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Found 5 results

  1. JoeB1951

    Check Charging System alert 2013 3.5L

    Dealer cannot diagnose? Check charging system warning light followed by battery light. 2013 Edge 3.5 Self test alternator 14.6v, battery good Dealer replaced alternator 3 times Dealer replacement of pigtail Dealer replacement of PCM NO SOLUTION, a month of repairs. Ford Customer Relations involved. Any similar experiences with solution?
  2. 2007 Ford Edge SE. Very first, very basic. But it works. Hopefully this will help somebody out there.. I know this has been a frustration of mine for quite some time now. Here's the abridged version. Never worked on cars before - fast learner and attention to detail. 1. Transmission seemed to start slipping; didn't do anything about it until seemed to be persistent/safety concern. 2. Drained Transmission oil (there's a simple drain plug on bottom of transaxle, sticks out) and refilled. Required 10 quarts, though about 1.5 quarts remained from the old fluid, so needed to drain some of the extra to level off correctly. Did NOT see metal flakes in the old (disgustingly black) transmission oil. Smelled burnt, definitely not a lifetime oil, and serious concern for transmission health. Transmission works fine, it just seems the car is getting old and worn and should be handled with more care than previously given (don't drive as a performance car if it ain't designed for it). 3. Week later, car slow to start. By third time starting it that day, won't start and need jump from running vehicle. Battery is only a year old, under warranty got it replaced. THEN, five days later, car SUDDENLY really slow to start.. obvious problem. Don't want to bother auto store with more battery tests, talk to mechanics at Jiffy lube and listen to car.. Diagnosis: - No normal signs of Alternator issues - Starter is turning, probably not the issue, could be though since alternator seems not to be source - Fuel pump likely culprit (but ford put them inside the gas tank, so that's a pain in the ass and unrealistic to fix) Go back to get battery tested, it's completely dead. Considering new option.. 4. Replaced starter. When starting first time, it sounds like the engine has a better grasp and run on itself, though it's still slow to start. Take it back to Auto store, run test, battery dead. That's only 6 days with the new battery. It's now believed that there's likely an electrical issue that's causing the battery to drain. CURRENT DAY.. Through a post on this thread I've determined it's possible to service your own fuel pump, but that the electrical issue may just be the wires feeding into the fuel pump, causing it to slow possibly from corrosion or a blockage of some sort. Learned that you can take out the seats, but it's a sweaty job in TX. 5. Fuel Pump inspection.. HOW TO GET THERE.. a. take out floor in back b. take out smaller rear passenger-side seat first (will need deep socket wrenches and some legit strength, some of those nuts are tight), THEN driver-side rear seat. c. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS TO SEATS. d. lift carpet and use regular phillips screw head to open floor to access fuel pump electrical connections.. .. Resuming in the afternoon. I seriously lack in electrical knowledge, but I grew up around people who understood it so I feel confident I can atleast recognize if there's a legit burn or corrosion.
  3. Had to be done since the alternator (motorcraft GL928) with internal voltage regulator failed. No battery light was displayed yet it was not charging the battery or providing sufficient charge. This video will provide you with the information to perform this replacement. Not really as hard as it seems.
  4. Received the motorcraft alternator today. Friday I install it. Video of R/R will be post once finished. This is a review of the new alternator.
  5. Hi Guys, first post here.. So I purchased a 2011 Ford Edge roughly 2 years ago. It was great until about 2 or 3 months ago. One day I came out to the car and the battery was dead. I jumped it and it was fine for a while. Then about 2 months later, it started saying "Low Battery" on the clock/radio and was starting a little rougher. Within 2 days, it was saying "Battery Saver" and then eventually just didn't start. I got out of the car, walked to the front and heard a LOUD rattling, like a rattlesnake inside the car. All the "HI PWR" black fuses were rattling so hard that they were vibrating everything. I quickly disconnected the fuse box because I was worried that an airbag was going to deploy or something. I had a brand new battery in the garage that I had purchased 2 weeks prior (by mistake for my boat - needed a deep cycle). COOL, what are the odds!?! So I put the new battery in, everything's perfect. Within 3-4 weeks it starts saying "LOW BATTERY" again on the clock. Within 1 day it was dead and refused to start again (This time it was saying "Check charging system"). *** By the way, I've also been having the stupid DOOR AJAR problem for about 6 months now *** So I called FORD service and explain the situation and give them my info. She tells me that my vehicle is still under warranty and even if it wasn't, that I had purchased the "best extended warranty that they offer". I bring the car in, explain everything, have to sign to agree that I will pay the $110 diagnosing fee, regardless of what they find. I get a call back within a few hours saying that my battery is bad (no $*, why do you think I brought it in?). It is a 1 month old battery that was brand new when put in the vehicle. Then he proceeds to tell me that the only way to properly diagnose it is to purchase the $180 Motorcraft battery, have them put it in, and then re-diagnose it. He tells me "This battery from Wal-Mart is a low quality battery and we can only properly diagnose it with a brand new high quality battery from Motorcraft". (I'm not sure why they'd assume that there's something wrong with a brand new battery and a prior 3 year old battery just dying instantly and not something electrical). He also informed me that I am completely out of warranty and the only thing the extended warranty covers is lubricated parts in the powertrain. (awesome). So it's going to be: $109.95 for diagnosis $180 for battery $479 for door latch replacement for Door Ajar (haha, F you buddy). This is a safety hazard to begin with. The doors won't lock when driving. Sounds like something a recall should take care of. I'm not really sure what my avenue should be. it's obvious that it's either something electrical or the alternator. A healthy battery shouldn't die in a month in a 3-4 year old vehicle. I'm not sure why they can't test my car with a battery that they have in the shop. I wonder if I bring my dead Motorcraft battery and drop it on his desk if he can test that "high quality battery" and see why it failed... I feel like my only avenue at this point is to either pay a bunch of money for them to do exactly what I just did (replace the battery), or to take it to a shop that will actually try to figure out what's wrong instead of blame it on a new battery. Thoughts?