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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Wife traded her 2011 Sport in today for our new 2019 ST. I was pleasantly surprised at the improvements across the board. Performance blue, 401a with cold weather package. For those like me who didn't like the factory rims based on the pics, see them in person. For us at least, they looked totally different in person and on the car vs the pics. Truly an upgrade in every aspect.
  2. 2 points
    I had a 2013 CPO Porsche Panamera S which was about to go out of CPO warranty coverage, wanted a sporty SUV so looked around here in Ocala Florida for a good deal. Found my preferred color in white at a local dealer priced at $34k and change and went in to make a deal. They offered me $40k for the Porsche, which wasn't a bad deal considering retail price is around $45k and it is not an easy car to sell in this neck of the woods. I saved almost $3k in sales taxes by doing the trade in, plus the hassle of selling the Porsche by myself. My edge sport has the navigation package and the safe and smart package, plus I got them to throw in the cargo package worth about $300. Impressions so far: Engine: Great performance, eco boost has lots of power at all rpms, surprised how fast this truck is. Suspension: Best ride I have seen in an SUV, stays flat in the corners, only thing comparable I have driven is Porsche Macan which is smaller and more expensive. Comfort: Love the seats, way more comfortable than my Panamera. Air conditioning blows colder than my Panamera, which had a V8. Cabin has lots of space, room for golf clubs etc Tech: Navigation works fine, Sony stereo more than adequate. Standard headlights were weak so I replaced highs and lows with some Phillips Crystalvison Ultra halogen bulbs which are whiter and brighter than standard ones for $40, Looks: I love the stance and look of this truck, actually prefer it to the 19 Edge ST Mileage: Not that great, about the same as my Panamera, but I don't do that many miles. I feed it Shell Premium. Complaints: I like the no fuel cap design, but unless I am doing something wrong, the fuel door does not lock. Conclusion: Love this truck, glad I bought it, learned a lot from reading many threads here before purchase.
  3. 2 points
    I was running Livernois v3 93 tune and 160 thermostat. 20" light weight wheels and 245 all around summer tires. KN drop in filter, HR springs and rear motor mount to reduce wheel hop. Also, I race close to sea level and the Temps were mid 40s. Lots of power, hard to get traction.
  4. 2 points
    The “oil wars” are always good reading. Basically the less quality oil you use (that’s still SE or whatever rated) like pure dyno oil, the lower your change interval should be, down as low (often) as every 3K. Caveats are of course winter starting, WOT, idling and stop/go (severe usage). Personally I use the synthetic blend Motocraft that goes on their service specials. I won’t go past 5K with a blend (or 7,500 with pure synthetic) because “why”? At the price of a replacement long block, I don’t pinch fluid change pennies. I don’t really care if I am contributing to climate depletion/change or whatever, I do care that my engine starts, runs and stays well lubricated. I understand about Blackstone Labs and oil analysis, even in my military service career the army was using oil analysis (in the 90’s) and it saved them a gazillion gallons of fluids and labor I’m sure. I just don’t care about stretching out the intervals, period. Course I’m the guy who wants to buy a used car from “me” as far as service goes, and I never get to... sigh
  5. 2 points
    After my front bumper was stripped down and repainted, I've not had any other issues. I work at a coal fired power plant and the acid rain has badly marked the horizontal surfaces, but surprisingly it hasn't had any impact on the front bumper, and my black Harley Nightrain paint is also unaffected.
  6. 2 points
    Stories like this and my own experiences are why I have done all my own maintenance and repairs for the last 20 years. It's not to save money or because I enjoy it - its because I need to know it was done right.
  7. 2 points
    Seems it's either a bad install or lesser quality replacement. This is the logo on my 2016 Edge.
  8. 2 points
    Sadly sometimes it IS the mechanic and not the shop. How the shop responds when they DO know is a testimonial to their character or lack thereof. Glad you caught the perpetrator in the act tho, Jason, and that you stood up for yourself. Most of us are now too meek and taught to be too per-lite for confrontation.
  9. 2 points
    If that mechanic is still employed there next week, it suggests that the dealership condones that type of deceit and theft. Agree with the others, contact Ford Corp.
  10. 1 point
    Reposting per Moderator for any that get a dash error message to shift to park when the shifter is in the park position: I registered to this site specifically to post on this semi-common issue to help any like myself who research how to fix issues themselves. I can attest this issue can easily be fixed with just replacing a $5 microswitch and less than 1 hour of easy time. Thanks to the previous poster that posted the microswitch info, but I saw a few posts with the wrong parts being shown to fix this issue. You need a SPDT three lead switch with the posts on the left side. The CORRECT Omron switch part number is D2HW - BL201M - this version has three leads already in place for easy spicing. I got mine from Mouser Electronics for $5.02. If you want the version with the solder posts, the part number is D2HW - BL201H but you will probably need to remove a lot more stuff to get this resoldered. I went ahead and bought a few spares as well as I expect this to fail again at some point... Don't worry about getting one with a lever, as you will pull the lever off the old switch and put it on the new one. The great part is you won't have to remove the shifter if you get the switch with the leads already attached. Start by setting the parking brake, then start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate), then turn the car back off. Remove the center console with the cup holders. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up. Then, remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit. Now, separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch, then re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring. After your sure everything is fine, put the console back together in reverse order you took it out. Then smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work! I hope I helped someone from either paying the crazy dealership price or buy a completely new shifter and spend much more time and effort taking things apart to do this.
  11. 1 point
    I'd disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes & then see if it fixes it.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Wow thats sad. Employees are just people, and people screw up, I know however for some reason I have tended to trust a Ford service employee more than say a Firestone or Goodyear shop. Of course there’s no reason to but I did. The thing I don’t understand this is the “why”. He’s getting paid anyway, so why not do it? Is he trying to get 3 paying jobs done at once? Is the service manager getting some kind of kickback on jobs? It’s all so unfortunate. Moral of the story - ask to watch. Second story - when you ask for the old parts (for proof), remember that an unscrupulous person can bring out the dirty (air filter) and show you, when it’s not even yours... sad
  14. 1 point
    If you're feeling kind, you could let the dealership manager know that you expect appropriate action on their part, such as dismissal of the mechanic, or you'll be taking it as high as you can go with Ford Corp. This mechanic/dealership are likely skipping safety related service items.
  15. 1 point
    Markings decoder http://www.carwindshields.info/windshieldmarkings DOT 376 AP TECHNOGLASS CORP BELLEFONTAINE, OH, USA
  16. 1 point
    Get in touch with Ford direct and find out who the Zone Manager is for the area where you live. Make a formal complaint with the Zone Manager office. I've said this before but dealerships DO NOT like getting customer complaints that come through the local Zone Manager. Ford corporate does not take this type of thing lightly.
  17. 1 point
    Doesn't match up to any known manufacturer by DOT code. This is what I am referencing, may be a better reference out there: http://www.carwindshields.info/dot_db I did find the glass by P/N DW02194, still no go on mfr https://jmcautoglass.com/replacements/ford/edg/ws-edg/15-16-ws-edg/2015-2016-ford-edge-windshield-replacement-pricing-aci/
  18. 1 point
    hmmm .. I figured if I let this post bake a few days, someone would come up with a bright idea (HA! See what I did there) So. let me ask this of someone who has Oasis access .. the two turn relays in the engine bay fuse panel, where does their N/O contacts go to? (FETs in the BCM?)
  19. 1 point
    nope 80w90 is for the rdu, 75w140 for the ptu officially. has not changed since inception. https://www.mactgarage.com/gen-2-ford-edge-capacities-and-spec https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KsuV6pzRRNZtRt2bQmdqmXeiJ79yp5oU
  20. 1 point
    I'd have to check into that - it's not something the software allows natively.
  21. 1 point
    Not sure how to answer that however, being a road racer and not a dragger I can only relate to high speed braking and I noted no fade and strong consistant braking.
  22. 1 point
    Hate is way, way too strong a term, but...even though I love the huge sunroof on our '16 Titanium...it's three or four inches too far forward. If I don't wear a hat, and the sun is high in the sky, it blasts me right in the eyes...and either have to put a hat on...or close the roof...
  23. 1 point
    Welp she was turned in today. I really enjoyed her while I had her and it'll make a nice used car for the next owner. She was very well taken care of. I took out my WeatherTech mats, vacuumed, and threw in the original mats. Looks like the day it rolled off the line. I'll probably be posting the mats for sale in the classified section and that'll be all for me here. To all that have helped with questions....thanks. Great community here. You may see me in the future when it is time for my next ride. Still own my Mustang so will always be a Ford guy. Good Luck.
  24. 1 point
    I've never been dinged on a lease turn in. Usually I'm dealing with the dealer on a new car so from their angle it isn't a good idea to start nickle and diming me on dumb stuff. And if a 3rd party wanted to get super anal, I'd push back until a fair deal was reached.
  25. 1 point
    I actually did this in 2011. Let me explain. I had a 2008 Edge AWD Ltd. with 38,000 miles. I don't remember how much I put down at the time (been a long time). The 3 year lease was set to expire and I wanted the newer style 2011 Edge. My end lease purchase price was $18,000 so I bought it. The dealer then offered me $26K as a trade in for it. I took the trade in deal and ordered my 2011 Ltd. AWD. Otherwise I never would have done it.