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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Pulling the front fascia/bumper via the ford manual wasn't the best. It has you pulling the tires, and half pulling the wheel well liners to get to the 3 bolts on each side that hold the bumper on. Screw that noise. Pull the headlights and get them from above. Removing the stock FMIC was a PITA. I dropped the lower rad support, disconnected the Cold and Hotside charge pipes. The did a pry wiggle to pop off the FMIC mounting Hooks off the rad. Thankfully the UP FMIC does not use the same setup, lol. Big size difference. Not as big as the 5.5" core on my Focus ST though, lmao! Had to shim out the TMAP sensor. If installed normally, the O-ring overshot the flange and did not seal at all. If this becomes problematic aka boost leak, then I will have to re-address it. The O ring is sealing tight now. Hopefully it stays that way. These parts hit, took the angle grinder to them, then cleaned them up with a razor knife. I need to do the same to the closest inside dimple on both sides. The front air damn piece has some curvature to it, and those hit as well. Pried off the front overhanging plastic due to it hitting on the radiator lower support cross member. Hit it with some paint afterwards. Rust and all. Re-used the factory hose clamp assemblies, and torqued the crap out of them. You have to push the FMIC as far to the passenger side as possible to get enough clearance to get the cold side hooked up. It took me awhile to get my Ramfab pipe installed. It fits very precisely, once I got it all aligned, it was fantastic. Removed all the AGS shutters, screw that system. Known point of failure on the Focus ST platform, failing closed is no bueno. I still have the motor installed/plugged in, and kept the shrowding for mounting/airflow reasons. Its a lot of FMIC for that space, and the OEM lower grill covers a large portion. I have a more open lower grill arriving via Ebay next week. I'll do before and after pics. I also need to loosen the fmic mounting bolts, and push up on the unit to level it out and possible buy me a little better fitment, not that there's a lot of vertical play in the mounting slots. Going to have to pull the front end again to finish the AEM water meth setup, but right now she rips. Throttle response is better despite having a larger FMIC, that Ramfab pipe really helps. Im on a Unleashed 93 base ish map. Excited to get tuned for the FMIC, coldside, and of course the water meth!!!
  2. 3 points
    Here's a neat trick I learned at the Bondourant driving school in Arizona. To set your left outside mirror put your cheek against the window then adjust the mirror inward or outward until you can 'just' see the side of your car. The right side is pretty much the same but adjust it out so it 'just' leaves the view of the right side. Now when you're driving you'll have a complete panoramic view. As vehicles leave the left or right side of your center (cabin) mirror they'll begin appearing in your side mirrors. The vertical adjustment is on you but ideally the mirror will put a typical car's grille smack in the middle. BTW if you're used to seeing the whole side of your car in the mirror it'll take a little time to get used to the new setup but you'll see a whole lot more road now.
  3. 3 points
    Replaced with a new one for $28. Took 20 minutes. Filled up twice already with no issues. Thanks again!
  4. 3 points
    Well I finally swapped my useless "fuse box door" for a drawer from a 2015 -'18. In one of my previous posts, I explained that I was concerned that the drawer might interfere with some components behind the dash but no, it did fit perfectly . Claude.
  5. 3 points
    That's a classic symptom of a bad vacuum purge valve. The problem seems to be caused most often when an owner tops off the gas with a couple of extra 'clicks' of the nozzle. Raw fuel finds its way into lines that are supposed to have air (vacuum) in them which messes things up. Sometimes though it's just an aging part gone bad. The good news is the purge valve is inexpensive and easy to replace. You'll find YouTube videos showing how to test it and, if bad, replace it.
  6. 3 points
    I did mine a couple days ago. I have a 2018 Titanium and it DID have a drain plug. It was a bit of a pain to get to so make sure the exhaust isn't hot as you will be working around it. It takes a 3/8 ratchet wrench to get the fill plug out and you can only do barely 1/8th turns so it takes a while to get until it will spin freely by hand. The drain plug was a 1/4" allen key (I used an allen wrench.) Some advise. Wrap the exhaust pipe area where the fluid will drain down with aluminum foil before you pull the plugs. Cover a large enough area that will keep the oil draining out from getting onto the pipes and flanges. This first time I just drained it down onto the pipes and even after extensive cleaning with brake cleaner it still took two days of commuting before the nasty smell of burning gear oil dissipated. All in all... was a pretty simple job with the right tools and a $8 pump from the local auto parts store. I used mobil-1 full synthetic 75w140 and today my Amsoil Severe Gear 75w140 showed up. Next oil change I will swap out the mobile 1 because it should only take about 15 minutes to service the PTU since I understand how to do it now. There's a very good video on the PTU fluid change requirement from a ford tech on youtube. He explains why NOT to listen to the dealers recommendation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sS9JPaf1MDg
  7. 2 points
    DW's 2004 Buick Rainier 5.3 V8 with 70k on the clock got T-Boned Saturday, so we went test driving cars Sunday and one was a 2015 Sport, and there was no turning back. Yesterday we drove home a new 2020 ST with 1500 miles as a dealer loaner. It was discounted 9500 bucks.
