK FOR VOLTAGE TO THE LIFTGATE LATCH RELEASE MOTOR NOTICE: The following step uses a test lamp to simulate normal circuit loads. Use only a Rotunda Test Lamp (SGT27000) or 250-300mA incandescent bulb test lamp. To avoid connector terminal damage, use the Rotunda Flex Probe kit for the test lamp probe connection to the vehicle. Do not use the test lamp probe directly on any connector. Ignition OFF. Disconnect Liftgate Latch C479. Ignition ON. Using a diagnostic scan tool, carry out the BCM self-test. Connect: Positive Lead Measurement / Action Negative Lead C479 Pin 2 Ground Unlock the doors using a door lock control switch. NOTE: The BCM only supplies voltage to the actuator momentarily. It is important to monitor the test lamp while pressing the liftgate release switch. While pressing the liftgate release switch, monitor the test lamp. Does the test lamp momentarily illuminate? Yes GO to N9 No GO to N10 N9 CHECK THE LIFTGATE LATCH RELEASE MOTOR GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN NOTICE: The following step uses a test lamp to simulate normal circuit loads. Use only a Rotunda Test Lamp (SGT27000) or 250-300mA incandescent bulb test lamp. To avoid connector terminal damage, use the Rotunda Flex Probe kit for the test lamp probe connection to the vehicle. Do not use the test lamp probe directly on any connector. Connect: Positive Lead Measurement / Action Negative Lead C479 Pin 2 C479 Pin 5 NOTE: The BCM only supplies voltage to the actuator momentarily. It is important to monitor the test lamp while pressing the liftgate release switch. While pressing the liftgate release switch, monitor the test lamp. Does the test lamp momentarily illuminate? Yes INSTALL a new liftgate latch. REFER to: Liftgate Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation). No REPAIR the circuit. N10 CHECK THE LIFTGATE LATCH RELEASE MOTOR VOLTAGE SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND Ignition OFF. Disconnect BCM C2280F. Measure: Positive Lead Measurement / Action Negative Lead C479 Pin 2 Ground Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes GO to N11 No REPAIR the circuit. N11 CHECK THE LIFTGATE LATCH RELEASE MOTOR VOLTAGE SUPPLY CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN Measure: Positive Lead Measurement / Action Negative Lead C479 Pin 2 C2280F Pin 31 Is the resistance less than 3 ohms? Yes GO to N12 No REPAIR the circuit. N12 CHECK FOR CORRECT BCM (BODY CONTROL MODULE) OPERATION Disconnect and inspect all the BCM connectors. Repair: corrosion (install new connectors or terminals - clean module pins) damaged or bent pins - install new terminals pins pushed-out pins - install new pins as necessary Reconnect the BCM connectors and make sure they seat and latch correctly. Operate the system and determine if the concern is still present. Is the concern still present? Yes CHECK OASIS for any applicable Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). If a TSB exists for this concern, DISCONTINUE this test and FOLLOW TSB instructions. If no Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) address this concern, VIN required to access Guided Routine (BCM) No The system is operating correctly at this time. The concern may have been caused by module connections. ADDRESS the root cause of any connector or pin issues. Document download links> Liftgate Latch Manual Release - General Procedures - 2015 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Liftgate Latch - Removal and Installation - 2015 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf LIFTGATE-LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LID LATCH - Connector C479 Details - 2015 Edge.pdf LIFTGATE-LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LID LATCH - Connector C479 Location - 2015 Edge.pdf Liftgate Release Switch - Removal and Installation - 2015 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH - Connector C4216 Details - 2015 Edge.pdf LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH - Connector C4216 Location - 2015 Edge.pdf Liftgate Trim Panel - Removal and Installation - 2015 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Body Control Module (BCM) - Connectors C2280D & C2280F Attachment Locations on BCM - 2015 Edge.pdf BODY CONTROL MODULE (BCM) - Connector C2280D Details - 2015 Edge.pdf BODY CONTROL MODULE (BCM) - Connector C2280D Location - 2015 Edge.pdf BODY CONTROL MODULE (BCM) - Connector C2280F Details - 2015 Edge.pdf BODY CONTROL MODULE (BCM) - Connector C2280F Location - 2015 Edge.pdf Beyond this Pinpoint Test N diagnostic procedure, I find no Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) addressing the liftgate latching issue you describe. Good luck!

Auto stores/Amazon sell thin 3m double stick tape so you don't have to damage car body with glues. Probably same stuff it was applied with. Might want to take a heat gun, get entire protector off, clean up all surfaces, reapply.

Actually a lot to unpack in that one small post. It is possible to add the OEM remote start to your vehicle. It is documented here: It is a little more complex (well, expensive) for you with only one fob. I don't know the best way to proceed since you need 2 new fobs (with the remote start button and the different frequency) but you can't program them yourself since it requires 2 existing ones. Having 2 fobs makes getting the securcode keypad code easy.

theoretically it is possible to upgrade older engines to the newer parts you mentioned. it has been done on the Flex if you want to research that. there is a spreadsheet that shows part numbers involved.

Thought it was time to retire the 2005 Ford 500 , was going to get an Escape but felt it was a bit too small. I have 100 KM so far.....LOL , I don't want to wear it out . I was a Ford dealer mechanic for many years up here in Ontario and still tend to favour Ford although they have had some stinkers over the years but so have other companies. Cheers , hope to learn a few things on here.

