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Everything posted by Tmaf901

  1. Hello, I drive mostly in the city, but occasionally outside of the city and my average full tank “miles until E” reading fluctuates very much depending on the week. Granted I know these readings can be pretty inaccurate from time to time, it fluctuates between 290 and 410 miles until E at a full tank. Im curious if other people have this similar problem or if maybe I have something else going on. I have not done my own calculations yet to determine realistic numbers, but I decided to make a post to see if other people have this same issue. My average MPG according to the car is 19 and if you calculate off that, it should have 300 miles until E. What is everybody else's numbers and driving habits?
  2. Hello, I kindly ask for anybody's opinion on this specific matter. It's getting quite irritating to have such an intermediate issue with no real direction to go in. I've owned my 2017 Ford Edge Sport for little over a year now. When I first got the car when accelerating (entering highway/passing other cars mostly) my car jolts as if the transmission shifts down and down and down and I get a whole lot of different error messages on my dash and I think it's different messages each time. Transmission Failure, Coolant Failure, AWD Failure, Blindspot Monitoring Failure, Traction Control Failure, etc etc etc. The time of this posting it happened there was only transmission/wrench icon and I decided to try to take a video of the dash but noticed there wasn't many warnings like before however it was the same exact situation I have been in. I noticed this time an airbag light was on. I kept it in drive for a little bit this time, and I was going to see if I could drive it a bit forward after having stopped on the highway, but the engine was very rough sounding and shaking pretty bad. Once I put the vehicle in park the shaking reduced but the RPM was bouncing pretty rapidly between 750-1000. I shut the car off and restarted (and.. everything returns to normal operating conditions). NO DATA IS SAVED ONCE THE VEHICLE IS RESTARTED. NO CODES. NOTHING. I'm just trying to get anybody's opinion to help me in a direction I should take this. This is very clearly going to cause an accident. My theroy is the PCM. Maybe the spark/coil pack. Has ANYBODY experienced this before?? Thank you.
  3. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    Just wanted to update everybody on this issue. After taking it to the last dealer I went too, they guaranteed me that placing a new battery and an official OEM ground connection instead of the makeshift ground connection that was originally there would fix my entire problem. I was extremely skeptical but nonetheless I paid the outrageous price to have that done. Its been 6-8 months I want to say now and absolutely no more problems as of now. Seems like it all went away, moral of the story is if you have electrical based issues that make absolutely no sense - check the ground first *facepalm*.
  4. can I ask if replacing the throttle body fixed this problem?? You described just what I am experiencing on my 2017 ford edge 2.7l 6 cyl… A harsh clunk as if the transmission failed to enter a gear or something. It seems to happen whenever I press the accelerator more than I was previously. For example going up large hills here in NY will require a little more throttle where it will down shift and then I SOMETIMES get a clunk and all these issues. I cleared all previous data (and posted previous data on this forum somewhere) and now its happened 3 times but without throwing any codes or anything anymore… These intermittent undiagnosable issues are so annoying. Everything I read continues to point me back to the throttle body or ECM issue, but why would a throttle body issue make my vehicle clunk when this happens idk..
  5. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    Dealership stated there was no codes, but I received my OBDLink and used forscan to find these codes. Some of them have dates back to 2018 before I owned the vehicle. Parking Aid Module U0100:00-28 Lost Communication with ECM U0101:00-28 Lost Communication with TCM Rear Gate/Trunk Module B1306:12-08 Liftgate Ajar Switch B144F:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk... B145D:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk... B145D:12-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk... U0101:87-08 Lost communication with TCM U0294:87-08 Lost communication with Po... Occupant Classification System Module U0401:00-28 Invalid Data received from ECM Cruise Control Module U0401:86-28 Invalid data received from ECM Antilock Braking System U0428:81-60 Invalid Data received from... U0104:00-20 Lost communication with Cr... U3003:16-68 Battery Voltage B1111:53-20 Electric Park Brake Enable P193B:86-20 Throttle/Pedal Signal U0100:00-20 Lost communication with ECM Drivers Door Module B1165:15-08 Left Front Puddle Lamp Output Restraint Control Module B00A0:68-28 Occupant Classification System... Power Steering Control Module U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM U0401:00-08 Invalid Data Recieved from ECM Instrument Panel Control Module U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM U0104:00-08 Lost Communication with Cr... U3003:16-08 Battery Voltage I've done a lot of research on individual codes. Obviously, there are lots of loss of communication with the ECM. Going to have dealership check computer connections, I guess. If you have any thoughts, feel free to let me know. Some of these codes have a date and freeze-frame data that is dated for 2018 before I owned the car.
