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  1. 3 points
    Try these Forscan codes: 720-02-02 (2013+ MY) xxxx XXxx (IPC) 00 (Disabled) AA (Enabled - Vehicle Without Heated Seats) FA (Enabled w/Climate Control) - 2013-2014 FD (Enabled w/Climate Control) - 2015+ FE (Enabled w/Climate Control and Heated Steering Wheel) 720-02-02 xxxx *xxx Rem Start - Climate Settings (RSCS), Rem Start -Driver Seat (RSD), Rem Start - Feature (RSF), Rem Start - Pass Seat (RSPS) 0=RSCS disabled, RSD disabled, RSF disabled, RSPS disabled 8=RSCS enabled, RSD disabled, RSF disabled, RSPS disabled 1=RSCS disabled, RSD disabled, RSF disabled, RSPS enabled 9=RSCS enabled, RSD disabled, RSF disabled, RSPS enabled 2=RSCS disabled, RSD disabled, RSF enabled, RSPS disabled A=RSCS enabled, RSD disabled, RSF enabled, RSPS disabled 3=RSCS disabled, RSD disabled, RSF enabled, RSPS enabled B=RSCS enabled, RSD disabled, RSF enabled, RSPS enabled 4=RSCS disabled, RSD enabled, RSF disabled, RSPS disabled C=RSCS enabled, RSD enabled, RSF disabled, RSPS disabled 5=RSCS disabled, RSD enabled, RSF disabled, RSPS enabled D=RSCS enabled, RSD enabled, RSF disabled, RSPS enabled 6=RSCS disabled, RSD enabled, RSF enabled, RSPS disabled E=RSCS enabled, RSD enabled, RSF enabled, RSPS disabled 7=RSCS disabled, RSD enabled, RSF enabled, RSPS enabled F=RSCS enabled, RSD enabled, RSF enabled, RSPS enabled 720-02-02 xxxx x*xx Rem Start - Rear Defrost (RSRD), Rem Start - Steering Wheel (RSSW), Not In Park (NIP) 0=RSRD disabled, RSSW disabled, NIP disabled A=RSRD enabled, RSSW disabled, NIP disabled 1=RSRD disabled, RSSW disabled, NIP enabled B=RSRD enabled, RSSW disabled, NIP enabled 6=RSRD disabled, RSSW enabled, NIP disabled C=RSRD enabled, RSSW enabled, NIP disabled 7=RSRD disabled, RSSW enabled, NIP enabled D=RSRD enabled, RSSW enabled, NIP enabled
  2. 3 points
    Many many thanks to TMarsh for posting this mod. I used his excellent instructions to swap out gearshift knobs today and it's working great. The photo above shows a Ford Focus (2012-2014) part installed in the '16 Edge. It was $27 on eBay. Note the two push button switches. I'm going to add a couple of items that might answer questions others might have when doing this. 1. Watch the first part of this video first. It'll help with removing some of the center console parts. Don't worry, everything just snaps out no muss, no fuss. You can stop 3:30 into the video with all the info you'll need. 2. Check out this Selector Lever Knob.pdf for help actually removing the old shift knob. Once the cup holder assembly is removed (video link above) you can pry up the black square from the shift assembly. There are four keepers. Pull (gently) and the leather trim will turn inside out. Now you can cut the zip tie holding the trim to the shifter. There are two Phillips head screws holding the shift knob to the post. Remove them and the knob will pull right off. 3. I reversed TMs instructions for connections in the steering column so my top button upshifts and the bottom button downshifts. Totally up to you, just check the button continuity to identify which color wire does what before installing. 4. A little counter intuitive is removal of the steering column cover. You'll be using a T20 Torx driver and a 7mm socket on the bottom of the column. When those two fasteners are removed you can lift the 'top' of the column cover partway off. It'll stay attached by a strip of leather so don't get crazy pulling on it. 5. I used this multi-conductor cable for the wire run. You only need three of the four wires so can pull off the extra and you'll have a whole bunch left over. This photo shows the connector with my homemade back probes installed. Note: If you don't want to make your own probes they can be purchased from MirrorTap. You have to call them 888-497-8388 and order a set of MTX-TAPS. I don't know the cost. Another option is to cut or strip (good luck, it's 26 gauge) the three wires and splice yours in. And this one shows the OEM plug back in place. Button everything back up and go for a ride. Now you have the option of up/down shifting with your hand on the shift lever or using the paddles. This works in both