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Posts posted by Tmaf901

  1. Hello,


    I drive mostly in the city, but occasionally outside of the city and my average full tank “miles until E” reading fluctuates very much depending on the week. Granted I know these readings can be pretty inaccurate from time to time, it fluctuates between 290 and 410 miles until E at a full tank. Im curious if other people have this similar problem or if maybe I have something else going on.


    I have not done my own calculations yet to determine realistic numbers, but I decided to make a post to see if other people have this same issue.


    My average MPG according to the car is 19 and if you calculate off that, it should have 300 miles until E.


    What is everybody else's numbers and driving habits?

  2. Just wanted to update everybody on this issue. After taking it to the last dealer I went too, they guaranteed me that placing a new battery and an official OEM ground connection instead of the makeshift ground connection that was originally there would fix my entire problem. I was extremely skeptical but nonetheless I paid the outrageous price to have that done. Its been 6-8 months I want to say now and absolutely no more problems as of now. Seems like it all went away, moral of the story is if you have electrical based issues that make absolutely no sense - check the ground first *facepalm*.

    • Like 2

  3. On 9/28/2021 at 7:21 PM, LarryL said:

    This has happened to me on 2 occasions. I'm driving on the highway at 65-70ph when I feel a clunk and my power is suddenly gone. No response when pushing the accelerator, and the engine is running really rough, like the timing is suddenly off. I pull to the side of the road, the yellow wrench ight is on. I turn off the car, and immediately restart. The engine runs fine, no warning lights, no problems at all. I took it to the shop 2 days later and there were no codes showing and they drove around a lot, unable to replicate the problem. Has anyone else had this problem? My Edge is the 2013 3.5L 6 cyl AWD 80,000 miles. 

    can I ask if replacing the throttle body fixed this problem?? You described just what I am experiencing on my 2017 ford edge 2.7l 6 cyl…


    A harsh clunk as if the transmission failed to enter a gear or something. It seems to happen whenever I press the accelerator more than I was previously. For example going up large hills here in NY will require a little more throttle where it will down shift and then I SOMETIMES get a clunk and all these issues.


    I cleared all previous data (and posted previous data on this forum somewhere) and now its happened 3 times but without throwing any codes or anything anymore…


    These intermittent undiagnosable issues are so annoying. Everything I read continues to point me back to the throttle body or ECM issue, but why would a throttle body issue make my vehicle clunk when this happens idk..

  4. Dealership stated there was no codes, but I received my OBDLink and used forscan to find these codes. Some of them have dates back to 2018 before I owned the vehicle.


    Parking Aid Module

    U0100:00-28 Lost Communication with ECM

    U0101:00-28 Lost Communication with TCM


    Rear Gate/Trunk Module

    B1306:12-08 Liftgate Ajar Switch

    B144F:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk...

    B145D:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk...

    B145D:12-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk...

    U0101:87-08 Lost communication with TCM

    U0294:87-08 Lost communication with Po...


    Occupant Classification System Module

    U0401:00-28 Invalid Data received from ECM


    Cruise Control Module

    U0401:86-28 Invalid data received from ECM


    Antilock Braking System

    U0428:81-60 Invalid Data received from...

    U0104:00-20 Lost communication with Cr...

    U3003:16-68 Battery Voltage

    B1111:53-20 Electric Park Brake Enable

    P193B:86-20 Throttle/Pedal Signal

    U0100:00-20 Lost communication with ECM


    Drivers Door Module

    B1165:15-08 Left Front Puddle Lamp Output


    Restraint Control Module

    B00A0:68-28 Occupant Classification System...


    Power Steering Control Module

    U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM

    U0401:00-08 Invalid Data Recieved from ECM


    Instrument Panel Control Module

    U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM

    U0104:00-08 Lost Communication with Cr...

    U3003:16-08 Battery Voltage


    I've done a lot of research on individual codes. Obviously, there are lots of loss of communication with the ECM. Going to have dealership check computer connections, I guess. If you have any thoughts, feel free to let me know. Some of these codes have a date and freeze-frame data that is dated for 2018 before I owned the car.

    • Confused 1

  5. 40 minutes ago, Cerberus said:

    I hate to say this, but the random  symptoms sounds somewhat like a flood car problem..

    Off topic: Its ironic you said that, because I had a dream two nights ago I drove my car into a river on accident lmaoo.


    Regardless, I feel like there would be more problems. It seems to me like a pcm or tcm problem, or wiring between them idk.


    Overall, I love the vehicle.

  6. 5 hours ago, omar302 said:

    If I were you, I'd try to read the error codes while the problem is still present, before turning off the vehicle. More specifically, using ForScan.


    I remember before in some older models where the throttle body would fail and caused issues including getting into limp mode, but trouble codes would get erased once the vehicle is turned off and restarted. 

    Initially I thought throttle body malfunction, or AWD malfunction. Then with all the different errors that appear on the dash I started thinking PCM failure because it was different each time. The past two times its only been the one wrench icon, and airbag light.


    Im taking it to ford this morning, they will try to read any data they can on the computer but I am sure they wont be able to pull up anything as they said this last time.


    Edit: guy that told me to “bring it in as soon as this issue happens so they can at least read codes” 5 days ago says they are too busy today to do that for my car. I scheduled foe the 29th.

    Im sure any data - if there is - will be long gone by then. 😔 


    Edit: I just purchased the OBDLink MX+ to use with forscan lite on my phone will be here tomorrow. As of now all I have is a cheap ELM 327 thing off ebay, so some features may not be available but I plugged it in to read codes and under “parking aid module” I have codes U0100 and U0101. If that helps anybody.

    • Like 1

  7. Im not sure if I am allowed to post video links… if not just remove the link or inform me how I can upload a video appropriately to this forum.




    The past two times this has happened was driving only like 40 mph, and this video I was accelerating pretty aggressively to pass a car that pulled out in front of me (on a 4 lane road, 2 in each direction). All that shows up is the wrench icon, no other indicators besides the airbag light. If you notice though, the RPM gauge is fluttering a lot - in park. In drive the engine is even more shaky.


    It also seemed as if my electric steering assist was a bit harder to turn, I am sure that happened each time I just didn't notice until now as the spot to pull off in required me to turn the wheel as I was going really slowly.


    I also had to try to accelerate to get across the one lane and to the side of the road, and it didn't seem like my car was really accelerating any.


    Edit: battery has been secured the best they could BEFORE this happened this time.

  8. 2 hours ago, Cerberus said:

    if they can't find any codes, one possible cause is the PCM is losing its 12V+ battery feed that would allow it to remember the codes & freeze frame data.

    Of course it is also possible that the PCM itself it cooked or has an internal failure, but its better to start with the cheaper tests..

    I don't know the power distribution well enough to tell you where to start looking exactly, but i'd be checking grounds and power connections,

    relays if applicable, even the condition of the main connectors at the PCM for oxidation, water or corrosion.


    If all that checks out, a harness wiggle test is sometimes useful


    Then i'd move on to the big ticket item.. the PCM itself

    So, I was at my friends the other day and her mechanic friend said this exact same thing. We went out to check and my battery is not the official battery. Its another battery, much smaller and isn't even tied down. It has a lot of wiggle room to move around. In addition, the ground wire isn't the official ground wire, its an attachment piece so that it can connect to that battery.


    Could a battery coming disconnected for a split second cause all these issues to happen? Its just strange because you would think with the bumpy roads I endure it would happen much more frequently, but it only happens upon acceleration into a highway or traffic it seems.

  9. 21 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

    If you're wanting to scan for codes yourself you'll need to use a good OBDII adapter and FORScanLite.


    Not sure why the dealership didn't retrieve any codes.



    It wasn't just one dealership I went too. I went to one 2 hrs away, and my closest local one. I explained the situation as I have here and told them to look into the computer for any causes. They always come back with not being able to find anything.

  10. 22 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

    Sounds similar to what I experienced except mine was a "No Crank".


    What code reader are you using?




    I use a simple OBD WIFI tool with OBD Fusion, but I was told by the ford dealer I may not be able to pull up everything stored with that. I took it to the ford dealer each time this has happened, except the last time. They are not able to pull up any data on this situation.

  11. Hello,


    I kindly ask for anybody's opinion on this specific matter. It's getting quite irritating to have such an intermediate issue with no real direction to go in.