  6. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    Off topic: Its ironic you said that, because I had a dream two nights ago I drove my car into a river on accident lmaoo. Regardless, I feel like there would be more problems. It seems to me like a pcm or tcm problem, or wiring between them idk. Overall, I love the vehicle.
  7. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    Initially I thought throttle body malfunction, or AWD malfunction. Then with all the different errors that appear on the dash I started thinking PCM failure because it was different each time. The past two times its only been the one wrench icon, and airbag light. Im taking it to ford this morning, they will try to read any data they can on the computer but I am sure they wont be able to pull up anything as they said this last time. Edit: guy that told me to “bring it in as soon as this issue happens so they can at least read codes” 5 days ago says they are too busy today to do that for my car. I scheduled foe the 29th. Im sure any data - if there is - will be long gone by then. 😔 Edit: I just purchased the OBDLink MX+ to use with forscan lite on my phone will be here tomorrow. As of now all I have is a cheap ELM 327 thing off ebay, so some features may not be available but I plugged it in to read codes and under “parking aid module” I have codes U0100 and U0101. If that helps anybody.
  8. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    Im not sure if I am allowed to post video links… if not just remove the link or inform me how I can upload a video appropriately to this forum. https://streamable.com/2kk4fl The past two times this has happened was driving only like 40 mph, and this video I was accelerating pretty aggressively to pass a car that pulled out in front of me (on a 4 lane road, 2 in each direction). All that shows up is the wrench icon, no other indicators besides the airbag light. If you notice though, the RPM gauge is fluttering a lot - in park. In drive the engine is even more shaky. It also seemed as if my electric steering assist was a bit harder to turn, I am sure that happened each time I just didn't notice until now as the spot to pull off in required me to turn the wheel as I was going really slowly. I also had to try to accelerate to get across the one lane and to the side of the road, and it didn't seem like my car was really accelerating any. Edit: battery has been secured the best they could BEFORE this happened this time.
  9. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    So, I was at my friends the other day and her mechanic friend said this exact same thing. We went out to check and my battery is not the official battery. Its another battery, much smaller and isn't even tied down. It has a lot of wiggle room to move around. In addition, the ground wire isn't the official ground wire, its an attachment piece so that it can connect to that battery. Could a battery coming disconnected for a split second cause all these issues to happen? Its just strange because you would think with the bumpy roads I endure it would happen much more frequently, but it only happens upon acceleration into a highway or traffic it seems.
  10. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    It wasn't just one dealership I went too. I went to one 2 hrs away, and my closest local one. I explained the situation as I have here and told them to look into the computer for any causes. They always come back with not being able to find anything.
  11. Tmaf901

    Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

    I use a simple OBD WIFI tool with OBD Fusion, but I was told by the ford dealer I may not be able to pull up everything stored with that. I took it to the ford dealer each time this has happened, except the last time. They are not able to pull up any data on this situation.
  12. Tmaf901

    Engine Dies while Driving

    Ask her what exactly happens. Hard shifting by the transmission as shes slowing down. I assume loss of acceleration. All dash lights on? Ive been having a problem with the symptoms above and I truthfully think its to do with the computer module that takes all the sensor data in. I think it errors out and causes this. No stored codes - read by a ford dealer each time. No trace back to and issues. Check engine was on, but it doesn't store the code. Maybe it cant, because the whole ECM is confused and so it cant store any code 🤷‍♂️. Its a major intermediate saftey issue imo.
