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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Mods & Accessories seems like a good place to post this. HOLD OFF, ABORT, WARNING, WARNING! I updated my firmware yesterday then tried to load and use FORScan this morning. While loading I noticed a ton of DTCs. What the? When trying to make a small change (testing a new on/off toggle for the liftgate kick sensor) FORScan couldn't read the BDYCM module. Hmmm. So I rolled the MX+ update back to the previous version and connected to the Edge again. Everything's good. SO there may be something wrong with the new firmware. I'd suggest not updating yet. I'll contact OBDLink and let you know if they have a comment. Original post: If you're using an OBDLink code reader with FORScan or any other program/app that uses an OBDII reader there's probably an update waiting for you right now. The company has posted new firmware for their popular EX, MX and MX+ models over the past couple of weeks. Here's a link to the downloads page. Just choose your device to download: https://www.scantool.net/scantool/downloads/updates/ Note: To install just unzip the folder, connect your laptop to the OBDLink code reader (your Edge can be in accessory mode) then run StnFirmwareUpdater.exe . If you're connecting to a wireless device you might have to hunt down the com port being used. The updater defaults to Com 4 but my device (MX+) connected on Com 14. Cheers!
  2. 4 points
    This was a programmable option on my Sorento. Its odd that Ford/Lincoln doesn't offer it. On the other hand I've never had an issue with the lift-gate closing on me while loading/unloading. This might be more of an issue for people with......
  3. 3 points
    This item has been added to the Gadget Edge Mods Page: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge/forscan/forscan.html#lgate Toggle The Liftgate Kick Sensor Off/On There seems to be a love/hate relationship with the liftgate kick sensor. Many love it for the convenience of being able to open or close the hatch with an easy foot movement toward the bumper. It's usually the 'close' part that some don't care for, especially when the liftgate tries to close while a human is leaning into the cargo compartment. It's doing that because the sensor (mounted under the bumper) thinks it sees a kick when it might simply be a normal foot movement. If that happens to you and you have a Gen2 Edge (2015-) the sensor can be turned off. To make the change, start FORScan and navigate to the BdyCM Module Configuration (not AsBuilt) and scroll down to "Hands Free Liftgate". Click twice on that item and you'll see a box that lets you Enable or Disable the feature. Click Disable then save it. You'll hear the familiar relay clicking from under the dash, your lights will flash and...you're done! Try the kick sensor. If the change has been successful it won't work (until you turn it on again) but the open/close buttons on the liftgate still function normally. Cheers!
  4. 2 points
    This is a quick cheap mod you can do to get the most out of your OEM sub-woofer. I picked this up over at the F150forums when I wasn't pleased with the way my Sony sub sounded. Adding Polyfill inside the enclosure made a great change, best part is it didn't even cost $5. I decided to try this out on the Edge this weekend and the results were great. The poly fill actually tricks the sub into thinking it's in a much larger enclosure. The driver cone responds better in a larger enclosure and smooths out the bass hit. Things you will need $5 Bag of Polyfill (I purchased a 16oz bag and used 1/6 of it) 10mm, 8mm & 7mm Sockets Trim tool if you have one. (Harbor Freight has them for cheap) 30-45 mins 1) Remove the cover for the spare tire & the bin on the right side. 2) Remove the lower center trim. Held on by some trim clips, there are two on the back side too. 3) Make your way to the right side of the cargo area and slowly work way up the panel on the right side releasing the trim clips as you go up. No reason to remove the whole panel, you just need enough room to pull the enclosure out. I had my wife hold back the panel as I unbolted and removed the enclosure. 4) Remove 2 10mm bolts (top and left sides of enclosure) and 10mm nut (bottom side of enclosure). Then pull out the enclosure by lifting up and pulling. 5) Take out the 8 7mm screws surrounding the sub and the 8mm bolt on the bottom of the enclosure. 6) Lift up the sub and pull out the material that is inside and start stuffing the enclosure with Polyfill. Make sure to get every cavity. Do not over pack it and leave enough room for the sub fit back inside. I forgot to take a picture of the enclosure filled with polyfill so I included a picture from the write up I did for my F150. To get everything back together and back in follow the instructions in reverse order.