    I've owned my 2017 Ford Edge Sport for little over a year now. When I first got the car when accelerating (entering highway/passing other cars mostly) my car jolts as if the transmission shifts down and down and down and I get a whole lot of different error messages on my dash and I think it's different messages each time. Transmission Failure, Coolant Failure, AWD Failure, Blindspot Monitoring Failure, Traction Control Failure, etc etc etc. The time of this posting it happened there was only transmission/wrench icon and I decided to try to take a video of the dash but noticed there wasn't many warnings like before however it was the same exact situation I have been in. I noticed this time an airbag light was on. I kept it in drive for a little bit this time, and I was going to see if I could drive it a bit forward after having stopped on the highway, but the engine was very rough sounding and shaking pretty bad. Once I put the vehicle in park the shaking reduced but the RPM was bouncing pretty rapidly between 750-1000. I shut the car off and restarted (and.. everything returns to normal operating conditions).




    I'm just trying to get anybody's opinion to help me in a direction I should take this. This is very clearly going to cause an accident.


    My theroy is the PCM. Maybe the spark/coil pack. Has ANYBODY experienced this before?? Thank you.

  12. On 1/9/2021 at 10:37 AM, ezndo said:

    This has happened 3X on separate occasions to my wife.  2016 Edge Sport, 2.7EB, 10K miles.  Driving normally and car shuts off, complete loss of power.  Restarts fine.  When she arrived back home, I checked for codes, none.  Maybe restarting erases the codes?  I replaced the battery, thinking the OEM battery was near its life expectancy, and it stalled  again after the replacement.  Been reading up on this, seems to be an issue with the 3.5L(throttle body) but could not find an issue with the 2.7EB.  Anyone have insight?  Thanks.

    Ask her what exactly happens. Hard shifting by the transmission as shes slowing down. I assume loss of acceleration. All dash lights on?


    Ive been having a problem with the symptoms above and I truthfully think its to do with the computer module that takes all the sensor data in. I think it errors out and causes this. No stored codes - read by a ford dealer each time. No trace back to and issues. Check engine was on, but it doesn't store the code. Maybe it cant, because the whole ECM is confused and so it cant store any code 🤷‍♂️. Its a major intermediate saftey issue imo.

  13. On 6/21/2022 at 9:16 PM, Tmaf901 said:

    This is my main post about my issue I have been having, its happened two times since I have owned the vehicle. First occurrence was 1-2 months after owning, the second was 1-2 months after the first incident.


    Since the dealer couldn't give me a good explanation I decided to switch to premium 93 fuel. Its been probably a good 7-8 months now without this issue.


    Im not going to say gas was causing this issue of mine - but it seems to be the only thing I can link to having fixed it and wanted to update everybody.


    Personally with the economy and everything I wouldn't be surprised if gas stations are skimping on 87 gas and it just so happens to be harming most vehicles (this is a conspiracy theory… but who really knows).

    Unfortunately by posting here I have manifested the problem back into existence.


    I had a long drive today (80 miles or so), its damp since it rained last night, humid as well as condensation built on my windshield while driving (the climate wasn't on at the time). About 5-10 miles into my drive this issue happened again for the third time since owning my car. I went to pass a vehicle as I was already in a time crunch and as I was switching over the lane to pass the acceleration stopped. All the warnings came on like last time. A warning I noticed this time was about engine coolant temp.


    In the past I only seen advance trac, BLIS system and many other warnings but I never toggled through them. I always thought this problem was transmission or AWD malfunction until now. Engine coolant temp wouldn't really have anything to do with transmission/awd system would it?


    At this point I feel its the main computer board causing this issue. Like it errors out, and doesn't know what to do. Everything tries to go back to their neutral position, hence why the transmission shifts so hard as I am slowing down. It tries its best to get back to a neutral or gear 1 on its own. Thats why I loose acceleration, as the throttle body goes back to whatever position it would be in if it wasn't being used.


    I didnt catch a video, the last two occurrences the one happened on a highway in a bad spot where I couldn't pull over, and today I was already late to my appointment.


    Let me know your thoughts :).


    Edit: would it make sense that the ECM (or whatever the main computer of the car is) is where your trouble codes are stored, and since my whole dash lights up which includes a check engine light but after restarting theres no explanation, nothing logged. Maybe that means the ECM is really failing - because when its in its errored state its not able to store information. Its all sorts of confused.

  14. This is my main post about my issue I have been having, its happened two times since I have owned the vehicle. First occurrence was 1-2 months after owning, the second was 1-2 months after the first incident.


    Since the dealer couldn't give me a good explanation I decided to switch to premium 93 fuel. Its been probably a good 7-8 months now without this issue.


    Im not going to say gas was causing this issue of mine - but it seems to be the only thing I can link to having fixed it and wanted to update everybody.


    Personally with the economy and everything I wouldn't be surprised if gas stations are skimping on 87 gas and it just so happens to be harming most vehicles (this is a conspiracy theory… but who really knows).

  15. 1 hour ago, John Johnson said:

    Hi everyone, i am a new member here and looking for answers to a problem ive ben experiencing with my 2016 ford edge eco boost. After filling my tank up with gas my rpms drop down if i come to a red light and kinda flutter. It only happens after filling up gas. It usually goes away after driving a couple miles but will return next fill up. 

    Most likely the same issue I had in my last post on this thread. Simple fix you can do yourself if it is the 2.7l ecoboost 6 cyl engine. I posted the aftermarket part I used in this thread. Still going strong, no issues anymore. Idk if the part is in the same location or if its the same problem on the 4 cyl 2.0l.

  16. On 2/13/2022 at 12:00 AM, sportspice said:

    I seem to remember a wrench and I have read of Throttle Body issues.


    It seems like sometimes it is searching a bit on acceleration and Ford has had many claims on the throttle bodies in various vehicles.


    That was on my mind to stab at since they are reasonable in cost but wanted to study aftermarket and maybe enhance the power some.


    Ford dealer did my oil change, change air filter, checked spark-plugs. According to them (and he brought it out to me) it is pretty black, he said this was carbon buildup. Suggested changing sparks, but the vehicle only has 42,000 miles on it. $300 to do that.. he also suggested an emissions system cleaning service $200.


    No codes were found (we already knew there wasn't going to be). He seemed to avoid talking about throttle body replacement, suggestion was to grab throttle body cleaner from auto zone. He also said there is cheaper stuff I can get and do myself from an auto store. The only reason their prices are higher is because their services are warrentied which makes sense I guess.


    Setting up an appointment to get PTU fluid changed, but going to wait on the RDU.


    Any thoughts on this anybody?

  17. On 2/8/2022 at 6:47 AM, sportspice said:

    The PTU is 100% mechanical, nothing intermittent can be associated with it


    Same with Rear Differential, there is an electric "clutch" that allows torque to be applied to the pinion gear.


    I'm not 100% sure but it almost feels like these may have a lock-up converter and if so I feel this happens in that lock-up range and could be associated with that.


    If no lock-up converter, it has to do with the gear change and I'm not sure what gears are in that range, probably 3 and 4 from my experience.


    I feel its in power management and maybe the system just has a sweet spot for confusion.


    Just know its pretty damn violent on the transmission and I feel at one of these incidents something will pop.


    We called a larger local Ford dealer explaining the issue and of course they had never heard of it and "Bring it in"


    It does not happen if we keep foot out of it, one day I'll get time to hook it up to forscan and maybe see something.


    If you get any genuine constructive feedback from your dealer DO KEEP US POSTED!


    THANKS for sharing your common issue!



    Soo Ive been googling like crazy and I happened to zone in on the individual light errors that I can remember with our specific model of the car and the issue we’ve been having. I remember during both times that this has happened to me I had a wrench light. For a while I thought that just went with the check engine and didn't really give it a second thought but the wrench indicator shows there is a problem somewhere in the powertrain. Googling there was a 2007 model that I seen had a very similar situation where they were driving and all the sudden their service lights would come on and have harsh shifting, pull over and restart everything is fine.


    As far as I have gathered, most people suggested a fix by replacing the electric throttle body.


    There was one other situation on a 2011 and 2013 sport version where the same situation occurred and it was suggested there to replace the electric throttle body as well.


    Do you remember there being a wrench light (there was definitely plenty of warning lights during these instances..). Does this sound like a suitable possible solution?


    When my vehicle goes to the garage on Wednesday I am going to have them look into it. Maybe they can see if its functioning correctly.

  18. 3 hours ago, sportspice said:

    That sounds pretty much identical to what we experienced a few times now.


    Oddly enough we were driving in ice and snow last week and the dash told me it had disabled AWD.


    We own 2 FLEX and my wife wanted this thing,, I can't count how many times I have said "Sure aint a FLEX"


    I have had more issues with this crap wagon than both FLEX and this is 5 years newer, I would never buy another EDGE I can 100% say that.


    Of course EDGE was never in the same price tier either, its just a cheap ride, one step above the ESCAPE.


    Shame they are just not more reliable.


    Been looking for another FLEX but damn have prices gone up.

    Need to see what this pile is worth, may be able to break even or close.


    At least I am not alone, I am sure there are more than just us out there experiencing the same issues. Tomorrow I will call the dealer to get it on record again that I am having this issue, as well as talk to them about PTU, RDU, Coolant, and Trans flush prices. Assuming its never been done before, I think its due. Heck, maybe PTU/RDU flushes would fix the issue for all I know.


    This problem is really an intermittent, undiagnosable issue because there is so many things that could be causing this and nothing pointing to the root of the problem.


    All we know is this happens when there is a more rapid acceleration.

  19. This sounds EXACTLY like the situation I have been having the past few months. I purchased a 2017 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L ecoboost about 4-5 months ago originally with like 37,000 miles on it. I have driven it 6000 miles since and have done 1 (soon to be 2) oil chances on it. I did post about it, but I figured it was just a fluke issue that happens occasionally because of electronics malfunction (as most cars now adays have a lot of electronic sensors that could fail) until today. It happened again within a month or two of my last posting...


    Both situations happened where I was changing lanes from slower lane to faster lane of traffic.


    The first instance happened in a 45mph zone, so I was traveling maybe 30mph at first and hit the accelerator to gain speed to 45 when the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Initially the transmission made a hard shift, dash lit up, and it made another hard shift when I pulled over and shut it off to turn it back on. Most of the notifications on the dash were to do with advancetrac, parking sensors, cruise control, etc.


    The second instance (today) I was hopping onto a highway where I was initially traveling 50-60mph in the right lane and moved to left lane to get to 75mph+. My car made a hard clunk again, and my dash lit up saying the same things. I was going to take a video, but unfortunately, I did not have a good location to pull off (very short shoulder, partially in the right lane and in a very bad spot for other vehicles to see me when they were coming around the bend...) so I just shut it off and turned it back on and everything is normal, yet again.


    It's very concerning as this can cause accidents quite easily depending on where it happens. I did not try to accelerate during these situations, I was more focused on shutting my car off to prevent further damage (if damage was occurring).


    I was curious if it had something to do with the AWD system not engaging properly. I notice that after a while of driving my car will switch from AWD to FWD which it is supposed to do, but whenever I go to hit the gas enough the car will throw into AWD again, this happens when the transmission shifts from whatever gear its currently in to a lower gear to give you more torque. Maybe it tries to engage but fails to and this causes the transmission to have extra drag (or maybe not as much drag as it expects) since the car thinks it should be in AWD, and this throws everything off..

  20. 2 hours ago, Xtra said:

    Now this is just a guess and perhaps you have floored your new car in the past and it  ran great  . If so then please disregard this as your wastegate is most likely fine.


     I have read that if the 2.7EB is driven so easy that the turbos  wastegate never opens over a long period of time, it can become stuck closed. There by creating an overboost condition when giving it gas accelerating hard, not even WOT. As soon as overboost is detected the car goes into limp mode. If the prior owner drove super conservative they would never have known the wastegate was stuck. It took a different driver that uses the car’s power to discover the problem. A stuck wastegate will also give uneven boost and that might have something to with your transmission shift. As I said just a guess, I hopefully you will get this sorted and you can enjoy your new car to its fullest  potential. 

    Very well thought of explanation, I have definitely gunned it more than I should've a few times since owning the car. This problem hasn't occurred since. Im afraid this is only one of too many possible causes lol. Weird transmission upshifts (2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th idk) still happens occasionally mostly when I am costing/making a turn into a parking lot, but not as frequently I have noticed.