  13. Hello, First and foremost, I am unsure if I am posting in the correct topic. I just purchased a 2017 Ford Edge Sport about 2 months ago with 36,500 miles on it. It now has 38,000 now. I have noticed that SOMETIMES, when going at slow speeds 15-30 MPH, the transmission will do a rough upshift where you can feel and hear it click into the next gear. It only happens occasionally but that is the only problem I noticed until today. Today, as I was pulling out of a parking lot onto a 2 lane 45 mile per hour zone. I didn't gun it or anything, I got up to 30 miles an hr, and switched lanes into one with oncoming traffic so I needed to hit the gas a little harder to merge in time. I never really went above 4000 RPM, but upon doing that and once I got into that lane it was as if I wasn't pressing the gas anymore. I didn't really hear anything loud, it just felt as if you were jolted forward because your car stopped accelerating. I got over to the right hand shoulder and noticed I had warning on my dash. I believe more than one. I am aware one of them was “service advance trac” however I shut my car off right after getting it into park (I should have looked at the lights more closely). When turning it back on, there was no lights, and everything has worked fine since…. Its only been about 12 hrs since, and I have driven it about 10 miles, but I wanted to get any insight you guys have. I plugged in my own OBD scanner and couldn't see any codes. Will be taking it to the dealer to see if theres any advanced codes that they can see that I cannot see with my scanner. My thoughts are: * Misfire, causing engine limp mode which may caused advance trac to trigger an error because of the quick deceleration. * AWD malfunction (my car stays in AWD until I am at cruising speeds) * Transmission malfunction…
  14. Unfortunately by posting here I have manifested the problem back into existence. I had a long drive today (80 miles or so), its damp since it rained last night, humid as well as condensation built on my windshield while driving (the climate wasn't on at the time). About 5-10 miles into my drive this issue happened again for the third time since owning my car. I went to pass a vehicle as I was already in a time crunch and as I was switching over the lane to pass the acceleration stopped. All the warnings came on like last time. A warning I noticed this time was about engine coolant temp. In the past I only seen advance trac, BLIS system and many other warnings but I never toggled through them. I always thought this problem was transmission or AWD malfunction until now. Engine coolant temp wouldn't really have anything to do with transmission/awd system would it? At this point I feel its the main computer board causing this issue. Like it errors out, and doesn't know what to do. Everything tries to go back to their neutral position, hence why the transmission shifts so hard as I am slowing down. It tries its best to get back to a neutral or gear 1 on its own. Thats why I loose acceleration, as the throttle body goes back to whatever position it would be in if it wasn't being used. I didnt catch a video, the last two occurrences the one happened on a highway in a bad spot where I couldn't pull over, and today I was already late to my appointment. Let me know your thoughts :). Edit: would it make sense that the ECM (or whatever the main computer of the car is) is where your trouble codes are stored, and since my whole dash lights up which includes a check engine light but after restarting theres no explanation, nothing logged. Maybe that means the ECM is really failing - because when its in its errored state its not able to store information. Its all sorts of confused.
  15. This is my main post about my issue I have been having, its happened two times since I have owned the vehicle. First occurrence was 1-2 months after owning, the second was 1-2 months after the first incident. Since the dealer couldn't give me a good explanation I decided to switch to premium 93 fuel. Its been probably a good 7-8 months now without this issue. Im not going to say gas was causing this issue of mine - but it seems to be the only thing I can link to having fixed it and wanted to update everybody. Personally with the economy and everything I wouldn't be surprised if gas stations are skimping on 87 gas and it just so happens to be harming most vehicles (this is a conspiracy theory… but who really knows).
  16. Most likely the same issue I had in my last post on this thread. Simple fix you can do yourself if it is the 2.7l ecoboost 6 cyl engine. I posted the aftermarket part I used in this thread. Still going strong, no issues anymore. Idk if the part is in the same location or if its the same problem on the 4 cyl 2.0l.
  17. Ford dealer did my oil change, change air filter, checked spark-plugs. According to them (and he brought it out to me) it is pretty black, he said this was carbon buildup. Suggested changing sparks, but the vehicle only has 42,000 miles on it. $300 to do that.. he also suggested an emissions system cleaning service $200. No codes were found (we already knew there wasn't going to be). He seemed to avoid talking about throttle body replacement, suggestion was to grab throttle body cleaner from auto zone. He also said there is cheaper stuff I can get and do myself from an auto store. The only reason their prices are higher is because their services are warrentied which makes sense I guess. Setting up an appointment to get PTU fluid changed, but going to wait on the RDU. Any thoughts on this anybody?
  18. Soo Ive been googling like crazy and I happened to zone in on the individual light errors that I can remember with our specific model of the car and the issue we’ve been having. I remember during both times that this has happened to me I had a wrench light. For a while I thought that just went with the check engine and didn't really give it a second thought but the wrench indicator shows there is a problem somewhere in the powertrain. Googling there was a 2007 model that I seen had a very similar situation where they were driving and all the sudden their service lights would come on and have harsh shifting, pull over and restart everything is fine. As far as I have gathered, most people suggested a fix by replacing the electric throttle body. There was one other situation on a 2011 and 2013 sport version where the same situation occurred and it was suggested there to replace the electric throttle body as well. Do you remember there being a wrench light (there was definitely plenty of warning lights during these instances..). Does this sound like a suitable possible solution? When my vehicle goes to the garage on Wednesday I am going to have them look into it. Maybe they can see if its functioning correctly.
  19. At least I am not alone, I am sure there are more than just us out there experiencing the same issues. Tomorrow I will call the dealer to get it on record again that I am having this issue, as well as talk to them about PTU, RDU, Coolant, and Trans flush prices. Assuming its never been done before, I think its due. Heck, maybe PTU/RDU flushes would fix the issue for all I know. This problem is really an intermittent, undiagnosable issue because there is so many things that could be causing this and nothing pointing to the root of the problem. All we know is this happens when there is a more rapid acceleration.