  5. 2 points
    I'm surprised that one has to use FORScan to disable the kick sensor. It should be readily accessible.
  6. 2 points
    Never heard of brake fluid viscosity being an issue even in cold climates. Brake fluid is super thin to begin with but I guess low viscosity wouldn’t hurt.
  7. 2 points
    I don’t see how any of them would perform any differently.
  8. 1 point
    so ive never been a big fan of 8" subs...the difference in sound between an 8" sub and even a 10" is huge to my ears.so options for the edge are as follows...u can accept the system that you have in your edge now....bye a stelth box with JL audio 10..... Build your own fiberglass enclosure......or...you can modify your factory enclosure to accept a 10" shallow mount sub! i know the enclosure is tech to small for even a shallow mount..but not by much. here is how i modified the plastic enclosure step by step. it is in the car and finished and it sounds awesome for a small enclosure...i will eventually build a box but am very pleased with this finished product for now. first i only found one sub that was close enough in dimensions to even try this. i used a kicker comp R dvc 10 2ohm. you will need to make a ring out of 3/4" MDF any less than 3/4 the enclosure is to shallow,any more than 3/4 your quarter panel will touch the surround.yes,its that close. for the kicker the ring dimensions are 9 1/8" inside and 10 1/2" outside,i used a divider caliper i got from harbor freight for like 9 bucks...carbide tip marks well on most any surfaces. jigsaw to cut ring or router if u have one.sand ring smooth corners. the ring should fit flat along the ridge that travels arond the enclosure.there is a very small piece i had to cut where the mounting arm is on the oposite side..ill post pics of all this..i cut out with a cut off wheel on my dremil..but the ring will cover the hole perfectly and will seal at the end of the mod. after you cut the piece out from the mounting arm the ring should sit flat all the way around. place the ring under the sub frame and mark the mounting holes for the sub on the ring.. place the ring on the enclosure and drill holes with counter sink bit ..i drilled two and put screws in right away to secure ring.once the ring is secure to enclosure cut out plastic inside the ring..i stayed 1/4 inch away from inside of ring so i had a good lip to seal with silicone on the inside as well as outside ring. i painted the ring black just because i wanted it to match,,do whatever u like. silicone bead around bottom of ring and secure to enclosure. tool the silicone inside ring and around outside.. set driver in and if u didnt paint your matks from before will still be there if you paint remark hole and pre drill...mount sub into enclosure and go hook it up! hope this is useful to someone...i havnt seen anyone put a ten in that plastic box ..it isnt permanant in my edge..i will make a fiberglass box eventually but for now..it cost me maybe 25 bucks in material and whatever you pay for your driver,,,enjoy! anyone want to buy a polk audio 8" dvc?
  9. 1 point
    After many many years and many many different sizes and styles of audio systems I decided to go very simple on this build. The B&O mids and highs aren't the best, but for factory they are pretty good so for now they are staying that way. This build consists of adding a single sub with ported box, using a Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12", Atrend 2.12cuft ported box tuned to 32Hz, a Sundown Audio SFB-1000D amplifier with a Audio Control LC2i. I also have some important NOTES at the bottom of this post for anyone who is doing an install similar to this in a 2019/2020 Edge ST. Here is my baby. There was one main hurdle in this install, that's the power wire there are very few factory spots, in fact I could only locate one, it wasn't until I actually bought the gear to put in my edge did I finally get off my butt and use that spot. This is an oval shaped grommet on the left side (as you look at the engine bay) firewall. This Photo is NOT mine however it shows the location of the grommet I used. I used a tool I picked up a while ago to make this easier they are wire insertion tools, I got a set of them one is 8 gauge the other is 4 gauge. https://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE476-Wire-Insertion-Combo/dp/B000K1IEAC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Here is a picture of the 4 gauge one I used to run my power wire. After getting it through the grommet you will want to push towards the left side of the vehicle, so towards the passenger door, the wire will eventually poke out from behind the blower which to get to you have to undo the glove box which has a small side arm that you slide inwards slightly then pull it out, then there are two tabs at the top of the glove box you push in slightly then pull down the glove box. Here is a picture of the power wire at the battery. I then routed the wire down the step panels all the way into the rear hatch area. Be careful of breaking the white clips ford used for the step panels and other panels inside the edge, if you break some, as I did, grab a bag of them off amazon as I did. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5BW95/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also recommend this kit if you don't already have one, helps a lot with removing clips and panels with little to no damage. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081GFP4SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Since I had the power wire done, it was time to move on to the amp/LC2i mounting. I wanted to do as little modification as possible so I used a small piece of plywood covered in black carpet to fit inside the foam insert under the rear hatch. This was screwed in from the bottom of the insert to keep it from possibly sliding around. With that done, I used a 1 and 1/8th hole saw bit to drill out a hole and put a snap grommet in with a little adhesive. I then routed all the wires in and got things where I wanted including the fuse holder. With that done, I then moved to putting in the box and holders for it. The holders are just 3/4" plywood carpeted and screwed in from the underside of the floor cover. And here is what it looks like with my normal use things in the rear, the net and 3 moving blankets. Overall, I am VERY pleased with how this came out, the sound is perfect for me. And I can remove the sub/box in under 5mins, wire nut cap the leads and have all my cargo room back if necessary for a trip to HomeDepot/Lowes. NOTES 1) This vehicle has Active Noise Control, and this WILL introduce a solid TONE over any subwoofer addition using a converter such as the LC2i or similar. You can use Forscan with a laptop to turn off ANC, you will need the OBDII adapter and the software around $80-$150 depending on how long of a license you purchase for forscan. You can also cut the ANC wires (I don't know which they are) at the amplifier. OR you can do what I did which was free, and only a minor pain in the rear, AND it does not modify the vehicle permanently. There are THREE ANC microphones in the Edge ST, two up front and one in the rear hatch in the headliner. The rear microphone is the ticket, you can pull up the hatch seal that contacts the headliner at the rear, then gently pull down the headliner, there are a few magnets that help hold it up, so do NOT freak out when they disengage. Then you can squeeze a arm in and undo the clip on that rear microphone, and your ANC is now OFF. 2) Subwoofer wire tapping; there are 4 wires to the factory sub in the Edge ST because its a DVC subwoofer. At the time of doing this install, there were NO diagrams online I could find, so I reached out to some contacts and I got information for what each pin is. Coil #1 Purple/Blue is Positive, Yellow/Blue is Negative. Coil #2 Yellow/Purple is Positive, Green/Blue is Negative.
  10. 1 point
    Thanks for the heads up. Note: you can also update using your phone with the OBDLink app (at least on the Android app). Settings>Firmware upgrade. The app would download it for you and flash it directly.
  11. 1 point
    Some dealers aren’t following the repair procedure. Try a different dealer.
  12. 1 point
    15 Ford Edge 2.7tt ruthenium plugs, msd ignition coils, JMS boostmax, blowoff valve, oil separator for crankcase pressure, k and n, molded fiberglass stereo with about 2700watts, Odyssey AGM battery released this year, sound equalizers, Stephens milled aluminum tweeters, 2x exile subs, fuses for electronics. stereo isn’t finished but should be soon.
  13. 1 point
    This post along with a video I found helped me out a ton with this issue. Hoping it's gone for good, or atleast for now and if it happens again I'm gonna do the exact same thing. Had the same issue, sloshing sound from my passenger side, that weird hissing noise ONLY when I turned left with my AC on from my passenger side. I first thought something was hitting against my tire as I turned. Thankfully found this thread when I googled it. Used a can of compressed air from Walgreens Got to the hose, removed it from the nipple, blew air down the white nipple peice and nothing came out from under my car, then blew air up the black hose. Got a few drops, blew some more air and then the water started coming out like a faucet. Got about half a gallon of black water out of there, maybe a bit more. Had little debris in it, a couple little pieces of leaf twigs. Sprayed more air and nothing came out. Hoping this is fixed, especially that hissing sound when I turn left. If it's still there imma guess I'll need a new fan motor or something that I can't do myself (not a mechanic) but hopefully that's the end of it. Going to place a new cabin air filter in aswell. Haven't updated that since I got the car December 2018(2011 Ford edge Limited) Seriously though, really appreciate this thread. Guarantee a mechanic would've easily charged me $100 to do this.
  14. 1 point
    Go register at blueovalforums.com - all the order guides are posted there.
