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Hey Guys, thanks for all your help. I was planning on doing the swap later on, but I had to move the car from the house where it is parked. Some notes: - I ended up purchasing the front eye lift tool (303-1245). Could not have done it without it. - The removal instructions were pretty good, although in hindsight everything was pretty straightforward. - You can't use the trans-dapt (engine sling) using the rear eye hook behind the intake manifold. When you raise up the engine, there is not enough clearance under the cowling. So i used the metal bracket next to the passenger side motor mount. However, this lets the engine rock backwards. I removed the shift cable bracket from the transmission, and used a nylon strap on the eye hook on the transmission (attached to the hook on the engine lift) to pull the back of the tranny up. - I could not get one of the oil cooler lines off the side of the tranny, even with the special tool. So i just unscrewed the 24 mm fitting, it has an O-ring, not sure why this is not done in the first place. - I was able to get a dolly under the engine which let me slide it out the passenger side. - The front of the car had to be lifted up quite high. Instead of using the jack stands on the highest position, I used wood boards underneath for stability. - You have to strap the front of the subframe up to the front eye-lift tool when you drop the engine down. The rear is attached with the motor mount, the front is not attached at all. - Once the subframe/engine assembly was on the ground, taking out the CV joints made it easier to move the engine and tranny off the subframe. - I marked the steering wheel coupling to the rack before I removed it, that was a good move because the rack moved when I was messing around with removing the CV joints. - Took about 20 hours, I had to swap accessories off old engine to newer one. - The torque converter bolts are grade 10.9, so they are not stretch bolts. I just used more blue loctite on them. Pictures attached. Thanks, George