  20. This sounds EXACTLY like the situation I have been having the past few months. I purchased a 2017 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L ecoboost about 4-5 months ago originally with like 37,000 miles on it. I have driven it 6000 miles since and have done 1 (soon to be 2) oil chances on it. I did post about it, but I figured it was just a fluke issue that happens occasionally because of electronics malfunction (as most cars now adays have a lot of electronic sensors that could fail) until today. It happened again within a month or two of my last posting... Both situations happened where I was changing lanes from slower lane to faster lane of traffic. The first instance happened in a 45mph zone, so I was traveling maybe 30mph at first and hit the accelerator to gain speed to 45 when the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Initially the transmission made a hard shift, dash lit up, and it made another hard shift when I pulled over and shut it off to turn it back on. Most of the notifications on the dash were to do with advancetrac, parking sensors, cruise control, etc. The second instance (today) I was hopping onto a highway where I was initially traveling 50-60mph in the right lane and moved to left lane to get to 75mph+. My car made a hard clunk again, and my dash lit up saying the same things. I was going to take a video, but unfortunately, I did not have a good location to pull off (very short shoulder, partially in the right lane and in a very bad spot for other vehicles to see me when they were coming around the bend...) so I just shut it off and turned it back on and everything is normal, yet again. It's very concerning as this can cause accidents quite easily depending on where it happens. I did not try to accelerate during these situations, I was more focused on shutting my car off to prevent further damage (if damage was occurring). I was curious if it had something to do with the AWD system not engaging properly. I notice that after a while of driving my car will switch from AWD to FWD which it is supposed to do, but whenever I go to hit the gas enough the car will throw into AWD again, this happens when the transmission shifts from whatever gear its currently in to a lower gear to give you more torque. Maybe it tries to engage but fails to and this causes the transmission to have extra drag (or maybe not as much drag as it expects) since the car thinks it should be in AWD, and this throws everything off..
  21. Very well thought of explanation, I have definitely gunned it more than I should've a few times since owning the car. This problem hasn't occurred since. Im afraid this is only one of too many possible causes lol. Weird transmission upshifts (2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th idk) still happens occasionally mostly when I am costing/making a turn into a parking lot, but not as frequently I have noticed. Being colder up here in NY I would assume thats why I haven't noticed as many.
  22. Hello, Last night my climate control was working fine however this morning when I started my car up to head to work my climate blower was stuck on full blast. I tried to turn the car off and on multiple time, turn the climate system off and on, turn it down with the physical button and every time I did that it says “Fan 0” as if its at a 0 speed and I couldn't change it at all. I googled and searched this forum for an answer but I couldn't really find anything. My settings when I shut my car off was not auto or anything like that, and the auto light in the sync system was not lit up, however my auto settings for just the defrost/front/feet settings was set to auto, but that didn't extend to the fan box like it would normally. Long story short I just started hitting all the buttons, and every one of them worked (temp would change, actuator would work, heated/cooled seats worked) everything worked except that fan which was stuck on high. I finally was able to hit the “auto” button which didn't change the fan speed at the time, but did put that auto box around the fan setting which was at least something. I turned auto back off and had full fan control again, sort of like it was stuck in an auto all by itself but I had never clicked or had my car in an auto setting for climate, so somewhere along the line my car had changed that setting on its own. I just wanted to tell my story for anybody else who may be having this issue :).
  23. This is all very useful information that may help somebody in the near future. Yes the climate system has an automatic feature, however I hate that feature and keep it off haha. I have a radar detector hooked up (it turns off when all the electronics in the car automatically turn off, or after 1 hr of no GPS activity) but when on it tells me “Low Voltage” if the voltage level drops low enough. Usually I’ll receive this message when I start my car (if the device is already on) and this is normal. However the day this had happened I drove my car down the street, pulled off and shut my car off and waited 30 second before restarting hoping to see the system reset but it did not. One thing I remember though is hearing that “Low Voltage” noise prior to even restarting my car. So it’s possible my battery could be starting to fail. Its something good to be aware of. :).
  24. Something to look into definitely. If you don't mind explaining where such resistor would be found that would be cool. It hasn't done it sense, was curious if it was a fluke electronic malfunction. I am starting to feel fluke electronic malfunctions are common on this ford edge (since this would be the second time a strange occurrence has happened since I have owned the vehicle but hasn't shown up again lol).
  25. This is excellent to know :). I tried the reset but ai don't think I did it right, your explanation was perfect at explaining how to do it. Ill try it next time if it happens again. This vehicle is new to me (3-4 months) it has 40,000 miles on it I haven't changed it at all. If its easy to do I will look into it