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I'm trying to remove the intake manifold to access the fuel injectors on my 2017 2.0L Ecoboost. (the next step in my quest to diagnose a repeated cylinder #2 misfire). The brake booster hose runs into the right side of the manifold & seems to require a special tool for removal, or at least I think so. The coupler is red, round and smooth (there's no clips). Does anyone have experience with this hose/coupler and what it takes to remove it? I've searched this forum and the internet and can't seem to find any mention of it. thanks!

I have a 2008 Ford Edge Limited 2WD that recently showed obvious signs of a failed brake booster (i.e. hard brake pedal, no give when engine starts and foot is on the pedal, hissing sound/vacuum leak when brake pedal is pushed). I removed the brake booster and went up to the parts department at my local Ford dealership to get an OEM Motorcraft brake booster. Installed the new brake booster, put everything back together, bled the master cylinder of air and now there is no resistance in the pedal AT ALL. Pumping the brakes does nothing and if you hold down the pedal to the floor there is a noticeably louder hiss coming from near the pedal where the booster arm connects to the brake pedal. The engine will also drop in idle if you hold the pedal down indicating to me a vacuum leak. I'm positive everything is hooked back up correctly and there is no other vacuum leak in the engine bay because the hissing is only heard in the cabin when I press the brake pedal down. Has anyone had this problem with a new Motorcraft brake booster? Is it possible there is something else I'm missing? Will the dealership let me exchange the new, failed brake booster for another one? It did say on the receipt that returned parts must not have been installed but how are you supposed to test a brake booster without installing it first?

Hello, I had my 2011 Edge in to the dealership 2 weeks ago to perform the work described in "Bulletin 13N02" - ("Extended Warranty on Brake Booster on Ford Edge"), due to moderately severe issues with the brake pedal caused by a torn brake booster. I got it back from them and the next day the "Service AdvanceTrac" warning came up on the instrument cluster. It only happens when the vehicle is idling for a bit. I called the dealership back to report what was going on and they said "It is probably just a coincidence" and "We will take a look at it for $199, which will be applied to any repair." Seriously? A new warning *related to the brake system* comes on the day after you complete work on the brakes, and you suggest that it is a coincidence...? Anyway, does anyone know what the common causes of this issue are? Especially ones that could be caused by replacing the brake booster... Thank you *very* much! --mobrien118

Hey everyone, I have a 2011 Ford Edge, and like a lot of you, had the hissing sound from my brake booster back in the early part of 2014, and got my brake booster replaced in late May under warranty. It has never really been "right" since then, though it has been better, and I took it in 2 months ago for an oil change and mentioned it, and the service guy looked at it and they recommended I replace my brakes. In the last few days, I have had to push the brakes to the FLOOR to get the vehicle to stop, and now they are telling me I have to replace the master cylinder ($478.00 + flush the brake system for another $109.00) and I am ticked off. I asked the service guy if the issues with the brake booster could cause the master cylinder to become defective and need replacing, and he said NO. I am curious if this is true??? I feel like I am getting hosed, and should not have to pay for this, or at worst not all of it. Welcome your feedback. Thanks

Dealership says Booster failure is an isolated occurrence, yet parts are on back order for 10-14 days? Car has been in the Dealership 4 times in last 3 months for other items without mention of the potential brake booster failure. Any similar experiences out there?