Cerberus

Right, and paying for instalation probably makes it less of a value, if it is something you can do yourself.. which I'd say most people can.

No, it smelled like old used oil. And I'm not being a wiseass, that is a definite smell. Hydrocarbon combustion, pressure leakage past the rings (which is unavoidable to some degree, especially in boosted applications) create a distinct smell.

92k miles Oil and filter Summer /winter wheel swap Rear pads and rotors (Raybestos Element 3) Drained the catch can again, had about a tablespoon of very dark, thin, oily crap.

So I just did the spring oil change, and there was still a significant film of oil on the rear side of the pan near the PTU, but I realized I did not wash it down with brake clean after tightening the pan last time.. so I washed it down this time. 6Quarts came out and I don't recall adding any in the last interval, so if it is leaking it was not significant volume.

That is just wrong...

I have had an oil pan leak issue addressed by the stealership that I bought mine from, only to have the leak continue or recur depending on your perspective.. but then i question the skills (and more precisely, the integrity) of all stealerships.. but not all techs. There are some talented techs out there, and some shit heels too. Roll the dice or fix it yourself. last time I changed the oil, I put a socket on the pan bolts and gave them a little additional torque. when i change my oil this weekend, i'll see if it helped

finally got on IG.. just to track down performance specialists like Jim and DTP fab .. summer is coming, time to make it faster

so with the summer driving season fast approaching, with the state my tires are in, I'm trying to decide whether to upgrade the rubber on my summer wheels now or run what's on the until they're gone.. My questions are, can we get an update on tire wear, any bad rubs, and overall impression of the bigger Conti Extreme Contacts?

Filler cap has no milky crap on it. Fairly humid and not too stupid cold here, but it almost always gets up to temp once started

Actually, the emulsion is the little bit you see on the bottom of the catch can, mostly hidden by the light oily fluid on top of it. I wanted to touch a flame to the fluid on top, but the potential of any fire flare up at my job two minutes before punch out seemed ill advised... lol

Negative, coolant level is good, and consistent. It's perfectly normal. The golden light brown stuff is fuel & oil vapor (it gets darker as oil change is closer to due), highly volatile stuff that basically vaporized out of the hot crankcase and was caught by the catch can as it designed to do. The minimal milky sludge is just condensate from water produced by combustion, which is also perfectly normal. It's small comfort, but still good to know there is something catching that garbage instead of it going straight into my intake and coking the intake valves.

drained my catch can. nasty light oily garbage with some milky sludge in the bottom

No But if fluid has been added while the pads were worn, you may end up with overfill spillage at the reservoir. And, just for the sake of saying it (although no one does it) you might consider cracking the bleeder on the caliper and pushing the fluid out instead of back up stream. Any thermal aging that has happened is better removed from the system than forced back into service. Think of it as a small scale flush of the brake Fluid.

Got you As a mechanic, usually a stumble is when you roll into the throttle (either under load or not) and the engine doesn't rev up as expected, but rather stumbles like biden on the stairs to air force one, but I can see how your use makes sense too

Not sure what you mean by stumbling at idle, but when mine was bad, it had a cyclic low idle after fill ups. And the purge valve did fix it