cal3thousand

I have some left over CREEs from flashlight building that would make POWERFUL DRLs. I will try to find some new optics for them and make up a set. I'm thinking 2-3 Cree's on each side would have enough juice. Hard part will be figuring out where to mount them discretely and which optics to get the desired spread *checking DealExtreme right now* BTW, they sell the DRL light bars on PartsCheap.com

Nice mod! this gives me some ideas... :shades:

I love the meshy look (got BBS on my Volvo) They match REALLY well with your overall car styling. KUDOS!!! :yup:

I'm guessing that some day, a protocol might be available to "hack" such things. Vag-com is definitely nice.

That works. If you hold it longer than 3 blinks it will blink as long as you hold it. If you release it before that, it will blink the 3 times. Its annoying to hold it there while changing lanes though. I just move it to the second spot, finish the lane change and tap it to turn it off (any direction).

Lookin tough! Did they mandrel bend the pipe? or crush?

Never heard of anything like that. Seems like most AWD problems are due to the PTU seals and those show up after a little bit of driving. Maybe there's a reason that AWD production for the 2011 MY has ended. In any case, I hope they fix it up like new (in this case better than new). One good thing is that they are actually doing something about it and not blowing smoke up your ass.

Sweet, Thanks! Doesn't look too difficult either. Going to do this after I get my ding fixed.

I know!!!! uggghhhh. I'm going to pony up the cash even though its a lease because I can't stand it.

Welcome to the board. I will warn you that it is a bit lacking in activity currently. But DIY types as yourself might help build a following. This is my first Ford as well. I'll be honest, and say that I was an Anti Ford guy previously due to my ownership of a Pre-Ford Volvo. But I'm also very open minded (especially as of late) and have been quite impressed with what Alan Mulally has been able to accomplish. This new Edge, to me, symbolizes Ford's new direction and commitment to bring us great products. BTW, let's see pics of the SS and the Edge!

Actually, the size makes for a weight spending (opposite of savings? :lol). Or should I say weight increase, in this case. Apples to Apples, if you have a cast rim this size, it would no doubt be heavier due to the extra material needed for the same strength. The location of the weight in a Forged rim CAN BE more beneficial as well, as the weight can be kept towards the center of rotation, which reduces rotational inertia. Who really knows if Ford took advantage of that during wheel design. The serviceability and the durability of the forged rims is really the most attractive part IMHO. But its true that unsprung weight on the Sport's rims is much higher than other trims and the specialized suspension bits are a testament to that. That's the main reason the Limited has a better 0-60 than the Sport although losing on power and gear ratio.

I agree, we need some good write-ups and DIY stickies on here. Unfortunately, I'm beginning to realize that most Edge owners don't service their own vehicles. (not that they don't exist) It makes sense as these things a fairly new compared to some other models. And being a model specific site doesn't help either. I hit the "view new content" and "active content" buttons to keep the discussions live.

Looking forward to the pics of your improvements. Thread subscribed.

I end up doing this on slow lane changes or congested changes. I think the 3 blink thing is only good enough when the lane is already cleared and you are doing it for formalities.

They need to do it in order to stay in business. Everyone is looking to save a buck nowadays, so their scale does not add up enough. I'm a DIY guy. The dealership gave me a "free oil change coupon" and I might not even take them up on that. When I reach 60,000 miles (if I buyout my lease), I will flush the transmission be myself. (Will make sure to have the correct hose pulled by checking the ATF flow direction at the radiator first using documentation) There's no special machine required. What they use is simply a fluid exchanger designed to keep the fluid contained and constructed for commercial use standards. For my purposes, a funnel, a bucket, and a helping hand is all I need. Now that I think about it, I don't need an extra set of hands either with the remote starter.

I'm not sure if anyone makes an aftermarket system. But the stock system is a Cold Air type. It maybe all conjecture here, but I think that improvements to the system will be in the area of flow increases instead of charge air temp reductions. Personally, I'm going to run a good cotton oiled air filter (K&N most likely) and possibly changing the accordion piping to a polished AL pipe, but that's about it on the intake. EDIT: took too long to post and just saw yours above this reply

I agree that one COULD go 10k+ miles given optimal conditions including mild weather, and a low dust, traffic-free environment. You had better be changing your air filter that often too, if that's the case. Today's oils and, more importantly, engine tolerances allow longer change intervals. But recommended is just that. A blanket recommendation that will cover a vast majority of users and conditions. YMMV. If you want piece of mind but don't want to be 'wasteful', do it every 5000 miles. If you want to stretch it out and think you can, make sure its a quality oil and filter and make sure you inspect it often. Just because your 'change interval' has not come around, does not mean that the oil will not have degraded at all in the last 1000 miles (oil can degrade quickly if abused).

Fingernail... good idea, never thought of that.

Cool... looks good. Did you stick with the stock dampers? Professionally installed? or DIY?

I'll pay you $4 if you take good pics and do a write-up

Apparently those guys don't know 6 Cylinders from 8 because the 3.7 and 3.5 use the same filter.... heck, even the Mustang uses it (both 3.7 and 5.0). (PS I know some V8's use this filter too, but its made generally for V6 applications.) I'm going to run a filter with a higher bypass setting as I live in So Cal and the cold starts are few and far between. I will stomp on the gas at a light more often than I will have cold starts, so the increased filtration pressure before bypass will make sure I'm still filtering oil at WOT. I don't like the idea of throwing unfiltered oil at the engine at WOT. Unfiltered oil during the 10 cold (real cold) starts a year, I will put up with. I think the Ford engineers made the bypass rating at 8 psi to make sure to cover the vast people in cold climates, which doesn't pertain as well to my desert climate and driving style.

125 for inserts is a pretty good price... $75 to paint them is about right... choice choices. I WAS going to put white CF Di Noc Vinyl on there... but now I'm torn.

Thanks for the insight. (to all the pro detailers) I will buy any 3M product if they make a version and won't touch the competition. Hands down, the best adhesives. Good to know that they own Meguiar's too!

I will concur. DO NOT USE A MAGIC SPONGE!!! If you understand that a magic sponge works on abrasion to remove surface dirt, you will see that it is a poor choice for leather. Unless you feel like prematurely wearing out your leather, I would advise to stay away. A magic sponge is nothing more that a sanding block with an amazingly high grit count that is soft to the touch. Having said that, I always start with a terry cloth towel and some distilled water and move up from there. Steam as Richy suggested or even baby wipes, but Magic Sponge Nevar!

Thanks for the advice Richy! btw, I'm going to check out that cQuartz stuff you mentioned elsewhere. I'd like to add that an ounce of prevention is definitely worth a pound of cure. One of the first things that I always do after purchasing a car with leather interior is to tint the windows. I will tint the front of the Edge's to match the rears this next weekend. (I have an estimate for $45 for the pair.) I've seen way too many seat tops that are absolutely thrashed by the sun while the back surfaces are still perfect. Another thing I also have is a good fitted windshield shade. This will protect your dash from drying out and eventually cracking. It will also keep the interior temps much lower when sitting in the sun. Of course, if you need privacy in a parking lot, it works wonders and makes your tint work even better by not letting light in :shades: