2015Edge2015

Update. Had the tranny fixed. :). 4400$ and it was rebuild with a new torque converter. Runs good again. Also experimented with Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealant. It actually worked and still working. Been 2 weeks since I followed the instructions on the bottle and CEL cleared and isn't loosing water. I know it's your miles will vary with these products.  But did read somewhere a guy used it for his ecoboost and lasted 9 months. Crossing my fingers. This car deserves another shot! 

2 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

sorry to hear. flexplate issue?

No. Torque converter and highly recommended to rebuild it. There's a slight noise coming from the inside. 2 shops already looked at it and both said absolutely rebuild it. 4400$ to do it from a independant shop.  One of the shop was the dealer. They quoted me for all the job of Tranny and Long block. 21k . Hahahahahhaha! Found it hilarious. Loved driving these cars since 2013. But I must part now. 

LOL. My transmission just gave out. Ok........ I'm done. Nice interacting with you guys through out the years. Good luck all!

On 4/12/2022 at 1:20 PM, Walby said:

Same problem with my 2017 Edge Titanium.  This is round 3 for me.  in the 1990's I bought a Jeep Cherokee.  As I passed the warranty period, the inline 6 began rattling - it sounded like a diesel.  Ran fine, just sounded bad.  Chrysler dealer looked at it, and without even asking Chrysler sent a short block and paid for the change over.  Traded a 2008 GMC Acadia for my 2017 Edge, 120,000+ miles in check engine light came on.  Timing chain had stretched and could no longer adjust the timing in under load.  $3,600 repair because the engine had to be completely dropped out of the car to get to the timing chain.  One request and GMC paid the bill.  Here we are on round 3 and many of you are reporting that Ford is balking...  Hope this isn't strike 3 for me.

 

One of you mentioned contacting a lawyer who is in arbitration with Ford.  Anyone have a list or can recommend such a lawyer to me?

Yep. Same boat. Bought American to support our country. Had a Saturn SUV. Torque converter gave up with a rattle inside tranny. Put a torque and traded for a 2011 edge. Loved it. But coolant inside oil on the 3.5 l engine made me trade it in asap for a 2015 edge. Now  hit with another coolant issue. Coolant on cylinder 1,3 and 4. Drinks water.  Last week added blue devil as a last resort since dealer said 7k for long block. So far its holding but i think my water pump paid the price. Hearing it whine a little and water level dropping slightly again. Will have to keep a eye on it. Called Ford Corporate, they said nothing tgey can do but to notify NTH place... forget the name. The National Highway Transportation place. And said to reported so it gets linked to my vin and hopefully it gets a recall. So... pretty much told to pound sand. Lol.  So here i am debating if i should give Ford another shot. Nawww..... I'm done. Currently looking at the new 2022 Rav4 Hybrids... they look so much like the edges. Really want one of those now! Check them out if you want a similar body styling.  I think the interior is CRAP compared to the Edges... but I'm DONE with these coolant issues. 

P.S.    Are the water pumps easy to do on the 2.0L engine? Anyone know?

1 hour ago, Virtualtracy said:

Scroll up in the messages and the issue is described. Basically it started out as you describe, then more like a shoulder shrug, meaning one side would try to lift while the other remainder down. My dash light world read open liftgate as it did not fully close again until I pushed down on it. I already stated what was replaced before Ford updated the rear tail gate module (rtgm) software. Look up the ssm 49914 which states it is now a recognized issue by Ford.

Ohhh! Wow.. very similar. Ok. So what did they do to fix it? Replace something or reprogram?

18 minutes ago, Virtualtracy said:

Hello all,

 

Oh happy day, I finally have a working power liftgate again! I finally took my Edge in for the recall on the front flexible brake hose and I took it to a different dealership in my area and asked them to run a diagnostic on the liftgate as it was still not working and draining out my battery.

Before this we tried replacing the hydraulic lifts, did not resolve the problem; we tried replacing the control module, did not work but after this step I was able to use the lift manually, before that step it was completely useless.

 

The Ford tech updated the RTGM module which I asked another dealership if this could be the problem but the lazy butts did not bother to from the diagnostic as requested. Ford released SSM 49914 (TSB?) in June of 2021 acknowledging this issue.

 

I hope this helps everyone that is still struggling with this issue.

What were your symptoms?  And what was replaced? Mines is doing something weird lately. If I open it and close it and immediately open it again then close it, it stays closed and have the dash light that's open. Nothing opens it u less half a day passes by and then fixes itself. 

On 3/23/2022 at 9:05 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

@2015Edge2015 what mileage on your vehicle? sorry if i missed it in this thread ...

 

if under 100K, or if just out of the powertrain warranty period, you can work with ford corporate to at least get part of the cost reimbursed. there might be law firms out there that will mediate for you as well.

In talk with one atm. Let's see what happens. Hey, does this car have a drop in thermostat?  Or part of the housing?  I'm going to add blue devil to try to see if I get more miles. One guy had luck and got about a year more with no bad aide effects.

Terrible design imo. For the people that don't have a garage and park at random spots around their living quaters... you will never notice  a leak if you develop one.

Just got quoted 6978.00$ to replace to a long block.    hating this car with all the issues.

For those that did it, did you go to dealer or independant shop? And how much? I've seen people say 5200$ to 8000$. Just depends where you are. So maybe post location and cost. I'm facing this atm. Thinking of doing it since it's far cheaper than getting another car loan. 

On 2/15/2022 at 11:46 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

you may be able to get an estimate off of repairpal.com - on us spec vehicles anyway

 

Too much info to get a quote. But thanks. If anyone has had the turbo replaced by a shop... post how much you got charged. 

16 hours ago, edkene said:

Hey 2015,

 

I was 100% out of warranty. I was at 64,000 miles and 5 years and two months of ownership (warranty is 60,000 miles or 5 years). 

 

Thanks for the reply. Good information! And yeah... 156k miles will probably not be in my favor but knowing these engines are almost all failing... might still help someone us with higher mileage. I ended up driving the car to the dealer since a rough IDLE came today around mid day. Would not go away like when at start up with the coolant in it. Even tried changing  #3 plug in which my scanner pointed as misfiring.  But it didn't fix it... rough idle. So just stopped there and took it to the dealer for them to diagnose it. Well ... let's see what happens now. 

On 1/25/2022 at 2:36 PM, edkene said:

Sorry for the delay in an update but wanted to get everything worked out with Ford first.  
 

Took the vehicle in last week and they were backed up on getting to the vehicle - seems the local dealership has been over-booking their techs. First day didn’t get to it, finally got to it the second day. They took a look and suspected a coolant intrusion problem so pressurized the coolant system and left it overnight. The next morning they pulled the plugs (this is the method outlined by the TSB), looked for water intrusion and what do you know, I’ve got a problem. They give me a call and say it isn’t under warranty and it’ll be close to $7k to fix. 
 

I then called Ford customer service and explained the issue. Bunch of back and forth later and I’m paying less than 25% of the quoted amount and Ford is covering the rest (thank you for the “latent defect” phrase). Interesting thing I learned - the amount I’m paying and the amount Ford is paying (combined) is less than the quoted amount from the dealership. When I asked the dealership about the discrepancy I was told that my initial quote was the “customer amount” and the new amount that is being paid is the “warranty amount.”

 

I now have the parts on order and will be awaiting the repair. When dealing with Ford they said they would reimburse me for my rental vehicle cost, which is a nice and unexpected addition. 
 

On an extra note, when I first took the vehicle in to the dealership I asked if they were seeing a lot of these engines with this issue - the service adviser said that he has been seeing an awful lot of them lately. When I asked what people who are out of warranty have been doing he replied that they have normally been trading them in. I can’t imagine the hit people are taking by trading in a vehicle with a useless engine. 

I'm in the same boat. Coolant intrusion. Not sure how to handle this since trading it in is just impossible. CeL light is on permanently and eats cooland rather quick. Top it off every 4 days or so. My question for you is... did you have any kind of warranty on it? Or were you 100% out of any warranty? I'm asking since the "latent defect" phrase made Ford pay for some of the cost. Thinking of doing the same but I'm 100% in the no extended warranty boat and think it would be hard to get them to help me out. 7 to 8k is just not doable and feel as this should be treated like the 1.6 liter motor settlement everyone got due to the very same nature of the problem. Any advice would be appreciated.  I like this car alot. Oh btw, I have 156k miles.

Anyone know what's the cost at the dealer to replace the Turbo? 2015 2.0L model.

Definitely make sure it don't have the internal coolant leak we are ALL getting. And yes... it can be hidden with coolant head gasket seal temporarily. 

I live In a major city in CA. And it's a very hilly type city. I can make the car give me 12 mph easily just driving local. Luckily I don't... hit the freeway more than anything. I can get 30mpg there.

On 2/1/2022 at 7:57 AM, Dulce said:

I have ?… and it works fine. I have no plans in replacing my engine, just driving it till it drops. I have used the Kseal in coolant and has helped alot. I know its just a bandaid but I will continue to bandaid to keep it running. 
Note : 2016 Ford Edge current mileage 113k 

Lol! I'm doing the same. Will add water until the engines falls off. I'll probably try kseal. I heard good stuff about blue devil. Just scared to ruin my heater core with all those products!

You need a new engine 100%. The person who sold it to you most likely knew. My 2015 is doing the same. Rough idle at start up. Now a CEL light of cyl 3 misfire. And waterfall noise.  Been told it needs a new engine by a shop. So I'm driving it and topping it off until lord knows what's going to happen. Seems like the 2.0l Cleveland engine is faulty from the factory. There's a class action lawsuit going on but haven't heard anything of it sadly. Crossing my fingers ford does the right thing . Im done with ford if not. Next car will be a Japanese suv or full electric. 

Have any of you guys just topped off the cooland when needed? How much worse can it get besides the initial rough idle at start up? Does it eventually poor coolant inside the cylinder ? Or just trickles inside forever?

On 1/1/2022 at 8:52 AM, Cerberus said:

Generally a long block is defined as everything except intake and exhaust manifolds, brackets etc,, and sometimes does not include valvecovers and oil pans etc

 

Short block is as above minus the head and oil pan

Sorry.. I'm a total noob to this. When you said everything but the manifold and intake manifolds.... you mean the turbo also gets replaced? I want to be clear on the turbo since lots of people say that it goes bad and it's expensive to replace. 

On 1/1/2022 at 10:41 AM, Dulce said:

Happy New Year Everyone ?,

 Mid November I added K-Seal to my coolant reservoir.

About a week after I poured the K -seal, the water noise pretty much resolved, my heater started working again and the engine light went off (disappeared/ not on anymore). 

I still have coolant loss about the same amount. I had one incident were car did not want to turn on at all.Turned ac/heater off and yup car turned on (no problem since then even with heater/ac on).
Had two incidents were thermostat suddenly jump to  overheat car alarm when off. Pulled over, turned off car no smoke or sign of it over heating coolant level was good. Turned car back on almost immediately and back to normal like nothing , drove it home 200+miles. 
Still has a slight rough start at times, still fill up coolant every so often depending how far I drive. It seems it only resolved the water noise and engine light turned off. 
Does it work ???…… I don’t really know lol !!

 

I hear good stuff on blue devil. Scared to try it! Business at 150k and started to show all the symptoms.  So I know I need a new engine. And doing the same... just add the water that it looses and crossing my fingers it lasts longer.

Quick question. If rhe 2.0L get the long block replacement, what exactly gets replaced? Do you essentially get a brand new engine? Like the top end head gets replaced aswell with a new head and valves? What gets reused? Like does the turbo also get replaced with a new one or do they reinstall your old turbo? Debating if the 8k is worth dropping for it or just move one from the car.

16 hours ago, 2015Edge2015 said:

Hi guys. But confused which to buy. I'm aware I need the mode version. But reading on the Amazon Doorman one. People are saying that you need to replace both. Driver and passenger side. I thought theres only 1 module on the driver side. I have the titanium build with the dual climate control. Can someone clarify... and so you all know...... mines is stick at the front vents and no buttons on the touch screen do anything. 

If anyone can clarify this question,  would help a lot. So i purchase the right one.

On 11/24/2021 at 4:02 PM, Jt41time said:

Its very easy to change.... or just clean it. 

The actuator is right next to your knee or ankle... 

Take off the bottom plastic panal and the lower steering column plastic. There will 3 screws holding on the actuator. Top left one will be covered in a wire bundle, just move aside. The top right is easy. The bottom right is harder for sure, long screw driver.... and then the wire connector is easy. 

After out, you can pull the actuator apart, little plastic tabs, that you will break hold the thing together... open it up and clean the whole thing with rubbing alcohol. The grease screws with the pot in there. Then put it back together. I had to use some superglue. 

Plug it in, then run the heater and ac controls and you should feel it move.... then reinstall. 

 

After I did mine, it lasted a few days, long enough to amazon me a new for less then 30$. I replaced the old one in 25 mins, in the street, in the dark.... worked great so far, a month now.... 

 

Do you have the titanium version with dual climate control? If so...the  driver side like you stated is what you change right? The Amazon link to the door man has reviews with people saying to change both sides. I thought there's only 1 side [driver side]

Hi guys. But confused which to buy. I'm aware I need the mode version. But reading on the Amazon Doorman one. People are saying that you need to replace both. Driver and passenger side. I thought theres only 1 module on the driver side. I have the titanium build with the dual climate control. Can someone clarify... and so you all know...... mines is stick at the front vents and no buttons on the touch screen do anything. 

6 hours ago, 1004ron said:

One of them is the "Mode" actuator (Directs the air to the upper and lower vents),  and the other is the "Blend" actuator (Blends the Hot and Cold air for temperature control).

Thanks for clarification.  To understand it fully, there are 2 modules or does the trim model dictate the  module you have to buy?