Drive and Sport mode except in Sport mode the transmission will wait for your button push or paddle pull. In Drive you can up/downshift on your own but the transmission can override your commands. Finally, tattling on myself: 1. I lost the two screws holding the shift knob to the stalk. I 'knew' exactly where I'd placed them but when it was time to put everything back together couldn't find them anywhere. I searched 45 minutes with my son helping. Suddenly I heard "uh, dad." He was holding my led flashlight, the one I'd been using most of this time to find the screws.....the one with the strong magnet on the base. Yep, at some point I'd placed the flashlight near the screws and it collected them. I'd essentially had them in my hand the whole time I searched. DOH! 2. When connecting the wires to the steering post plug my hatch popped open. Gads, do I have the wrong connectors? How could this happen? I went back and closed the hatch. A few minutes later it happened again! What? Turns out when working with the wires I was touching the hatch button on the dash. Again....DOH! Cheers!
  3. 2 points
    considering the post was 2013, We def know it was not a 2.7TT
  4. 2 points
    There was a message on it with Ford foe a fix. Though it seems what @onyxbfly suggested might be a similar fix. https://ford.oemdtc.com/3616/remote-start-selections-grayed-out-for-heated-steering-wheel-heated-seats-2015-2018-ford-edge-2016-2018-lincoln-mkx
  5. 1 point
    I have been working on this project for a while and am finally satisfied with the final outcome. I used a 17 Explorer Platinum instrument cluster and loaded the firmware for the Euro spec Edge which uses the same style cluster. I messed with the programming data A LOT and believe I have everything working as it should now. Def. like the upper style cluster much better. Each cluster has its pros and cons but I do like this one over the original cluster. Mileage was matched at the time of swap. On the first video when I click a seatbelt...its the front passenger seat I am doing.
  6. 1 point
    The idea of this is to allow more volume under the sight shield for better air flow. After I covered the clay with aluminum foil and extended the edges with foam core, clear packing tape covered the entire thing as the release agent. Several layers of fiberglass cloth and mat were then applied.
  7. 1 point
    Although I posted the finished project in another thread I thought I would follow up with what I started here . This is the clay after shaping. I made sure the hood would close and used small worms of clay to check hood clearance. You can see where the closed hood smashed the worms and how much space I have left. I did this every inch across the entire form.
  8. 1 point
    I've decided I won't take the extended maintenance service plan…. not because it' s not good but because it's $4,000. ! Claude.
  9. 1 point
    Well then with the rollout time I am getting 0-60 in 4.88s then. One more Dragy question, is the magnet good enough to hold on the outside of a vehicle? Wondering if say I wanted to see what another vehicle could do if I can safely slap in on the hood edge.
  10. 1 point
    Hi there. Here is a thread where this was discussed and I was able to fix it. Now, with that said, a year later to the exact date, it happened again. Hot on the driver's side, cool on the passenger's side. I'm glad I didn't have to search too deep to find what I did before, as I'd forgotten. I hope this trick works again like it did last July.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Watch the first 3:30 of this video. Cheers!
  13. 1 point
    Just for comparison purposes. I have a '19 Titanium 2.0. I only have about 1100 miles on it right now. I run 93 octane fuel, and I'm 75 years old and drive accordingly. I check my mileage the old fashioned way without any computer. So far I've filled up 4 times. First time 18.8mpg, second 19.2mpg, third 20.9, and fourth 23.3 (a little more highway). Now that I have 1000 miles on it, I am changing over to Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and installing a K & N air filter. I'll continue to keep track, and see where I end up.