    Being colder up here in NY I would assume thats why I haven't noticed as many.

  21. 56 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

    He mentioned he hit the "auto" button. Believe he has the auto climate control system.


    Tmaf901, the resister is located on (or near) the motor (needs air over for cooling). However if you have an auto climate control system, (you mentioned that you hit the "auto" button, not present in a manual system) there is no resistor pack. It's all done through the control module.


    If you have a manual system, the resistor pack failed as WWWPerfA_ZNOW stated. (Nothing else can cause this). If you have the auto system, the hvac electronic module had a hiccup.


    (On an auto climate system, one 'possible' cause is a weak vehicle battery. Do you make short trips when you drive? Short trips don't properly recharge the battery properly). When the battery gets weak, the voltage runs low and these modules are sensitive to low voltage. If not short trips, its possible it's just getting worn out from age/use. Or, the module got passed off that day and decided to go on strike. Happens. 

    This is all very useful information that may help somebody in the near future. Yes the climate system has an automatic feature, however I hate that feature and keep it off haha.


    I have a radar detector hooked up (it turns off when all the electronics in the car automatically turn off, or after 1 hr of no GPS activity) but when on it tells me “Low Voltage” if the voltage level drops low enough. Usually I’ll receive this message when I start my car (if the device is already on) and this is normal. However the day this had happened I drove my car down the street, pulled off and shut my car off and waited 30 second before restarting hoping to see the system reset but it did not. One thing I remember though is hearing that “Low Voltage” noise prior to even restarting my car. So it’s possible my battery could be starting to fail. Its something good to be aware of. :).

  22. 24 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

    if there is a replaceable resistor, you may need to check that.  when it fails, it defaults to HIGH.

    Something to look into definitely. If you don't mind explaining where such resistor would be found that would be cool. It hasn't done it sense, was curious if it was a fluke electronic malfunction.


    I am starting to feel fluke electronic malfunctions are common on this ford edge (since this would be the second time a strange occurrence has happened since I have owned the vehicle but hasn't shown up again lol).

  23. 1 hour ago, enigma-2 said:

    If it happens again, you could try resetting the hvac module.


    Hold down the climate control power button and the defrost button at the same time, release then press the climate control power button one more time and that will reset your heater.


    Unrelated to the problem, but how long has it been since you changed your cabin air filter?

    This is excellent to know :). I tried the reset but ai don't think I did it right, your explanation was perfect at explaining how to do it. Ill try it next time if it happens again.


    This vehicle is new to me (3-4 months) it has 40,000 miles on it I haven't changed it at all. If its easy to do I will look into it :)

  24. Hello,


    Last night my climate control was working fine however this morning when I started my car up to head to work my climate blower was stuck on full blast. I tried to turn the car off and on multiple time, turn the climate system off and on, turn it down with the physical button and every time I did that it says “Fan 0” as if its at a 0 speed and I couldn't change it at all.


    I googled and searched this forum for an answer but I couldn't really find anything. My settings when I shut my car off was not auto or anything like that, and the auto light in the sync system was not lit up, however my auto settings for just the defrost/front/feet settings was set to auto, but that didn't extend to the fan box like it would normally.


    Long story short I just started hitting all the buttons, and every one of them worked (temp would change, actuator would work, heated/cooled seats worked) everything worked except that fan which was stuck on high.


    I finally was able to hit the “auto” button which didn't change the fan speed at the time, but did put that auto box around the fan setting which was at least something. I turned auto back off and had full fan control again, sort of like it was stuck in an auto all by itself but I had never clicked or had my car in an auto setting for climate, so somewhere along the line my car had changed that setting on its own.


    I just wanted to tell my story for anybody else who may be having this issue :).

  25. Just wanted to update everybody about my issue, I ended up ordering an aftermarket purge valve to replace the old one. I just put it on today and had my first fill up. Idle seems to be smooth, no rough idling. Im confident this has fixed my issues.


    The aftermarket part I used specs:


    Duralast PV967 (V21278) (https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/p/duralast-canister-purge-valve-pv967/591684_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ENM:8362629075&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhMOMBhDhARIsAPVml-GteHZzyPO1AY6HqpvKcC8IfISkt9MCA66sPspWSpCPoI2XRi-tNUgaAi6iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)

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