  15. 1 point
    Got that new "Oil Level Indicator" today. My old one broke off on it's own and then decided to drop beneath the valve cover in all my attempts to get it out. looks pretty good for 84,000 miles once the dipstick gets to this level, there's literally no way to get it out unless you pull the cover.. tinted the tails last week too
  16. 1 point
    The setting in the ACM isn't enough to turn off the fake engine noise, it also has to be turned off in the DSP. Note this also disables ANC (active noise control) 783-01-01 Cxxx xxxx xxxx
  17. 1 point
    Ford does have an add on security module that has a shock sensor in it. No vehicle comes from the factory with it. It has been added at some point. It also is part of adding remote start if not equipped from the factory. You will have to find where the module is mounted and there is knob that turns and adjusts sensitivity. https://accessories.ford.com/electronics/vehicle-security/electronic-module-12157.html
  18. 1 point
    Ford has had ST-Line models in Europe for many years - alongside ST models. This is not new.
  19. 1 point
    Omg use a different shop now! You don't gut catalytic converters unless you have O2 sims or a way to tune them out. Some vehicles can end up running terrible after if you don't and no decent shop would have considered this a fix or diagnostic test. The problem could be still just a bad O2 sensor, which will indicate a catalytic converter is bad when it isn't, or still bad gas cap. Sorry but imo they should have never touched anything that they did unless you missed listing other diagnostic details.
  20. 1 point
    Here ya go. Edge Roof Opening Panel Track Cleaning.pdf I think the instructions are a little over the top when it comes to using a garden hose in the track. ;) For bottle brushes, this set from Harbor Freight is hard to beat: https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-tube-pipe-nylon-brush-set-90631.html
  21. 1 point
    Hi there, I'm in the transportation window industry and have tested both types extensively. Both have their pros and cons. When performing FMVSS 217 push-out testing, laminated 6mm typically lets go at around 4-500 lbs of force application. 6mm tempered can exceed 1,200 pounds. Laminated is best for passenger retention and has the best impact absorption properties. Tempered is really tough but when it lets go it makes a hell of a mess as you well know. Ford switched to tempered because it can handle a high degree of loading and twisting. It has superior tensile strength and will take a lot more abuse before it does let go. They probably went thinner too to reduce weight. Tempered glass with film application is the ultimate though. That would be my choice.
  22. 1 point
    I'm not sure what software SCT uses although there are a lot of tuners that use them. Personally speaking I would go with Nguage or MPVI2. They both use HPTuners software. Once you buy the credits you can go with any tuner that utilizes HPTuners software. BCB or Unleashed comes to mind. All you would need to do is purchase the tune. IMO the provide the most flexibility. Mycalibrator touch is made by Livernois and can only be used with Livernois. Keep in mind that with Livernois you are limited in what additional mods they will tune for. For example they have tunes for most mods because they may have tuned an edge on site with those mods. You never know until you ask them. You go over the top and get new turbos and other goodies and Livernois will ask you to come in and pay for dyno time. Most if not all tuners will tune the transmission shift points along with tuning the engine. Regardless of whichever tune you prefer to go with you should look into getting a 170 degree thermostat. The Afe filter is a drop in replacement that performs well tune or untuned. The catch can is used as an integral part of basic preventive maintenance. It has no bearing on whether or not your engine is tuned. Snmjimm and SpecialK are developing an CAI that actually looks like it will be the only one available that truly seals the the intake from the hot air the engine makes. The rest on the market do not provide an adequate seal just utilizing the hood. Most people get improved throttle response. A tune will make the most of the CAI. There are other mods you can make that will take your edge to the next level. Check out SpecialK mod subsection. You will find links to forum discussions and links to make purchases etc. Enjoy your edge!
  23. 1 point
  24. 0 points
    Anyone have any luck with Ford on this issue? 2017 Edge Titanium
  25. 0 points
    I am now having the same problem affecting my 2015 Edge Sport. I went to the dealer before the winter of 2018 and was given the condensation explanation for why there was mist/condensation in the taillights. Now I'm 3 months out of the original 36 month manufactures warranty and of course, Ford does not want to recognize or admit to poor design which causes this problem. I'm trying to enlist some help from my local news station to get Ford's attention. If all else fails I will look into what it takes to file a class action suit.