  14. 1 point
    Finally turned 1000 miles today, so I changed over to Mobil 1 full synthetic oil, and installed a K & N air filter.
  15. 1 point
    Swapped out the OEM shift knob for one from a Ford Focus to allow manual shifting from the lever in addition to paddles. Here's a link:
  16. 1 point
    Open the drawer, insert your hand palm up. Curl your fingers a little so the tips are against the top of the assembly. Pull. You'll hear four clicks as the keepers release. Done! It's a little scary the first time thinking you might break something but it does pop right out with with a little tug. Cheers!
  17. 1 point
    See the attached Ford General Service Bulletin to see how your concern should be classified by Ford. G0000179 Window Glass.pdf
  18. 1 point
    Hey Modders, If you've done any aftermarket electrical work on your Edge you've probably noticed Ford uses some really tiny wire these days. A lot of it is 26 gauge which is impossible to get a T-tap on and nearly impossible to splice. So, the easy way to make connections is to borrow an idea from the Mirror Tap folks. You've probably seen their tiny pins that slip into the back of the mirror connector, the other end has an accessory appropriate plug. Those puppies are pricey so, I thought to myself...."self, you can probably make your own". That's exactly what I did for an upcoming project. Here's how to make your own back probe to power an accessory or just use with a test light or multimeter. What You'll Need 1. package of pins or any small needle from the household sewing kit 2. a length of metal tubing with an appropriate inner diameter for the size wire you use. Use steel or brass, it won't matter but you'll want the wire to fit inside fairly tight. 3. shrink tubing 4. wire 5. solder & flux 6. Torch to heat tubing and draw solder into the tube How To: Strip one end of your wire (length depends on your project) and dip it in flux then slip bare wire into metal tube Cut your pin to whatever length you'll need as a probe (generally about 1/2") plus the length of your tube then press it, pointy end first, into the tube with the wire. Place the tube/wire/pin combo in a vice or hold with pliers. Apply heat from the torch to the tube then, when hot, add solder. The molten solder 'should' be drawn down into the tube (you did use flux right?). When cool, slip a length of shrink tubing over the metal tube and some of the insulated wire and add heat to shrink the tubing. Done! What you do with the other end of the wire is up to your need and imagination. Attach it to an alligator clip which can be attached to your test light or multi tester or to whatever accessory you're adding. Cheers!
  19. 1 point
    Congrats and welcome to the forum.
  20. 1 point
    I got my 2019 performance blue st in May. I love it so far. But I can’t download the new FordPass and my backup camera is pointing onto my licence plate. 2 minor but annoying issues.
  21. 1 point
    Living here in the "Valley of the Sun" I feel your pain in the optic nerve. Polarized sunglasses go a long way toward reducing glare but can also make phones and other displays harder to read. A dash cover (fancy carpet) 'might' help. Or you could try something like 303 Aerospace Protectant. You spray it on like Armorall and many of the other UV protectors BUT it isn't shiny like so many of those others. Applied per the directions, 303 Aerospace puts down a matte finish that's a lot less reflective than the shiny stuff. Another upside, you can use it on all of your plastic/rubber parts including door/hatch gaskets and everything under the hood. It's not the least expensive stuff by a long shot but it works really well and it 'should' reduce (but not eliminate) that reflection. Cheers!
  22. 1 point
    Yes I love my Edge. In fact all of my three Edges are still in the family. My first one (2011 MKX) is now belongs to my girlfriend, next I'm selling my second one (2016 Titanium) to my father-in-law in at the end of the month and I my third one (2019 Titanium Elite) is on order which I should get pretty soon. Claude.
  23. 1 point
    It is not about the wired vs. not wired. The MX is better, considered the best for such things. Even the wired readers don't necessarily read all protocols. They would require a switch to allow it to read MS-CAN. Also the OBDLink SX (the wired version) from them can't read MS-CAN.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I would like to have enigma-2 explain how the hitch included with the trailer tow package is different from an after market type II hitch.
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