Our oldest daughters 2008 Ford Tarus Limited fwd...same engine and transmission...was all highway miles by older retired couple. The water pump went at 145,000 miles. She was in college so I had a shop do the work. When it was apart the tensioner guides had little wear so we just did the water pump. She now has 205,000 miles on it several years later and no issues. Our middle daughters 2008 Ford Edge Limited fwd had the water pump fail at 125,000 miles. She was also in college, but I decided to save the money and go get it via a tow dolly and bring it home for the repair. I did water pump, tensioners, lower gears, chain, plugs, etc. If I remember right I rented the timing holding tool locally. I just bought the car back from her last month with 143,500 miles and no issues because it has had the trouble issues fixed...well, I did have to put new OSS and TSS sensors in the transmission. I found out later there is an updated double roller timing chain and sprockets. I didn't replace the oil pump on either of these cars and so far it's all good.

They are exactly the same as the stock ones.

I used 2 fuse taps connected one to fuse #5 (always on) and #35 (switched on/off) installed a DPST toggle switch next to the steering column and ran the output from the switch thru the dash cam 12 to 5 volt converter and on to the dash cam, this way I can select if I want always on for parking mode or only on while driving.

Document download link> 2008 Pioneer Navigation System Supplement.pdf Good luck!

On 09 MKX the drivers side did this. Tried carefully reinstalling it and left it closed exposed to the hot sun to retake its shape. Worked for a while, but all it took is one close to again bend out of shape. Eventually bit the bullet and bought a replacment. Comes as a kit with the weather shield bellows and steel rods. As you found, expensive as hell, but there's no other choice if you want to restore OEM performance. Purchase appears to be as a weather seal. Replacement has been perfect for several years now. Wrote a description of the replacement here:

I tried it and to your point, I had the door open so it didnt show any code. I checked the menu under “Keys” and it is showing 3 Admin keys but I only have two. Im assuming the dealer or the previous owner has/had the other. I will try again.

I will be moving my content to the Ford Explorer side of the forum. I will still maintain my fleet of Ford Edges from 2011 through 2019. Time to move over to the Explorer world and begin by doing a complete fluid change of everything to start off on the right foot as it is a 2017 Explorer Sport 3.5 TT Ecoboost. Stay tuned for the introduction video on MACT Garage on Youtube and Facebook.

Thanks. However, the title should be changed to 2014 as the 2015 Edge is completely different. The 2015 MKX is similar though.

I'm only about 4 hours ride from the Tail of the Dragon and plan on taking my BMW motorcycle there this season. https://tailofthedragon.com/

I'm wondering what all of your general opinions are on this tiny mod--reverting to the round exhaust tips over the odd vertical-trapezoid stock tips on the 2019 Edge ST? This is a "round peg in a trapezoid hole" scenario, but I think it works--I had a very odd and strong aversion to the shape of those stock tips. These replacements are stainless, were 9" length with 2.5" in and 4" out, about $40 for the pair. I believe the actual size of the muffler exit pipes are 2.25, but it appears Ford punched an oval flare die into the exit pipe (not sure why--it's hidden). So to get these to slip on without sawing off the flare, I got the 2.5 size inlet for the new tips, used large channel locks to de-oval the exit pipe flare, and to make the clamp work on the smaller pipe after I'd cleared the flare, I had wrapped several layers of aluminum heat tape around the pipe, and the 2.5 clamp worked perfectly. There are 3 stainless 8mm bolts that hold the stock tips to the bumper (they are not connected to the muffler exit pipes). Two bolts on either side--very easy--but one bolt is on top and very hard to see or reach. I used a flex-extension on a 1/4 drive ratchet and blindly found the hex head and got it out. There is also a plastic sort of mounting bracket, which I thought was a fairly elaborate piece of molded plastic for just holding the stock tips. Anyway, I left that in--some of the torx screws were behind the tow-bar cross-frame, so that ended any thought of removing those. But you can't see them unless you get down real close and look. Plus they're black, and I put tiny strips of black gorilla tape over the now-empty bolt holes and tab-slots, so it doesn't have that "something's missing" look.

The oil pan is plastic and it mounts to aluminum. Because of the different expansion rates of the two materials, a leak can appear. It is critical that the dealer follows the manufactures instructions to the letter in order to do a proper repair. If they rush the job or cut any corners the new pan will leak. Beware of dealers coating the entire oil pan with great gobs of RTV, that is not a manufacturer-approved repair and is a temporary fix at best. Here is a link to a Ford notice on the subject. It is super important to give the RTV time to cure before use. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164418-0001.pdf

Don't remember reading of anyone facing this before. I found this mentioned in the service manual: Was the parking switch disconnected for any reason? I also found this note:

Clearly you don’t live in a city, or anywhere in Jersey. The horn has a lot of different meanings in NY/NJ. In 25+ years of driving, I can’t recall a day where I haven’t used it.

Have the fuel at 3/4 of a tank or less. Remove the rear seat and access cover. You need a special wrench or something to remove the lock nut on the fuel pump module. Lift out carefully and remove the fuel jumper tube on the inside.(AWD models) Then voila. So pretty easy if you have the right tools.