  8. 2 points
    -Rough country 30 inch DRL curved light bar, mounted inside grill. -Akkon DRL blacked out headlight assemblys. -Daytime brightlight blacked out, running lights with turn signals. -Magnaflow cat back 3 inch SS -Aid raid throttle body spacer -K&N cold air intake -SCT Livewire ts+, tuned for 94 oct
  9. 2 points
    My guess would be due to the high pressure put on the intake system from the turbos would help clean it out. The carbon build up problem in early DI engines were naturally aspirated engines and with EGR systems. Modern vehicles having turbos and with better timing control that replace EGR systems would help reduce carbon build up. Also, engine & intake designs play a critical rule as even some port fuel injected engines suffered carbon build up. But at least with port injection additives could be added to fuel.
  10. 2 points
    Your mirrors are probably not adjusted correctly. You should not be able to see the side of the vehicle.
  11. 2 points
    how's that possible when no fuel/cleaning additives hit the back of the intake valves? Having a Catch Can would prevent most of the deposits from forming on the intake valves in the 1st place.
  12. 2 points
    Hey all! I got my ST on a dyno for some baselines and all I have to say is...WOW! 261 hp and 336 tq at the wheel on the first pull! Car is in stock form save for a JLT catch can. All pulls were done on 93 octane. Already have the Unleashed tune in (Thanks Torrie!) and waiting for some more dyno time for the results!
  13. 2 points
    tyyrael , I built this years ago and It was a big fail !! The underhood temps of the 2.7EB Edge are so extreme that it actually took power away. When everything is cold upon startup it works great, as soon as the car gets up to temp and everything gets heat soaked power drops way off and warning lights come on. Snmjin and I both have answers to the CAI problem, but getting these items into production is difficult.
  14. 2 points
    Everything is still solid, no harsh engagements and all shifts are smooth!
  15. 2 points
    The standard wheels on the ST are 20", not 18". One more difference, 20" replacement tires are generally cheaper and easier to find than 21" tires. Also, 21" are more prone to damage due to the lower profile tires.
  16. 2 points
    The setting in the ACM isn't enough to turn off the fake engine noise, it also has to be turned off in the DSP. Note this also disables ANC (active noise control) 783-01-01 Cxxx xxxx xxxx
  17. 2 points
    The vibrant t-bolt clamps we used can be found at most Pepboys speed shops. Fantastic quality and they hold firm! just a little pricey. Inside secret I'll let you in on, spray a little hairspray around the inside of the tube before attaching, this helps with the seal and a secure attachment.
  18. 1 point
    Not at all. We’re saying that we’ve seen very few if any aftermarket fan assemblies that actually work correctly. Most don’t work at all. Some work for awhile. I’ve probably heard of half a dozen or more dormans that were bad out of the box. But Ive never heard or seen an issue with Motorcraft. Has nothing to do with other parts, just fans.
  19. 1 point
    It took a ford tech two tries to get it right for my car so yeah it has to be done right!
  20. 1 point
    I can get over there and talk to them in person . They are about 2 hrs away so I will set something up with them before I go. Real busy now so give me a couple of weeks to get 'er done.
  21. 1 point
    If you're willing to trim them a little, the rear factory ones will fit well enough to look good.
  22. 1 point
    Did they replace the drain tube it at all, or just kinked it or something? I ask because it's normally (and I'm not sure about your year) not as bad to un-kink or un-clog an evap drain tube, but if it isn't there at all then...yeah...dealer needs to get back in there.
  23. 1 point
    Hope for the best for future. The Palisade seems a really nice ride. Hope you enjoy and it serves you for many years & miles.
  24. 1 point
    I removed it on my ST, gave a bit more exhaust note under acceleration, no drone.
  25. 1 point
    Learn to signal, like you're supposed to. It's not hard, it's courteous, and it's the right thing to do.
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