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Found 4 results

  1. My 2010 SEL doesn't ride as well as it used to. Maybe because the steering and suspension parts are all original with 173K miles on them. However it does ride straight, no uneven tire wear, no strange noises, doesn't not sag on one side but the rear seems to sit lower these days. Pushing down on the body above each tire seems to be pretty stiff and it bounces back up HOWEVER......It does sway alot when turning and is real rough and loud over bumps "BANG". I also tow small trailers with it. I am researching what I should replace getting the ride back to a comfortable experience. I am planning on turning it over to my son when he gets his license and want it in the best mechanical condition. After a visual inspection, my thoughts are to replace: -Rear shocks, springs, sway bar links and bushings -Front strut/springs, sway bar links an bushings, upper/lower control arm I've priced all the parts on Rock Auto and realize the total investment I am looking for any advice on: -The best parts -What can to test to make sure I wont need to replace something, say like the springs -what to replace first in what order- rear or front first or all at once? -when to get an alignment Any advice is would be awesome!!
  2. This is a video on the DIY on how to remove and install new struts on you ford edge. Model shown is the 2011 Ford Edge LImited FWD with about 130K miles on it at the time. The strut bearing mounts are motorcraft and the struts are KYB excel G struts, which are a firmer strut when compared the Monroes.
  3. I've watched the excellent videos from MAC and will refer to the AWD build thread here, but I was hoping to get a double-check on my gameplan (unsure of differences between AWD and FWD). Background: my girlfriend's struts are completely gone, and one of the bellows is torn/exposing the shaft. The left ball joint (I think, it's not the brakes) is making an intermittent metal scraping sound, so I told her to park it until I'm done. I assume the rear shocks are OEM too. Car has about 93k miles total. Goal: Ultimately, I'd just like to keep it on the road another 50k miles at least. Fix obvious issues like struts/ball joints, but also any other parts that are associated with this work while I have it apart. EG - I plan to replace the strut mounts, bushings, bellows, etc. in lieu of just swapping the strut. I'll plan to do ball joints left and right, even though only the left is dying (I think). Maybe I should do sway bar stuff as well? Tie rod ends? Wheel bearings? Spark plugs? Suspension : Control Arm MOOG RK620487 {#8T4Z3079A} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint R-Series Front Left Lower A $67.79 $67.79 MOOG RK620486 {#8T4Z3078A} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint R-Series Front Right Lower B $67.79 $67.79 Suspension : Shock Absorber KYB 349068 GR-2 / Excel-G Rear D $38.79 $77.58 Suspension : Strut Mount MOTORCRAFT AD1071 {#9T4Z18183A} Front Upper A $32.89 $65.78 Suspension : Strut Bellow SACHS 900096 (Only 4 Remaining) Front C $14.12 $28.24 Suspension : Strut KYB 334693 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Left D $80.79 $80.79 KYB 334692 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Right D $80.79 $80.79 Suspension : Coil Spring Insulator MONROE 907948 Strut-Mate Coil Spring Insulator Front Upper C $7.86 $15.72 Suspension : Strut Mount Bushing MOTORCRAFT AD1060 {#8T4Z18198A} Front A $5.16 $10.32 Suspension : Stabilizer Bar Link MOOG K750184 {#7T4Z5A486AA, 99633306904, L20628170} Problem Solver Rear; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces C $39.79 $79.58 MOOG K750159 {#7T4Z5K483A} Problem Solver Front; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing to Allow Grease to Penetrate Bearing Surfaces C $25.79 $51.58 Ignition : Spark Plug MOTORCRAFT SP411 {#AYFS22FM, AYFS22FMF4} Finewire Platinum Gap: .054 D $3.39 $20.34 Steering : Tie Rod End MOOG ES800473 {#7T4Z3A130A} Problem Solver Right Outer; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces D $32.79 $32.79 MOOG ES800474 {#7T4Z3A130B} Problem Solver Left Outer; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces D $32.79 $32.79 MOOG EV800576 {#7T4Z3280A} Problem Solver Inner D $28.79 $28.79 Looking at $754 shipped here, not sure if I'm completely overdoing it with the tie rod stuff and stabilizer bar links. I might be able to skimp on one of the LCA's for a little while. Just figured if I'm already down there and car is up in the air... Thoughts? I've priced out the KYB stuff for now
  4. What do you need to change or replace on a 2008 Ford Edge with 230,000 miles. I have replaced a total of three wheel bearings with the right front requiring two. (more on that later). I have just finished replacing on both right and left front the following parts. The strut bearing mounts (right front was completely worn) making thumping sounds. The struts (both were completly worn and when pushed down did not extend) I recommend changing the struts and Mounts at 100k as it would be a much better ride. I also changed out the lower control arms/ball joints ( note these are press on and all one unit) The rubber sleeves in both control arms appeared in great shape, but the ball joints were loose with the right front ball joint being very worn and moving) The tie rod ends (outer) were both easily moved to the point that replacement was a better soulution. The Sway bar links had to be replaced just due to the fact that the bolts were so rusted that cutting them off was the only option, so plan on this. The right front wheel bearing was repalced a second time due the the strut and ball joint being so bad that the pressures on the bearing caused it to fail prematurely. The rear shock were changed when tire wear indicated that the shocks were worn, tire wear went away when this was done (look for cuping or inside abnormal wear on the inside tread. Test drive and my Ford Edge is now feeling like it did when I first bought it. Suspension always makes a difference.
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