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MetalAnon

Edge Member
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About MetalAnon

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  1. Not to nitpick an "ASE master tech", but I think you mean valve train? I'm pretty sure the "drivetrain" needs not be removed to do the 3.5L water pump. Just sayin'. 😜
  2. MetalAnon

    Hello from MN

    Welcome! Good to see another Minnesota Edge pilot joinin' the fray.
  3. MetalAnon

    Remote Start

    Whoops, my bad for confusing this. 😬 Thanks for pointing out my mistake @omar302, will help for future reference indeed.
  4. MetalAnon

    Remote Start

    Found this on the Forscan forum, apparently there's even a TSB that addresses the greyed out climate control menu options within remote start menu... https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11666 Turns out @WWWPerfA_ZN0W (not MACT lol) shared this TSB previously here...
  5. Thanks man... you are a wealth of knowledge! That setup then seems kinda wasteful from an engineering standpoint. Guess I'll have to do some digging to find out more about the housing's durability. OR... perhaps, since the H15 is dual filament, we could simply run a jumper and/or relay from the high beam circuit to that unused 55w filament... things that make ya go hmmmm....?
  6. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    OOPS... now that i look closer I se your deflectors also go down to the sill . my bad
  7. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    NICE! Not too many in that color around me... are those wheels the 21"? Yeah the rear wind noise issue was specifically regarding the WeatherTech deflectors. One reason we wanted WeatherTech is the leading edge of the front deflectors. It follows the front channel all the way to the window sill in front of the mirror. See attached image... kinda tough to see with it all being black but hopefully you can see it better in this pic.
  8. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    You went with the WeatherTechs?
  9. Thanks for the reply @omar302! I guess I hadn't really considered it since we don't have a 2019, but I certainly want to avoid passing along any erroneous info so thanks for pointing that out! I'm guessing that the weak performance of these HIDs is likely due to their age. They clearly fire up very bright, but then quickly tune down once they have started. Not sure if that is indicative of tired bulbs or ballasts or both, I'm learning HIDs as I go. Like I mentioned, I have not dug into the lights yet, it's been ridiculously cold in MN the past couple weeks, but I will soon in order to determine what hardware is indeed installed currently. I appreciate the recommendations, I've read quite a bit about both the Night Breakers and XtremeVisions, but coming from halogen equipped cars, I find $200+ for bulbs less than palatable and likely only a serious last resort option and despite the numerous videos out there showing increases in brightness with the Night Breaker in particular, I find it hard to believe the bulbs by themselves can increase brightness without boosting the power feeding them. But again, I'm learning HIDs as I go. TBH I am puzzled that there seem to be zero direct replacement ballasts over 35 watts for the Ford applications. I would think the market for 55w+ direct replacement ballasts would be a sound one. As for the DRLs (which I mistakenly called H11 in the post), the H15 seems to be a 55w bulb so I would assume the reflector housing for that would be substantial enough to home a 9005 or the like. I think I might see what I can put together for the wiring to repurpose that inboard bulb position to come on with the high beams. I can't imagine it would be too difficult with the proper schematic and perhaps a relay run from the high beam switch for the additional load. I'm curious anyhow.
  10. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    Thanks @niceonept! We opted only for the front windows because in my researching these deflectors, numerous people online had said that the rears were troublesome, not wanting to stay securely in the channels and they created a lot of wind noise even with the windows closed completely. Plus it saved us about $50.
  11. MetalAnon

    MetalAnon's '16 Sport

    Currently stock with WeatherTech front window deflectors.
  12. Installed Weathertech window deflectors (part #80796 front pair only) on the front windows. Chose only the fronts since I read many reports that the rears create a lot of wind noise. Installation was easy enough, made sure the front lip was installed on the OUTSIDE of the window trim (as the instructions emphasize and a brightly colored sticker on the deflector itself). I did wind up with a couple small chips broken out of the rear end of both deflectors, the part that installs in the channel, so its not visible from the outside and does not effect form or function. It seems the thickness of that portion of the deflectors could have been a touch thinner, but I'm happy with the end result.
  13. I could have probably made two posts for these questions, but I figured since they are both headlight related I'd just consolidate them into one. Question 1) What are our options for upgrading factory HIDs? So, we've had our 2016 Sport for bout 7 months and absolutely LOVE it. We are optioned with 401A and have the factory HID projector headlights which seem dangerously dim. Some nights, we can't even tell if the lights are actually on (besides the indicator light on the dashboard). Pariticularly on rainy nights when the roads are wet, both of us on several occasions have had to cycle the headlight switch to be sure the lights on indeed lit. It's creepy to say the least. Our Edge has 125k on the ticker so I'm inclined to think that the original bulbs, at minimum were previously replaced at least once. I have not physically checked myself, but based on the performance, I'm assuming the ballasts are the stock 35 watt units. So I intended to resolve the issue with new D3S bulbs and upgrading the ballasts to 55 watt or better. Seems simple enough, until I actually started looking for 55 watt ballasts, I cannot for the life of me find a single, DIRECT replacement, higher than stock (35 watt) ballasts any where. I spoke with a tech at TheRetroFitSource.com and he told me that I would need to buy an entire conversion kit made for the halogen conversions in order to boost the ballast wattage, but I find this hard to believe. Additionally, the factory HIDs mount the ballast on the underside of the housing and the ballast is used to seal the access point for the ballast connections, which are both INSIDE the housing. (See attached images) The aftermarket conversions all seem to have there connections made OUTSIDE the housing and they seem to be mounted away from the housings and not mounted on them which begs the question, how exactly are the ballast connections made without removing the original ballast and thus exposing inside the housing to the elements? Thus my posting here... Any input on this issue is requested! Question 2) Has anyone yet sought to repurpose the apparently useless DRLs (the inboard headlamp location on 401A optioned models (factory HID)) to function as secondary high beams? If not, what associated upgrades (improved wiring, maybe add a relay) would be advisable or required to support a proper high beam bulb in place of the DRL H11? In my quest to solve the above problem, it came to my attention that the "signature lights" in the front bumper were not the DRLs as I had assumed. Because I disable to DRLs (we have the signature lights for that) the inboard headlight bulbs are just sitting there wasting space. This made me wonder if I could make better use of that bulb by repurposing that particular circuit to be powered on with the high beams to supplement the HID high beams. Any thoughts on this potential mod would be greatly appreciated.
  14. 4 years later but here's some proof... Bulbfacts.com a non-biased third party comparison of current LEDs and how they stack up... cutoffs, hotspots, color temps, even the complete beam patterns. Hope this sheds some light (pun intended 🤣) on this issue.
  15. Also, in addition or perhaps in lieu of the above, if you'd rather not visit a dealership, @hyperc32, or anyone else for the matter, check my previous post... you should be able to get a hold of your original window sticker to determine what options your Edge was equipped with from the factory. HTH!
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